Completely New System for '08!

Hello, I've recently decided to rebuild my system, one I have neglected to upgrade since 2003~04, and since I am hardware illiterate I've been reading up on different parts. I would like this PC to be focused on gaming and so, I've compiled this list. I would ask any bored forum-goers on advice on switching any parts or a stronger alternative, thanks in advance and I greatly appreciate your help! :wahoo:

The Basics:

Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - 110$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021

Thermaltake W0106RU Complies with ATX 12V 2.2 & EPS 12V version 700W Power Supply 100 - 125$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153039

ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 64 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler - 20$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185125

Western Digital Raptor X WD1500AHFD 150GB 10,000 RPM 16MB Cache Serial ATA150 Hard Drive - 175$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136011&Tpk=Raptor%2bx

EVGA 512-P3-N841-A3 GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI - 300$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130312


As for the Motherboard, RAM, and Processor I decided between two builds, one AMD and the other Intel.


AMD
Mother Board, RAM & Processor (AMD):


GIGABYTE GA-MA790FX-DQ6 AM2+/AM2 AMD 790FX ATX Ultra Durable II AMD Motherboard 230$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128070

CORSAIR XMS2 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 - 85$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145176

AMD Athlon 64 X2 6400+ Windsor 3.2GHz 2 x 1MB L2 Cache Socket AM2 125W Dual-Core Processor - 170$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103228


Total for an AMD build: 1115$ this is including the basics I mentioned above and mail-in rebates from products and excluding shipping fees + tax.


Intel
Mother Board, RAM & Processor (Intel):


GIGABYTE GA-EP35C-DS3R LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Dynamic Energy Saver Ultra Durable II Intel Motherboard - 145$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128082

Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz 2 x 4MB L2 Cache LGA 775 Quad-Core Processor - 275$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115017

CORSAIR 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) - 230$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145183

Total for an Intel Build: 1280$ this is including the basics I mentioned above and mail-in rebates and excluding shipping fees + tax.


As for the graphics card I was originally set on a -
EVGA 768-P2-N831-AR GeForce 8800GTX 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported - 400$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130072

But after reading the article on TomsHardware about the newer 8800GTS and its ability to rival the GTX and for 100$ cheaper I decided to go with the GTS. I mainly centered this build again, around gaming but also future proofing myself from having to shell out big bucks for additional upgrades anytime soon. I'm not particularly sure if the AMD or Intel build would be better for my purposes. As such, I tried to get the best parts available that weren't outrageously priced. Any advice on which build is best or if there are any parts that you would recommend over one I listed I would love to have your suggestion/advice.

Thanks again in advance!

EDITED: for clarity
50 answers Last reply
More about completely system
  1. looks good. You obviously did research

    1) Go with the Intel build. ATM Intel is beating amd and that quad core would be nice for longevity (are you overclocking)
    2) Graphics is a good choice.
    3) For the Hard drive i would say SKIP on the Raptor. Compared to newer larger drives it is old news and outdated. Many like the WD 750AAKS (or other sizes) and the Seagate 7200.11 drives (the new ones)
    4) The PSU is okay, but I would highly recommend a Corsair modular HX unit or a PC Power and Cooling unit. They are a nicer build quality.

    On another note....DO NOT get the P35C motherboard. DDR3 is a waste of total money atm. Get the regular DS3R or L and some nice 4 gigs of DDR2 ram. Another good P35 board is the Asus P5K-E. It is a great board to overclock that quad
  2. Silverion77 said:
    looks good. You obviously did research

    1) Go with the Intel build. ATM Intel is beating amd and that quad core would be nice for longevity (are you overclocking)
    2) Graphics is a good choice.
    3) For the Hard drive i would say SKIP on the Raptor. Compared to newer larger drives it is old news and outdated. Many like the WD 750AAKS (or other sizes) and the Seagate 7200.11 drives (the new ones)
    4) The PSU is okay, but I would highly recommend a Corsair modular HX unit or a PC Power and Cooling unit. They are a nicer build quality.

