My new 1500W can not handle my computer

Hello..

Computer specifications:
Quote:

CPU: Intel i7 Extreme 965 3.2Ghz.
Motherboard: Gigabyte EX58-Extreme rev.1
GPU: TWO ATi RADEON HD 4870X2 2GB
Memory: OCZ 1600 (6X2GB) 12GB Total.
HDD: 3 WesternDigial HDs with 2TB (6TB Total using RAID). and 2 WD 500GB SATA2 (inside, in the floppy place). 2 other SATA2 HDs outside ( 7 HDDs total).
Blu-ray Burner: LG BRD Burner
Case: Gigabyte-Poseidon-310
Power Supply (NOW-NEW): Thermaltake 1500W watt.



Two days ago I bought a new power supply Thermaltake 1500W after suffering of 1200W Coolmax:

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/5421/photo1v.jpg
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/photo1v.jpg/1/w640.png

My new 1500W works OK sometimes. For example, yesterday I lift the computer ON with crossfireX enabled and GTA IV game with the highest graphics options for 6 hours and it doesn't blink.. Then I ran stability test using EVEREST Ultimate for more than 2 hours and stressing everything (CPU-HD-MEMORY..).

BUT after I finished all tests I shutdown the PC and turned it on again it ran for a second then stopped ( the CPU fan makes a move then stops).


Sometimes, if I wait for 10 min then turn it on it works.

Or if I unplug the cables then turn the computer on then off, plug the cables it works.

------------------

I feel there is an electrical cycle problem..

Should I change my PSU (it is the third one for this PC).
Can't I reorganize the cables on a way that makes everything work all the time?

My computer is now working fine.. is it reasonable not to turn it off at all to avoid this problem ( for years I mean:)).

What do you think?

Please Help or tell an electrics expert about this problem.
46 answers Last reply
More about 1500w handle computer
  1. Refresh us: why did you replace the last two PSU's? If you were experiencing the exact same problem with those PSU's, then I would venture to say its not the power supply, more likely your motherboard.

    I feel like this topic would be better served in the homebuilt section...overclocking doesn't seem to be an issue here.
  2. xthekidx said:
    Refresh us: why did you replace the last two PSU's? If you were experiencing the exact same problem with those PSU's, then I would venture to say its not the power supply, more likely your motherboard.



    Is 1200WATT enough for 7 HDD 3 DVD and Two 4870X2?
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/264510-31-1200watt-4870x2#t1928975


    By the way, I love the picture of yours :) it is really nice :lol:
  3. I'd say 1200 should be plenty and therefore also suspect the MB...
  4. aziraphale said:
    I'd say 1200 should be plenty and therefore also suspect the MB...


    The motherboard worked fine with old COOLMAX 1200W.
    I did not face this problem with old PSU.
  5. Sometimes certain power supplies and motherboards to not play well together, so that could be the issue, or maybe you are just really unlucky and got another bum PSU. The Enermax 1250W and EVGA Classified is one example of this.
  6. xthekidx said:
    Sometimes certain power supplies and motherboards to not play well together, so that could be the issue, or maybe you are just really unlucky and got another bum PSU. The Enermax 1250W and EVGA Classified is one example of this.


    Thank you fro commenting.

    So.. Which one should I replace the PSU or MB?

    Is there a software that can show me the activities of PSU & MB ?
    I have Everest ultimate... can It help to specify the source of the problem?
    Can I do tests that discover the bad part?
  7. If the PSU has multiple rails, make sure you're not overloading any one +12v rail. To avoid the multiple rail problem, consider a PSU with a single powerful rail from PC Power & Cooling or another single-rail PSU (can't think of any other brands off the top of my head).

    I would look in to other possibilities too such as motherboard.
  8. Hello..

    Let me tell you what happens so far.

    The problem is not clear yet. When I shutdown the computer and turn it on again it will not work directly. I have to wait more than 10 mins.

    I feel that there is an electrical shock in the board and I have to wait till it vanishes.


    There is a part of the motherboard that I did not use (I don't know what's the benefit of it).

    http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/389/ironorsomthing.tif
    http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/ironorsomthing.tif/1/w371.png

    There is nothing about it in the manual:
    http://download.gigabyte.ru/manual/motherboard_manual_ga-ex58-extreme_e.pdf

    This is the motherboard:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128361

    ---------------------

    Quote:
    If the PSU has multiple rails, make sure you're not overloading any one +12v rail. To avoid the multiple rail problem, consider a PSU with a single powerful rail from PC Power & Cooling or another single-rail PSU (can't think of any other brands off the top of my head).

