Please help OC: q6600 and gigabyte GA-P31-S3G (F5 bios)

I recently bought a Gigabyte GA-P31-S3G motherboard, that came with their F5 bios, an Intel q6600 processor (stepping:B, revision:G0), as well as OCZ platinum 4gb(2x2) DDR2 1066 of RAM. I had a nvidia 8600gt videocard.

My question is: I have heard all over the formus I have come across that this processor which is stock @ 2.4Ghz can easily run @ 3.0ghz on stock cooling, with very little effort in the bios.

I have had no luck at all. I have tried the Gigabyte program called "EasyTune6" with bad results (system hang).

I am kind of new to this so any specific information would greatly be appreciated. One of the reasons I brought this board and CPU was because of the ease of OC.....but I have yet to see it.

Please Help....thanks in advance for reading this!!

Al J....Milwaukee, WI

My system:
Q6600 2.4ghz @1066 (stock)
Gigabyte GA-P31-S3G (F5 bios)
nvidia 8600GT video
Vizio 42" LCD
OCZ platinum PC8500 DDR2 1066 RAM (4GB(2x2gb))
2 x 250GB WD SATA 3.0 HDs
1 x 500 GB WD SATA3.0 HD
16x dvd burner with lightscribe
550 watt power supply
Audigy 2 ZS Platinum Sound connected optically to Pioneer 6.1 digital surround receiver
Hauppauge 250MCE tv Tuner
Vista Home Premium
53 answers Last reply
More about please q6600 gigabyte bios
  1. PS.....I am using Vista HP 32 bit.....is it unusual for it to be able to see all 4GB of RAM?....I was told and have seen that it should only read approx. 3.5gb.... not to complain at all I am thrilled that all 4 are seen by the OS.
  2. EasyTune6? Is that a program you are using to try and overclock your system??
  3. I was trying to did solely in the Bios but after having no luck with that ....I "tried" Easytune6 but would much rather do it by the way of the Bios
  4. If you are trying to use EasyTune6 to OC your computer then you are going about this all wrong. You should be changing the FSB to overclock your computer in the system bios. Increase the FSB by a little bit every time and then run a stress test program (prime95 or orthos) to test for system instability. I would HIGHLY recommend reading an overclocking guide before you start to overclock your system.

    If EasyTune6 isn't a program you are trying to use to OC your system and is another program all together then please disregard the above ;)
  5. Can you recommend a good Overclocking guide?
  6. Ok defenatally stick to OCing in the bios. If you can't reach 3.0GHz flat out then increase the FSB slowly, testing for stability everytime. Once your system becomes unstable, start increasing voltages, lowering timings etc. to achieve stability.

    Note that every processor is different. Yours might not be able to make it to 3.0 GHz just cause some other peoples could.
  7. I did try to up the FSB but didn't get very far....I think I got up to 2.7ghz before system hang......it pushed my ram from 1066 to 1333...not sure if that was good or bad
  8. I had talked with Gigabyte tech support and they told me of people having very good sucess with the same PCU.....air to 3.2 Ghz stable, 4.0ghz+ on water
  9. yea it sounds like the ram is going to be the limiting factor there, sense its only rated for 1066. Set the ram divider to 1:1 and then overclock the system. After you have the processor at the desired speed then you can go and play with timings and dividers on the ram.

    As for a good overclocking guide i believe we have some in depth ones here on toms forums, just to to the overclocking section :D
  10. I will try that......thank you for your help!!!
  11. My pleasure /bow ;)

    If you have any other questions or concerns about overclock just let me (or anyone else on toms) know
  12. ^just dont expect good grammar
  13. 1. In Advanced BIOS Features Temporarily set C1E and EIST to Disable. After you see the OC you can enable C1E again.
    2. In MIT set the PCIe to 100.
    3. In MIT set Performance Enhance to standard.
    4. In MIT set CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) to 333.
    5. in MIT set Memory Frequency (Mhz) to 2.4. This is a mild RAM under clock to 800, you can increase the speed later.
    6. In MIT set DDR2 OverVoltage Control to +0.3 that will give you the 2.1V that that I believe is the RAM spec.
    Leave all other settings on auto and boot.