    On another note....DO NOT get the P35C motherboard. DDR3 is a waste of total money atm. Get the regular DS3R or L and some nice 4 gigs of DDR2 ram. Another good P35 board is the Asus P5K-E. It is a great board to overclock that quad


    Ah okay, thanks a bunch, I'll be sure to look up all the parts you mentioned, and with the extra cash from going DDR2 instead of DDR3 maybe I can replace my crappy speakers.
  3. Also forgot top mention. Another reason not to get the P35C is that many have complained that it is picky on the memory and has problems with the memory
  4. +1 on the Raptors, I have 2 in raid 0 and it is really nice for quick starts after the screen saver or startup, but the new drives aren't that much slower. I also run out of room on them and am always pushing files to a 500gig secondary. $350 would get you 1.5 Tb in raid 0 right now @7200 rpms-Just my 2 cents
  5. I'm also curious on the cooling part of my system.
    Besides the built in Antec case fans and the additional CPU cooling system I am planning on, do I need any other heatsinks for other parts of my CPU?


    As of now, my list looks like this.


    The Basics:

    Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - 110$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6811129021

    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad (Black) EPS12V 750W Power Supply 100 - 240 V UL, ULC, CE, CB, RoHS - 170$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703009


    ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 64 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler - 20$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6835185125

    Western Digital Raptor X WD1500AHFD 150GB 10,000 RPM 16MB Cache Serial ATA150 Hard Drive - 175$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] Raptor%2bx

    EVGA 512-P3-N841-A3 GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI - 300$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6814130312

    CORSAIR Dominator 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) - 160$ (2 of them)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145043


    ASUS P5K-E LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - 140$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131225


    Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz 2 x 4MB L2 Cache LGA 775 Quad-Core Processor - 275$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6819115017

    The bolded parts are areas where I swapped for better fits. (thanks Silverion77) I kept the Raptor X from WD because I generally don't see myself using more than 40-70gigs of space anyway and the 10,000 RPM seems a lot better than the 7,200 offered by other models. I'm probably wrong though.

    Please let me know what you think of my final revision and about the cooling concern. Any noticing of problems / better set ups available would also be great. Thanks again for everyone's help.

    Total : 1350$ with rebates excluding shipping and tax.
  6. Also, if I want to SLI later would it be possible with the motherboard I am aiming for? Or should I go with something like the XFX MB-N780-ISH9 LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 780i SLI Intel Motherboardhttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813141005

    I'm a bit confused with the memory standard on this product however, it says it is DDR2 800 but up to DDR1200 (with EPP 1.0), I've heard the wrong DDR ram can melt your board, so if I switched to this motherboard would I have to swap my Corsair Dominator DDR2 1066's as well?
  7. Good choices on everything, but I think you could be able to find cheaper RAM.
  8. Just because it says DDR2 1066 just means it can go that high, but can go back to 800. I have a DS3L that is 1066 stock but I have DDR2800 Crucial Ballistix ram. If you are gonna go for 4 gigs, get a nice 2x2 kit so you can save room for the future
    I like the PSU.
    For SLI, how big is the monitor. The main problem with SLI is that by the time you go to use it (6 months is about average) it is usually better to get the new single card solution. Personally i find SLI to be just a silly joke unless you have a large monitor.
    For the Cooler, the main question you have to answer first is "Are you overclocking?". If so then you might something a little better. If not then that's fine
  9. Sorry but why not raptor ??? I need 250-320 HDD 7200 RPM should be fine for video.
    Should I avoid WD ? Should I take 10000 RPM for the system ? WHIch brand please ...???
  10. I'm most likely going to try and OC (my first time ever) the quadcore to about 3.0ghz which is why I bought that CPU cooler. As for my monitor I have a 21" LCD from Viewsonic (not the best on the market but hey it works), so I think I'll pass on the SLI, since I like to play around the 1200x1000 resolution ranges anyway.

    I'll most likely switch my RAM to a 2x2 DDR2 set.
  11. dash1 said:
    Sorry but why not raptor ??? I need 250-320 HDD 7200 RPM should be fine for video.
    Should I avoid WD ? Should I take 10000 RPM for the system ? WHIch brand please ...???

    The Raptor is fine, but nowadays you are paying 3 times the price for a drive that gets slight performance increase. Before it was nice, but compared to newer larger drives, the performance is negligible. Unless you care about a 1 second faster load on a game then waste your money but otherwise get a nice larger drive.

