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My FIRST Build, Need Advice

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January 25, 2008 6:03:18 PM

PSU: Rosewill ATX V2.2 500W Power Supply = $49.99
Link: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16817182076
1. Should I have two 12V rails or just one?
2. Are there enough amps on the rails?
3. Are all the pin connectors compatible with all of my parts



Motherboard: GIGABYTE P35 LGA 775 Intel ATX Intel Motherboard = $89.99
Link: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16813128059
1. Please have a look at this review that said the motherboard would not work with my PSU= http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16817182076&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=100&SelectedRating=1&PurchaseMark=&VideoOnlyMark=False
2. The motherboard is a compatiblility nightmare for me (FSB,PCI vs AGP, DDR2,3,1, CPU stuff), could you guys please help me out with this and make sure it fits with the rest of the hardware.



Graphics Card: EVGA GeForce 8800GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 Video Card = $249.99
Link: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16814130318
1. Will this run Crysis on High settings with medium resolution?


Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 250GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive = $65.99
Link: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16822148261
1. I'm not quite sure what RAID is, but should I have it? I don't use alot of space on my Hard Drives.
2. Should I upgrade to 16MB Cache?
3. Once again, is it compatible with everything.



Memory: G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory = $46.99
Link: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16820231098


CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 Conroe 2.66GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor = $189.99
Link: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16819115029


CPU Heatsink: Use one that comes with CPU box.


Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster SB0570 Audigy SE 7.1 Channels 24-bit 96KHz PCI Interface Sound Card = $29.99
Link: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16829102002
1. Is it worth it to even have this sound card or should I just use onboard sound?


Case: Use my current ATX case


Optical Drives: Use my current drives


OS: Use previous CD for XP that is on current computer. 32bit XP
1. Can I do this? I do still have the CD and the Key...
2. When I get enough money I will but Vista for DirectX 10. However, I heard that DirectX 10 doesn't really make that much of a difference at this point. True?



Cables/etc: Do i need to order any special connector cables? What about thermal compound, can I just use the heatsink that comes with the CPU, I DO NOT want to overclock at all. Do I need cables to connect optical drives/hard drives? Or does it come with them?


Case Fans: Use current ones.


Monitor: Use current monitor. Gateway 18inch FPD1810 LCD Flat Screen ABOUT 5 YEARS OLD. However, it seems to run just fine. Brightness might be a bit decreased. Any thoughts on this monitor. Do I NEED to upgrade?


Mouse, Keyboard, Speakers: Use current.


Alright, Let me know if I'm missing anything. Total Price ~ $750.00 USD

Thanks in advance, I can use all the advice I can get!

Please let me know if there are any compatibility issues or bottlenecks/major problems!
This is my first build, and I am not sure if my PSU(amps and stuff), motherboard, and GPU, and CPU, are compatible/sufficient.
I'm especially worried about my PSU, if it has enough rails/amps/watts. I don't know that much about the PSU.

I want to use the computer for gaming on medium resolutions but higher settings. I DO NOT overclock at all. I do not want to upgrade to SLi anytime soon.

More about : build advice

January 25, 2008 10:05:13 PM

I've used that case for a couple of builds for grandkids for inexpensive builds with onboard video and he PSU worked, but that's obviously not what your building. You'd better off getting something like the Antec Sonata III with a good PSU or get a case without a PSU, e.g., you can find the Cool Master for as low as $30 with rebate. Then get a TierII PSU in the 500w - 600w range
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10...

That's a good mobo but if you haven't done so, check out the ASUS P5K and P5K E as well, more features than the DS3L if you need them. If it fits your budget, I'd go with the E8400 that is about $30 more than the E6750. Unless you have really high quality speakers or running the card through a receiver, the onboard sound card is fine. If you need a sound card, especially for high quality audio/video, check this card out, has ahd very good reviews and I have a higher end HT Omega with the same chipset that is really good
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E1682...
Related resources
January 25, 2008 10:58:23 PM

Would second the Crucial
January 26, 2008 2:29:19 AM

g-paw said:
Would second the Crucial



This is a bit too pricey for me. Why is the current RAM I have bad?

