New build, no power/fan movement :(

[47Carleton]

hello all... first, i did do a search, but i guess my criteria sucks... didn't find what i wanted...

i'm hoping i can post and have someone with a similar experience help out. this is a fairly lengthy post but i'm trying to be thorough and give as much info as possible to those able or willing to respond.

problem:
just put new PC together last night following standard directions in the manuals for case and mobo/processor/etc... and when i finally hit the power button absolutely nothing happens. dead

parts:
Antec Sonata Plus 550W PSU (pre-installed, modular)
ASUS P5K-E AP/WIFI mobo
BFG OC512MB GF 8800GT vid
2 x 2GB Corsair XMS2 PC6400 DDR2 800 ram
pioneer DVD re-writer (sata)
Samsung HDD (sata)
Intel Quad Q6600 with HSF

observation:
there is a green LED called SB_PWR (standby power) that lights up on the mobo when the power switch is turned on on the back of the PSU. can i elimiate the PSU? this, by the way, is the ONLY indication of any type of power going into the PC

attempted:
reseated the CPU
reseated the HSF
reseated vid card
confirmed all power connections (24 pin plus the 2x4 power to mobo) and signal (SATA) connections
reseated the front panel connectors
did the clear ram thing (battery + jumper)
prayer

outstanding:
i have read that some recommend connecting out of the case... since i'm now at work, can't try that yet
i didn't find a wire in the case for the system speaker, so that is not connected to the 4-pin connector were the rest of the front panel pins are
i didn't try using onle one DIMM yet.

other questions:
my case came with a large case fan pre-installed. coming from that there is only a power connection and a wire that terminates at a switch for L/M/H fan speed. i was asked if i had the fan connected to the CH FAN1 but there's nothing to connect. it was suggested that not having that connected might prevent powering up.

shorting... i have NO idea how to determine if somehting is shorting. should i just be checking that there are no more standoffs than needed? (i don't think there were). should i try removing the I/O panel?

also, does it matter which screws are used to mount the mobo? i used some tall ones that came with the mobo, where the threading is separated from the head of the screw. i noticed a ring of solder points around each mounting hole... are the smaller screws to be used here and supposed to make contact with these points?

thanks all for your attention. any help is very much appreciated!

 

[akhilles]

I think I've read a similar post here. The problem was the case's power button. In your case, the onboard green led going on is a good sign that the mobo is getting power.

Doesn't matter how you mount the mobo or even hanging it on a cloth hanger as long as there's no shortouts. If you're worried, you can get some cardboard/paper washers in between the screws & the top of the mobo.

n = screw
- = washer
= = mobo
u = screw

Disconnect the PWRSW connection. Use the tip of a ball pen or pencil to short these 2 pins. Does the pc power on now? If not, remove the barebone from the case & turn it on the same way on the mobo box.

 

[jsc]

"there is a green LED called SB_PWR (standby power) that lights up on the mobo when the power switch is turned on on the back of the PSU. can i elimiate the PSU? "

Not necessarily. Any motherboard LED's that are on when the computer is off, are powered by the line called "5V Standby" or "5V AUX". This is always on if the PSU is plugged into the wall and any power switch on the back of the PSU is turned on. This output (main connector, pin 9, violet wire) comes from a small power supply - usually about 10 watts or so - that is completely separate (except for primary power, of course) from the main power supply.


"i have read that some recommend connecting out of the case... since i'm now at work, can't try that yet
i didn't find a wire in the case for the system speaker, so that is not connected to the 4-pin connector were the rest of the front panel pins are"

It's called breadboarding - from the old homebrew radio days in the '20's and 30's back before even I was born. It's usually used as a troubleshooting measure. I always breadboard before I put parts in the case. That way, I know that I am putting good parts in the case. I also install Windows and drivers then. And I have started doing a 24 hour burnin with Prime95. Among other things, that will detect problems caused by an improperly mounted heat sink. I think that Antec cases do not come with a small speaker. My 900 didn't. Buy one or salvage one from an old case. It's a valuable diagnostic tool.


"i was asked if i had the fan connected to the CH FAN1 but there's nothing to connect. it was suggested that not having that connected might prevent powering up."

Unlikely. I/O panel, also unlikely unless any of the little springy fingers are actually poking into any of the sockets.


The simplest way to check a case power switch is to simply substitute the reset switch for it.

For more ideas, try this:
http://www.tomswiki.com/page/Troubleshooting+a+New+Build

The usual culprit for a dead new build is the PSU.