Help Watercooling

Hey guys I'm thinking about doing watercooling. First I need a cheap kit I'm thinking either:

Swiftech H2O Compact 120 and a Obsidian Waterblock for my 9800GTX

OR

Thermaltake 760i and a Koolance 9800GTX waterblock and nosells.


Both are around 300$ total

Srry bout spelling
62 answers Last reply
More about help watercooling
  1. all ready looked I'm either going with one of those 2 options
  2. Cya in less than a year or so if you buy Thermaltake, I'll repost the links.
  3. what do u men by cya in less thaan a year if u buy thermaltake
  4. Cow-moo, the H20 Compact 120, by itself, is a decent CPU cooling loop as the Apogee concept is still more than adequate for cooling purposes. But, it does, in fact, only have a single 120mm rad and, realistically speaking, is only capable of handling a very particular heat load. If you o'clocked at all or intended to add a second waterblock to the loop then you would be tasking the radiator's very limited capabilities AND the capabilities of the MCP350 pump that the cooling loop comes with. The H20 - 220 Compact is better able to handle two waterblocks - providing that you do no o'clocking - as it does have a dual 120mm rad at least.

    The Thermaltake 760i, while having a slightly more powerful pump than the MCP350 in the Swiftech kit (132gph versus 116gph - head pressure doesn't factor into a cooling loop this small), really does handcuff you with it's limited capabilities as well. The enclosed rad is a single 120mm unit. You would need to add a second rad somewhere in the loop to compensate for the added heat load of the GPU waterblock. Even IF you did that, any intention you might have of o'clocking would be severally limited as even adding a second rad (which would be the equivalent of a dual 120mm rad) doesn't give you much leeway to get rid of the added heat resulting from even doing simple o'clocking.

    So, the sum of it all is that with two 120mm rads (whether it be a dual 120mm rad or 2 single 120mm rads) - your oclocking capabilities are limited - because of the radiator situation AND the pump capabilities. All that, plus the fact that both kits are 3/8ID, will not give you much area to work for o'clocking, experimentation or future expansion of the cooling loop.

    I felt that you should understand what you were actually dealing with before you committed to making a choice.
  5. If you are asking
    Quote:
    what do u men by cya in less thaan a year if u buy thermaltake
    then you really haven't read enough.

    If you had read and done plenty of research, there really would be no need to ask which kit to get because you would already know that you need to get specific components from different vendors...not just one 'kit'.

    Thank you Phreejak for pointing out the limitations of each kit (mainly radiators) and providing some advice on them. It is early, and I am only on my first cup of coffee; forgive the bluntness of my response. :)
  6. First and formost the two words cheap and watercooling combined are a route to disaster. In todays dictionary on watercooling the definition of the word Thermaltake is a leaking mess.
  7. well I have looked at the benchies for both the swiftechs 120 and 220 with a second loop and they are almost identical #s maybe a differenceby 1-2C. ANSI already know to check for leaks before. I'm actually only ocing my GPU NOT CPU
  8. If you seriously want to go with a kit and are wanting to cool both your CPU and GPU you will need something better than a single radiator. If $300 is your budget I would highly suggest this kit http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sislcpugpuco.html
    although if you can I would suggest pick and choosing your parts. For me swiftech or danger den are the only way to go when it comes to water cooling blocks. They are really high performing and leak proof.

    I cool a 9800gtx ssc, and a Q6600 with mine and use most of what is in this kit.
  9. thx for that link im going to either buy the swiftec compact 120 or the compact 220

    Ill post some diagrams of how this will be used with the swiftech 120/220 and which one u guys think will best acording to my diagrams.

    I also have a Cosmos S
  10. Hey do u guys know how to post a pic not off of a website?
  11. LOL yea cheap watercooling. yea that'll work. you will be coming back here asking us to rate your next build you are buying after a few weeks when the cheap watercooling system leaks frying your entire PC
  12. Great kit,

    http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=333&cat=65&page=1#tabs

    You should be able to get this kit into your cosmos. WAY better kit than the two you liked.
  13. do it yourself... you'll get much better performance for less
  14. There is only 1 way to water cool and that is building the loop from parts. $350 will make you an amazing CPU loop.