And by the way, I do NOT plan on Overclocking at all.


Also, so basically everyone thinks the PSU is bad. I need to get at least a tier 2 right?
How much should I spend on one for this current build if I plan no upgrades later on?

Thanks
January 26, 2008 2:49:26 AM

There are stability issues with some Rosewill PSU's, not to mention that some of them are a 911 call waiting to happen. Go with one I linked, same price after MIR and google checkout. It's alot better PSU.There is probably nothing wrong with ram you've chosen, here's some that's cheaper and just as good;
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


a b V Motherboard
January 26, 2008 2:56:38 AM

I second chuckm's PSU. Or, maybe, spend $8 more and get the 550VX instead of the 450VX. You don't expect any upgrades now, but you never know, and the 550 will give you more room for them.
http://www.buy.com/retail/searchresults.asp?search_store=1&querytype=comp&qu=550vx&loc=101&qxt=comp&display=col&dclksa=1

The rest is fine IMO. Crucial overclocks better than most everything, but you don't need to care about that. If you reallyt have to save money as much as possible go through the user reviews of the GA-P35-DS3L at newegg, write down which RAM everybody uses, then get whatever is on sale. This way you know it will work.

18" LCD??? Ouch! What does it do, 1440x900 or not even that? The 8800GT can easily support 1680x1050, i.e. a 20" or 22" widescreen. Upgrade if you can, it will be worth it. About $250 buys you something good.
a b V Motherboard
January 26, 2008 2:58:53 AM

Wow, $31 for 2GB, fantastic find chuckm. BTW, I found a newegg reviewer for that RAM who uses it with the DS3L, so it's guaranteed to work.
January 26, 2008 7:00:29 AM




If you use promocode EMCABCCAH before 1/28/08, you can have this memory:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145034
for $29. Free Shipping too.

Specs:
CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail
And sweet, sweet 4-4-4-12 timing is icing on the cake!

Best of all, it is listed on the Gigabyte web site as approved memory for the GA-P35-DS3L motherboard.
http://www.gigabyte-usa.com/Products/Motherboard/Products_Overview.aspx?ProductID=2583
http://www.gigabyte-usa.com/FileList/MemorySupport/motherboard_memory_ga-p35-ds3l_2.0.pdf

January 26, 2008 4:24:35 PM

Wow! great stuff guys thanks for the advice!

Also, is there a possibility that my DVD drives will not be compatible somehow? I plan on using my current ones.

CDRW LTON|52X32X52 SOHR-5238S BLK R
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16827106942

And

DVD|LITE ON 16X SOHD-167T BLCK RTL
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827131119

Something about IDE or SATA er something...

AND

What about this PSU, it is my current PSU and I would like to keep on using it if possible. Would it be compatible with my setup? Would it supply enough power to everything?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817103909
a b V Motherboard
January 26, 2008 9:04:54 PM

The GA-P35-DS3L has an IDE header allowing two IDE devices, so it should work. I don't know if it's a good idea to put two burners on the same IDE header though. Your PSu is at the limit too. I'd suggest using one burner only.

That PSU at 28A is VERY close to the minimum recommended for system with an 8800GT (26A). It should be OK, with an E6750 and keeping fans/disks/USB devices/PCi cards at a minimum. I wouldn't try overclocking because that stresses the PSu more. Keep in mind that PSus lose some juice overtime too. I'd say use this PSU but plan to replace it later this year.

Edit: www.buy.com sells a Corsair 550VX PSU for $68 with free shipping. If that fits in your budget buy it.
a b V Motherboard
January 26, 2008 11:24:04 PM

I recommend getting a new PSU - not only does your old one barely meet your requirements at posted power, but PSU output just normally declines over time. I don't know how old yours is, but chances are its power output now is lower than when you purchased it. However Antec is an excellent brand and for that same $50AR you can purchase and Antec Earthwatts 500w PSU with 34 amps on the 12v rail that is energy efficient (80+) and relatively quiet.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Or you might consider another from this recommended list of good PSUs under $150 (note that the Antec Earthwatts 500 is on the list - and you get it for a fraction of the $150)

http://www.jonnyguru.com//forums/showthread.php?t=1460

I second looking at the new E8400 CPU; you might want to look at this related thread:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/247783-28-e8400-prepa...