    Immediately after the successful boot check temps with Real Temp. You probably should get a good aftermarket heatsink to keep CPU temps down.

    If you want to test load temps then use Prime95 Use small FFTs.

    If your temps climb to 70C then shut down prime95 and get a better cooler.

    Technically you should check idle and load temps before you OC to be sure that there are no HS mounting issues.

    You say you have a 550W power supply, but you didn't give the model. What is it?
  14. Zorg: You are awesome!! I will try this and get back to you to let you know how it went!!...I will also check the make of my power supply and post it.
  15. Let me know if you have any problems.

    Watch the temps.
  16. err no offence kyeana but do u have any idea of what you're talking about?? his RAM is not running at 1333 MHz! that would be his QDR! QDR/2=RAM freq. therefore his RAM should have been running at 533MHz stock (if he set synchronously) and now a lowly 667! 667 MHz on RAM quoted at 1066 is easy! both of you need to read up alot about FSB/QDR/RAM freqs.
  17. ok, FSB x 2 = RAM freq. (dual pumping) FSB x 4 = QDR (quad pumping)

    Therefore, QDR/4=FSB.

    At stock, FSB = 266, RAM= 533, QDR = 1066.

    Now, to get the CPU speed, you multiply the FSB by the CPU's internal "multiplier", which is maximum of 9 on a Q6600 (233 x 9 = 2400 or 2.4GHz)

    Now, my recommendation for overclocking is for him to drop his multiplier to 6 and 400FSB to start, which should still be stable, as its still only 2.4GHz. Then, slowly bring the FSB up, dropping the multiplier if necessary (because if he left FSB at 400MHz and just upped his multiplier, he would get jumps of 400MHz each time! :O

    thats all i got atm.
  18. V3NOM said:
    both of you need to read up alot about FSB/QDR/RAM freqs.
    I hope you weren't referring to me.
  19. LOL no, i seen you in a few other posts mate u no wat ur talking bout :)

    still, you could have picked up on kyeana's mistakes seeing as how u saw and posted on this thread before me...
  20. Power supply info:

    Power supply = Sunbeam 580watt ATX
    model # = PSU-BKS580-US
    newegg item # = N82E16817709011
    purchased it 10/17/06

    Zorg: thanks again!!!

    V3NOM: thanks for the tips!! they were very informative...Although I don't think it is up to Zorg to point out everybodys mistakes.....his info was great and that is truly what counts.

    I wil post detailed results of my OC when complete.

    Thank you all for your help!
  21. V3NOM said:
    LOL no, i seen you in a few other posts mate u no wat ur talking bout :)

    still, you could have picked up on kyeana's mistakes seeing as how u saw and posted on this thread before me...
    It gets tiring, I didn't read the posts closely. I just saw that alfie414 didn't get the info he was looking for and posted.

    By the way the Q6600 will OC to 3G very easily there is no reason to go up in steps. Also with a lower FSB on the initial OC you rule out the northbridge and RAM as possible causes of a crash.

    After you get the stable OC then you can move the FSB to 400 with a CPU multi 8 @ 3.2G and either Keep the RAM at 800 1:1 or go to 1066. I think at those speeds I would stay at 800 to reduce the RAM and northbridge temps, because the jump to 1066 will yield little, if any, real world performance gain. It will show up in RAM benches, but it won't make much difference.
  22. alfie414 said:
    Power supply info:

    Power supply = Sunbeam 580watt ATX
    model # = PSU-BKS580-US
    newegg item # = N82E16817709011
    purchased it 10/17/06


    OOPS, I was looking at the wrong PSU yours has 12V @25A. It's still a junk PSU and I recommend changing it ASAP.
  23. Here are some excellent prices on some excellent PSUs. Let me know if they are too much and I will look for cheaper options, but you will only save maybe $20-$25 and you will get a far worse PSU.

    CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W
    Overkill, but a really good deal on an excellent PSU
    $99.99 after $20.00 Mail-In Rebate

    CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W
    Excellent PSU at an excellent price.
    $79.99 after $30.00 Mail-In Rebate

    PC Power & Cooling S61EPS 610W
    My preference, I have a soft spot for the PC P&C line, but any of the three are top flight PSUs.
    $89.99 after $20.00 Mail-In Rebate

    If you want any of these PSUs, then act quickly, because Newegg sales go away rapidly.
  24. I also had a hang about 2 hours into Prime95 after OC to 3.0ghz at 800.

    Here are results of temps:

    w/o OC idle: min=26,25,22,28C
    w/o OC idle: max=33,33,32,35C
    w/o OC load: min=26,25,22,28C
    w/o OC load: max=54,52,51,54C

    with OC idle: min=29,26,28,31C
    with OC idle: max=37,37,40,40C
    with OC load: min=29,26,28,31C
    with OC load: max=52,53,53,54C

    when I discovered the system was hung...(test checked at startup, 15min, 30min, 1hr, 2hr(found hung), 4hr(didn't make to 4hrs)...the bios CPU temp was 41C. I also then disabled smartfan to have fan at max at all times.

    Results from Prime95 (version 25.6):

    [Sun Jul 27 15:05:24 2008]
    Self-test 8K passed!
    Self-test 8K passed!
    Self-test 8K passed!
    Self-test 8K passed!
    [Sun Jul 27 15:20:33 2008]
    Self-test 10K passed!
    Self-test 10K passed!
    Self-test 10K passed!
    Self-test 10K passed!
    [Sun Jul 27 15:35:58 2008]
    Self-test 12K passed!
    Self-test 12K passed!
    Self-test 12K passed!
    Self-test 12K passed!
    [Sun Jul 27 16:05:57 2008]
    FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
    Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.

    I couldn't find the file stress.txt even with a system search.

    Could the Power supply issues you mentioned be the reason for hang or should I reduce something in the Bios settings?

    Thanks for all your help!

    Al Jelinek
    Milwaukee, WI
  25. I tried, hoping this was a software hang, disabling most things in msconfig startup, tried then 3 times to rerun Prime95 received error in "worker thread #1" alomost immediately during the 8k test. then followed shortly after by the Blue Screen of Death.

    I reset the Bios back to original until I knew what was happening, so I didn't fry everything. I am also rerunning the Prime95 test to make sure nothing is different from the first w/o OC tests I had run....everything seems okay so far.

    A little setback, but it is(was) awesome to get this thing running in windows at 3ghz.

    I feel confident that this issue can be resolved.

    Thanks!!!

    Al Jelinek
    Milwaukee, WI
  26. Also I will be ordering a new Power supply (thanks Zorg for the Info).....can anyone suggest a good CPU fan and heatsink.....Even though my temps stayed down around the same as preOC.....I would still like to order a new fan when I order the PSU.
  27. Just to see if I am figuring this stuff out.....

    Would my next step be dropping "CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) to 333"
    down from 333 little by little and test (while watching temps) until I find a stable speed or is there other things I may do to stay at a stable 3.0ghz?
  28. Your OC load temps are good you don't need a new fan.

    First try setting the RAM multiplier to 2 in the BIOS that will give you a 1:1 multiplier RAM at 667.

    Are you running small FFTs? That should use very little RAM anyway, but give the 1:1 a shot.

    I have heard that the G31 doesn't OC as well as the P35, but it should still reach 3G.
  29. With C1E and EIST disabled, run Real Temp and post the VID.

    Which PSU are you getting?
  30. Zorg said:
    It gets tiring, I didn't read the posts closely. I just saw that alfie414 didn't get the info he was looking for and posted.

    By the way the Q6600 will OC to 3G very easily there is no reason to go up in steps. Also with a lower FSB on the initial OC you rule out the northbridge and RAM as possible causes of a crash.

    After you get the stable OC then you can move the FSB to 400 with a CPU multi 8 @ 3.2G and either Keep the RAM at 800 1:1 or go to 1066. I think at those speeds I would stay at 800 to reduce the RAM and northbridge temps, because the jump to 1066 will yield little, if any, real world performance gain. It will show up in RAM benches, but it won't make much difference.


    yeah i'm not blaming you or anything im just saying this is like a fundamental basic principal of overclocking and obviously both of them didnt know it....