    I would look in to other possibilities too such as motherboard.


    leo2kp, I did try to plug cables in different outputs according to the manual..
  9. Di7 said:
    Is 1200WATT enough for 7 HDD 3 DVD and Two 4870X2?
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/264510-31-1200watt-4870x2#t1928975


    By the way, I love the picture of yours :) it is really nice :lol:



    Go to http://extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp
    and use the Power Supply calculator. Excellent site to determine power supply requirements. I use it all the time.
  10. pajama said:
    Go to http://extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp
    and use the Power Supply calculator. Excellent site to determine power supply requirements. I use it all the time.


    Sweet.. I used the lite edition with single 4870X2 and here is the result:
    Recommended PSU Wattage: 1236W

    Thanks for the site.


    -----------------

    Can anyone give me an idea about the electrical shock.. I think I have to wait till it vanishes before turning the computer ON.

    What about the part of the motherboard that I did not use (I don't know what's the benefit of it).
    http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/389/ironorsomthing.tif
  11. Your PC shouldn't have an electrical charge...that would be a bad thing. Your house is grounded right? I doubt you need that extra peice of the MB, its probably a tool that is included to help installing something. Don't worry about it, its not the cause of your problem.
  12. if you are touching the outside of the case and getting a shock that is not a regular static charge type of feeling than i would lean towards looking for shorts or groundouts. If you put a multimeter on the case where you are talking about touching and you get a voltage potential with respect to ground you have wiring problems either in the PSU or your electrical outlet at that location. It would not be the first time an outlet went bad or a ground got messed up, it does happen..

    or try unpluging some components that are not needed and see if the problem goes away - you could be overloading a particular rail on your psu. make sure that the load is correctly distributed. or you might want to try a single rail type PSU like the PC power and cooling models.
  13. edwilson said:
    if you are touching the outside of the case and getting a shock that is not a regular static charge type of feeling than i would lean towards looking for shorts or groundouts. If you put a multimeter on the case where you are talking about touching and you get a voltage potential with respect to ground you have wiring problems either in the PSU or your electrical outlet at that location. It would not be the first time an outlet went bad or a ground got messed up, it does happen..

    or try unpluging some components that are not needed and see if the problem goes away - you could be overloading a particular rail on your psu. make sure that the load is correctly distributed. or you might want to try a single rail type PSU like the PC power and cooling models.


    I'm putting the PC on a wooden table. I don't have multimeter at the moment I'll try it later.

    I try to unplug some/all components but it does not work all the time..

    I try to change the place of cables but I'm not sure of the best choices.

    More information about the PSU:
    http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/4410/31306137.tif
    http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/31306137.tif/1/w580.png
    http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9277/89575575.tif
    http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/89575575.tif/1/w577.png

    http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/psus/2008/04/16/thermaltake_toughpower_1500w_w0171_psu/1
    http://www.thermaltake.com/product/Power/ToughPower/w0171/w0171.asp#


    They split output power into 2 parts each one has 750w.. Am I pushing it too far?
  14. IF there IS somehow a problem with your PC it's not because you don't have enough power from your PSU. There may be a grounding issue, there may be a dead PSU issue, there might even be something else that you're missing. I ran a similar system on a HX1000 and never had any problems.

    Maybe you should take the time to remove your parts one by one, try swapping in the old PSU, try different slots on the mobo.

    Again, you could have run all of that on a GOOD 1000 Watt PSU. Don't throw away any more money, if you DO want to throw away money, take the PC to a proper shop and have them look at it. That'd be better than wasting more money on a 1500 watt PSU.
  15. Read the conclusions on that Bit Tech review... they were running Tri-SLI (Yes only 9800GTX, but still a decent amount) a QX9770 (Fairly power hungry) and were pulling about 515 watts at PEAK. Unless you've had all defective units, the problem most likely resides elsewhere in the system.
  16. Di7 said:
    Sweet.. I used the lite edition with single 4870X2 and here is the result:
    Recommended PSU Wattage: 1236W

    Thanks for the site.