I agree with chuckm and fueled on suggestions for RAM and hard drive.

As to putting both your optical drives on one IDE header, this might slow them down when using both at the same time, although do you ever copy from the DVD to CDRW or otherwise use them both at same time? I would give it a try, and if it you find it too slow, then replace the DVD-ROM for about $20, or better yet upgrade the CDRW to DVDRW for about $35, with a SATA drive.
January 27, 2008 12:50:28 AM

Ok, I'm a bit confused.

Quote:
The GA-P35-DS3L has an IDE header allowing two IDE devices, so it should work. I don't know if it's a good idea to put two burners on the same IDE header though. Your PSu is at the limit too. I'd suggest using one burner only.


1. I looked at the picture online and I only see 1 green slot that says IDE. Can that support 2 drives or only 1?
2. I don't have 2 burners, I have 1 CD burner and 1 DVD drive that is not a burner.
3. Why is it not a good idea to have to optical drives on a computer?

Quote:
That PSU at 28A is VERY close to the minimum recommended for system with an 8800GT (26A). It should be OK, with an E6750 and keeping fans/disks/USB devices/PCi cards at a minimum. I wouldn't try overclocking because that stresses the PSu more. Keep in mind that PSus lose some juice overtime too. I'd say use this PSU but plan to replace it later this year.


1. Can this PSU even work on this mobo? What about the main connector Pin count 20 vs 20+4 or something?
2. If the PSU is compatible, would an E8400 add more stress than an 6750?
3. I do not overclock
4. I have had the PSU for 3.5 years

Quote:
As to putting both your optical drives on one IDE header, this might slow them down


1. When you say "slow them down" does that mean with regards to burning CD's? Or that it will take longer to install games and stuff?

Quote:
do you ever copy from the DVD to CDRW or otherwise use them both at same time


1. I never use them both at the same time, in fact I really don't have a large use to have 2 drives in the first place...


Also, what is the difference between a SATA drive and an IDE drive?
January 27, 2008 1:07:28 AM

you need one IDE header to which you attach an IDE cable that has 2 connectors on it, one at the end which is the "master" and one in the middle that is the "slave." Some IDE cables have twisted two wires switched on one connector and that type of IDE cable selects automatically which device is master and which is slave. If using the regular IDE cable set the jumpers on the devices such that the device on the end of the cable is set to master and the one in the middle is set to slave. If using the cable-select cable, set the jumpers on both devices to "cable-select."

Why is it not good to have two similar devices on the same cable? Well, since they share the same cable, the computer can't read/write to both at the same time. Using the same cable if trying to read from one and write to the other will mean things will take twice as long. Before SATA, mobos had several IDE headers so you could put just one device on each. Now most mobos just have one legacy IDE for people that need it.

Another thing to consider is power consumption and heat. Your 480 watt PSU will run a 400 watt load at perhaps 60% efficiency. The other 40% you are still paying for but instead of being turned into electricity it is turned into heat. Also, your case will get warmer allowing even less room for overclocking if you ever decide to do that. But mainly you are paying alot to run the system and it is turning 40% of the energy used into heat, not electricity.

A 750 watt PSU will run a 400 watt load at 80% efficiency. Less wasted power you are paying for, less excess heat that the case has to deal with. This is because the power efficiency curve of a power supply is not flat. The efficiency is highest near the halfway point of the PSUs maximum. Also a bigger PSU gives you more room to grow if you decide to add something later. And lastly, a stable PSU is one of the most important but also the most overlooked part by builders. A decent PSU is important.

