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GA-P35-DS3R will not OC to 3.0?

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January 15, 2009 11:59:37 PM

I'm trying my best to orchestrate my first responsible OC.
I read Grayskys OC guide and prepared accordingly. I have Everest, CPU-Z, and prime95 ready to roll. My bios is updated and I have brand new memory and a new cpu cooler and fans. But, I can't even get past the real first step. When I try to boost it up to a conservative 300, it won't post. Here is my rig:

Ga-P35-DS3R Rev 1.0
E6600 (@2.4 stock 9X267)
G.Skill F2-6400CL4D-4GBPI-B (2x2Gbs=4 total, Manual timings @4-4-4-12 and auto for 1.8-1.9V)
Windows XP SP3
EVGA 8800 GTS 640
Zalman 9700 NT cpu cooler
5 Scythe Flex Fans

Update: I figured out that the memory multiplier on my bios needed some tweaking. I changed it from auto to 2.4 and my FSB to 333 and it equaled 3.0 mhz or 800=800. It booted right up. I'll stress test it when I get a chance. I'm still not sure I'm running a synchronous 1:1. Everest says I am running 12:10. I'm not certain how to get to 1:1 if I matched it up at 800:800 and it doesn't equal 1:1. Could someone enlighten me?

More about : p35 ds3r

January 16, 2009 12:31:35 PM

you are runnning now good settings.
As you noticed later on automatic RAM settings if you go up with FSB your RAM Overclocks automaticly 3.0 Ghz 333x9 will give you 333x4=1332 Mhz RAM,i'm sure this ram cant support it^^ thats why it couldn't POST

after applying 2.4 multiplier you ended up with 333x2.4=800 mhz its DDR2 so you devide it by 2 and get 400 mhz each module

now you are running 6/5 (12/10 same) asynchronous FSB333x6/5=400 mhz each module speed

to run 1/1 and get to 400 mhz each module wich means 800 mhz ddr2 combined you need:

FSB x1/1=400MHZ (FSB is unknown) wich means FSB=400 MHZ

conclusion is you need 400 mhz FSB to run 1:1 400 mhz each module combined 400x2=800 mhz DDR2 RAM

so 1:1 is multiplyer 2

hope i explained it ok ^^ understand this simple mathematics you will never have any further problems


January 16, 2009 3:30:09 PM

Thanks. I think I've got the math down now. But, the results are a bit troubling. If I crank my FSB up to 400 Mhz and set the mem multiplier at 2, then this means I'm running my cpu at 3.6. Right? I'm not sure I want to be that aggressive with my OC. Isn't that asking a bit much from a e6600? I'm not sure I really understand the mem multiplier choices in my bios either. There are several choices on this setting but the lowest is 2.0 and the next step up is 2.4. Most of the choices are higher numbers and there is a note on strapping for different systems like 800 and 1066. What does that mean? Regardless, this kinda limits the OC. I've got a great air cooling setup in my case so heat has not been an issue as of yet. Still, I do not want to throttle my cpu. The only other variable in the equation is the choice to go from 6x through 9x. Altering this number significantly lowers my cpu clock. I've also read that keeping it a 9x lowers the stress on the Mobo. I would like to keep this OC within the conservative range with an emphasis more on longevity than any short term "max it out" philosophy. This leads me to the following questions: How important is synchonous mode? How important is having 9X on my cpu? What is a conservative OC for my system considering my components? My Mobo and RAM are good OC'ers. It looks like considerations for my cpu is what is going to limit my overall OC. That's fine with me. The end result I'm looking for is to fine tune my settings to get my rig running at optimum levels without burning anything up. A cpu clock speed of 3.6 worries me for a stock seting of 2.4. Is that just a noob concern?
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January 16, 2009 3:50:01 PM

The setting 6X - 9X is your CPU multiplier. It has nothing to do with stressing your mobo. If you want to run your memory at 1:1. You have to set your FSB to 400 is you have DDR2 800mhz ram. Your FSB X CPU Multiplier = your clock speed. So if you set that multiplier to 6X, you'll run your cpu at the stock clock speed of 2.4ghz. It might perform differently though than the 9X267 settings, probably for the better as long as your Mobo can support fast FSB settings, which your board definitly can because I own the UD3P which is the same board with an additional PCIEX16 slot.

