Do I have a dead motherboard? No beep, no BIOS screen.

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Swampfoot

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This machine ran beautifully for over a year. For several months now, this homebuilt machine would occasionally fail to boot or restart, but it's gotten to where it will successfully POST and boot maybe one out of 20 times. As of tonight, it will not boot no matter how many times I try. There's power - but no beep, no BIOS screen, just PSU fan, CPU Fan and case fan spinning. Pulled the board, and saw no sign of shorting.

Here's the specs:
Processor: AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Dual-Core - 2.2GHz
Motherboard: Asus M2NBP-VM
2gb RAM (two sticks, 1 Patriot and 1 Crucial, tried together and individually)
320 gb SATA Hard Drive
160 gb IDE Hard Drive
LG DVD-RW IDE optical drive
Primo P4 ATX Mid Tower Case with 500w Power Supply
Added a GeForce 7600 PCI x16 for OS X
Added a Realtek 8139 PCI ethernet card for OS X

I am NOT doing any overclocking.

Thing's I've tried:

-- CMOS Battery (CR2032) was dead, at least my tester showed it just in the red, right below the green, so I thought, "AHA!" and went to get a new battery today. Tested it before installing, it showed a full charge. Did the jumper thing on the motherboard that clears the CMOS cache. Put in new battery - no difference. Dammit!

-- Backside of motherboard shorted against the case? I pulled the motherboard, which was carefully stood-off when I installed it, completely out of the case, laid it on a dry towel, and connected only the 2 power connectors to the board, monitor to the on-board video connector, and one stick of RAM (tried both sticks, one at a time). Attempted to power up to see if I'd get the POST beep - it should POST and show me the BIOS screen even if no drives are connected, right? But nothing. Just the PSU, CPU and case fans come on. No beep, no BIOS screen.

-- Power Supply? Pulled the power supply motherboard connector. Using a paper clip, I jumped the green and black pins to power up the PSU while the connector was unhooked. The PSU fan runs fine. With a digital multimeter, I tested all pins on the 24-pin ATX power connector, plus the 4-pin CPU power connector. All the voltages are correct. the 3.3v, 5.0v, and 12.0v values are all spot-on. I realize that is with no load, but it is something.

-- When the machine was running in XP, the ASUS motherboard monitoring app showed all voltages and temperatures to be normal. I rarely saw the CPU go above 45 Celsius.

-- Seating of RAM, Video Card, Ethernet? Pulled everything and re-seated it. Tried both RAM sticks, one at a time.

-- IDE Issue? Tried every possible permuation of Master/Slave, Primary/Secondary on the IDE chain with my IDE devices, plus every IDE cable I have lying around (which is quite a few). Also tried no IDE at all. No difference.

I'm at my wits' end! I am thinking the board is dead, since the PSU seems to test out, and on the rare occassion when the machine does boot normally, it runs with perfect stability for days and days in either XP or OS X, never had any sudden shutdowns out of nowhere.

Thanks for any help, all you Obi Wans out there.
 

Sathar

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I'm curious what progress you've made, since I'm in a very similar boat.

I'm at work right now, so I can't rattle off my system specs, but they aren't too different from yours besides an Intel dual core, both gigs being Crucial, and both drives being SATA (primary is a single drive, secondary is a striped RAID). Oh, and the MB is a P5n32-E SLI .

Like you, the biggest detail is that the system worked (more or less) perfectly for the past 18 months, other than the occasional burp. I've made no significant hardware changes for months, and other than some drivers, no big changes to software, either (running XP SP2, 32 bit).

The chronology of my pain:

Yesterday morning, system behaved normally. While it was idle (I was walking over to wake it up), I saw a BSoD (my first in months). Started to reboot, and when I came back a few minutes later, saw a dreaded "System drive failure, insert boot disk" or something equally heart-stopping. Figured my C: head crashed, but didn't have time to troubleshoot.

Came back later, flipped on the power, BIOS POSTed, then went blank. I could hear a faint, regular clicking that sounded like it was coming from the HDD, but the dreaded disk failure didn't come up, just nothing (I may not have waited long enough).