SATA and IDE are two different interfaces. IDE is older, SATA is newer. The cables look different. If you are asking what the underlying difference is, SATA sends data serially (one bit at a time) while IDE sends the data several bits at a time in parallel but much slower than SATA. SATA fast and good, IDE slow and bad is the take home message.

Can't remember what else you asked :heink: 
a b V Motherboard
January 27, 2008 1:34:49 AM

I think you should get an SH-S203B SATA DVD burner for $31 or whatever, and ditch both old drives. The DVD burner can read DVDs and write CDs, so it can replace them both. Also, with DVD blanks at 20 cents each, just like CD blanks, and 6 times bigger, it's cheaper to do your backups on DVDs than CDs.
January 27, 2008 4:46:12 AM

OK, So what if I only used my current DVD Rom drive w/o the other CD burner? Would that be OK?

I can use my laptop for burning purposes...


Also, could someone please comment on the main connector for my PSU? Will my current PSU (the Antec) work with my motherboard? the PSU is 20 Pin the motherboard is 24 pin? I think my PSU has an additional 4 pin connector...can I just combine the 20 and 4 pin connectors on my current PSU?

Thanks again
a b V Motherboard
January 27, 2008 4:15:44 PM

Chimera6586 said:
OK, So what if I only used my current DVD Rom drive w/o the other CD burner? Would that be OK?


Go ahead an install and use both. When using only one at a time, you will not see any difference. If using both at once, then you will suffer a performance hit for both - which is OK if you can tolerate it.

Note that while SATA is the new and better technology, it actually does not transmit data much faster than IDE - for of you uses you may not even notice a difference. However, the SATA controller on the mobo is designed to handle multiple channels so it will be faster than using two IDE devices on the same channel. In addition, the newer hard drives, which use SATA, are faster than the older drives, which use IDE, primarily because of new technologies such as perpendicular recording and large caches. So the newer drive will be faster, primarily because of the drive itself is faster, not because it is SATA instead of IDE.

Also the round SATA cable provide for better airflow and, when you have many devices, are a lot easier to work with than IDE.
a b V Motherboard
January 27, 2008 4:49:16 PM

Chimera6586 said:

Also, could someone please comment on the main connector for my PSU? Will my current PSU (the Antec) work with my motherboard? the PSU is 20 Pin the motherboard is 24 pin? I think my PSU has an additional 4 pin connector...can I just combine the 20 and 4 pin connectors on my current PSU?


I could not find a PSU listed on the Antec site with exactly the same name as yours. Is this your PSU?

http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=22481

If so, it has a 20-pin connector with detachable 4 pin connector - and it will work using both pieces.

Take care that you only use the correct 4 pin connector that is part of the 20 pin motherboard connector. Your PSU also has a 4 pin mobo power connector, that looks similar, and 4 pin molex connectors for the peripherals. Neither of these work. If you are not abolutely sure you have the +4 connector, either find someone who really knows or don't use it.

Nevertheless, for reasons already stated in previous posts, I recommend getting a new PSU as soon as possible.
January 27, 2008 9:40:19 PM

rockyjohn said:
I could not find a PSU listed on the Antec site with exactly the same name as yours. Is this your PSU?


I had a link a bit up on the thread, here it is.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E1681...

I'm not quite sure if it has an extra 4 pin thing for the mobo. Could you guys have a look.

I see the 20 pin connector, and I think I do see a 4 pin one as well to the left in the picture...?
a b V Motherboard
January 27, 2008 10:22:02 PM

Chimera6586 said:
This is a bit too pricey for me. Why is the current RAM I have bad?

And by the way, I do NOT plan on Overclocking at all.


Also, so basically everyone thinks the PSU is bad. I need to get at least a tier 2 right?
How much should I spend on one for this current build if I plan no upgrades later on?

Thanks


The current RAM is fine but consider this too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
a b V Motherboard
January 27, 2008 10:24:52 PM

Chimera6586 said:
..........

What about this PSU, it is my current PSU and I would like to keep on using it if possible. Would it be compatible with my setup? Would it supply enough power to everything?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817103909


I would get a new PSU either way mainly due to capacitor aging
January 27, 2008 10:31:30 PM

Shadow703793 said:
The current RAM is fine but consider this too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


Ok, in that case, what about this RAM, which is better?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145015

I just don't understand. The prices of RAM do not seem to correlate with latency...