With this board, you can set the multiplier in .5 increments as well. If I were you I would set it to 7.5 with a FSB of 400. This will get your 3.0ghz you wanted, as well as having your RAM run at 1:1.

As far as your other questions. I think 3.0 is a safe OC. It's not the top end, but your looking for a balence between performance and longevity, and 3.0 is a great mark.

Once this I also recommend is changing the CPU Clock Skew from 700 to 800. You can google the term if you want to learn more about it, but once I had my OC where I wanted it, It was stable for 8 hours but I couldn't hit the 12 hour mark on prime. Tweaking this setting allowed me to run Prime for over 24 hours after that I just stopped it.
January 16, 2009 7:26:31 PM

Thanks for the info. Are you sure that we essentially have the same board? I looked in my BIOS for a CPU Clock Skew and cannot find it. Where is it? Also, I'm starting to grasp the numbers in this equation and have played around with it a bit. I should add that in my BIOS, I can only enter in whole numbers in my clock ratios. It would not take 7.5. The three key settings in my BIOS are:

1. Clock Ratio (6x, 7x, 8x, 9x)
2. CPU Host Memory Frequency (any number)
3. System Memory Multiplier (Auto, 2.0, 2.4, 2.5, various other higher #'s)

Currently, I have it set on Clock Ratio=7x
CPU Mem Fr=400
Sys Mem x=2
Clock speed=2.8 & 800=800

Two options are Clock Ratio=9x or 8x
CPU Mem Fr=333 or 400
Sys Mem x=2.4 or 2
=3.0 & 800=800 or =3.2 & 800=800

If I understand you correctly, the clock ratio is not that important to have it on 9x. It is more important to reach synchronous mode with a FSB of 400 Mhz. My Mobo will run that and my mem is 6400. I can't really hit 3.0 with my Mobo and still be at FSB 400 mhz. I can choose between 2.8 or 3.2 with a FSB 400. I think 3.2 is pushing it a bit. I could be wrong. If I lower the FSB to 333 and raise the mem multiplier to 2.4 I can hit 3.0. But, I'm no longer at the 400 mark. Now that you know what I am specifically working with, do you have any thoughts? Does anyone? Also, where is that darn Skew? Thanks!
January 16, 2009 11:33:52 PM

in order to get your ratio to 1:1 your fsb would have to equal your memory speed i.e. fsb = 333 memory = 333 (ddr2 667). you have your fsb at 333 but your memory speed is at 400 (ddr2 800).
January 17, 2009 3:39:50 AM

First of all you should OC CPU by bumping FSB and trying to keep your Memory speeds as close as possible to the stock 800 mhz.
Only after that you end up with stable CPU overclock you should starting overclocking your RAM do this apart otherwise you can hurt your stability and in the worst case burn something.

I have Q6600 c2q similar to your core 2 duo e6600 brother and p35 ds3l board similar to your board(the Bios settigs are the same)

Fist of all i found the lowest voltage that my Q6600 could be stable(passed 18+ hours prime test)

i used FSB 360x9=3.2 and i kept my RAM downclocked as close as possible to stock 360x2=720 mhz (800 stock) if i used then 360x2.4 or 360x2.5 i would end up with overclocking CPU and RAM same time

after a stable CPU overclock i bumped my RAM from 360x2 to 360x2.5 ended up with 900 mhz(12.5% OC) ran Memtest+86 for 3-4 hours didnt have any errors and stressed the new setup with prime (blend) for 24 more hours
then ran bunch of benchmarks

only after that i'm 100% sure my overclock is stable

my point is try to overclock step by step little by little RAM and CPU apart one after another for long term stable oveclock

some people say 400 mhz FSB and lower multiplyer(400x8) is more perfomannce then 360x9 maybe but 1 thing sure 360x9 is more safe and more stable (less overvoltaging) for my Q6600 p35ds3l combination

i recommend you 333x9 make sure its stable with 333x2.4~800 mhz RAM

then move on to 3.2(360x9) with ram downclocked (360x2) find your stability then overclock the RAM




January 17, 2009 7:32:58 AM

I understand the philosophy behind what you are saying and agree with a more conservative approach. But, I am getting more confused about the importance of running in synchronous mode. You are not placing much importance on that...right? Also, when I place the FSB at 400 and put the multiplier at x2, isn't that running my RAM at stock speeds? Am I unaware that I am OC'ing my RAM with this setting?