    -----------------

    Can anyone give me an idea about the electrical shock.. I think I have to wait till it vanishes before turning the computer ON.

    What about the part of the motherboard that I did not use (I don't know what's the benefit of it).
    http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/389/ironorsomthing.tif


    Using that site with your specifications, even doing an extreme overclock, using 100% TDP and system load and adding in things that I "guessed" you might have, I couldn't get above 1100.
  17. cokenbeer said:
    Using that site with your specifications, even doing an extreme overclock, using 100% TDP and system load and adding in things that I "guessed" you might have, I couldn't get above 1100.


    I have LG Blu-ray burner now.. and many USB devices, including:
    USB HDD
    Bluetooth
    scanner
    Ni Mh battery charger (for charging small batteries).
    Printer.

    I'm using all SATAII ports on the motherboard.. I was using even the IDE. (I removed it).

    I'm using all memory slots. (6x2GB 1600Mhz).

    In the test I also added more devices that I'm going to use later ( Black Magic, for example which will be used for capturing HD Video).
  18. Even with all of that, I would be somewhat surprised if you could actually in reality overload a good quality 1kw, such as the Corsair HX1000W. You definitely wouldn't be able to overload a 1500W PSU, such as your current one. Basically, if there is a problem, it isn't your PSU.
  19. @OP: Did you remember the motherboard stand offs?
  20. Quote:
    @OP: Did you remember the motherboard stand offs?


    If you mean the golden stands that link the motherboard to the case.. Yes, I did each one of them.

    Someone may ask so, at the power options I choose high performance: Never turn off the display, never put computer to sleep.

    The computer is working perfectly while it is ON the performance are great..
    In fact, yesterday I stress CPU & Memory 100% using Prime95 (64bit) - 25.8 for about half an hour whit no problems at all.

    http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2905/capture01o.jpg
    http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/capture01o.jpg/1/w611.png

    http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7959/capture02e.jpg
    http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/capture02e.jpg/1/w554.png


    The only problem now is turning the PC off after a long use.. I have to wait, as I said, more then 10 mins before turning it on again.
  21. cokenbeer said:
    Don't throw away any more money, if you DO want to throw away money, take the PC to a proper shop and have them look at it. That'd be better than wasting more money on a 1500 watt PSU.


    I have to wait 3 days in the nearest shop, they are crowded and they needs more time to figure out the problems with new technologies (as one of them said!)..

    I think the problem is very small and can be fixed easily but it needs focusing and tests..

    If I did not figure out I'll replace the motherboard under the warranty.
  22. :pfff: You spent $1000 on an i7 965 just so you could OC it to 3.33ghz?!? What is wrong with you?!!!!!!!?

    Di7 said:

    In fact, yesterday I stress CPU & Memory 100% using Prime95 (64bit) - 25.8 for about half an hour whit no problems at all.

    1/2 hour is not enough time to determine whether your OC is stable...it gives you a good idea, but you should run it for at least 12 hours, preferably 24, and make sure you enable round-off checking, otherwise your PC will not flag the errors it encounters and will keep testing. Although at 3.33ghz I doubt you are encountering errors.
  23. Di7 said:
    I have LG Blu-ray burner now.. and many USB devices, including:
    USB HDD
    Bluetooth
    scanner
    Ni Mh battery charger (for charging small batteries).
    Printer.

    I'm using all SATAII ports on the motherboard.. I was using even the IDE. (I removed it).

    I'm using all memory slots. (6x2GB 1600Mhz).

    In the test I also added more devices that I'm going to use later ( Black Magic, for example which will be used for capturing HD Video).


    Next time just throw your money into a prebuilt system please. You clearly don't know how a PC works.

    This was my setup... on a HX1000, and I NEVER had a problem.

    Q9550 oc'd to 3.8 GHz (probably sucked back more juice than your current CPU)
    2 x 4870x2 OC'd
    4 x 2GB OCZ DDR3 1600
    2 x 300 GB raptors in Raid 0
    4 x 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F1
    Asus Xonar DX2
    LG Blu Ray/HD DVD player
    LG DVD Burner
    8 x Noctua Case fans

    2 keyboards (G15 and Nostromo) like these really suck back the power anyways.
    Mouse
    Speakers
    Headphones
    Printer
    Vinyl Cutter

    etc.

    All of this ran on the HX1000. I never even noticed it get warm and could have probably added more things to my PC.