    Also, it depends on the type of Q6600 you get!! retail versions have overall higher VIDS and some of them (also depends on mobo of course) require a voltage increase to get to 3GHz! Where OEM versions with a low VID can easily get to 3.2GHz with no voltage change! just ask lupiron he's an expert :kaola:

    Ruling out RAM as a problem in the overclock with an FSB of 400??? anything but $40 will easily get 800MHz! especially cos he has the 1066MHz RAM (which is essentially really good 800MHz that has been OC'd) although you're probly right that his mobo might be a limiting factor if he just chucked it to 400MHz straight away..
  31. Well not to question lupiron's expertcicity, but I have a pre-OEM retail Q6600 G0 with a VID of 1.3V, which I believe he calls high, but I could be wrong. I have it at 3.2G with all voltages on auto, Prime95 stable for 3 hours, which is long enough for me. I don't feel the need to cook the CPU for 12 hours although I would bet the price of a new one that it would be stable with no problem. Here are some screen shots for verification. Note the voltages, By all means, take C1E enabled, Vdrop and Vdroop into consideration.



  32. lol yes, 1.3 is fairly high i think, but i might be wrong as the "good" VID's are different from the 45nm's to the 65nm's and i cant remember em LOL
  33. yes C1 and EIST are/were disabled....
    VID of 1.3250
    have been testing with Prime95 small FFTs.
    I have a retail version of q6600
    I wish at this point I would have gotten the P35 :(
    Haven't yet decided on PSU but will probably go with your recommendation.

    results from newest settings:
    temps remain low
    received failure almost immediately after starting Prime95.
    I will try to post screenshots....new to forums....not sure how/failed to show image...sorry
  34. If you are going to get one of those three PSUs I wouldn't delay, those sale prices will disappear at any time. I would also change out the PSU ASAP. It's not likely that it is the cause of the OC failure, but bad/dirty voltage could be an aggravating factor.

    Your VID of 1.325 is on the high side. My guess is that your CPU may not be getting enough voltage.

    Leave the settings at 333 FSB, RAM at 2 (1:1) 667 until you get it sorted out.

    First try setting the PCIe clock to 101-104 and see if that helps, it probably won't but its worth a try.

    If you have "Load Line Calibration" disable it and try again.

    If that doesn't help, set the CPU voltage to the next step up, I believe it is 1.13375. Watch your temps as they will increase. If that doesn't work, go up more steps one at a time, stay below 1.5V, and continue to watch the temps as they will increase dramatically. You should not have to go up more than on or two steps. Keep Prime95 core temps below 70 max.

    Run CPU-Z and post screen shots of each tab.

    To capture and post a screen shot download Capture, capture the active window, and use TinyPic to host it for you.

    Crashes won't damage your hardware as long as you keep the voltage and temp in check, although it might corrupt the OS and require a reinstall.
  35. Okay tried PCIe clock @ 101, 102, 103, 104 all BSOD immediately after starting Prime95

    Tried upping the CPU volt(with PCIe clock @ 100): the closest one to 1.13375 was 1.13125 so i started there...each time I selected a new setting and rebooted from bios....the bios would go back to default.....after a while of getting the same results I just gave up on that.

    What I did next was:

    1) advanced bios features - C1E and EIST to disable
    2) MIT - PCIe to 100
    3) MIT - Performance Enhance to standard
    4) MIT - CPU host freqency to 333
    5) MIT - Memory Frequency to 2.0
    6) MIT - System Volt Control to auto
    7) disabled smart fan control to keep fan on maximum
    8) ran Prime95 (small FFTs) it was doing well but the temps got to 69c before the 10k tests(within seconds of starting prime95) and climbing so I stopped.