Second, since we have the same BIOS (F12) and the same type of Mobo, do you see anything in the BIOS about Clock Skew? I can't find it.

Finally, you said to start your OC with finding the lowest voltage my cpu can run stable on. Does that mean you lower your voltage without a OC and figure it out that way? I have my voltage set on Auto right now and with my current settings of 400, x7, and x2.0, it says I'm running at 1.39-1.41 v's. Would it be cheating to just lower my v's to say 1.3 and work up from there with Prime? I guess this answer depends on what you think about my current settings and synchronous mode. If it helps, with my current settings I have yet to have any sort of heat concerns. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind doing this the long and painful way at all. But, I thought getting your numbers to 1:1 was pretty important. Obviously, I'm getting a bit confused.
January 17, 2009 9:25:15 AM

no i didnt see but in GA-P35-XXX boards you have something called Static tREAD value improves stability with 400 and more FSB it has to be 8 or more(press cntrl+F1 when you enter Bios)

400 FSB 1:1 its stock not overclocked at all


if you run 2.8 stable 800 mhz and its stable and cool and it suits your needs its good bro^^

no 1:1 is not important stability is what important how much can you push it and keep it stable and cool
January 17, 2009 6:00:05 PM

Thanks man....that clears it up a bit for me to proceed. Now that I *think* my settings are stable and cool, I need to start manually configuring the power. I'm not sure where to start on this process. I assume that it is better to start lowering my v's from the auto setting to a fixed setting. My auto setting runs my cpu core voltage anywhere from 1.35 to 1.41. Should I just start at something below 1.35 and work my way down? Also, since you are familiar with my Bios, do you run any of the gravy settings like: Robust Graphic Booster (Auto), CIA2(Disabled), or Performance Enhance(Standard) after you get a stable OC? Finally, I think we might have different versions of Bios. I have F12. On my main MIT screen, I have "Advanced Timing Controls." The advanced timing controls are as follows with my settings. I have all of these on auto but it does list what the auto setting are.
ACT to ACT Delay(tRRD)=3
Rank Write to READ Delay=3
Write to Precharge Delay=6
Refresh to ACT Delay=52
Read to Precharge Delay=3
Static tRead Value=7
Static tRead Phase Adjust=0

I assume you were talking about Static tRead Value. I need to change it to 8? How did you find out about that? Can you direct me to a source that tells me what all of this is? I know how some of the regs here hate it when people just ask for the bottom line answers without trying to figure it out first. How does one find out what the best settings are for their particular situation? Thanks bro!
January 17, 2009 7:48:19 PM

That's funny. I already have both of these threads bookmarked and have been working almost exclusively off of them. It does seem odd that my Static tRead Values are initially so low(7). The thread tells us that "Standard" setting starts at 11. I'm set at one above "Turbo" without any adjustments and a "auto" setting. What did yours come in at initially with the auto setting? I guess I'm already optimized? Odd. If my standard setting is at 7, turbo and extreme must be an insane low number. Why would my bios have such a low setting? Any ideas? I guess you can see why I have questions about these advanced timings. My numbers do not match anyone else's that has posted a guide. It's like my board is already set up for a serious OC. Do you think it is my Bios version (F12) that is the reason why? Also, he covers one out of seven of the advanced timings. What about the other six? Are they not important? It's ironic, the more I learn, the more questions I have. I guess that is Yoda talk...lol.


Also, from reading this guide and several others on other sites, there seems to be a debate about FSB's. Some say 400. Some say 333. I guess if you are going to run a 333 then you have to accept that it will not be synchronous. At least, for my rig I can't match them up at that speed(800). It would be nice for someone to post a guide as to the relative importance of the Clock Ratio vs. the Cpu host Frequency. Considering that I have found stability with different settings, is it better to have a higher FSB or a higher clock ratio? I cannot find any discussion that says which one is more important to optimizing performance. If anything, I have found numerous discussions on how everyone does not agree which is more important. I guess that's not really a question but if you have any thoughts assuming stabilty at both settings, I'd love to hear them. The first paragraph has the most important questions from this post. Thanks for the help...I mean it.