    Seriously, I'm beginning to think you're just wasting our time. Good luck with your PC, I hope you figure it out.
  24. first make sure that the video cards are being fed by the larger +12v rails, that would be 3 and 4.
    see if that makes a difference

    Then, try running just one video card for a while and see how that goes.
    pull one card out then benchtest for 24 hours, remove that one, replace with the other. retest for another 24. If you get no failures, that points to three possibilties

    1. second pci slot is possibly bad - a remote possibility

    2. your power supply just cant handle the load on a particular rail - switch to a single rail type.

    3. possible overheating in a particular area or chip that only happens when both cards are installed. two cards of this size will generate HUGE amounts of heat
    and the PSU also puts out huge amounts as well. try running with the case open maybe put a fan blowing in cool air. retest.


    BTW - is your PSU , certified for this configuration?

    check here- http://game.amd.com/us-en/crossfirex_components.aspx?p=3#ATI%20Radeon™%20HD%204870%20X2
  25. Boy are you only in overkill mode i wish i had that kind of money;)
  26. edwilson said:
    first make sure that the video cards are being fed by the larger +12v rails, that would be 3 and 4.
    see if that makes a difference

    Then, try running just one video card for a while and see how that goes.
    pull one card out then benchtest for 24 hours, remove that one, replace with the other. retest for another 24. If you get no failures, that points to three possibilties

    1. second pci slot is possibly bad - a remote possibility

    2. your power supply just cant handle the load on a particular rail - switch to a single rail type.

    3. possible overheating in a particular area or chip that only happens when both cards are installed. two cards of this size will generate HUGE amounts of heat
    and the PSU also puts out huge amounts as well. try running with the case open maybe put a fan blowing in cool air. retest.


    BTW - is your PSU , certified for this configuration?

    check here- http://game.amd.com/us-en/crossfirex_components.aspx?p=3#ATI%20Radeon™%20HD%204870%20X2


    - The computer did not faces this problem with previous PSU (if faced a different problem).

    - The new 1500w which I have is 2007 model but they said, in the box, it supports nVidai SLI and ALL Multi-Core GPU technology. In the manual they wrote: .....Toughpower 1500W is able to support NVIDIA SLI & ATI Crossfire technology and multiple high end graphics cards.

    I could not find it in the list.

    Quote:
    Next time just throw your money into a prebuilt system please. You clearly don't know how a PC works.


    I'm learning....

    Quote:
    You spent $1000 on an i7 965 just so you could OC it to 3.33ghz?!? What is wrong with you?!!!!!!!?

    xthekidx, don't push me.. I'm going to overcolck it to 3.8 / 4.2 ..but not right now..
    First I want to end the power problem..
    I'm working slowly..

    By the way 3.33Ghz is the default.. I did not overclock the CPU yet..
  27. there is a big difference between supporting a multi card configuration and being certified / tested for a particular config and/or build. I would contact ATI and TT to see if what you are trying to do has been done and or tested by either of them. perhaps they can provide us with some usefull info. I am sure they both have forums like this one, scour them for info.
  28. edwilson said:
    there is a big difference between supporting a multi card configuration and being certified / tested for a particular config and/or build. I would contact ATI and TT to see if what you are trying to do has been done and or tested by either of them. perhaps they can provide us with some usefull info. I am sure they both have forums like this one, scour them for info.


    The PSU is certified by Nvidia SLI, check this page:
    http://www.thermaltake.com/product/Power/ToughPower/w0171/w0171.asp

    It has all information about my PSU.
  29. I have seen several posts where people were having similar problems with rebooting on the i7 systems.
    I believe these problems were fixed by most people by updating their motherboards bios to the latest versions.

    Make sure your boards bios are up to date, then do a stability test on the system with no overclocking.

    Sounds like a problem with your motherboard or your overclock to me.
  30. Quote:
    By the way 3.33Ghz is the default.. I did not overclock the CPU yet..

    3.2ghz is default. You have turbo mode enabled.
  31. xthekidx said:
    3.2ghz is default. You have turbo mode enabled.

    Yeah, but I would still consider that to be default, considering that the turbo mode setting is enabled on all boards by default.
  32. xthekidx said:
    3.2ghz is default. You have turbo mode enabled.


    OLD --> You are right, should I try the extreme mode with the regular intel fan?