    I would suggest to not even bother with water unless you plan on running a high OC. You are likely to only loss 2-6 degrees…

    Get yourself a Xigmatek Air cooler for $40 and call it a day. My new PC I went with the Xigmatec instead of a custom water system like I had on my old rig and im very happy I did. Water is fun to build and it works great but that’s where the benefits end. Your PC when full of water needs maintenance, can’t be moved very much, and is every bit as loud as my Air cooled rig and of course the expense/time.
  15. Quote:
    I'm going to suggest a much better WC kit:

    http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] g30c83s137
    $250 + S&H (much better than either of those loops you posted)


    Ya im thinking about getting this now.

    But can i mount it in the front of the case or do i need to mount it in the back of the case with the external attachment??

    Quote:
    There is only 1 way to water cool and that is building the loop from parts. $350 will make you an amazing CPU loop.

    I would suggest to not even bother with water unless you plan on running a high OC. You are likely to only loss 2-6 degrees…

    Get yourself a Xigmatek Air cooler for $40 and call it a day. My new PC I went with the Xigmatec instead of a custom water system like I had on my old rig and im very happy I did. Water is fun to build and it works great but that’s where the benefits end. Your PC when full of water needs maintenance, can’t be moved very much, and is every bit as loud as my Air cooled rig and of course the expense/time.


    Just to let u know im overclocking the CPU and GPU at the same and different times.
  16. Don't mean to beat a dead horse, but here is ANOTHER thread about less than good WC stuff. I have seen sooo many of these.

    http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/394459-my-new-wc-setup.html
  17. You can mount it however you want. If you goggle your case and the word watercooling you probably will find some build mods for your case.

    It's all up to you and your abilities.
  18. this is a perfect water loop... just buy these parts.
    OD = Outside Diameter
    ID = Inside Diameter

    1)-9 metal hose clamps from hardware store (these work the best, under a buck each)

    2)-Swiftech Opogee GTZ Waterblock OR D-TEK Customs Fuzion V2 - 5/9”OD barbs (the difference between the top end cpu blocks is about 1 degree.. I choose the one I thought looked best)

    3)-Swiftech MCP655 12v Industrial pump (this is an awesome pump, a bitch to get the tubing over it, but it will go…patients)

    4)-1*Smartcoils 625blue (wrap around tubes to keep from kinking)

    5)-10 foot Masterclear pvc tubing 7/16”ID , 5/9”OD (flexible and inexpensive)

    6)-3* Scythe S-Flex SFF21F fans (for the Radiator) (fans…whichever you like the most are fine)

    7)-2*Swiftech ½” OD Chrome plated barbs (for radiator)

    8)-Copper T connection (for the T line) (Hardware store, get a 5/9 or 1” OD copper or brass)

    9)-Feser One Fluid UV Purple NON-CONDUCTIVE Water Replacement (used about 20 OZ. for this system, 1 bottle is crazy overkill….this is not in my Picture, I changed the water, looks 100% better….

    10)-Danger Den Fillport (goes top of T line to get water into the system from outside, makes system look far more professional/clean)

    11)-Swiftech MCB-120 Radbox (used to attach the radiator to the back of machine, or wherever you would like…makes install a breeze.)

    12)- Thermochill Pa 120.3 Triple 120MM Fan Water Cooling Radiator


    This is what it looks like:
    http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll262/Grieve666/th_001.jpg

    ***If you want to cool the GPU(s) I would build a second loop to do it proper, however this loop can easily handle a single GPU added.

    ***edit***
    added a better pic:
    http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll262/Grieve666/th_good1.jpg
  19. Nice looking rig. But that looks like a MCR320 and a GTX. Are you giving updated models?
  20. ok now I'm going to either get a Swiftech Compact 220 or the ultra 220 or a custom kit from danger den.

    Also THX for slapping some sense into me =):)
  21. No worries, ya just didn't know yet. Thanks, many don't listen. And liquids..... Experianced WC users who don't need color use distilled water and biocide. Cheap and effective. I don't feel like linking to lots of posts and vids of distilled water vs expensive liquids and whats better. For colored tubing, Feser makes some really neat colored UV tubing now.