After that, every time I cycle the power, I get what you get: fans spin, MB pilot light is on, no POST, no beeps, no video signal, even my keyboard lights stay dark.

I haven't started disassembling the system, yet, especially after reading so many people saying that wiping the CMOS did nothing. First up, I'm not even sure if my problem is my HDD, my MB, both, or neither, and I'd rather not spend the next month replacing everything piecemeal by trial and error.

Sorry if I'm hijacking your thread, but yours is the first I've seen that relates to a previously working system instead of a fresh build.

 

Grantt

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I have two computers that I put together around the same time, one for my dad and one for my daughter. They both started having problems about six months apart and since I couldn't quickly figure it out I put them aside until I had time to work on them.

The symptoms: Each computer had the exact same symptoms. During use they would shut down. The symptoms increased in regularity until one would only stay on 2 to 5 seconds and the other would stay on until you tried to open a program our it just wouldn't boot.

The first would computer would not beep at startup and would not but, after the fan, harddrive and other activity started it would just shut down, no beeps. The other gave me 4 short beeps.

I could not have built two more different computers. One was a foxconn motherboard, the other a gigabyte motherboard. One was linux the other was windows xp.

The only thing that was common between the two pc's was the same Austin ATX power supply.

I switched the power supplies and when I did that the computers traded symptoms.

It makes me mad that is was so easy, I hope others can recognize the symptoms before trashing a mother board because power supplies are cheaper and easier to swap.

On a power supply testing note, I am not even an electronics hack, but I do own a multimeter. I poked my multimeter points into the end of one of the ide cables. red and black, the reading off the power supply that caused my computer to shut down in 3-5 seconds read 17.5 volts and the reading from the one that shut down when I tried to run a program ranged 3-7 volts, I think they were both supposed to read 12.

I only share that because there just isn't enough information out there and we should all share more details.
Good luck,
Grant
 

Silences444

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I am having the exact same issues as the OP and Sathar. I have tried everything the OP did as well, but I am thinking I will try replacing the PSU first before going through the hassel of getting a new MB. I am curious how this ends up and hope to see the OP post his results on whatever he ends up doing! :)
 

jpeck

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Wow, this sounds identical to the problem I had last night. Fans are working, motherboard light is on but no beeps and seemingly no video signal being transmitted. When I try and do a hard power down with the power button on the front, I get no response. It can power the system on, but the only way to turn it off is via the PSU switch on the back of the case.

I am having trouble finding the CMOS jumper (not quite as tech savvy as some) but also have the same ASUS P5N32-E SLI mobo. Any suggestions would be appreciated..
 

irene72

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have you recieved any responses to your problem I am experiencing the same
 

Aidoneus1

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Bump. Same problem here. Home-built system worked beautifully for 18 months, then yesterday while watching a movie on the computer, it suddenly freezes (no blue screen this time, though I had gotten several blue screens earlier the same day - "Driver IRQL not less than or equal", "Page fault in non-paged area", "System_Service_Exception").

This was the nastiest freeze I have ever gotten, as neither Ctrl+Alt+Delete nor anything else could get a further response from the system. So I turned off the system using power button (I have to hold for four seconds to turn off), and afterwards it would not reboot. Case LED lights come on and the fans come on, but no POST, nothing gets sent to monitor, and I don't get the usual beep from the MoBo. The fans I'm talking about are the case fans (2x 120 mm both connected straight to the MoBo), PS fan, and graphics card fan .... I can't confirm CPU fan yet, as the aftermarket cooler mostly uses the large Cu heatsink anyway and always keeps system at < 32 C idle, 45 C under 100% load [Prime95 stress]).

Specs:

Intel Core 2 Duo e4500 @ 2.2 Ghz (wasn't running it overclocked during crash)
Gigabyte P35-DS3L S-series Motherboard (LGA 775 MoBo)
450-W PSU
4 x 1-gb Kingston DDR2-667 RAM
XFX Geforce 9800 GT 512 MB Graphics Card (replaced old 7200 card about three months ago)
WD 320 gb HDD (one and only hard drive)
Windows Vista Home Premium (latest service pack + updates)


I had purchased the MoBo brand new (almost two years ago), and was hoping to keep it around for a little longer, until I can upgrade to a Core i7/Socket 1366 system.

