As you can see from the title, my CPU isn't particularly happy. Of course, this isn't the worst I've had. On the stock cooler it was having, on rare occasions, 94C at low load. That was during a very hot day during the summer of course. Over the winter the cores have been in the 40's mostly (sometimes 38) so I wasn't too worried. But now the hot weather is coming back around and things are looking a little grim to me.
I've thankfully gotten it down to a slightly better temperature via speedstep (52-55C), albeit at the cost of a downclock to 1.6Ghz. Any thoughts on what the issue is or what I can do to fix it? I'm at the point where I'm considering grabbing a new case and liquid cooling, though I've only had the system built since last August. Is that the best choice or is there something I else I can do?
First thing I would do is check how flat the heatspreader is!
Easy way is to hold your CPU flat, and hold a razor or stanley blade on it and hold it up to a light source... something like this.
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First thing I would do is check how flat the heatspreader is! Easy way is to hold your CPU flat, and hold a razor or stanley blade on it and hold it up to a light source... something like this.
I'm using the TIM that came with the heatsink. It doesn't have a particularly descriptive label. xD Just Zalman's default stuff seemingly. No I didn't use the line, I had followed the manual and used the pea sized drop + spread with credit card, which in hindsight probably wasn't the best way to do it. This is my first custom build, so when I put on the CPU last summer, I didn't exactly know all the technicalities I know now.
If the spreader isn't as flat as it should be, is there any other solution besides either trying to cool it anyway or getting a new CPU?
Sounds like the heatsink isnt making proper contact, or the TIM is fubar. Try reset the sink. Those temps are MAD.
My B3 now @ 3Ghz with a single 120mm rad and 800 rpm fan reaches ~55c after an hour full throttle.
Also as said, go into bios and check ur Vcore. On 2.4Ghz u SHOULD be able to run as low as 1.15v without hassle.
At 2.4GHz it's running at 1.313V. With speedstep when it clocks down (again to 1.6GHz) it's at 1.163V. Those were both CPU-Z readings. The BIOS reports 1.26V at boot. Either way it looks like I have room to turn it down. My question now is: how? >_< Having these temps, I've been very careful not to touch anything that could make it worse if I did something wrong, so I'm not entirely sure how to drop the voltages.
Go to your BIOS and look for the Overclocking utility and lower the voltage to 1.2 or 1.15. Then boot and test for stability.
I would also reseat the HSF and TIM. If you want to get into extreme measures you can, I forgot what its called but basically you sand your HSF till its shiny and if need be the CPU ISF as well but remember warranty = void when you do that.
I just remembered the name. Lap. Lapping is what its called. Silly me.
Message edited by jimmysmitty on 05-20-2008 at 11:35:12 PM
The core voltages are confusing me slightly. I dropped it down to say, 1.24V, but on the reboot the BIOS reports a bit over 1.2V, and once the OS/speedstep kick in the voltages are back to the normal 1.16/1.31. Should I turn off speedstep to force the voltages down? And why is there a discrepancy between the BIOS settings and the BIOS reports?
Not getting any noticeable temp drops, but that could be the speedstep seemingly overriding the new voltages. Plus if the HS is seated bad I'm not sure you could tell anyways.
Message edited by Ballistaman on 05-21-2008 at 02:42:56 AM
Big temps like that are far more likely to be a physical fault rather than electrical.
As said, check the hsf and thermal compound. If u dont really know what ur doing get a friend whos in the know to help out.
Once ur in the ballpark of normal temps u can do things like lap the cpu (sand it flat), and play with voltages etc. Each of these will only make a few degrees change at best.
Check the 120mm fan at the back is blowing air out?? Please check that first.
Internal cables look tidy ... which is a good start ... loom any up that are blocking air moving inside.
Remove the mesh (cut it away) from the rear of the case behind the rear fan to increase airflow.
That steel grille on the inside of the 120 can then be put on the back of the case.
With the side cover off the front fans serve no purpose ... so leave it on ... but make sure these are not restricted either ... remover the mesh steel grill in front of them as per the above.
When front fans have plastic covers in front of them they are also not able to draw air efficiently either.
Flashy cases that are poorly designed for bringing air into the PC components are unfortunately all too common.
Bling vs basic thermal principles ... bling wins mostly from a marketing perspective.
Bling is for n00bs.
A quad needs maximum airflow.
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Here's a pic from a number of months ago. Haven't touched the HSF since I first put it on.
BTW normally I keep the front door open so that the 2 front intakes can actually breathe. The door was closed here for looks.
Hmmmm..
Heh.. I can't tell you how many times people say what they have installed.... and then someone asks to see a pic of it, and the HS is not install properly. But in your case, it looks right.
Ya.. too bad the front case door does more for looks then airflow.
I notice you have a top fan, is it being used as an intake or exhaust? I would imagine, it would help the Zalman, if it was used as an intake. As an exhaust, even though heat goes up, then what is passing up to the Zalman would be heated air.
Just my 2 cents.
If you were to change out the case, perhaps the Antech 1200 on the expensive side, or a cool master 590/690 on the cheapers side.
Maybe installed the right direction, but probably not installed properly.
I have a top vent for a fan, though there's no fan in it at the moment. The power supply (the top bright blue spot) is a quarter of an inch too long or so. Once I get some more fan I'll probably cut one down a little so that I can at least fit something up there.
The PSU fan you see there is an intake by the way. The exhaust for the power supply is directly behind it on the outside of the case.
So I should put an intake up there in the top vent (albeit one that's slightly less effective)? What about that side vent, intake as well?
"but probably not installed properly. " . o O (well you said not me.)
Heh, ya.. thats a normal design for most PSU, bottom fan is intake, rear (if there's a fan there) for exhaust. At least all the PSU I have are that way.
Dang.. so the PSU is preventing you to install a top fan?
Not sure if you could fit a fan on the (window) side case, but then if it hinders the airflow with the Zalmans design. I would think the top fan would help push cooler air that the Zalman could take in quicker.
I did that for my Cool Master 590 ($65@newegg), even though it suppose to be a top exhaust:
Although it wouldn't hurt to try/experiment, to figure out what could work better.
. o O (well you said not me.)