    Bios - PC Health Status readings:
    Vcore - 1.396v
    DDR18v - 2.112v
    +3.3v - 3.360v
    +12v - 12.112v
    CPU temp - 40C
    CPU fan - 2096 RPM
    System fan - 1819 RPM

    CPU-z tabs:

    CPU tab:


    Cache tab


    Mainboard tab


    Memory tab


    SPD tab


    About tab


    RealTemp


    Real Temp Setting tab


    Also...while typing up this reply, and doing the screen shots I have left the system with settings I listed above.The temps listed on Realtemp screenshots reflect that but when I test under load with Prime95 it seems to work at first but before it gets to the 10k tests the temps reach 69c and climbing so I stop the test.

    prime95 running and realtemp screen capture:
  36. I'm not understaning something. The settings that you used last that were stable should have been the ones I told you to use, and you used, earlier.

    Also you said earlier that you had "with OC load: max=52,53,53,54C" at 3G so why the large temp difference?

    In order to use the temps Prime95 needs to run about 10-15 minutes to stabilize.

    Are you using the stock cooler?
  37. My guess as to the huge temp difference is...instead of changing the DDr2 overvolt to +0.3 under MIT..within the "system volt control" settings....I set the main "System volt control" to "auto" where as in order to set the ddr2 overvolt I must set the "System Volt Control" to manual....

    Other than that setting I have followed your instructions to the letter.....I am using the stock cooler and was considering after todays messing around....I have plenty of time these days as I just had surgery on my right hip a six weeks ago and have been unable to leave my house(I am on a 2nd floor) with the exception of doctor appointments and therapy....anyways...

    I was considering but wanted to ask you if I should keep these settings and get a new CPU cooler then try the Prime95 again but as you can see in the Prime95/realtemp logs on the screenshot...It only took a minute or two to get from the minimum temps at test start to the point where temps reached 69c and I stopped the tests.......System runs great like it is now(checking email, internet browsing, idle).....but if I Prime95 it or I am sure if I try some serious gaming or workload that the CPU temp will quickly rise to +70c.
  38. Quote:
    err no offence kyeana but do u have any idea of what you're talking about?? his RAM is not running at 1333 MHz! that would be his QDR! QDR/2=RAM freq. therefore his RAM should have been running at 533MHz stock (if he set synchronously) and now a lowly 667! 667 MHz on RAM quoted at 1066 is easy! both of you need to read up alot about FSB/QDR/RAM freqs.


    Quote:
    I did try to up the FSB but didn't get very far....I think I got up to 2.7ghz before system hang......it pushed my ram from 1066 to 1333...not sure if that was good or bad


    Im sorry i didn't realize he was posting his QDR there, i just assumed he didn't have the divider set to 1:1 and then when he started overclocking it pushed the ram farther then it could go and vula, system instability.
  39. alfie414 said:
    My guess as to the huge temp difference is...instead of changing the DDr2 overvolt to +0.3 under MIT..within the "system volt control" settings....I set the main "System volt control" to "auto" where as in order to set the ddr2 overvolt I must set the "System Volt Control" to manual....

    Other than that setting I have followed your instructions to the letter.....I am using the stock cooler and was considering after todays messing around....I have plenty of time these days as I just had surgery on my right hip a six weeks ago and have been unable to leave my house(I am on a 2nd floor) with the exception of doctor appointments and therapy....anyways...

    I was considering but wanted to ask you if I should keep these settings and get a new CPU cooler then try the Prime95 again but as you can see in the Prime95/realtemp logs on the screenshot...It only took a minute or two to get from the minimum temps at test start to the point where temps reached 69c and I stopped the tests.......System runs great like it is now(checking email, internet browsing, idle).....but if I Prime95 it or I am sure if I try some serious gaming or workload that the CPU temp will quickly rise to +70c.
    Ouch! That sounds painful.

    In short, yes.

    The master voltage setting of manual doesn't change any voltage settings it just allows you to change each independently from auto to a specified setting. So the only difference, from the earlier unstable settings, is the lower RAM voltage, which makes no sense. I think we should consider your earlier lower temps an anomaly. I would definitely get an aftermarket cooler with a back plate, there are several good ones. Be careful with clearances on that micro ATX mobo, because I think components are packed on there, due to the smaller size. If it is stable except the high temps then a better cooler will solve your problems. After you get it stable then you can either raise the RAM speed or tighten the RAM timings, either way won't make much real world performance difference. Ultimately you will want to try and set the FSB to 400, CPU multi to 8, and RAM to 1:1 800 with the timings in the SPD of CPUZ, or maybe a little tighter.
  40. One quick question should I try the:
    "Ultimately you will want to try and set the FSB to 400, CPU multi to 8, and RAM to 1:1 800 with the timings in the SPD of CPUZ, or maybe a little tighter. "

