I can get a case with a 500W PSU for only $90! Im running only one vid card and the E8400 is pretty effecient, right? Also just one 250gb hard drive and a 500gb external through USB. But at the same time I want to overclock my E8400 to a nice safe level.
There are reasons why case w/ PSUs are cheap. Top on the list is that the PSU sux.
In case I didn't mention it the PSU sux.
Spend the extra money on a good PSU like Corsair VX series or something made by FSP (Fortron Source) which are relatively inexpensive. Antec sells some decent PSUs, but their quality has been slipping (IMO).
I can think of other good PSU brands, but they are a little more expensive.
Now I must decide on a case and power supply. I am under a super budget. Are there any power supplies and cases you could suggest that together are $90-$130? I know thats a tight budget but Im strapped for cash and if I would see better value out of paying a bit more just tell me and include why since I am interested in learning.
I really need your expertise because power supplies are where I am most confused.
Try thinking of it this way. A case by itself will cost at least $60, probably more, with good cases costing a lot more. Now if the case costs $90 with a PSU, and a bare case costs at least $60, then the PSU can only be a $30 PSU at best. You won't find a good PSU for $30. Look to the tier listings for recommended PSUs, or jonnyguru.com. Don't trust your nice new hardware to a cheap PSU, unless you like throwing away money.
I think that power supply should be acceptable based on average ratings in reviews. Best to think of it as a 430w PSU. BigBruin review Ultra XVS 600 Techgage review Ultra XVS 600
Ultra has a bad reputation but if that specific power supply is the one you linked it's probably going to get the job done.
I personally disagree with some of the other folks. I've had ultra power supplies before and the ones I had seemed to be decent units. They may not be the flashiest and do everything, but they did seem to be a decent product. However, if you start overclocking and trying to run SLI and a lot of tasks that will place a lot of strain on it, then you may want to replace it, but it should do for a while at least if your running the system at stock.
I would jamb my computer parts into a wood box rather than buy a cheap PSU.
PCPower 470watt silencer for a psu.
The case is ok, but the ultra 500 watt psu that comes with it is crap.
Ultra has like 2 good PSU's one is the 800 Watt and the other the 1000KW.
Most of the other ultra PSU's are at the bottom of the tier.
Buy the case, sell the PSU on eBay for $45 and get a good PSU, look at the PSU sticky.
If your PSU was a PC Power & Cooling PSU then a "Turbo 510" would be about the same as a OCZ 700.
Any "Ultra" brand is 100% crap and asking for your parts to be fried.
I base that off of using Ultra 500's and had them fail in under 24 hours of burn-in build testings 6 years ago.
They might make a better product now...but I will never use them to find out if it is so.
Many sub $100 USD PSU's are good...but if you OC or just care about the investment that is attached to your PSU I only recomend PC Power & Cooling.
They also sell dirrect for the same price as any online shop.
OCZ may be a "partner" with them but any OCZ PSU is -not- near a PC Power & Cooling PSU.
Silverstone PSU's come close to PC P&C....but still not as good under 100% load on a scope.
The PSU OC'ers use is as much a part as the MB they use...and DFI alawys wins out in the MB department.
Themalright makes the best air coolers,Silverstone makes the best fans and old school Silicon Grease based TIM works basicly the same as Artic Silver does and without the issues it brings with it.
See my profile with 50% OC on air with all stock volts.
The parts you use do matter.
Buy a decent PSU and a dirt cheap case.
Increase the cooling with a combination of drill, jigsaw, dremel, or whatever else you have lying around; and fans!
My next case mod will involve a really long pipe from a tumble dryer and a couple of fans so that i can suck in cold air from outside! (Damned Pentium D!)
Now your talking.
Use of "tools" to remove a case's exit fan grill can boost airflow over 80% and do so for free...even with many years old case's....or even todays newest.
Any exit grill suffers the "air dam effect".
The PC P&C 610 is only $109 dirrect from them right now. Newegg had the same price as well.
A fantastic PSU for the price for any OC'er or general user.
Constant 100% 12 volt amp output is above most 800 watt PSU units surge rateings.
Modular is for Jhoney + Suzzy builders who car about looks or follow reviews.
Real builders and OC'ers know better than to use modular PSU's becuase of the fualts/issues they bring with them.
Never had any problems with my modular ones, so I'll stay in that camp!
What sort of mess are the cables going to be like out the back of a non-modular 850W PSU?
I don't care how my PC looks inside, I don't have a clear side window etc. I care what comes out to the monitor, how noisy it is and how cool it is. Modular aides the last two, as it creates better airflow (not having a big bundle of unused cables) which in turn lets fans turn down a notch. What's not to like about that?
What exactly is a "Jhoney + Suzzy builder"? I'm not an OCer (which seemingly makes me a non-enthusiast on here! ) so I guess I'm a "pretend" builder then...
When comparing my PC P&C 750wt to my TT Toughpower 700wt and TT Toughpower 850wt, I find that all do the job very well. The Toughpowers are modular, which means no unused cables to tuck away and possible causes of airflow problems, but better yet for me is that their larger fan is a lot quieter. There is surely a difference between good quality modular PSUs and poor ones, though, and that should be kept in mind. If you check out the reviews of a PC P&C 750wt and a Toughpower 750wt at jonnyguru.com, he rates it as equal to the PC P&C, so there is a non-biased opinion worth considering.
I like to stick with PCP&C, but I think the modular PSUs (especially the TTs) have gotten a worse rap than they should have. I think a lot of the issues are end-user error with cables not fully plugged in, and/or being forced into the wrong ports.