Righto, first the reason I want to go into the realms of peltier cooling;
1: I'm bored
2: Spare £40 in 50 pence's' . ( Yeah I'm sad, i save all my coins in the year then spend it on a prezzi for myself.. you may laugh though I have £480 just in £2 coins so back to you). I have pics for you none believers so no flaming !
3: My CPU water loop atm isn't creating the temps i'm expecting;
4.0Ghz @ 1.36v = 38C idle - 55-60C load.
EK supreme -> 6.5LPM (1.69 US gallons per min) pump with 1.5m pressure head --> ThermoChill PA120.1 --> 76 CFM fan --> 3/8" tubing.
According to the link data it should handle about 175W of cooling capacity. Remounted the w/b several times making only a 2-3C difference.
http://www.thermochill.com/PATesting/index.php#PA120
I understand that I will have to worry about condensation (soaking PC in diesel as we speak ), I also have roughly worked out i can bodge/connect the 245W peltier contacts to my PSU (880W Hiper with 4 dedicated 12V rails) as i understand it draws around 20 Amps. My entire rig draws: CPU 78W @4.0ghz, combined GFX with o/c tops 380-400W. That gives me around 350ish watts to play with taking into account the 2 water pumps and rest of the system etc...
Main question is, if my CPU water loop can barely restrain my CPU atm will it be able to cope with the hot side of the peltier? If not what could i do to improve it (though I can't fit a PA120.2 rad in replacement of the PA120.1 inside my Lain Li)? If so, i can't find anything about whether you can directly mount the peltier onto your CPU or if you definitely require the cold plate between the CPU and Peltier? Although i'm guessing the cold plate also gives you a handy deep base to mount the gasket (which i can 'borrow' from work )?
My goal is to have a 24/7 4.4Ghz minimum, I don't care too much about voltage(yeah i know the warnings!) as long as it last till January, my rebirthing period, I don't really care . All for the lofty sum of £40.
Just like to build things, tiz all. You could suggest these, but here's my views... Going phase is cheating unless you build the refrigeration units yourself, LN2/Dry Ice is fine as it's custom though not practical 24/7.
As a note of interest for the reader, my GFX loop keeps both cards @ 100% load below 43C, since removing the CPU from the original loop. Idle at 27C Physics - 30C Primary display adapter.
EK full cover waterblocks --> ThermoChill PA120.3 --> MCP355. 3/8" tubing
1: I'm bored
2: Spare £40 in 50 pence's' . ( Yeah I'm sad, i save all my coins in the year then spend it on a prezzi for myself.. you may laugh though I have £480 just in £2 coins so back to you). I have pics for you none believers so no flaming !
3: My CPU water loop atm isn't creating the temps i'm expecting;
4.0Ghz @ 1.36v = 38C idle - 55-60C load.
EK supreme -> 6.5LPM (1.69 US gallons per min) pump with 1.5m pressure head --> ThermoChill PA120.1 --> 76 CFM fan --> 3/8" tubing.
According to the link data it should handle about 175W of cooling capacity. Remounted the w/b several times making only a 2-3C difference.
http://www.thermochill.com/PATesting/index.php#PA120
I understand that I will have to worry about condensation (soaking PC in diesel as we speak ), I also have roughly worked out i can bodge/connect the 245W peltier contacts to my PSU (880W Hiper with 4 dedicated 12V rails) as i understand it draws around 20 Amps. My entire rig draws: CPU 78W @4.0ghz, combined GFX with o/c tops 380-400W. That gives me around 350ish watts to play with taking into account the 2 water pumps and rest of the system etc...
Main question is, if my CPU water loop can barely restrain my CPU atm will it be able to cope with the hot side of the peltier? If not what could i do to improve it (though I can't fit a PA120.2 rad in replacement of the PA120.1 inside my Lain Li)? If so, i can't find anything about whether you can directly mount the peltier onto your CPU or if you definitely require the cold plate between the CPU and Peltier? Although i'm guessing the cold plate also gives you a handy deep base to mount the gasket (which i can 'borrow' from work )?
My goal is to have a 24/7 4.4Ghz minimum, I don't care too much about voltage(yeah i know the warnings!) as long as it last till January, my rebirthing period, I don't really care . All for the lofty sum of £40.
Just like to build things, tiz all. You could suggest these, but here's my views... Going phase is cheating unless you build the refrigeration units yourself, LN2/Dry Ice is fine as it's custom though not practical 24/7.
As a note of interest for the reader, my GFX loop keeps both cards @ 100% load below 43C, since removing the CPU from the original loop. Idle at 27C Physics - 30C Primary display adapter.
EK full cover waterblocks --> ThermoChill PA120.3 --> MCP355. 3/8" tubing