darqwater

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*UPDATED
**UPDATED II
***UPDATED III
good day to the community. i always come to toms forums when i need to research a purchase, but have never posted(until now).

first time building a complete box. - looking to play all the games i could not in the past 2 years and for the next 3.- i have been looking up all sorts of information, however, it makes me dizzy.
this is what i am looking at.

MOBO: [strike]EVGA 132-CK-NF78-A1 LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 780i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard US$239.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188024[/strike]
[strike]***LOOKING FOR NEW MOBO***[/strike]
GIGABYTE GA-X48-DS4 LGA 775 Intel X48 ATX Intel
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128336

PROCESSOR: E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz 6MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core US$194.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115037

GPU: [strike]EVGA 512-P3-N841-AR GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 US$:259.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130325[/strike]
EVGA 512-P3-N801-AR GeForce 8800GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130318

RAM: [strike]Kingston 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) US:$79.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820134193[/strike]
CORSAIR XMS2 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145176&Tpk=20-145-176

HDD: [strike]Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD5000AAKS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb US$84.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136073[/strike]
Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 500GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148288


OS: [strike]Vista Ultimate SP1 64-bit English 1pk DSP OEI DVD - OEM US:$179.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116493[/strike]
[strike]**NEED TO CHANGE OS FROM ULTIMATE (WHATS OEM ALL ABOUT??)[/strike]
Microsoft Windows Vista 64-Bit Home Premium for System Builders

CASE: Antec Sonata Plus 550 With 550W Power Supply US$179.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129037
**SOME THINK PU IS TO LOW, LINK TO WHAT OTHERS THINK
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/249735-28-antec-drive-single-9600gt ****

total cost after combo deals and rebates [strike]1,199.98[/strike]

over clocking will not happen of a few months/year (need to learn more about it).

the case comes with a power supply has good air flow and traps sound (which is a must for my room).

i feel that everything will work together well with the research i have done, but i also got lost in a lot of it. so here i am writing my first post. what does this community think about the set up? i know i am just one of 12,000 others before me asking the same question.... but i trust the opinion of this board.

thanks in advance,
darqwater
 

arson94

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Hmm...

I would get some DDR2 800 RAM and a Seagate 7200.11 series HDD with 32MB cache. I can't comment on Vista as I've never used it, still on XP :) Add in a good cooler when you do go to overclock and you should be alright.

This next comment is just food for thought, I'd get opinions from some other people who know from experience, but I'm not sure the 8800GTS is your best option. The 8800GT is about $70 cheaper and barely trails the GTS (G92) in performance. Well, at least from the few reviews that I've seen in the past. The 8800GT might be money better spent. But again, I'd get somebody else's opinion on the video card before making a decision.

--Arson94
 

darqwater

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thanks for the reply, Arson94.
7200.11? i take it that is the rpm? i will switch over to Seagate 7200.11 500gb.
switching the ram as well.

any other ideas out there ?
 

darqwater

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i shall read up on it after the box is built, i have always wanted to try Roadrunner.
i believe all the components will work together, no?
i am getting close to hitting BUY.
 

monst0r

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Looks alright. Some changes I would personally strive for would be:
1. Motherboard-Don't go with a nVidia chipset, go with an Intel chipset (P35/X38)
2. That PSU is worthless. Look for the same case without the PSU if you like that case. Invest your money on a nice PSU (PCP&C/Corsair/Seasonic) so that your components don't get fried. It's REALLY not worth the risk...is it?
3. If your going to buy Vista, then go with Home Premium. Ultimate is a waste really...

Everything else looks great. Good luck.
 

royalcrown

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No the 7200 part is the rpm, but the .11 is the series and of no real advantage over 7200.10, neither is 32 megs of cache. If you can save money by going 7200.10 and 16, go for it, if 7200.11 and 32 meg is close then go for it.