    ADDITIONAL:
    OH Wait.. That was not true.. I change the setting to standard mode and it is the same 3.33Ghz.. I guess it is the default for one of the cores (just guessing:)).
  33. Man, you are playing with some serious power bud!!! You're PC takes so long to shut down because power is still running through it for 10mins!!! DAYUM o_O

    Honestly, i would try another PSU (1000w should be more than enough). You over estimated the ammount of power your computer can handle. I can almost guarantee you an 850W PSU will power your PC with no problem!!

    Dude, i hope you understand how much power you are generating in one spot with that hardware.
  34. Kill@dor said:
    Man, you are playing with some serious power bud!!! You're PC takes so long to shut down because power is still running through it for 10mins!!! DAYUM o_O

    Honestly, i would try another PSU (1000w should be more than enough). You over estimated the ammount of power your computer can handle. I can almost guarantee you an 850W PSU will power your PC with no problem!!

    Dude, i hope you understand how much power you are generating in one spot with that hardware.


    I tried 950w and it was not enough for two 4870X2..

    I upgraded to 1200w and few days later I smell something burning in the room, it was IT!!

    Then I upgraded to 1500w and this problem appeared!!

    Don't you think that there may be a problem with the Motherboard?

    I faced over heat problem with the north bridge with the old 1200w..
    (the red led was flashing or at least ON which means it was over 80C during a heavy load.)

    I thank all for commenting, I'll replace the motherboard tomorrow and see..

    If you still have any suggestions please let me know.
  35. Well try turning your computer on again after an hour or so and see if it posts. If it doesn't boot to your desktop then you have a problem...most likely you fried something, even your PSU. If it posts, i would recommend getting at least a 1000w since you claim a 950w is not enough.

    Also, one thing i noticed is you have s**** load of hard drives...for what reason i don't know. Are you using IDE or just all SATA? Running both can sometimes cause system instability. Make sure the HD's outside of the case are off...unplug the other 2 SATA's for now and leave the 2TB HD's on and inside the case. Then try turning it on...
  36. Here is a link to the official ATI list of 4870X2 certified power supplies.
    http://game.amd.com/us-en/crossfirex_components.aspx?p=3#ATI Radeon™ HD 4870 X2

    Yours is not on the list, but some lower powered variants are.

    Unless it is defective(which I doubt), I don't think the psu is the source of your problem.
  37. Hey..

    Kill@dor, If I turn the computer off completely the LEDs stops in about 10 seconds.

    *I was using IDE but I removed it..

    **I'm using lots of SATA hard drive with RAID to achieve better performance.

    ***I don't think I'm downgrading to 1000w... 1500w is sexy and I loved it. (I hope I can fix the problem without losing it:().

    xthekidx said:
    Your PC shouldn't have an electrical charge...that would be a bad thing. Your house is grounded right? I doubt you need that extra peice of the MB, its probably a tool that is included to help installing something. Don't worry about it, its not the cause of your problem.


    I have electrical shocks with my Macbook Pro all the time, I feel it.. sometimes I jump because of it. (lite shocks I mean).

    --------------------

    Anonymous said:
    Here is a link to the official ATI list of 4870X2 certified power supplies.
    http://game.amd.com/us-en/crossfirex_components.aspx?p=3#ATI Radeon™ HD 4870 X2

    Yours is not on the list, but some lower powered variants are.

    Unless it is defective(which I doubt), I don't think the psu is the source of your problem.


    I know.. it is not in the list.. but they said it support quad GPUs, see here:
    http://www.thermaltake.com/product/Power/ToughPower/w0171/w0171.asp

    In fact, two days ago I left my computer on with GTA IV running at the highest graphics level for 8 hours with no problems at all. (QuadfireX was ON, and the fans were at their best).

    SOME PICTURES:
    http://img259.imageshack.us/my.php?image=49190253.jpg
    http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=48806800.jpg
    http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=80708204.jpg
  38. Looks like i was wrong about 850W working with 2 of those cards. But i bet you if i tried it i could get it to work. I used an 8800GT, Q6600 and 2 500GB HD's in RAID and an external 150GB HD on an Intel board OC'd with a small 400W PSU with extra's if that tells you anything.

    Macbook and desktop cannot be compared in power... That shock you get is just static (normal)...desktop (even a 400W PSU can fry your brain) PC's obviously use more.