But before I order a new board, have any of you who have this same problem found a less-expensive solution? I've heard that resetting the CMOS and tinkering with the PSU haven't exactly helped this particular situation. Any input would be tremendously helpful.

Also, can anyone recommend a good, reliable brand for a new motherboard? Many of the MoBo problems I've read about on forums seem to be with Asus boards, and my current, presumably-dead one is a Gigabyte, so I'd like to avoid those two brands in the future, if possible ... I believe it's cheaper in the long run to get a motherboard that will last a respectable amount of time, rather than a cheap one that is likely to die in several months anyways. Thanks in advance for any helpful advice. =D


 

nubi

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Please add me to the list. System has worked since March of 06. A couple of weeks ago after a shut down it would not start. The fans would run HARD, the amber light which I associate with the hard drive activity would come on solid, there was no video, the amber light would go out. NO BIOS. I shut down and disconnected everything. I opened the unit. I then hooked everything back up and it started. The problem would come back after a shut down off and on. I noticed that with a good start, the fans immediately slow and quite and the amber light blinks as the system boots and the video comes up for a normal start sequence with XP. I decided to test the battery and found that while less than 3 volts, it was not much less. I changed it anyway. First reboot was successful. Problem returned. I had remembered seeing some white spot in the video, like snow, just prior to these start up problems. So I figured that I had a bad power supply. I replaced that. Good first start. Then problem returns. Like the rest of you I am stumped. That's what's brought me here. So far I've not seen anyone actually solve the problem. Because of the fact the fans all run so hard during a bad start, I am wondering if there is some sort of defective temp sensor that is keeping the system from starting to protect itself. At any rate I'll keep searching and if I find something I'll post back. P.S. I did try to start the system with a bootable usb device, but did not even get to bios.

Nubi
 

suemccartin

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Hi folks, all these things could be bad ram. My main box worked perfectly till it started having random shut offs etc. Replaced ram with some spares I had no more issues, sent the bad stick off for replacement; yeah lifetime warranty. Power supply can also go wonky for no reason, again have sparest to test but more than likely it's a bad memory stick. Swap sticks around or remove them all and put one in at a time, good way to test.
 

westom

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What is "spot on" - an answer that should report each voltage to three significant digits.

Measuring a power supply without being connected to the computer means a defective power supply can measure good. Your measurements must occur without making any disconnects.

Go back. Let's establish what is good - step by step. In this case in about 30 seconds.

Measure (and report to three significant digits) voltage on the purple wire where that wire connect to motherboard (push probe inside the nylon connector).

Also measure voltage on the green and gray wires both before and when power switch is pressed. Report those numbers and behavior as switch is pressed.

I expect these numbers to remain constant at zero. However these numbers are also important. Measure voltages on any one of orange, red, and yellow wires as the switch is pressed.

The power supply is only one component of the power 'system'. Once those numbers are posted, then the 'system' will be defined AND you will learn what those wires actually do.

Meter tests far more than the battery tester. For example, if the cell was 2.8 volts, then the battery was still good but ready for replacement maybe in the next 6 months. If the battery was zero (as suggested), then the motherboard may have a serious problem. Better than any battery tester is a multimeter due to so much information imbedded in its three digit number.

Maybe confirm the new battery has proper voltages without removing the battery. Most likely will be good - above 3.0 volts. However you are there with a meter. Confirm that a motherboard problem does not exist.

Once the power supply 'system' is known good, then numerous other suspects can be dealt with. Before anything else can be moved from 'unknown' to 'good', first the entire power supply system must be moved from 'unknown' to 'good'. Currently that entire system is still 'unknown'.
 