    Yea, ocing is fun. I tried it out for my rig and now run at 3.0 (2.8 for the moment because it was stock voltage). If you can you might want to get a better cooler. The best is the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme but has a high price tag. Other good choices are the Tuniq Tower and the ZEROtherm Nirvana
  12. dash1 said:
    Sorry but why not raptor ??? I need 250-320 HDD 7200 RPM should be fine for video.
    Should I avoid WD ? Should I take 10000 RPM for the system ? WHIch brand please ...???


    Get a WD7500AAKS or a Spinpoint F1 1TB. Those are among the fastest disks available today. They are in fact faster than the 10000 RPM disks when handling huge files. For example when editing videos they are better. They also cost several times less per GB.
  13. Silverion77 said:
    The Raptor is fine, but nowadays you are paying 3 times the price for a drive that gets slight performance increase. Before it was nice, but compared to newer larger drives, the performance is negligible. Unless you care about a 1 second faster load on a game then waste your money but otherwise get a nice larger drive.

    Yea, ocing is fun. I tried it out for my rig and now run at 3.0 (2.8 for the moment because it was stock voltage). If you can you might want to get a better cooler. The best is the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme but has a high price tag. Other good choices are the Tuniq Tower and the ZEROtherm Nirvana


    True. I also like the Scythe Ninja. But, for only 3.0 GHz, I'm voting for the Arctic Cooling Frezer 7 Pro. It's trivial to install, cheap, quiet, small. There's a review here: http://www.anandtech.com/casecoolingpsus/showdoc.aspx?i=3210
  14. Did you need an Optical Drive:

    Samsung SH-S203B SATA

    (Get the "Retail" version of the optical drive in order to get software with it. This will include the decoder you'll need to watch movies on it.)
  15. Low to Moderate OC - Artic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler

    High OC - XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler
    ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound
  16. I was reading about lapping the heatsink... is it really worth it??
  17. Some TRUEs come with very convex bases and yes lapping them does help. With the Xigmatek idk because it would be bad if you broke through the pipes
  18. Is it possible to OC my processor further than 3.0? It's factory setting is 2.4ghz and I want to OC it to where it doesn't sacrifice stability but will give me great performance. 3.0 seemed like a safe number. I'll probably choose between the Scythe Ninja / Arctic Cooler Pro 7 and the Seagate Barracuda / WD7500AAKS.

    What do you guys think about getting a 780i XFX Nvidia board instead of the P5K-E for possible future SLI with the 8800GTS? Its about 50$ more than the P5K-E but I'm not sure if the P5K-E supports SLI.
  19. Yes. I know people on this forum who got the Q6600 to 3.6 and 3.7 respectively. They used Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme and Tuniq Tower, if I remember right. You should probably get some DDR2-1066 if you're looking for that sort of overclock.

    The Scythe Ninja will probably not reach 3.7 GHz. It will reach 3.4 and do it with very little noise and at a medium price, that's why I like it. The Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro is not a great choice IMO if you're thinking about 3.4 GHz or more.

    Seagate 7200.11 competes pretty well with the WD7500AAKS, it just tends to make a little more noise and cost a bit more per GB. 7200.10 is also pretty good, but not quite as good as 7200.11.

    P5K-E does not support SLI. For SLI you need something that contains 680i (or, much better for future CPU upgrades, 780i) in its name. Search for "eVGA 780i" at newegg for example, that's a good one. Not sure about the XFX 780i, but they make great video cards so I'd trust them with a mobo too.
  20. The thing u have to decide is will you ever do SLI in say 6 months. Any later and it becomes silly because there are newer cards that are better than the dual.