    Danger Den is one place that sells it. Look at Petras for decent stuff too.
  22. ya I have I love that tubing. Guys I will be posting full specs of all the systems I'm thinking of. Also I need to know if I can Velcro a RES and a pump on top of my HDD cage (the one that comes with the Cosmos S). Oh and one more thing I need a order to put it in. Ge'ez forgot one more thing do pumps have a in and a out to connect tubes if so which side is and which side is out??
  23. It's the outside one on the D5 and the MCP355. Both pumps take water into the middle and force it to the outside. It's how they work I guess.

    Velco would be fine.
    Again, billions of methods, up to you.
  24. I yeah thx can u guys reccomend me a custom kit off of danger den for under 270$ preferably 230$ or less no including a GPU waterblock (if GPU block too 370$ is the max
  25. crap I need to know if the MAZE 5 from DD will mount with 4 or 2 screwes or whatever I'm prety sure it's 4 though. I yeah if I do go the DANGER DEN route I will get the MAZE5 with some ramsinks from somewhere
  26. I won't recommend a kit at $230 if your in the future plan to cool a GPU. I have problems with $270 for a CPU only loop but it can be done. $370 and using a Maze 5 for the GPU is not bad.

    Remember if your cooling a CPU and GPU like that one get a 120x3 rad. Your temps will thank you.
  27. well I'm trying to stay dual rad
  28. I would be careful placing a res OVER your HDDs. Since you are asking about velcro, I assume you want to be able to move it - perhaps for filling and bleeding. You certaininly don't want to fill it while it's over your HDDs as you will invaribly spill some. Also, while bleeding (with the top open) you risk a backsplash on pump starttup.

    I'd suggest the Swiftech MicroRes which gives you many mounting options - or nix'ing a reservoir all together and just using a T-line. That makes bleeding take longer, but you only need to bleed when you empty and refill your loop.

    Besides asthetics, there is a partical value in UV fluids. Under UV light, any small pinhole leaks will show up. Many experienced WC'er use UV fluids. It's a matter of personal choice. I do agree that Distilled water plus some additive works as well if not better than the expensive pre-mixed fluids. Non-conductive fluid is overrated, IMO. I just plan not to spill any :non: - and any fluid will become conductive once it's run through the loop for a while.

    I found this over at Overclock.net on radiators compatible with the Cosmos S:
    http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/302991-cosmos-rc1100-radiator-compatability.html

    That's a pretty good sized case, and you should be able to fit one of these 360s inside top. If you want to stay dual, then just note the limitations on what you can cool.
  29. TonyL222 said:
    Nice looking rig. But that looks like a MCR320 and a GTX. Are you giving updated models?

    Correct that is GTX and a MCR320... I gave him specs of what i felt i should have bought.
  30. I hear ya. I think the Fuzion V2 came out within a coupl of weeks of my buying the V1. It's not worth the upgrade to me right now just for a couple of degress difference.
  31. GET THIS ONE!!!

    http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=333&cat=65&page=1#tabs

    This is a GREAT kit for the money. It has a triple rad, D5 pump, MC TDX CPU Block, Feser Fluid, Tygon Tubing, and 3 fans. It also includes a delrin block for a "T" line for the reservior, Which I personally like better.

    I probably wouldn't go the MAZE 5/ramsink route with the 9800GTX. A lot of guys do, but it is a pain, especially if you're new to GPU blocks. (There are just a TON of points that need cooling) I like full coverage blocks. Like these two.

    http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=339&cat=48&page=1
    http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekfucowaforn2.html

    both good options, I would probably get the EK and save a few bucks.

    $261.00
    +$109.99

    =$370.99 less shipping
  32. Quote:
    GET THIS ONE!!!

    http://www.dangerden.com/store/pro [...] age=1#tabs

    This is a GREAT kit for the money. It has a triple rad, D5 pump, MC TDX CPU Block, Feser Fluid, Tygon Tubing, and 3 fans. It also includes a delrin block for a "T" line for the reservior, Which I personally like better.


