8800 GTS 512 Cooler

Yeah it'd seem your Overclocks are your reasons for the added heat! Drop your overclocks to 750 / 1750 / 1000... watch those Temps fall, and I bet your performance wont notice a thing. (maybe 1FPS!)

I would go for the Zalman GV1000, It sell's for around 50 bucks.

http://www.zalman.co.kr/ENG/product/Product_Read.asp?id...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Here is a list of website's you can check for reviews.
http://www.zalman.co.kr/ENG/PR/Media/Review/List.asp

Did you increase the fan speed through programs like Rivatuner?

increase your fan speed to 45% and it will still be qiuet.mot really worth getting a after market cooler.as the standard cooler is pretty good and it will vent hot air out of the case rather than circulating it,

Sad as I am, I'm trying to reach 15,000 points with my system (300 points short) so decreasing the clocks isn't really an option as such. Also, the temps didn't go down by much when I downclocked it.

I haven't been able to find many reviews on the GV1000 but I suppose the VF1000 is pretty much the same thing. A problem is the additional RAM heatsinks which one has to buy for the 8800 series.

When the fan speed is at 45% the idle temperatures are fine at around 65 degrees and the load temps are 80+, which is too much. At above 45% the sound of the fan is pretty loud, it just seems like the fan is too small and is moving too much air for its size.

However, the way that it vents the air is a good idea, as I'm trying to keep down the temperatures of my CPU right above it too.

The Arctic Cooling Accelero S1 seems to be a good cooler (with added fans), does anybody have anything to say about it?

I TOTALLY agree. 80C? THAT IS INSANE for that card. I have never seen mine go above 65C and I have stock cooling at 750/1000. And I let mine manage the fan itself. What brand card do you have?

Also, the GTS 512 has a GREAT stock cooler, that is why you don't see any articles for aftermarket stuff.


Haha that is sad. 15,000 in what? 3DM06? What is the rest of your system? The GT and GTS actually really suck at gaining a score by overclocking. They have 16 ROPS compared to the GTX and ULTRA at 24. These are directly related to the GPU overclock so a 100MHZ OC in the GTX is MUCH MUCH more than it is in the G92 GPU's. My System with the GTS at stock(650/?whatever) was 13K and 13.2K with the OC (750/1000). So for you to gain 300 is ini my opinion an impossible task.

MY suggestion is to gain those 300 points through some other mean, like a CPU overclock.

I have an E8400 which is currently at 3.91 GHz, 2 GB of DDR2-1066 RAM, Gigabyte P35-DS3R motherboard and an EVGA 8800 GTS 512 G92.

Yes, I'm talking about 3Dmark06 and you're right in saying that the 300 points are a real pain, each 100 MHz from the CPU also brings me up by around 100 points I think - miserable.

I've even added an air tunnel right above my graphics card with a fan pulling out air from the inside of my computer (from right above the graphics card) as well as another fan blowing air outwards through the tunnel from the inside.

My CPU gets quite warm too as I only have air cooling (Scythe Infinity, old name for the Mugen) and I'm trying to shield it from the heat from the GPU.

I've also removed the air tunnel which I made and it didn't increase the GPU temperature so this isn't the source of the "problem".

It's quite strange, all of the other information that I hear reports much lower temperatures, such as yours jay2tall which is 15 degrees lower than mine.

I have plenty of case fans too (I think all the fans add up to 7 or 8) so there is plenty of airflow.

What brand GTS do you have? I've heard some of those needed a firmware update somehow that corrects the fan speed. Maybe that's an issue. My fan hits like 50-60% around 60C.

Dude those e8400 OC well. Maybe you can work with that. Why do you need 15K in 06 anyways? personal satisfaction?

You sound like me when I wanted to get my CPU from 3-3.2 GHZ. it took a large increase in core temp and I had to go from the AC Freezer PRO 7 cooler to the Gigantic Thermalright Ultra-120 with sythe fan. That puppy is one AWESOME cooler. Kept my temp down and i could increase my core voltage. Granted its still lower than others at the same speed by im more comfortable with the temp. My CPU OC relaly gave me a good increase in 3DM05 well at the time that is what i was using.

I think you already have the most effective cooler for your card, excepting, perhaps going to water cooling. While other oem vga coolers might do a better job of removing heat from the vga chip, they do not send the hot air out the back like the stock cooler does. The recirculated hot vga air just compounds the problem. heating the air that cools both the vga chip and the cpu.

VGA cards run hot, and are designed to do so. I think 100c is well within their specs.

It is possible that during assembly of the card, the cooler was not seated properly, so you might try reseating it with a good thermal compound.