compdude61

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:cry: Gee's! I'm glad I found this topic cause my HP Pavilion A6437C (see specs on HP support.com ) Slimline Desktop E2200 Intel Foxconn NAPA mobo is doing the the very same indentical thing. Have this concern posted on many other computer forum sites & on HP support forums. As usual, HP wants me to send it to them for testing & yeh! they want my hard earned money & they charge too much. The Foxconn mATX board has 12 volts power to all the plug & play devices. The hsf spins up fast for a second then slows down. The frt. power lite comes on blue & the psu lite comes on as well & the fan is spinning. All fans are running & the hdd is spinning. Tried a new bios programmed chip. Tried new cmos batt & jumper pins procedure. It has no usb, monitor,mouse,keybaord or sound. No beeps. The ethernet port on board is lit up. When the system powers up, the keyboard lites at the top lite up for a second then go out. Kinda like the board has a short internally. Tried a new 400 watt psu. Done all the testing. even took the board out. Tried a 4 digit post card but not too familiar with all the codes it sets. Hard to decifer them. :pt1cable: I'm thinking the mobo is gone or it might be a bios concern. Having a hard time trying to figure out how to make a bootable cd so I can make a bios flash cd. HP has a file that may fix it for system hangs that has a memory card reader. Bought this pc off EBayknowing it had this problem. Real nice pc if I could just get it up & running again. Sure would be nice if all that had this problem would post back with their problem fix, if they got them fixed. Thats why were here isn't it? :)
 
The following thread was originally designed for problems with new builds. But the troubleshooting techniques will apply to any dead system.
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/page-261145_13_0.html

Most of these problems sound like power problems created by the use of cheap generic power supplies. Replacing one with another is not necessarily going to help. None of these systems require a lot of power, but they do need good PSU's: Corsair (my first choice), Seasonic, PC P&C, Antec Earthwatts (stay away from the Basiq line, they cut too many corners to hit their price point). There are a few other really good brands, but those come to mind.

Aidoneus, you are jumping to delusions. :) You do not even know for sure that your problem is caused by your Gigabyte motherboard. Granted, it might be. But right now, you do not know.

I have standardized on Gigabyte motherboards. I have 4 systems (2 highly overclocked) running on them, and so far, they have been very reliable.
 

compdude61

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:) I might if I may add one more statement then i'll shut up. When using my psu tester the -5 volt led does not lite up but the rest of them do. Is this a normal thing? This is a great site for suppor. Keep it up. :bounce:
 

westom

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-5V is normal. Other voltages could be completely defective. That tester reports only "it could be" answers. Did you read this since it applies to your tester: Measuring a power supply without being connected to the computer means a defective power supply can measure good. IOW tester reported nothing useful. Either you have "it could be" (which is what you had when you started). You know exactly what you knew before using the tester – it might be good or might be defective. "It is definitively this" answer is the only useful one. Numbers are required. How to do that was posted previously.

After a long list of 'changes' (none justified by any collected facts), a solution is no closer. For example, how many items do you now know are 'definitively good'? None.

Step one - learn what is wrong. Most of that is done without disconnecting even one wire and requires numbers. Step two - replace something only because something in step one identified the suspect. Currently you did not do the necessary work in step one. That means numbers.

You are thinking a motherboard might be bad. I (who even designed computers at the chip level) am thinking a majority of parts are still suspects - that you have no reasons to conclude due to insufficient facts and information. So that I can provide even one useful answer, you must provide those requested numbers. Otherwise, just keep wildly replacing parts until something works.

Did you know about the power supply controller? CPU is a slave to it. Critical. And completely unknown until you provide those 3 digit numbers. Just one of many devices defined ‘definitively’ by a few numbers. You have no idea, yet, how much information is in those few numbers.
 

compdude61

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Thanks Westom! I'll have to study your reply more carefully to understand the number thing. If you were talking about using a psu tester with digital readout. Mine simply has lites only. Now! I do have a four digit pci testing card That goes into the pci slot or can go into the ISA slot but it will not respond to the ISA slot for some reason. I do believe the psu is working fine cause I installed a new 400 watt in it's place but had no affect. A larger wattage but should make no differance. I went through all the testing like your testing procedure said to & have come to a conclusion that the mobo may be the culprit. I really like this site cause it has many helpful tips that most sites don't have. Keep up the good work. I'll keep digging. Thanks again! David
 

westom

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A power supply tester with numbers is a multimeter. That tester with lights reports nothing useful and costs almost as much as the meter. Meters are sold mostly where hammers are sold – Lowes. K-mart.