January 17, 2009 8:46:31 PM

wow all of that sounds pretty complicated , im running 3.2ghz the cpu multiplier set at 9 the the fsb is 356, and the system memory is set @2.0 running 715mhz on 800mhz memory and it runs fine, i didnt screw with the voltage, not that brave yet.
January 18, 2009 4:48:15 AM

the idea is that every chip reacts differently me and reconviperone found stability on lower FSB higher multiplier your chip reacts differently ^^
ok i will do 400 fsb x 6 2.4 and 256x 9=2.4 comparison for you i never wanted to test it anyways now you got me intrested i will post pc mark results along with Super PI results maybe ppl can suggest what benchmarks to use more


Q6600 2.4 266x9 DDR2 800 2:3




the lowest Vcore i needed to run stable prime and benchmarks is 1.125 all settings to auto

Q6600 2.4 400x6 DDR2 800 1:1



the lowest Vcore i needed with 400 fsb is 1.30625,FSB overvoltage +2 otherwise couldn't even log on to windows

results:






266x9 SuperPI 32m 20min 56 sec
400x6 SUperPI 32m 20min 32 sec

266x9 PCMark05 CPU:7666 Memory:5196
400x6 PCMark05 CPU:7669 Memory:5554

Everest:
266x9 CPU Qeen:17269 Memory Read:6449 mb/s Write:4860 mb/s Latency:75.6 ns

400x6 CPU Qeen:17276 Memory Read:7132 mb/s Write:6355 mb/s Latency:71.9 ns

faster 400 fsb with 1:1 settings has better performance specialy in memory type benchmarks but i had to use alot more voltage 1.30625 compared to 1.125 on 266 FSB wich ofc was translated to higher Temps hotest Core with 266 fsb was 43c and with 400 fsb 54c its 11c difference and its alot for little performance improvment that 400 fsb offers so for me to run 3.2 with 400x8 it just would be too hot but ppl with Water cooling and better coolers than me would benefit from 400 fsb more then me as i prefer to run lower fsb higher multiplier combination for better thermal performance
January 18, 2009 11:51:05 AM

Its amazing How he posts the exact Title as me and i got no responses -.-,

I have a The same mobo, the bios update is stupid @ 2007 FABETA is the max lolz they havnt even changed it off beta since the turn of the ice-age , this completely annoyed me as my ram would pick up correctly tho i have now got mine @

E4600 3.0 250x12 DDR2 1000 1:2

And with a Artic cooler Extreme , i found this mobo to give unbleaveable power saving options but for overclocking it was a F**kshaft.

CTL+F1 to get into the speacial bios menu, When i get my system to 3.0GHZ it runs fine with memory @ 1000MHZ tho i have got 1066 Rated memory, When i followd a guide on tomhardware i figured out that it wasnt posting due to my Vcore so low, so after a message war with a friend on tomshardware he showed my his CPUZ detail and told me to switch off all power saving items in the bios ie C1e TM2 Smart FAN, So i did and this is what i did,

E4600 3.2 266x12 DDR2 1066 1:2 FSB voltage normal MCH voltage normal PCI-E Voltage Normal , Vcore @ 1.425 (original was 1.325)
pcie @ 100MHZ - pci @ 33MHZ
Now the pc will boot into windows but after i start anything like Orthous Cpu stress tests the temp will jump in incredments of 4 i stop test @ 59temp as was worried in heat killing my cpu , i remounted the artic cooler extremem for the 2nd time, now in the reveiws 99% of peeps with me cpu got it to 3.0 on stock and also to 3.20 on stock but i got a nice cpu cooler for Xmas and on stock idel = 15c and 35 max load, so i think its voltage. Can anyone suggest what ive done wroung?