    now or after I get and install the new PSU and cpu fan?
  41. Wait until you get a new PSU and HS and run Prime95 for at least a few hours. Maybe even use it for a week or two, then try 3.2G. It's not really a huge difference, but why not run it if you can get it stable and keep it cool enough. Do some research on heatsinks and get a good one. There are a lot of reviews out there. Try to read the most recent ones, of course.
  42. thank you....like I had mentioned I am going with the PSU that you recommended as well as I have decided to go with a watercooled CPU cooler....going through the reviews as soon as I decide on which one to go with I definately plan to attempt the 3.2G or above. I will let you know my results as soon as possible.

    Again I can't thank you enough for getting me to this point and beyond. I have learned a lot!!!! there is more to this than I thought at the beginning, but I needed a new hobby anyway and this stuff is very interesting!!

    I hope to reach your OCing ability one day!!
  43. You don't need water cooling to reach 3.2G. Water is a pain in the butt to deal with and if you get a cheap one and it leaks you're screwed. I would stick with a good air cooler that will fit, you will be happy you did.
  44. ^+1 to that, top end air coolers beat 80-85% of low end to mid range water coolers :)
  45. Thank you both for putting the watercooling idea in better perspective for me......Any air coolers you would recommend? One of the problems I was having when trying to decide on a new aircooler is the lack of stats of on each one and exactly what they will fit....some fit certain AMDs some fit on socket design or another some are rated only to certain temps....but so far I have found none that say "this one rules....buy it" in a sense...so watercooling and the idea that I would want to try to push my CPU to the +4.0Ghz got a huge boost.
  46. FYI.....I was looking at the Gigabyte watercooling system listed on newegg.com (since my board is gigabyte) after reading the reviews it seemed a safe enough bet.......but at this point I trust your opinion on this matter much much more than a few random customers of newegg.
  47. I ended up going with these for my power and cooling needs:

    PC Power & Cooling S61EPS 610W Continuous @ 40°C EPS12V Power Supply
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703005

    and

    ZALMAN 9500A 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118223
  48. Quote:
    Im sorry i didn't realize he was posting his QDR there, i just assumed he didn't have the divider set to 1:1 and then when he started overclocking it pushed the ram farther then it could go and vula, system instability.


    What no reply to my obvious flame bait / attempt to make me fell better.....o well :sarcastic:

    Anyways the zalman is a nice cooler, i was using one for a while and it kept everything nice and cool. Do you already own thermal paste or did you purchase any thermal paste to go with the heatsink? (i was looking at it on new egg and it didn't look like it came with thermal compound but i totally could have just missed it, didn't look all that hard). If you end up needing thermal paste to go with the heatsink i would recommend arctic silver 5 (yes call me a fan boy, but the stuff works). I would also suggest getting arctic cleaner just cause its cheap and makes cleaning off any paste thats currently there a breeze.

    Good luck
  49. actually according to the pictures on newegg it did come with thermal paste but I opted for the arctic silver 5 and also bought the arctic cleaner....both had good reviews.....but it is definately refreshing to hear from someone that has used what i purchased.....i can't waitfor UPS to get here...I was so anxious to start the I ordered everything 2nd day air as well as rush delivery....so I hope I get it on thursday but friday would probably be more realistic.

    Also I had air conditioning on today at a very chilly setting.....I am not very "green" but I do try.....I must make up for the seven months I have been unable to drive my car :) anyway....I tried again today with Real Temp running ran Prime95 and wouldn't you know it the darn thing ran for 3.5 hours( when I stopped it) without an error...max temp of 68c but that was only for a second the average max temp was around 65c.....amazing what room temperature and conditions can do to an overclocked PC without good cooling. Today 66F very dry....yesterday 76-77 dew point in the 60s and humidity in the 40-60s...

    Thanks again your your tips and comments through this thing!!
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