7200.11 320 meg drives are having lots of probs right now, so stay away from those particular models.
 

darqwater

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Royalcrown, are you saying that the choice that i have switched to is a no-go?
i am a bit confused about 320meg? typo?
 

modode

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The MB you have listed is a 780i chipset, which is nvidia nForce, not intel. There've been lots of reports of stability issues with these chipsets; the only reason I know of to fool with them at this point is if you are dead set on doing SLI with nvidia GPU's. Otherwise, the intel p38 or x38 chip sets are more stable and probably overclock easier.
 

arson94

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You can take royalcrown's advice and get the 7200.10 series drive with 16MB cache if you want. He's right in a way that you'll probably never be able to tell the difference but the last time I looked there was only like a $10 difference between same size drives of the 7200.10 and 7200.11 drives. For a $10 difference, why not take the 32MB cache? Also, just to consider, they do make changes between series like increasing the amount of data on a platter, to have less platters per drive creating less heat so for less mechanisms to fail. They also change power usage and other things. The difference between the .10's and .11's are probably not something you'll notice, more or less quality changes for an easier peace of mind. It's worth $5-$10 more. Any more than that though you can just say f*** it, seagates have a 5yr warranty anyway ;)

Also, the mobo you have listed is an Nvidia 780i chipset. The P35's and X38's are Intel chipsets. When you search in NewEgg by 'Northbridge', the Intel Northbridges are to what he's referring.

Royalcrown was saying that the 320MB sized drives in the 7200.11 series are experiencing some sort of issue, but I'm not sure as to what he's referring.

--Arson94
 

darqwater

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ok, i am getting great info. thanks all.
switching to a intel mobo. i am open to suggestions now, i am out of my league with this choice. i want upgrade ability with in 2-3-4 years. thoughts?
i would like to stick with the E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz, but now i am scared that i shall have to hunt for all new components with a new motherboard ?
 

rgsaunders

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I would suggest going with an Intel P35 chipset for value and maturity, if your budget allows for a little extra, then look at a board with either the x38 or x48 Intel chipsets. I have found the Gigabyte boards to be very good, although many people recommend Asus. I have used pretty well all the top brands over the years, each has their pros and cons. I would not recommend any of the recent nVidia chipset boards due to their issues with data corruption when even slightly overclocked. However, if you have your heart set on SLI graphics, (not something I recommend), then nVidia chipset boards are your only option, just bare in mind the data corruption issues with overclocking and don't overclock the board.

By the way, there is nothing wrong with the Antec 550 power supply that comes with that case, it is a good unit with excellent voltage regulation, and it will deliver quite nicely for you. Despite many peoples recommendations for high wattage power supplies, a system like the one you are building will not stress this unit at all, and it will operate very efficiently.
 
I dont see a DVD/CD drive in your list...

Suggested: Samsung SH-S203B


**NEED TO CHANGE OS FROM ULTIMATE (WHATS OEM ALL ABOUT??)
OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer. It is different from retail. If you want all of the specifics, go read the licenses.
Most specifically, it is tied to ONE computer.
 

arson94

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Well from the reviews that I have read, the 8800GT tails the GTS very closely. So close in fact that it may not warrant the extra $50 for the GTS. From what I have read, the 8800GT would probably be money better spent. The only other thing I can say is that the GT is a single slot card, where as the GTS is dual. That may not make a difference for you though. But the GTS, being dual slot cooler, does exhaust the hot air out of the case, where as the GT is like normal cards and just exhaust it out into the case and carried out with your case's ventilation or air flow. I would definitely wait for some advice from people with some experience with either card as I've not used either, I'm just relaying info from reviews and benchmarks I've seen. I guess it really weighs down to how much $50 really means to you. If $50 doesn't mean sh!t to you, then by all means, get the GTS. Either way, I doubt you'll regret either decision later.

--Arson94

 

darqwater

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venting out the heat would be great, however. . . do we know how loud that is? one reason for my case choice is the sound control.
i will read some reviews and try to find out.
 

arson94

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Well apparently the GT's reference cooler can get noisy opposed to the GTS' cooler. But I'm not sure if the cooler on your EVGA is the reference cooler. I know the GTS has more overclocking headroom if that makes a difference. Yea, I found plenty of reviews by searching google for "8800GT vs 8800GTS (G92)".

Good Luck

--Arson94
 

monst0r

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It looks like you chose the x48 chipset for your build.. I would recommend against it. The only blatant difference between the x38/x48 chipsets is that the x48 chipset is guaranteed to run at 1600FSB. Even my P35 can run over 1800FSB, let alone an x38. The x48 isn't worth the price premium over the x38 (go with an x38 instead).