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Core i7 965 and freezone elite??

Tags:
  • Heatsinks
  • Overclocking
  • Elite
  • Intel i7
Last response: in Overclocking
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April 22, 2009 4:46:33 AM

hey everyone...
heres my question... i want to buy the coolit freezone elite not so much for overclocking but to quiet down my computer and get rid of the silly stock cooler. there seems to be some debate whether the elite will handle the i7 965. two coolit tech i spoke to said no problem one said i could overclock it to around 3.8 the other said even up to 4 and be safe. on another overclocking forum several oc ing enthusiasts are positive that with the i7 965 ill do no better with the elite than a good air cooler like the v8 or something similar.
i dont want to do some elaborate watercooling setup nor do i want to spend 600 bucks on the boreas though im sure it would work great.
i have..

core i7 965
gigabyte ex58-ud5 mb
gtx280 sli
1000 W power
3 gig ram
1 tb hard drive

sure would appreciate your comments and imput. thanks

More about : core 965 freezone elite

April 22, 2009 5:26:47 AM

I have personally used this exact setup for a client and believe me the claims are overly exaggerated on their part. The Freeze zone elite does not provide enough heat transfer capability to disperse the heat the 965 gives off past 3.8ghz. Simply put, the 6 TECs arent enough (the surface area ratio between the TECS and the resovior/radiator isnt enough). Past 3.8, temps would climb past 70C and cause thermal shutdown. My other opinion is the 1/4" tubing they use is not sufficiant to get flow to the CPU block and transfer heat properly. Currently have the Free Zone Elite sitting in a box going into a not so demanding system. We resorted to using the Boreas system which sufficently cools the processor down (12 TECS on this thing) (with modification to 1/2" tubbing and a swifttech MCP pump (removed their pump)) the loop also includes 3 gtx 285. Currently we have achieved 30C idle and 50C load with the 965 at 3.8ghz.

On a side note for the Elite free Zone to be effective the 120mm fan was cranked on high in order to sustain satisfactory temps so the fan volume my or my not be to your liking. Setup is not hard at all; just alot of cords to hide, but the thermal paste that comes pre-applied to the block is overly excessive and ended up removing it and putting a fresh application of of diamond thermal compound.
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April 22, 2009 7:28:50 PM

just to be clear you only need to buy either the thermaltake OR the swift tech kit. not both.
April 22, 2009 8:06:15 PM

Playing off PsyKhiqZero...only get that Swiftech

Dont even TOUCH the thermaltake. They are very iffy in H2O cooling. Swiftech is better trusted

The best would be a full custom CPU loop but ur looking at $250-300 on that, but it will give u more room to expand in the future in watercooling...
April 23, 2009 2:05:21 AM

Agreed, a good single loop consisting of a good pump, 1/2" tubing, minimum dual radiator, and capable fans can work wonders in this situation and work problem free with good maintenance. Be prepared to to fork 200 to 400 bucks on components.

Oh yeah, big fan of swifttech!
March 28, 2012 6:42:02 AM

slickjr169 said:
I have personally used this exact setup for a client and believe me the claims are overly exaggerated on their part. The Freeze zone elite does not provide enough heat transfer capability to disperse the heat the 965 gives off past 3.8ghz. Simply put, the 6 TECs arent enough (the surface area ratio between the TECS and the resovior/radiator isnt enough). Past 3.8, temps would climb past 70C and cause thermal shutdown. My other opinion is the 1/4" tubing they use is not sufficiant to get flow to the CPU block and transfer heat properly. Currently have the Free Zone Elite sitting in a box going into a not so demanding system. We resorted to using the Boreas system which sufficently cools the processor down (12 TECS on this thing) (with modification to 1/2" tubbing and a swifttech MCP pump (removed their pump)) the loop also includes 3 gtx 285. Currently we have achieved 30C idle and 50C load with the 965 at 3.8ghz.

On a side note for the Elite free Zone to be effective the 120mm fan was cranked on high in order to sustain satisfactory temps so the fan volume my or my not be to your liking. Setup is not hard at all; just alot of cords to hide, but the thermal paste that comes pre-applied to the block is overly excessive and ended up removing it and putting a fresh application of of diamond thermal compound.