I was wondering also if i just took the mutiplier down from x12 to x11 ie from 3.20ghz @ 11 it drops to 2.90GHZ but memory stays @ 1066. would this make it stable?
January 18, 2009 2:12:03 PM

1.425 for 3.2 is too much and 59 is ok as long as you dont get to 75 only then you might damage it
January 18, 2009 4:26:32 PM

MDMA~Now that's what I'm talking about! You can see my dilemma. Graysky did post in his guide that lower multipliers + faster FSB might provide better synthetic marks but real world gains are minimal. I'm having a hard time reconciling that statement. Since I started this thread, I have been stress testing different numbers on Prime95 to see if I'm hitting any walls. I haven't had an issue so far. And, my temps are pretty much staying within the 38-47 C range on all setups. Previous to this thread, I burned up some memory due to some irresponsible OC'ing and pretty much not knowing what I was doing. I was using the CIA2 and other cheat settings to get my OC. Also, I didn't have a decent cooling system for my rig. I replaced my stock cooler with a Zalman 9700 NT and added a 120mm Scythe fan in my 5.25 bay. I also added an additional 80mm Scythe exhaust fan to keep the air moving. Finally, I lifted an old cpu cooler from a Dell rig and zip-tied it around my northbridge to get some dedicated cooling. It might be overkill for a Duo but I'd rather err on this side than the other. The bottom line is that I have a very effective air cooling setup in my rig. I'm going to have to really push my OC to get to any real heat issues. Currently, I have no plans to do anything like that. I'm just trying to get something around 2.8-3.0 with the best possible FSB and multiplier. At this point, heat doesn't seem to be an issue with my rig. The dilemma in all of this is that if someone who knows a lot more about OC'ing than me says that synthetic scores do not apply to real world gains, how am I to know when I have my rig optimized? All I can do is test it "synthetically." I can run my rig with a regular OC (9x, 333, 1:1, 3.0 MHz) or I can lower the multiplier and raise the FSB. From your data, it looks like the latter is actually faster than the former but heat concerns are the big kicker. Perhaps I need to do some extensive torture testing to see if my temps ever get to the 50 C range. As of yet, I'm topping out at 47 C. Since I'm not pushing anything, I don't think heat will be an issue. And, my dedicated Northbridge cooler gives me some latitude with higher FSB settings. This might be a situation where I'm never really going to know which setting is more effective. If I can't use synthetic tests to find out, what do you do? That's why I'm here pleading for the masters of OC'ing to intervene. Your information and guidance has been invaluable in the process. Since I've started this project, my understanding of OC'ing has gone from dangerous to semi-capable. I started out not being able to get to 3.0 and now I can't decide which 3.0 is better. That's a good problem to have. I appreciate your help. By the way, what do you use to cool your rig? Do you use a dedicated Northbridge fan? Thanks.
January 18, 2009 6:31:41 PM

See when i overclocked to 3.20 ram @ 1066 with a fsb ratio @ 1.2 my idle heat = 15c to 20c but when i ran the othos Priorty 9 small fft test after just 8 mins when i arrived bk into the room my cpu was hitting 51 so i crapped a log as i didnt no if this was what it was ment to do as i never used the program , my friend told me on tomshardware to dl'ed it and do a prioity 9 level small FFT, i cant see why heat is mad like thats as i got 160 watt cpu artic freezer extreme and everyone got to 3.2GHZ easy on stock without raising the Vcore to much , ill link you to the last reveiw page so you know where i stand and why im confused- now i do know something about overclocking but in the past it was easy for me as i was AMD and had black editions cpus which just requiered a simple mutipler raise with a no voltage fart about thats why i got this cpu as it had a x12 mutiplier yet did i know it was already on that @ first start. Maybe i read something wroung as im dislexic, tho i still cant understand it. At stock my cpu = @ 1.325V my kinston hiperX ram is 2.0-2.1 (gigabyte mobo places it @ 1.8 default so i oviously changed that to 2.0)
Here is the Reveiw page i was on about- its near the bottom yet his bios ant gigabyte and ofc he is using crap ram.
http://www.legionhardware.com/document.php?id=700&p=1

Care to help me boys?
January 18, 2009 8:29:04 PM

Sorry bensheriff...I'm learning as I go. As for my current status, I'm Prime95 stress testing my current settings of 9x333+2.4mm=3.0, 1:1. I figured I should see how my rig runs under a 9x before I start maxing the FSB and lowering the x'er. So far so good. Prime95 has been running for 16 hours without any issues. My Mobo temps hover around 36-38C. My CPU temps run around 41-46C. Core #1 and Core #2 ranges in between 43-44C. My core voltage is set on auto @ 1.376. It only goes up to 1.41 when I stop testing and the cpu is idle. I don't really understand that but it is what it is. As for my RAM, I have the v's set on auto. My RAM is G.Skill's F2-6400CL4D-4GBPI-B. It is supposed to run at 1.8-1.9 so no increase was needed. Memtest passed so that's all good. I concerned about one thing though. On CPU-Z under the SPD tab, I'm not sure which column is the actual setting. I assume that it is the EPP#1. That matched my manual settings and tells my my v's are at 1.9. But, on my Everest HE, the Sensor screen says my DIMM is at 2.06 v's. But, I click on my Mobo and SPD and it says my voltage is 1.9. I'm a little confused. What's the difference? Also, do my temps look good for what my OC is? Should I push on or stick with what I've got?
January 19, 2009 7:45:41 PM