For cpu cooling, look into the thermalright ultra 120 extreme. It is just about the best for high overclocks. The ifx-14 could even be better if it fits.

I can vouch for the recirculated hot air. I had a thermalright HR-03 on a x1900xtx prior to the GTS card. When I replaced cards my mobo temp dropped 5C

I would agree with reseating with good grease. I've heard some people having this problem, from all manufactures, and it remedied the issue. Good call GEOFELT!

I also agree with the Ultra-120 Xtreme. However I think the ifx-14 is just ridiculously overboard, you may as well go water if you are looking at this monstrous thing.

I have an EVGA 8800 GTS. The fan speeds seem to work, I just have a high temperature. At 45% one can barely hear it, which confirms other reports. However, my temperatures are a lot higher than other people's. Maybe EVGA failed at attaching my heatsink or they thought it would be funny to receive hate mail from a few customers. I dunno.

I also happen to have a bad sample of the E8400 which won't overclock to more than 3.8 GHz and still remain 100% Prime stable. I've bumped up the vCore to 1.45 and it still wouldn't Prime for more than 10 minutes on 4.0 GHz, which is a poor result when comparing to others who achieved the same with 1.35 Volts. The Scythe is supposed to be one of the best air coolers too.

And yes of course, personal satisfaction is the best type of satisfaction. =D Seems like I've just been unlucky with my purchases.

I should also add that this is my second motherboard, my first one didn't work and I had to return it. *sigh*

Just curious, what does your Card run temp wise when you run it stock?

thats strange I have mine set @ 800/1944/2200 and it never goes above 65c and idle @ 35c default cooler Ive got my fan on 80%
evga 8800gts 512 non oced version
probably defective cooler not molded to seat right, you might need to regrease it heavily for contact

I just checked and it idles at exactly the same temperatures, at 71 degrees Celsius.

The IFX-14 gives 4 degrees lower temperatures than the Scythe Mugen / Infinity on low fan settings and 1 degree lower on high speed fan settings, so it isn't really worth it in my eyes, as both new coolers are relatively expensive. This is according to some reviews that I just looked up.

I was thinking of buying a third party cooler and mounting a 92 mm fan at the back of the slots on my computer to simulate what the stock cooler does.

I've heard that the northbridge gets really warm on my P35-DS3R too, perhaps it would be worth investing into a third party northbridge cooler too.

It would just seem a bit redundant removing the stock cooler and then putting it back on, more fun when you have something new to put on  

Btw, thanks for all the input, greatly appreciated.

YEAH! your cooler is the issue. I idle at 48-51 degrees depending on the ambient temp. Even lower in my buddies basement. I would do the following.
1) take off the cooler and clean the GPU with alcohol. Regrease and put back on. You will have to watch not to get the RAM cooler pasties dirty.
2) if that does not work RMA it, it is not right.

The VF1000 is what I would consider an average cooler as far as cooling performance goes considering it's price, however I do understand that Zalman products are more geared towards silent usage than performance. A few months ago I did a similar thing getting a cooler for my 8800GTS and for my brother's 8800GT, after a lot of reading we decided on the following as the better coolers for the cooling performance they provide:

ZEROtherm Hurricane HC92 Cu 8800 UFO VGA Cooler - Retail

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

ZEROtherm Hurricane HC92 Cu UFO VGA Cooler - Retail

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Thermaltake CL-G0102 VGA Cooler - Retail (Thermaltake DuOrb)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

You might be wondering what the difference is between the first and second one. Basically the first one is for the G80 series and the other one is for the rest, the ONLY difference is that the G80 series Zerotherm Hurricane brings a few more RAM heatsinks than the second apart from those extra heatsinks they are identical in every way, I listed it to explain the difference only since you have a G92 card. At this point the best cooler for the money is the Thermaltake DuOrb, however the Hurricane runs 1-2 degrees cooler but costs $5-7 more.

Here's a valuable review for you to compare performance, basically the only better cooler than these two is the Thermalright HR-03, but it'll run for about $65-70 total after you buy a fan for a measly 1 or 2 degrees.

http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MTQyMywx...

Few highlights of the review:

@emp: The tests you referenced were done with the parts outside of the case. In that situation, the recirculation of air is not a factor. I expect that they were accurate,in finding the most efficient vga heat extractors, but not necessarily the best for a real situation where the parts are in the case.

EVGA sells a AKIMBO dual slot fan kit for the 8800GT for $39.99 http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=202-F2-EV0...
It appears to be the same as the stock 8800GTS-512 cooler. It seems better to me, to just get the 8800GTS-512 in the first place.