    ^Agree to the above about drives and coolers
  21. Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - 110$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6811129021

    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad (Black) EPS12V 750W Power Supply 100 - 240 V UL, ULC, CE, CB, RoHS - 140$
    http://www.buy.com/prod/ocz-silenc [...] 39780.html

    Scythe SCMNJ-1000 80mm Sleeve "NINJA MINI" CPU Cooler - 35$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16835185046

    Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST3500320AS 500GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM - 120$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148288

    EVGA 512-P3-N841-A3 GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI - 300$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6814130312

    CORSAIR Dominator 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) - 160$ (2 of them)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6820145043
    Crucial Ballistix 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) - 130$ (2)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148069
    (RAM is still iffy)

    ASUS P5K-E LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - 140$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6813131225

    Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz 2 x 4MB L2 Cache LGA 775 Quad-Core Processor - 275$
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6819115017
    (OC'ed to about 3.0~3.2ghz range)

    total : 1250$ with rebates excluding shipping +tax

    This is my final final build! Thanks for all your replies.
  22. I'd pick the Crucial Ballistix. I'm just not sure you get two mail rebates if you order both sets yourself and send the rebate claims from the same address.

    The Silencer 750W is one of the best PSUs ever and can handle SLI, but with the P5K-E you're ruling out SLI. Your "final final build" would be just fine with this $120 620HX or this $74 Corsair 550VX.
    http://www.buy.com/prod/corsair-620w-sli-certified-modular-atx-power-supply/q/loc/101/203270718.html
    http://www.buy.com/prod/corsair-vx-550w-power-supply/q/loc/101/205852646.html
    You decide. Personally I got the Silencer 750W, but my video card is a GTX and consumes more, and I intend to have 6 hard disks eventually too, and a TV tuner, and a sound card, etc.
  23. How about a: PC Power & Cooling Silencer 610
  24. Silverion77 said:
    looks good. You obviously did research


    On another note....DO NOT get the P35C motherboard. DDR3 is a waste of total money atm. Get the regular DS3R or L and some nice 4 gigs of DDR2 ram. Another good P35 board is the Asus P5K-E. It is a great board to overclock that quad


    Silverion77 you were reading my mind on the DDR3 RAM, it offers no performance gain at all! I have a Raptor HDD and it has lost its performance edge over most larger HDD's. You should look at Tom's HDD charts, it has very detailed information on every aspect of performance.

    The Samsung Spinpoint F1 1000GB is an excellent performer along with the SeaGate Barracuda 7200.11 with 32MB Cache. You could also save some money on Crucial's Ballistix DDR2 800 2x1GB kit for $39.99 AMR at NewEgg, the rest of your build is topnotch. :)
  25. A Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme might net you 3.6GHz, in any case it will lower your temps reguardless and that can only be a good thing.
  26. I have another quick question, I used an online wattage calculator and with my system specs it said I would use about 388 watts at 90% load and 431 watts at 100% peak load. If I do get the PC P&C Silencer 750 Quad which offers 750W wouldn't that be a bit much?

    Is there a reasonable benefit to having such a powerful PSU or should I go for something a bit cheaper and in the 600watt range?
  27. Didn't we just answer that above? :) Yeah, you can get a 550vx or Silencer 610W or 620HX.
  28. wart thumbed said:
    I have another quick question, I used an online wattage calculator and with my system specs it said I would use about 388 watts at 90% load and 431 watts at 100% peak load. If I do get the PC P&C Silencer 750 Quad which offers 750W wouldn't that be a bit much?

    Is there a reasonable benefit to having such a powerful PSU or should I go for something a bit cheaper and in the 600watt range?


    Its not all about watts its about amps to. I need a least 30amps on my +12 volt rails for my 8800GTX, but no one makes a 350 watt 30 amp PSU. I'm using 350 watts to power my system, theres no way I'll ever get 30amps from a 350 watt PSU.
  29. Sorry, but I have one final question, I decided to add Vista to the list and I've heard 64-bit can take full advantage of 8gigs, so I switch the ram to two sets of

    CORSAIR XMS2 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)

    However, my mother boards memory standard is 1066, is it still compatible with my RAM? Or would I have to up my ram sticks to 1066?
  30. Good question. Theoretically, you should be able to use 8 GB of any DDR2-800 there without problems. However, some people had difficulty. Here's a review from newegg:

    Quote:
    Cons: it didn't work with 4x G-skill 2GB memory sticks; it can only run 667Mhz if all 4 memory socket is being used. the QVL for memory in the booklet states that 800Mhz only works with mac 1GB sticks, so it doesn't run 1066Mhz with 8GB memory for sure ... Layout is a bit tight with VGA covering SATA sockets.