    If i were you, i would leave the 6TB's you have in RAID for now, take out all the other HD's and take out one of your graphics cards (for testing only). Plug one thing at a time until it gets unstable again!!

    Man, if this doesn't work for you i really don't know how to help. I'm a newbie too, but it doesn't take rocket science to figure out you are using a ton of power. Can you pay my light bill please?! LOL! Again, you need another PSU because it is generating far too much power!!
  39. Your PSU is total overkill. I'm running dual 4870x2's on a 1000W Corsair, and your extra HDD's don't use much power at all compared to graphics cards.
  40. You have a real nice computer the kind of computer that keeps most of use awake at night!

    I would take one 4870x2 out as someone suggested then make sure you have the most up to date bios version for your motherboard. Then see if your problem remains.

    Good luck!
  41. op can we get an update?.. still having issues, did you try anything we suggested?
  42. Just discussing PSU's on another thread. You probably need to find a single rail PSU instead of a multi rail!! But that would mean sacrificing modular cabling...
  43. Kill@dor said:
    Just discussing PSU's on another thread. You probably need to find a single rail PSU instead of a multi rail!! But that would mean sacrificing modular cabling...

    There are pro's and con's to each of the different styles of PSU's. I have been a power supply designer for more years than I want to think about. One is not better than the other, they just have different design philosopies. It is just like graphic cards, some people swear by ATI and some swear by nVidia. Whether using a single rail or multi rail has nothing to do with Di7 getting shocked. He has some current leakage path in his system that is really hard to detect without looking at his system. I do think the leakage is happening in the PSU, that is where all of the large caps are that can hold a charge and would take a while to drain down.
  44. Quote:
    Modern PSUs are cabled in a way that won't cause excessive load on one string of cable alone.
    The old ATX12V spec. with 240VA limit on 12V rail is pure nonsense which is why it's removed from latest v2.2 spec. New PSUs you find on market today should have one large single 12V rail or two for those >850W PSUs needing two 12V circuitry.

    There has NEVER been a single advantage of multi-rail PSU as they're all virtual rails with an artificial OCP placed on them. If you want to cut yourself then touch the connectors while your computer is running go ahead. ;)

    btw, the rest of this thread provided me with laughable contents. Thanks for the entertainment.


    Wusy you have some really good points, but never say NEVER. You do get lower emissions with multi rails, that may not seem important unless you are trying to get the CE Mark for your product. :sol:
  45. pajama said:
    Wusy you have some really good points, but never say NEVER. You do get lower emissions with multi rails, that may not seem important unless you are trying to get the CE Mark for your product. :sol:


    Since we have someone here that is in the industry, perhaps you could clarify for us the various certifications / requirements, and the various power classes / requirements. For instance, what certification requires 18A max output on a 12VDC rail? I'm curious personally, as I have a Seasonic M12 700W, the label states four +12v outputs @ 18A per, but there are only two landing pads for the +12V leads...
  46. croc said:
    Since we have someone here that is in the industry, perhaps you could clarify for us the various certifications / requirements, and the various power classes / requirements. For instance, what certification requires 18A max output on a 12VDC rail? I'm curious personally, as I have a Seasonic M12 700W, the label states four +12v outputs @ 18A per, but there are only two landing pads for the +12V leads...


    Croc, I am not what you would call "in the industry". I am just a design engineer that helps design power supplies. I spend most of my time at test labs. Here is what I can tell you about certifications:
    UL/CSA (US and Canada) - mainly test for safety (shock hazard, leakage current, etc). They test and examine all components attached to the mains.
    CE Mark (All countries in the European Economic Community) - They also check for safety, but they also look at (these are my fields of expertise) 1. Radiated emissions, 2. Conducted Emission, 3. ESD Immunity, 4. Radiated Immunity, 5. Conducted Immunity, 6. Magnetic Field Susceptability.
    FCC (US) - Similar to testing that is done for the CE Mark

    There are other Certifications but these are the main ones used around the world. The standards that are used for the testing are many and are determined by the wattage of the supply. That is one reason that 700 watt and above PSU's are so much more expensive (they fall under more stringent standards for Emissions, etc). I hope this helps. If you would like more info just send me an E-mail. I am sure most people on the forum would get put to sleep reading about EMI Testing. :sleep: Only the nerdiest of the nerds gets involved with EMI/RFI. :sol:
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