    THX im now thinking hard about that 1. so if i do go tri rad on top do i put the case fans above the rad (inside the case) or above it on the metal?? The fans will be blowing air out of the case obiously. And another question will the rad set my desk on fire since i have my case below my desk and its wood so i dont want my house to set on fire.

    Quote:
    I probably wouldn't go the MAZE 5/ramsink route with the 9800GTX. A lot of guys do, but it is a pain, especially if you're new to GPU blocks. (There are just a TON of points that need cooling) I like full coverage blocks. Like these two.

    http://www.dangerden.com/store/pro [...] =48&page=1
    http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekfucowaforn2.html

    both good options, I would probably get the EK and save a few bucks.


    Ya i decided no to go the Maze 5 route i would Get that EK.

    Quote:
    I would be careful placing a res OVER your HDDs. Since you are asking about velcro, I assume you want to be able to move it - perhaps for filling and bleeding. You certaininly don't want to fill it while it's over your HDDs as you will invaribly spill some. Also, while bleeding (with the top open) you risk a backsplash on pump starttup.

    I'd suggest the Swiftech MicroRes which gives you many mounting options - or nix'ing a reservoir all together and just using a T-line. That makes bleeding take longer, but you only need to bleed when you empty and refill your loop.


    Then where would i put it??
  33. >>Then where would i put it??

    The Micro Res can be mounted in any number of ways and places. You would just want to be sure that it is higher than and feeding the pump (res out leads to pump in). I just wouldn't put it over the HDDs, but that's me.

    The kit in the link doesn't use a res at all. It uses a T-line instead
  34. The fan question is entirely up to you. Fans on top saves some room in the case, but then you have stuff on top of your case. I like everything internal if space allows.

    Your rad should NEVER get hot enough to set your desk on fire, something would be seriously wrong with your comp to get that hot. (Wood has a very high flash temperature too). Point being, if you opt to mount your radiator on your desk, it would be fine. This would be kind of cool for that http://www.mountainmods.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=radical&x=19&y=11 .

    If you opt for a "T" line, you dont need a reservior.
  35. I am running the MCW60 block on my 9800GTX with RAM sinks...core at 815, memory at 1250 (decided not to clock up the RAM too much) and I haven't had any problem.

    LOL...seriously, if your PC gets hot enough to light anything on fire, you have far bigger issues to concern yourself with. :)
  36. So u guys dont think it will set my desk on fire!!!

    And how does a T line work??

    Also i will be posting the full specs of each system im thinking about getting
  37. Exactly what it sounds like...a fitting that is a T shaped. Your coolant will flow through the portion that is straight through --- while the junction will serve as a way to fill the system.
  38. Ahh, I just looked at some pics of a cosmos, and nm what I said earlier. I would put those fans on top of the metal pulling through.

    A "T" line uses a "T" fitting. It is in your loop right behind the inlet to the pump. The other straight through barb is connected to whatever is behind the pump in your loop. The third barb of the "T" fitting is connected to a length of tubing which is connected to a fill port, or just plugged and tied up somewhere. This length of tubing is the fill tube/reservior.
  39. Here's each of the setups:

    1: Tower-21 Cooling Kit 360mm Radiator
    CPU Block: TDX Standard
    GPU Block:EK 9800GTX
    Tubing Size: 1/2 in
    Tubing: Tygon clear
    Pump: D5 fixed Speed

    2. Dangerden Custom Kit
    CPU Block: TDX
    Top: Brass Top
    GPU Block: EK 9800GTX
    Fitting Size: 1/2 in OD
    Radiator: Black Ice Pro II
    Fans: 2 Yate Loon Meduim
    Pump: CPX-1 12v
    Tubing: 7ft of clearflex
    Res: Single 5 1/4
    ETC: Fillport, 12 hose clamps

    3.Swiftech H20-APEX ULTRA from frozencpu.com
    GPU Waterblock: EK 9800GTX
    Tubing: Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) will it fit on the APEX ultra or Compact??