Video cards are made to run HOT. I personally think with the older larger die GPU's it was well worth it to get a cooler. Lately I don't think its really to an advantage. If redoing the stock cooler doesn't help I'd RMA it.

Besides I don't like the extra heat in my case and the stock cooler blows that crap right out the back. Heck it may hurt your CPU overclock having more heat in your case..... you never know.

just stick with the original cooler and run it on a higher speed.and i should be smooth as those double cream on the shelf of your loacl supermarket!: 

I'll remove the stock cooler as soon as I can and see what happens. When I set it to 100%, I idle at 46 degrees - compared to focker's 35 degrees at 80%.

Emp, thanks for the effort, I had a good look at the review. However, when I then went to the forum discussion thread about the article, I was linked to a few more reviews. The Arctic Cooling Accelero S1 was found to be even better than the HR-03 GT - and it costs just under 40 dollars including fans.

http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=getarticle&number=16&a...

http://www.abchw.com/node/19

I've recently upped the amount of fans in my case by a lot anyways so there is plenty of airflow. I was also aiming to attach another 92 mm at the back to suck out all the air from whatever cooler I end up mounting, the stock one or another one.

The ambience temperatures are apparently quite low with the Accelero S1 and I've made a air duct on top of the card with a fan attached externally at the back of the case pulling all of the air away from the top of the card. It actually gives me around 4 degrees lower temperatures when I max the fan at the back.

iluvgillgill, I set the speed to 45% and the card overheated during 3dmark06 with 87 degrees.

I'll report back after taking off the stock cooler and putting it back on. Thanks for all the input, you guys are great.

Ok, an update:

I removed the heatsink and using some Arctic Silver 3, I reseated it. I now idle at 60 degrees with the fan on auto (29% fan speed). When I put it to 45%, I idle at 52 degrees, which is a lot more manageable than what I had before, and this is with the card overclocked. Ambient temperatures are 22 degrees.

I'm still considering getting a third party cooler, as I'm simply looking for the best possible cooling solution (with air) and the one I have in mind (The Arctic Cooling Accelero S1) is quite cheap.

Plus, I'm in love with computer fans so the more the merrier =D

I'd try upping the GPU fan speed through a program like rivatuner.

If your at those temps at a 45% speed then a 65% would really help and i'd doubt you even need the extra fan in your comp taking up space. Although I dont have the 8800 card I keep hearing people rave about how cool it stays when fan is around 60% speed.

Here's my advice... if you know how to do it... do a BIOS flash.

I've preprogrammed my cards fan to start at 40% and reach 100% spin speed once the GPU hits 75'c, and continue to cool at that speed until the card drops below 60'c. My card is overclocked to 750 / 1800 / 1000 and is perfectly stable.

This will be a great advantage since your cards fan will only spin up when needed... ok so the original BIOS does a similar trick but only kicks in at a much higher temperature. If you want a stable overclock I suggest flashing the BIOS and make the cards fan's work intelligently alongside the workload.

agreed, this is the way to go, an aftermarket cooler won't help much on the GTS..

I wonder why his card is only have 29% fan on idle? Mine sits around 40ish% and idles are 50C.

Is the BIOS flash an app from the card manufacturer? where do you obtain this at? just curious for future use.

NiBiTor for nvidia cards.

does it allow you to select your own fan threshholds? or is it set?

I have tried three different 8800GTS G92 from XFX, eVGA and BFG. The fan profile of XFX is different from the other two. XFX uses "Automatic Speed" fan profile while the other two use "Dynamic Speed" profile.

Basically, XFX's fan profile is more aggressive than BFG&eVGA. That's why it can achieve lower temperature. But XFX also gives out more noise than the other two due to high RPM of the fan especially at load.

You can hardly hear any noise from eVGA and BFG while at load since their fan remains around 37% duty cycle at around 70 degree C. For XFX, it will run at 100% duty cycle@70 degree C.

You can change these parameters with NiBitor.

I actually like how my XFX is throttled. At idle I can't hear a thing to tell you the truth and my case fans are really quiet. The only time I every hear it is during a game and it kicks on. It has never exceeded 65C so i never gets to that 70C 100% mark. Probably never will either.

Awesome, I'll have a look at NiBitor and report back with the results.

I'm a bit confused about changing the temperature thresholds for the fan speeds using Rivatuner so I'll have a look at this.

A lot of people are down on VGA coolers that don't exhaust heat out the back of the case. It sounds like a logical argument that would make a lot of sense. However, in practice, my Accelero S1 with turbo modules on an overclocked 8800gt in a Cooler Master Elite 330 case idles at 38C and loads at 44C. The Q6600 @ 3.2ghz with a tuniq tower in this same case idles at 28C and loads at 58C with the fan on low. My point is that in a case with good airflow, the heat is going be carried away and low temps on vital components can be achieved without VGA coolers exhausting out the back of the case. Just my observation...