    You're probably better off with a GA-P35-DS4 or aBit IP35Pro, even if they cost more.
  31. There isn't a heck of a lot of software that takes advantage of more than 4GB of RAM (gaming at least) , 4GB of RAM for gaming is not going to have a large impact. You might have 3.25GB of RAM used by even a 32bit OS, but you'll be hard pressed to find games that need that much RAM. With RAM prices so low though going 2x2GB kits seems to be the way to go, you won't lose anything only gain. G.Skill has 2x2GB RAM kits for cheap.

    G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1000 (PC2 8000) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231145
  32. Agh, well I'll see if I can alter my order to a GA-P35-DS4 instead of the ASUS P5K-E.

    Will my DDR2 800 run in a 1066 memory standard board?
  33. yes
  34. wart thumbed said:
    Agh, well I'll see if I can alter my order to a GA-P35-DS4 instead of the ASUS P5K-E.

    Will my DDR2 800 run in a 1066 memory standard board?


    Provided you get a good brand of RAM (Crucial Ballistix), you may see a higher OC than with 1066MHz RAM. I have seen Crucials OC from 800MHz to 1200MHz @ 2.2v. My Crucial's OC to 1200MHz, but I really need a fan on them for those speeds or they won't last long.
  35. I love how everyone says crucial is great ram, but yet most people out there with ram problems seems to have the most issues with this ram also. just an observation.
  36. blacksci said:
    I love how everyone says crucial is great ram, but yet most people out there with ram problems seems to have the most issues with this ram also. just an observation.


    Its funny you mention people having problems with Crucial memory because all RAM OCZ, Corsair, all have Crucial/Micron IC chips in them. Micron supplies the world with Micron IC's, but you knew that right? Observation on my part have seen the exact opposite.
  37. First off just because something is used in a wide variety of products doesnt always mean its the best. I seem to recall just a few years ago a certain tire maker in the same situation, but i digress. Second off, when i look in asus, gigabyte, or msi forums on motherboards, i can find usually within the first page people having issues with this ram. They are usually told there problem is that they are using crucial ram, and they are finicky with the boards they use, while this is the case with most ram, the only other 2 i have seen that have similar issues alot are ocz, and corsair. Kind of funny that you say that crucial supplies parts to these manufacturers in particular, when these are the 3 i see problems with alot more often then say.....pny.
  38. actually Corsair and OCZ dont even use Micron chips anymore (cheap way out :kaola:).

    And I have to agree with Systemlord, that for a 2x1 DDR2-800 set, Crucial Ballistix is the best. I'm running a Gigabyte board, and just for a quick test I got mine to 1066 CL4. I set it back for the time being for benchmark testing later on. But I have no clue how you are justifying your statement blacksci.

    IMO, all those problems are just the user not doing the installation correctly and its their fault.
  39. blacksci said:
    First off just because something is used in a wide variety of products doesnt always mean its the best. I seem to recall just a few years ago a certain tire maker in the same situation, but i digress. Second off, when i look in asus, gigabyte, or msi forums on motherboards, i can find usually within the first page someone being told there problem is that they are using crucial ram, and they are finicky with the boards they use, while this is the case with most ram, the only other 2 i have seen that have similar issues alot are ocz, and corsair. Kind of funny that you say that crucial supplies parts to these manufacturers in particular, when these are the 3 i see problems with alot more often then say.....pny.


    You mean the mobo's are finicky with the Crucial RAM, and not the other way around. I can't believe you quoting from forums asus, gigabyte, and msi forums when most are user self inflicked. First on the Asus forums I see people needlessly updating the BIOS to versions that are known for making your once stable RAM unstable. People have a bad habbit of updating the BIOS without checking if the one they already have is good enough, I am still on the BIOS that came with my mobo.


    The people having problems with their RAM might be using BIOS known to be unstable with most RAM, I know for a fact that the next three BIOS version above mine will make my memory unstable. Also people that buy the Asus P5E if planning to use a Q6600 better use the BIOS that came with the mobo, because most BIOS version above 0203 don't play nice with the Q6600 all the time.