Nothing requires study. Collect numbers and post them. Then learn what those numbers report - later.

Your IO bus tester is a useful and powerful tool. But long before going there, first collect those multimeter numbers. Just doing this stuff in that order means learning far more than you originally expected.

A defective power supply can boot a computer. A perfectly good supply can be defective in an otherwise good system. More examples of why swapping parts discovers little that is useful. Swapping parts (shotgunning) easily leads to erroneous conclusions for reasons too complex to discuss here. Get those numbers with multimeter because every answer will then not result in "I feel it might be". Those numbers mean your first definitive answer.

Don’t even look anywhere else. Don’t even ask why. Just get those numbers.
 

compdude61

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:) Well Westom! As I would have expected, the psu readings were all w/in specs. You can't rely on some of those psu testing help sites to be accurate on their help topics guides. One site was kinda off on guiding me in the right direction. But I got it down pac. I think i'll try the bios reflash procedure after I figure out how to make a bootable cd on my working machine & pop it into my HP. Still having problems with that. As I had mentioed earlier HP did have a update reflash SP4111 for my model mobo stalling with a memory card reader. That's my last testing then if it doesn't help then i'm getting a mobo. I'm exhausted on all the testing i've done. I plan on learning how to repair pcb's & replacing componants on the boards also. I know something about soldering pcb's. Want to learn more about how to test the capacitors to see if their bad since their the most common componant that go bad. All mine look good. Thanks for your guidance & helpful tips. David :)
 

westom

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compdude61

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:) Hey Westom! I believe I have found my problem & it's not with the psu. It's a problem with the bios configurations. I've been doing some research on this matter & i'm thinking the person who owned this before might have tried to reflash the bios & it locked up on him. I did some Googling & the new bios updates from other viewers who flashed it to their similar desktops but another model with the same Foxconn NAPA GL8E had the same problem as mine. They had to take the computer to the shop & have them reconfigure the bios. to get it up & running again. Now I believe I could perform it if I could only figure out how to use BartPe software & create a bootable cd & burn it using my LightScribe DVD/RW drive on working computer then pop it into my HP machine. The reason I think it might work cause when I turn on my HP machine & all power goes to all my hardware the DVD/RW drives starts flashing rapidly so I know thats how the bios is configurated in the bios ofthe HP machine. I'm not too familiar with how to create the bootable cd in the BartPe software but i'm trying to lean. It states it can also be done in a MsDos environment. Man! :pt1cable: thats way over my head on how to do it. Have you performed this prodedure before? Thanks for any comments on this matter. David
 

westom

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The problem with your research is that 20 different problems can create the same symptom. If 'A can create Z', then only 'A creates Z'? No. B, C, D, E ... also can create your Z symptoms.

If the BIOS did not flash properly, that computer cannot work - will not do what you posted. Either the BIOS loaded, or the old BIOS remains, or computer does nothing. Configuring BIOS is different from loading a BIOS. Configuring is changing setting (numbers and flags) in the CMOS - not loading a BIOS program.

Meanwhile, nothing posted says the power system is working. Your symptoms are also created by bad power. Evidence says BIOS is properly loaded and that the power system will not let BIOS execute. If the BIOS does not execute - an example of 'K can create Z'.

DOS is simply Windows where you type in the words on a command line rather than click an icon to enter those same words.

You even have a four digit pci testing card. That board will work immediately - but only if the power supply system first creates a signal that says, "Execute". Your board implies hardware is not creating that signal. So BIOS would never execute. You are making conclusions from flashing lights that can flash even when the motherboard computer does not work.

After so much labor, what is on a list of 'known good' items? Nothing. You have not yet accomplished anything. Until you post those power supply numbers and other requested facts, then nothing useful can arrive in reply. You are spending time reading wild speculation from people who did not even design this stuff. I did. You get no useful response from me because the facts - especially numbers - I need to be helpful are not provided.