Thats a valid argument. I never noticed an increase in CPU temps, I did on my mobo though. When i went from my old x1900xtx and thermalright cooler tomy GTS my mobo temp went down 5C

After my successful BIOS flash, my idle temps are 61 degrees and it went up to 79 degrees under load. The fan didn't go very loud so I suppose I didn't set it aggressively enough.

The scary thing was that my CPU now reached 67 degrees on one core (65 on the other), something which I've never seen before. Seems like the ambient temps are way too high, there should be a cooler on top of the card too, or something pulling the air out from right above the card.

I think I'll get a third party cooler, this is just getting ridiculous. I have a fan controller which I will just have to turn a switch on to make it from totally noiseless to practically silent (with the right fan and an Accelero S1).

Check out the praise for the S1 here: http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1261100&page=...

I've never gotten too worked up over motherboard temps. Are you talking NB? Or the random sensors some MB manufacturers place on the boards? In any event, I've never really had a MB go bad on account of temps or had performance affected in any way. I'm not arguing that the GTS has a bad cooler by any means, but I just see coolers like the Accelero S1 and Zalman VF series getting knocked for not exhausting out the back of the case. I never really understand where these arguments are coming from as I see fantastic results and silent operation.

I was refering to the NB temp. I know what you mean by exhausting vs non exhausting. I can see if you don't have proper air flow it could be an issue with maybe your CPU, but who know. I still say the GTS stock cooler is much better than the stock GT cooler. I do like the MSI Gt cooler though. I also did not feel like messing with a cooler for my GTS because it really didnt show VAST improvements when overclocking.

If my GTS cooler would work the way that other people's coolers do, I'd be happy. I reckon an Accelero S1 with a few cleverly placed fans would to a good job with exhausting too.

Does a high NB temperature bring anything negative with it anyways? I always hear people freak about high temperatures but I've never had any problems myself. HWMonitor shows me TMP01 and TMP02, I' guessing TMP01 is the Northbridge.

I really doubt it. I have a feeling if you have a higher overclock on the CPU it might hinder you a bit because you are overclocking the bus in order to achieve a higher clock.

articsilver5 paste in itself does a great job! try and just replace the goo on the stock HSF with articsilver5 and see if that doesn't bring the temp down a bit.

I've done some self experimenting with AC5 and I have not seen any proof that AC5 is any better than any other thermal paste. People always report that it helps to remove the stock goo and reapply AC5. However I challenge people to remove their stock grease and just use any good grease other than AC5. I got a large tube of Thermalright paste that game with both my current CPU cooler and my GPU cooler from my old x1900xtx card. I've gone between this and a little tube of AC5 that I had and There has never been any change in idle or load temps on my CPU or old GPU. It was the EXACT same.

My thought is from the factory they use either a machine to place a glob in the middle and the pressure itself to spread it around. Or they use pre-made pads that melt in place. Removing and uniformly spreading any decent paste on the contact surface will work better.

doubletake33: I did already, I was mistaken when I said that I used Arctic Silver 3, it's Arctic Silver 5.

jay2tall: The stock thermal conducting is undertaken by horrible thermal pads.

Also, whilst I am overclocking the BUS, my overclock isn't anything spectacular when comparing to others so it shouldn't hinder me much.

I fried my motherboard two days ago so I'll look for another motherboard, hopefully with more clearance to the CPU. The DS3R puts the GPU and NB too close to the CPU in my opinion, there just isn't room for any heat to leave the area. This is assuming that my hardware shop is willing to let me upgrade to a better motherboard.

i think thr AS5 would do better if its on a metal surface on both side.but gps is the bare chip that the heatsink is seat on.but on cpu is different since its got a heatspreader.

here is my 2 cents on this...the faster the fan is going, the lower the idle temp. the faster the fan is going the harder it is for the temperature to peak. also i've found that after 80% fan speed the temperature decrease versus noise factor is not worth it. so, you can download rivatuner and play with a fan profile like this.

< 64 trending down = fan @ 40% speed, give mes idle temp of about 61
> 66 trending up = fan@ 80%, gives me peak temp of 75

my oc settings are 750 gpa, 1050 ram...

i've been wondering about flashing the bios but i hven't seen a tutorial or step by step...whatever works in riva tuner should work as bios mod... then no software to load to get it done, that's the part i like.


sorry for the reply a year late...found this post while looking into nibitor