I have no idea how to pick RAM. All I know is that I don't overclock and I want to get the cheapest RAM that will still perform nicely.


EDIT: N/M it because one is 800MHz right?
a b V Motherboard
January 27, 2008 10:43:24 PM

^Yup, 800 vs 675
January 28, 2008 3:55:02 AM

OK, I have taken some advice and switched some parts around:


CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 3.0GHz
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16819115037

Graphics Card: Nvidia EVGA 8800GT 512MB
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E1681...

Motherboard: Intel GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L LGA 775
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16813128059

RAM: Kingston HyperX 2GB DDR2 800 Model- KHX6400D2LLK2/2GR
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16820134583

PSU: Antec earthwatts 500W ATX12V
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16817371007

Hard Drive: Western Digital 250GB 7200RPM SATA 16MB Cache
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E1682...

Case: My old current case, LOGISYS Computer CS600BK Black Steel ATX Mid Tower
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811148004

DVD Drive: My old current drive, LITE-ON 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM IDE DVD-ROM Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16827131119


*I want to use for gaming on High settings, medium resolution*
*I do not overclock*

Could you guys please comment. Advice, overkill/underkill?
January 28, 2008 4:11:08 AM

Looks good
a b V Motherboard
January 28, 2008 4:30:14 AM

The Antec Earthwatts 500w is an excellent PSU and it appears on the same recommended list as the Corsair you linked to.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10...

Please post a link to the list you are looking at that shows this the Corsair VX Tier 2 and the Antec Earthwatts as tier 3. Below is a link to the list I have seen, but it lists NEITHER of these units so I would like to see your list that has both. Perhaps there is an updated list I have not seen.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10...

In any case, based on what I know about Antec PSUs and the recommendation from Johnny Guru, I see no basis for favoring the Corsair VX PSU over the Earthwatts. Perhaps Ham can state why he thinks it is better.
January 28, 2008 5:05:45 AM

Hi Rockyjohn!

They are probably both great PSUs. I did not see earthwatts listed at all on the xtreme thread and i checked the first page and the next few pages, but at 11 pages for that thread i gave up after 3 or 4. perhaps it is listed somewhere in that thread.

the jonny thread lists only PSUs that are <$150 MSRP so even though for example the PC P&C is $109 at newegg, the MSRP is above $150 so it does not appear in that thread. For that reason I use the xtreme thread more than the jonny thread.

the jonny thread lists the antec earthwatts as a recommended PSU so it must be pretty good.

i thought perhaps the antec earthwatts was another name for the antec neopower which is listed in the xtreme thread, but according to the antec web site they are two different PSUs.

Although my preference is for PC P&C Silencers, if I had to choose another brand, like you, I too believe that corsair makes better PSUs than Antec. However two things make me question this: #1 it says on jonny that seasonic builds the antec PSUs for them and seasonic is terrific, and #2 most of the complaints about corsair at newegg are that they seem to arrive DOA too often (and some note that they seem to run a bit hotter than most PSUs). Given all this I'm inclined to agree with you. The antec is cheaper, made by seasonic, listed as recommended by jonny, and it is an 80plus (80%+ efficiency from 20-100% load).

I think I read somewhere else that corsair bought pc power & cooling. I think I may have also read somewhere that seasonic has something to do with corsair PSUs as well.
January 28, 2008 3:14:05 PM

Four questions:

1. Have a look at all these reviews about my RAM, whats this all about it coming at 667MHz and having to up the voltage? http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16820134583, (I do not know how to change voltage and frequency of RAM)

2. Can my mobo support wolfdale, or am I going to have to mess with BIOS updates? (I do not know how to flash BIOS). Please check out this link and scroll down a bit to where it says the CPU's supported. E8400 is on there but on the way right it says F8a update...What does this mean? http://www.gigabyte-usa.com/Support/Motherboard/CPUSupport_Model.aspx?ProductID=2583

3. On GIGABYTES website for my mobo RAM compatability (http://www.gigabyte-usa.com/FileList/MemorySupport/motherboard_memory_ga-p35-ds3l_2.0.pdf) it has ALMOST has my same RAM model number of KHX6400D2LLK2/2GR EXCEPT the last /2GR part, the ones they have, have a different last couple numbers. Should I worry about this?

