...well I can't order because while I was debating, NewEgg had stock on the CPU and memory and now don't. Oyyyyyyyyyyyy.
Givens:
1) I don't care about SLI
2) I want stability first and foremost (who doesn't?)
3) I've never overclocked but know the processor can so that and my GPU are what I want to OC
4) I really want X38 but can't find a good enough solid board and DDR3 memory unless you guys recommend a combo...please?
Otherwise I'll use this and once the DDR3 settles and BIOS for X38 becomes more stable, I'll ditch the mobo and memory (keep for emergency) and basically wasted $230 but not the end of the world.
Thoughts?
Oh yeah, I heard the LITE-ON opticals can be noisy? Better choice?
Heh I was looking at that board actually. When I first looked at it, it was out of stock.
I don't mind ASUS boards (not that I used them ever) but I hate how I pay extra for WiFi and a soundcard I won't use (at least on the X38/DDR3 model I was looking at).
I think this might fit my bill, especially since the very last person to comment on it is using mostly what I planned on using (Other Thoughts: This is the first computer I have built. Using E8400 @ 3.75GHz, 4Gb (2*2Gb) 1066MHz GSkill RAM, EVGA 8800 GTS, OCZ 700W PSU, 150 Gb raptor HD)
BTW both memory and CPU still show 4/28 as dates they expect them back in But I've seen it change from hour to hour so I'll keep checking. I don't want to order one item while waiting a week on another when I have 30 days ticking...
Someone in another thread posted these two as possibly being good combo's for growth and OC options:
Both CPU and memory are in stock on my screen. Try refreshing the page or clearing your cache.
If you're only doing moderate overclocking, you could go with the the 800MHz version of the ram. Should take you to at least 3.6GHz on the E8400 easily given you don't get any lemon parts, and to 4.0GHz if you overclock them to 445-ish FSB. Not bad for half the price...
Edit: Forgot to mention... you could save some money by dropping to the 610W version of the PSU. It'll be more than enough to power your system, especially since you're not going SLI.
Message edited by oushi on 04-22-2008 at 10:42:08 PM
@OP: Be careful with RAM higher than DDR2 800. Many users have reported (including me, actually did a test with a friend on P35-DS3L;DS4;DS3R (old version with out EP and stuff)) with RAM natively higher than DDR2 800. I recommend you get DDR2 800.
Shadow, I've heard about being careful of DDR2 higher than 800 but then the reviews on that RAM all seem so sexy that I would assume more people have issues with it.
Also, since I don't want to OC the RAM but rather just the processor (seems easier and more stable), its my understanding that the ram they sell at 1066 could just be better, more stable 800's?
This way I can buy the 1066 and not worry about OCing at all.
Shadow, I've heard about being careful of DDR2 higher than 800 but then the reviews on that RAM all seem so sexy that I would assume more people have issues with it.
Also, since I don't want to OC the RAM but rather just the processor (seems easier and more stable), its my understanding that the ram they sell at 1066 could just be better, more stable 800's?
This way I can buy the 1066 and not worry about OCing at all.
Does this make sense?
Not true. The 1066 RAM is just factory OCed DDR2 800 RAM (90% of the time). You can set RAM at 1:1 (SPD 2) with out OCing RAM until FSB 400.
I'd just get DDR2-800 at the lowest timings you can (4-4-4-12) and OC the E8400 to 3.6Ghz, that keeps a 1:1 with the memory and should be fast enough that you wont need to worry about OCing the memory to OC the processor more. If you're mostly playing games as opposed to encoding video and things like that, you won't notice any difference after 3.6Ghz, and probably more realistically you wouldn't notice any difference if you OC beyond somewhere around 3.2Ghz. Things will depend much more on the video card and your screen resolution at that point.