Never move on to more suspects until the first one is vetted. Is it 'definitively good' or 'definitively bad'? Nobody knows. Everything is still 'undefined'. Nothing has been accomplished. That is how accomplishment is measured. Instead you are seeking solutions from people posting hearsay. 30 seconds to get power supply numbers means we can move on to the next suspect - even make that four digit pci testing card useful. But that means doing the first things requested - stop seeking answers from witch doctors and hearsay.

You still have nothing that says even the power supply system is working - other than some speculation. Until those numbers are provided, the power supply system remains 'undefined' - and nothing is accomplished. Doing all that research only discovers ghosts if the power system is undefined.

You must post those numbers to make step one towards a solution. Otherwise just keep replacing parts until something works. That is your only other alternative.
 

compdude61

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:) Gretttings Westom! Hers my reading from the psu- the 24 pin rd/pk-5.17-r-5.17-y-12.24-purple-4.99-5.0r-5.0--5.0 both lg. orange wires- 3.35- blue-11.97 grn.-4.53. Now with it powering up-lg.orange-3.28-3.35-lg. rd/pk-5.03-5.16-grn-0.21-0.03-lg-rd-5.17-5.11-yel-11.83-12.25-blue-8.64-12.23. Cpu 4 pin yellow-12.24. Molex 4 pin-yellow-12.24-rd-5.17-floppy 4 pin-yellow-12.24-rd-5.16. 4 pin Cpu fan while powering up- yellow-11.24-12.12,24-rd-12.10-12.24-blue-3.48-2.48. The cpu fan brings up my attention cause the fan spins up fast when powered up then slows down to a crawl. Need any other readings let me know. Sorry for all the garbled up mess of #'s. I was going to copy & paste a pdf file from a site I downloaded from about the atx psu specs for testing the voltages but would not let me paste it here. :sweat: Thanks for all your support. David
 

westom

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If I understand what was posted. References to -r or lg. are confusing. Therefore means I somewhat doubt some of what I have read.

A) When power is off:
Green wire: Is that +4.53 volts (not -4.53)? 4.53 volts would be normal.
Gray wire: - not listed AND a critically important signal.
Purple wire: a stable 4.99 or 5.00 volts. But I don't understand what all those other following numbers mean.

Blue wire: is that -11.97 or + 11.97 volts. Either way, that is defective.
Orange wire: -3.35 or 3.35 volts. Again, defective.
-r: Is that red? 5.17 volts. Again defective.
-y: Is that yellow? 12.24 volts. Again defective.

Each is defective because there must be no voltage as ordered by the green wire.

B) Moving on to "with it powering up-". First should be listed are the green, gray, and purple wires.
Green: Is that 0.21? I don't know what 0.03 is. However those numbers would be OK.
Purple wire not listed.
Gray wire not listed.

lg.orange: Do you mean orange? Is that 3.28 within a second? 3.28 volts is marginal when considering other voltages. But within spec and sufficient to permit booting.
rd/pk: Is that red? 5.03 or 5.16 volts is good.
yel: Yellow wire at 11.83 or 12.25 is good.
blue: Not asked for and not relevant.

By guessing (only a preliminary conclusion) - those voltages are stable. However the critical gray wire voltages are not provided. Power off voltages on red, orange, and yellow make no sense; imply a problem and a reason for weird computer operation. Are those numbers correct or did I simply read what was posted wrong?

The gray, orange, yellow, and red wire voltages should change in response to the power switch and be stable within a second. With meter delays, stability could take less than two seconds. But the red, orange, and yellow wires must be stable faster than the gray wire. I am guessing that is what you saw and need confirmation.

What you are looking at: Purple wire is power to the controller electronics so that it can monitor the power switch and remember how the switch was last pressed. Green wire is the power supply controller ordering the power supply to power on. Those 0. 2 and less voltage numbers mean the supply should power on AND that a sufficient safety margin exists - that other hardware parts in that circuit are working properly. Just a sampling of so much more information embedded in those numbers.

You report voltages on the red, orange, and yellow wires when none should exist. Are you reporting correctly or is hardware defective?

Voltages on other connectors are irrelevant. Fan defaults to full on. Then fan controller hardware takes over to throttle back that fan. Fan reports little other than its and its controller is working. Not relevant to your problem.