4. I would like to get my total price down a bit. Is there any way to do this here without taking a significant hit?

*Want to play on high setting medium resolution*
*I DO NOT overclock*


Thanks again
January 28, 2008 4:49:32 PM


A small chip on each RAM module, called a Serial Presence Detect (SPD) chip, stores information about the rated speed and appropriate timing settings for the module; this data is sometimes referred to collectively as a set of SPD values. The chip is read by the motherboard BIOS at boot time to assure the proper automatic configuration settings are used.

If there is a screw up at the factory or if the RAM is counterfeit, the information on the SPD chip does not correspond with what you paid for.

If I bought 800 MHz RAM and the SPD listed it as 667 MHz I would send it back.

If a chip manufacturer knows for sure your RAM is 800 but got marked as 667 in the SPD chip they can send you a program to reflash that chip with the correct information.

F8a is just a bios version number - in this case it is the version that was released on 12/6/07.

Flashing the BIOS is not hard, but if you are trying to update the BIOS to a version that E8400 works with, that means the BIOS you currently have does not work with E8400, which in turn means you will need to have another CPU installed in the motherboard to do it. So lets say you have an E2140 CPU in a drawer. Install that in the mother board, download the new BIOS and install it, turn everything off, pop out the E2140, pop in the E8400, and you are set to go.

If that is all too much to handle, you might call newegg and ask what BIOS version number their GA-P35-DS3L mother boards are shipping out with. You might want to check other sites and find one shipping the F8a BIOS. If they all are not shipping the F8a BIOS already, I bet they all will be shortly.

You asked how to flash the BIOS. It is usually done with a BIOS flashing utility provided by the motherboard manufacturer. Here is the Gigabyte page on how to flash their BIOS, and it is not hard:


http://www.gigabyte-usa.com/Support/Motherboard/HowToReflashBIOS.aspx

The RAMs are similar but not the same. Here is the comparison on newegg. The reccommended one, that ends in an N, costs more and is approved for SLI and has a suggested use of gaming and the other does not:
newegg RAM comparison of those two Kingston RAMs

This memory is on the Gigabyte approved memory list. It costs $34 at newegg ($74 with $40 rebate):
CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145034
a b V Motherboard
January 29, 2008 12:23:48 AM

1. Don't worry about the RAM QVL listings. (99.9% of the time the RAM will work with any given system as long as they are the same ie DDR2, within rated speeds,etc)
2. You can flash the BIOS through Q-Flash or DOS. How to use Q-Flash is explained in the manual. NEVER UPDATE BIOS THROUGH WINDOWS!
3. E8400 is supported out of the box aperently. See:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/forum2.php?config=tom...
read gamebro's post.
4. See below on how to OC on the P35-DS3L:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/forum2.php?config=tom...
5. The Antec PSU is fine, but I personally like the Corsair PSUs because of personal experience. I have as of yet for a Corsair to die on me and I did have an Antec die on me a while back. Wait about 2 weeks and the prices should come down a bit on the 8800GT due to the new ATi release of the 3870X2.

January 29, 2008 12:41:21 AM

Seasonic builds some of the units for Corsair to their spec. If you get any of the Corsairs at buy.com they are the best prices I've seen on them. I used to have a list of what ones were made by Seasonic, I'll try to find it.
a b V Motherboard
January 29, 2008 9:05:00 PM

^Yeah, I was looking for that list a while back. Couldn't find it on google now.
January 29, 2008 10:20:54 PM

If you're worried about RAM compatibility, crosscheck with the RAM site. That Kingston should be fine. I cross checked it earlier today.
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