I have an i7 930 OC'd to 3.2 (14%), gigabyte g.1assassin, gtx 570 HD x2, and a freezone elite (FZ-1003). The freezone can keep up with the load as long as you keep the room temp down. The freezone is greatly limited by the ambient temp, it's nearly impossible to get the coolant temp below ambient because of the Elite's massive heatsink. The peltiers would be working at 100% all the time just trying to keep it at ambient.
That being said, the freezone elite does keep my cpu around 30 Deg C as long as it's not too hot in the room. Plus i'm only OCing a 2.8 to 3.2. I can't imagine it working well with the cpu oc'd 20%. You need to put a radiator in the loop between the cpu exit and the chiller's intake. Andrew Wildgoose at Coolit told me the intake tube to the pump is the one next to the fill port, the other is carrying the chilled water to the cpu. Putting a nice rad after the CPU block would help deal with the bulk of the heat and allow the TECs to work more efficiently. The chiller expends at least half it's power just returning the water to ambient. A good rad could easily do that, thus enabling the TEC's work more on taking it below ambient.
The final solution for the elite is to replace the copper heatsink with identical blue waterblocks on a second loop w/ 2nd rad, in effect cooling the tecs with water. That would give you the greatest delta and max cooling capacity. Even with that, the manuf's claim of 250 watts of cooling power just doesn't pan out. My i7 is a 135w chip, and it just barely keeps up and has to work real hard doing it. My hopes of looping in the GPU's is out the window, although a really nice rad, like a dual 180, would deal with that kind of heat and minimize the load on the TECs.

Also, i was able to get a bracket for 1366 from coolit, but i had to mod it slightly to get it over the hose clamps at the cpu block. Check your socket! Enzotech makes the "Z-type" adapter (adaptes the cooler's 775 hardware to fit 1366 boards), but forget 2011 and 1155/1156. No brackets for them.

Just for reference, my current temps are:
System up time: 1 hour
Ambient = 21 deg C
cooler setting: I have set "20 deg C" as the target coolant temp.
TEC power: 100%
coolant temp reading: 21 deg C (where Coolit places the sensor, the water is approx. half-way through the cooling cycle. Presumably the water temp does actually go lower than what is displayed)
actual CPU temp: 23 deg C (idle)

Note that while the target coolant temp is 20, the result is 21, or, ambient. It does NOT reach 20.
Raising the target temp to ambient (21), the TEC power utilization drops to 94%
You don't want to strain the tec's like that all the time, so you need to yield a little and shoot for a coolant temp of "ambient+3 deg C". By doing so, the power drain drops to 63%, promoting longer TEC life (yes, the TECs are consumables). That results in cpu temp = 27 C, or "ambient+6 C".

No rad at this point, just a straight-up freezone elite, though I did replace the fan with a SilenX IXP-76-18 90 CFM/18dba 120x32mm fan, much quieter than the MAT-NMB Model FBA12G12H1BX (103 CFM/41dba) that came with the cooler.

The Elite will definitely out-perform any air cooler, at least my old Titan Fenrir SE (came in 10th of 240 air coolers tested on frostytech) didn't give me temps like this. The Titan Fenrir (the old one, not the new one), with it's 5 heatpipes, came in just 1.8 deg more than the Noctua D-14 under a 150 watt load, and costs a LOT less. With the Overclocked i7 on the G1.Assassin, the Titan gave temps in the mid & upper 30's, and was much quieter than the Elite is, though the Elite drops the CPU temp 10 C below that of the air cooler.

Ultimately, I need a second pair of the blue waterblocks that come on the Elite (anyone have an elite-for-parts/not-working?) to water-cool the tecs, and a pair of nice rads.
It could be possibly be done with a single loop and rad, provided you split the water stream after the rad (one to cool the cpu, the other to cool the tecs), then re-join the streams again on their way back to the rad. And, you'd probably need a more powerful pump, but as I have the pump that came with the Elite, i'll give it a try and let you all know. It's just hard to get the blue waterblocks, Coolit doesn't have any I've checked.
!