Posting those ATX specs and *.pdfs provides nothing useful. Other facts necessary to 'massage' those numbers are not found there. For example, what number does the spec give for yellow wire? 11.4 volts? A reading of 11.7 or less means a defective power supply (especially later when the system is truly drawing a load and the supply can be fully confirmed). Also relevant are relations between those numbers. But for now, we are only concerned about those numbers during boot.

These numbers only discuss whether the system should boot. Other numbers taken with the system fully loaded will determine if the system is fully OK. Irrelevant for now. Before definitively answers that boot question, first, 1) what are the numbers on the red, orange, purple, and yellow wires when the system is powered off? And 2) what are the gray wire numbers? Only then do we move on to the next step.

BTW, you motherboard should have some type of speaker or sound (beeping) device? Does it? Another important diagnostic tool only if your board has some beeping device. Does the board beep or can you identify a small round 'beeping' device?

Finally, this is an HP? Which model number so that HP information specific to your machine can be obtained from the HP web site?

OK. With missing information provided and corrections to what was posted, we may have achieved one step towards a solution. Sentences 1) and 2) first must be answered.

 

compdude61

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:cry: Hey Westom! i'm deeply sorry for those goofups. Maybe this will explain alot better. I spent an hour last night testing it correctly. The model is a HP A6437C Foxconn NAPA GL8E mATX with a Intel E2200 dual core cpu & a Asus HSF.Yes it does have a onboard speaker but it does not beep at all. Nothing coming out of speakers either. This board does not have a on board lite like some do to tell you the board is powering up. The keyboard lites nums,caps & scroll when machine powers up come on for a split second then go out. The HSF spins up rapidly when powers up then slows down to a crawl like iI mentioned earlier in my post. If I unplug the 4pin cpu power plug on the board, the fan spins up fast & stays fast like something is dragging it down. Plug it back in & it slows down again.

20 pin readings by pin numbers with psu on not powered up Powered up readings with button pressed
1--0.00 11- 0.00
2--0.00 12-0.01 1. +3.28 to +3.35
3- com 13-com 2. +3.10 to +3.35
4- 0.02 14-+4.53 4. +4.90 to +5.17
6-0.02 16-com 8. +0.06 to +5.07
7-0.00 17-com 9. +4.99 to +4.99
8-0.00 18-blank 10. +11.83 to +12.25
9- +4.99 19-0.02 11. +3.33 to +3.35
10- 0.00 20-0.02 14. power off 4.53 to power on 0.05 to 0.03
19. +4.59 to +5.17
Now powered up on statis 20. +4.28 to +5.16
1. +3.35 11. +3.35
2. 3.35 12. -12.21
3. -com 13. com
4. +5.16 14. 0.03
5. com 15. com
6. +5.16 16. com
7. com 17. com
8. +5.07 18. blank
9. +4.98 19. +5.16
10. +12.23 20. +5.16

The Molex,floppy,cpu 4 pin readings are good.
You know, I mentioed earlier that I had tested it with a new psu 400 watt & it stiil would not boot. ( had the same pins) as my existing 250 watt psu.
The monitor goes into power save mode & the monitor lite power button just flashes on & off. Let me know if this helped. While I wait for a response back,I am going to install a exter floppy drive & see if the floppy port on the board will have power & read the floppy drive.

I really hope this explains it more better for you
I really do appreciate your concern & support indeed. David
During this process I am learning more about spacing my paragraphs correctly.
Hope it's not that bad.
 

compdude61

Distinguished
Jun 6, 2009
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18,530
Missing powered readingswith button pressed.
1. +3.28 to +3.35
2. +3.10 to +3.35
4. +4.90 to +5.17
8. +0.06 to+5.07
9. +4.99 to+4.99
10. +11.83 to+12.25
11. +3.33 to +3.35
14. power off +4.53 to power on 0.05 to0.03
19. +4.59 to +5.17
20. +4.28 to +5.16

Dont know why they missed that when I submitted it.
 

jaredlund

Distinguished
Aug 7, 2009
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18,510



Hey what are your system specs? I just now found out that my CPU is a 125W and my board supports only 95W. I believe that my MB has possibly fried.
 
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