    Heres what most mobo makers have to say about updating the BIOS,
    Quote:
    Please note, BIOS update is only recommended when experiencing technical difficulties with your system, And is not recommended to be performed regularly.

    Moreover, due to the nature of BIOS update, there is certain level of dangers involved. BIOS update must be performed with extreme caution . During BIOS update process, your system must be maintained without interference or power loss to prevent unexpected damage.
  40. Lol no i meant crucial ram is finicky with boards, since other brands of ram work just fine plugin, turnon, and go. And yes i quote forums, becuase you get the best real world view from people actually using the product on a daily basis, not just slapping together a comp, running a few benches on it, proclaiming this is the best setup, then tear it apart. And yes i do understand that alot of peoples problems that they are having with there computer are in fact operator error, but it still begs the question, does that mean anyone having a issue with there comp is retarded then? Or do i go with the more realistic approach, take all them negative comments, and figure about half of them are operator error? Im not saying crucial is horrible ram, as a matter of fact i havent said that at all, nor will i, but is it the best? In my humble opinion, the best ram is the one that works. Its just that i have noticed alot of people have issues with crucial ram, and getting it to work correctly in there setups. As far as updating bios goes, well i try not to myself, and agree that most people wont even see a diffrence if the bios they are running is working just fine, and then they update it hoping for some kind of gain. As far as justifing my opinion, well, lets see, its mine, justification enough for me.
  41. Silverion77 said:
    But I have no clue how you are justifying your statement blacksci. IMO, all those problems are just the user not doing the installation correctly and its their fault.


    Its seems that blacksci see's all these people having problems with Crucial RAM and assumes it because of the RAM that these people are having problems and not users level of understanding of installing, setup, and needlessly updating BIOS.


    @Silverion77, when did OCZ and Corsair stop using Micron IC's?
  42. Lol, "oh lord when did i go wrong" ...oh yeah thats right i criticized someones ram. And its funny that My assumption is wrong and yet......yours is right, hmmm.....
  43. blacksci said:
    Its just that i have noticed alot of people have issues with crucial ram, and getting it to work correctly in there setups.


    This link I'm giving you shows something completely different from what you are justifing. In this link you will see that it just works.

    Link >>> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820146565
  44. blacksci said:
    Lol, "oh lord when did i go wrong" ...oh yeah thats right i criticized someones ram. And its funny that My assumption is wrong and yet......yours is right, hmmm.....


    Your assumption is just short sided thats all, since when is this so funny. :sarcastic:
  45. Well your responses is what cracks me up, that and you cant even admit some people have issues with this ram, not all, but a few, well more then a few. Adata btw has more positive reviews about there ram along with g-skill, then the crucial on the newegg reviews in case your curious. But what im getting a kick out of the most is the fact that honestly, niether of us can be proven wrong or right.
  46. blacksci said:
    Lol no i meant crucial ram is finicky with boards, since other brands of ram work just fine plugin, turnon, and go.

    Since when does Crucial not just plugin, turn on and go?? Mine just went in and I turned on the computer, and WOW...it worked.

    Quote:
    @Silverion77, when did OCZ and Corsair stop using Micron IC's?

    Last I remember they dont use Micron D9 chips anymore. I could be wrong though :P

    Also Blacksci, those ADATA and G. Skill kits are on a different performance standard. The part about the Crucial that makes them the best is 1) great support (I would now when I needed a rma, but it was actually a problem with memtest) and 2) Amazing overclocking

    Ditto
  47. If we were just talking performance in overclocking i would agree, crucial is much better then the other brands out there by far, and for alot cheaper. But i was talking generally myself since i dont overclock, (no reason too). The other ram i mentioned was simply to get lords goat, i understand the huge performance diffrences these diffrent rams bring to the table, to just point at one say its the best, well we had no basis on what we consider the best so i guess the whole discussion is moot, but i had fun. lol
  48. I have used three different kinds of OCZ ram for three different builds, and they've all run gloriously, so people can complain about it all they want based on other peoples' customer reviews, but I'm happy with my OCZ ram and unless there's a strong reason to sway me to another type of ram, I'm going to continue buying the OCZ.
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