    4. Swiftech H20-220 Compact CPU Liquid Cooling Kit from frozen cpu

    GPU Waterblock: EK 9800GTX
    Tubing: Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) will it fit on the APEX ultra or Compact??
  40. You just need to make sure that your tubing sizes are the same. If the fittings say 1/2" ID, then get 1/2" ID tubing...some even say 7/16"...should work fine. If you have problems with tubing that doesn't want to go on...don't force it, you can stress crack fittings. Just use a little canned silicone spray and it should slide right on. (insert witty remark here)
  41. #1 will make you happiest :pt1cable: Dont forget, it also comes with any color of Feser fluid, and three Yate Loon fans.

    Also, get the MC-TDX, not the standard TDX. It will allow for a Quad core.
  42. http://www.mountainmods.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=radical&x=19&y=11 .

    Haha, my case is the MM Ascension. I have two, PA120.3s inside (space for a 3rd). I could put my bedroom in there, and now they sell a case expansion kit
  43. Check this out too, FIVE FREE FEET OF FESER COLERED TUBING!!!

    http://www.dangerden.com/store/onsale.php?onsaleid=21
  44. cow_moo said:
    Here's each of the setups:

    1: Tower-21 Cooling Kit 360mm Radiator
    CPU Block: TDX Standard
    GPU Block:EK 9800GTX
    Tubing Size: 1/2 in
    Tubing: Tygon clear
    Pump: D5 fixed Speed

    2. Dangerden Custom Kit
    CPU Block: TDX
    Top: Brass Top
    GPU Block: EK 9800GTX
    Fitting Size: 1/2 in OD
    Radiator: Black Ice Pro II
    Fans: 2 Yate Loon Meduim
    Pump: CPX-1 12v
    Tubing: 7ft of clearflex
    Res: Single 5 1/4
    ETC: Fillport, 12 hose clamps

    3.Swiftech H20-APEX ULTRA from frozencpu.com
    GPU Waterblock: EK 9800GTX
    Tubing: Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) will it fit on the APEX ultra or Compact??

    4. Swiftech H20-220 Compact CPU Liquid Cooling Kit from frozen cpu

    GPU Waterblock: EK 9800GTX
    Tubing: Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) will it fit on the APEX ultra or Compact??


    I'm not sure on your rad size. Most will agree a 120x2 rad isn't going to be enough to kep temp good. And you WILL upgrade the GPU etc later to a much hotter one. Please consider starting with a 120x3 sized rad since your going CPU/GPU.

    And umm 3/8 ID 1/2 OD, there is no such creature. I suggest going 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. It's solid, doesn't kink easy, and isn't a real pain to get on/off like 7/16 ID on 1/2 barbs.
  45. guys I'm going #1 with the tri rad + it will allow for (some) expansion later.

    So now I don't need a res so to fill up all I have to do is unplug the cap that's holing it from leaking right??

    So now there is no worry about fittings!!

    THX for all ur guys help!!!!

    I also need an order to put it in I'm thinking Rad-Pump-CPU block-GPU Block-rad.

    Also where to put the pump in my cosmos s?? It's very cluttered on the bottom of the case by the way
  46. Pump placement is up to you. Wire management is your friend. Most place near the bottom and the res right before the intake of the pump.

    Res or Tline, pump, then whatever you want, CPU next preferably but not important. Try and put the rad barbs facing up to help bleed the air out.

    mWater temps throughout the whole loop will be no more than 2C different, anywhere, and with a decent 120x3 rad your loop temps will be less than 7C above ambient air temps.

    And we call it a 120x3 or a 360 sized rad. But we usually save the 360 name for Thermochill rads, since thats the name of thier rad.

    Have you Googled your case name and the word watercool yet? I thought I mentioned that before. Spend 20-30 min doing that and you'll see plenty of ways your case has been done.

    Worry about fittings. Some are good, some are bad. Some rads have different thread sizes. Plastic fittings suck, replace them with good ones. DangerDen Fatboys are popular. And get the right barb size. Some parts come with good barbs.

    Clamps, don't forget clamps on the barbs. No, you don't need a res, you can use a T-line, but what are you talking about "unplug the cap"?????.
  47. Thanks I'll put pics of my case on photobucket tommorow and I'll post them too. This is also to help tell me where I can put my pump and how ready my system is for watercooling
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