you can run stable 333x9 and 800 RAM 333x2.4 np bcz you have great airflow inside you PC around 50 c at max load with prime is excelent with this temps you can easy get to 3.2 360x9 or 400x8 under 70 c max load temps if you go 3.2 400x8 there you will need to 1:1 to run stock 800 mhz RAM

just stress it with Gaming and run Fraps you will see the differences with different setups this what i do ^^

ye i use Cooler Master Blue Ice

http://www.coolermaster.com/products/product.php?langua...
January 20, 2009 3:14:05 AM

Thanks for the help! I feel like I've got a handle on all of this and can proceed with my tweaking from this point on. You been a great help. Here is the secret to my great airflow:




I'm not real skilled at adding pictures here but here it is. When I installed my Zalman 9700 NT, I had to remove my side fan and place it on the exterior. Currently, it sits about one inch above(or to the side of) the cooler. It blows fresh air directly onto the cooler. It's like having a small turbo unit installed. I'm sure the added fans and new Northbridge cooler help with my airflow but I'd be willing to bet that this little setup has more to do with my cool temps than anything. Also, you can kinda make out the northbridge cooler on the bottom right next to the RAM. Zip ties are the OC'ers duct tape. So many uses...
January 26, 2009 11:36:37 AM

TheOriginalSamoyed- Thanks for the hitup in the other forum ^^

But its good to read that you understand what you'redoing now unlike me.

I tried this,

FSB: 266
Cpuratio: x12
Vcore: 1.412V (just lowered the vcore until it was unstable then moved it up slowly till i eventually posted into windows)

MemFREQ SPD: 4.0~ (1066 strapping, hope this is the right one)
MemSETTINGS SPD: AUTO (havuing a problem doing this bit as my memory rated @ 7-7-7-20 but in the settings the CL timing part only goes to 6 :?, any ideas why?)

Memory voltage. 0.2+ (adding to default @ 1.8V = 2.0V Right?)

In cpuZ it then shows me :

fsb ratio: 1.2 (how to sync it with 1066 memory cause im finding this bit hard)

Also when it posts @ 3.2GHZ temps are literly the same as it on 2.40GHZ (Tho everytime i run orthous it stops after 5 mins with a error but i looked @ temps and all were below 30c (so what am i doing wroung :( .

Im struggling to even get a simple oc :(  <------ NOOB AWARD 101 :D 

Ill print screen my temps and stuff at the higher settings (i even tried 3.3GHZ @ 1.425V like a member told me he got his stable @ that in my tomHW private messages, and it posts but same thing happens in orthous :( .

I tested memory with memtest86 = pass , 0 errors
I tested my Seagate sata2 (windows7 chkdsk) = pass , no bad sectors found.

January 26, 2009 12:04:09 PM

*what i cant figure out is that i selected Vcore @ 1.400 (instead of 1.325V so it posts) And i have the power droop options turned off, yet in cpuz it dont show my Vcore @ 1.400. hmm...*

Here is my print screen -

Placed memory @ auto settings tho:-
http://img292.imageshack.us/my.php?image=32ghzinfo1yh8....

Heres another on the speedfan information EXoctic page:-
http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?image=32ghzinfo2al4....

Temps havnt raise above 30C wheni was playing my game for 10mins, but orthous wont run a test without stopping 5mins into it and also game will crash after 15mins. So i know i havnt done something right as others have found this cpu to be an easy overclockers as it dont oc that far. (3.5GHZ in a guide until they hit a wall (no voltage would help they said as the wall was solid.)


Any ideas where im doing wroung:-
Ill RR this bk to optimised defaults until i find out where to adjust and where ima going wroung.
!