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Watercooling Configuration

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  • Heatsinks
  • Water Cooling
  • Configuration
  • Swiftech
  • Overclocking
Last response: in Overclocking
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May 25, 2009 9:44:57 PM

This is my hypothetical watercooling configuration in an NZXT Beta along with a BFG GS-550 PSU. Is it OK?
Advice appreciated.

Pump: Swiftech MCP655-B

Radiator: Danger Den X-Flow Black Ice Pro (2, would you recommend the regular Black Ice Pro or the X-Flow?)

CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee GT (I will be using either a Q8200 or E8400)

VGA Block: Swiftech MCW60-R (I will be using an ATI 4850)

Tubing: 10 ft. ClearFlex 60 1/2 inch ID

Coolant: 32 oz. Danger Den MCT-5

Accessories: Danger Den Fillport (fill)
Danger Den Polypropylene T-Fitting
Danger Den Delrin Fillport (drain)
Danger Den Hose Clamps (15)

More about : watercooling configuration

a c 86 K Overclocking
May 25, 2009 10:16:22 PM

Us guys have done the WC thing, there are basics you gotta know. Take a look, don't take it as a diss on you or a rebuttal, look at as a friend saying "Dude, you gotta know what to say and how to communicate".
.......................................
CPU HS $65
GPU HS and air HS for vram and mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
Radiator $60 min, up to $130
Pump $50 +
Resiviour $25
Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
Fans $15-30

I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU.
First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
Spend a while (weeks is best for your sanity) at these links.
Look at the hundreds of loops close to your case and components in the stickies, read a couple 50 or so threads over the next week or so, you'll be on the ball to make the right choices and by then know how to put it together.
Not 'Roket Sience', but basic knowledge is required.
And you should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads. It's how we learn. Once the goodies show up on your doorstep your on your own.
For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. At the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC Forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.

Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.

Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky.
............................
Edit: The next paragraph was from 2008. With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big overclocks, better go 320 sized rad.
................................

IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.

Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.
,…………………………………………………………
Here is the poop on solid info on air/water temps. The link is to an MCR320.
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Swifte...20-Review.html
Scroll half way down and you can see the in/out air diff on the chart. It depends, like I said on fannage what the out air temp vs. the in temp is.

You can also see the water in/out is very close in temps. No more than 1.5 C. Amazing eh? I thought so too once I deciphered the charts.

So if you put a second rad with good airflow, you still get good results. Fannage needs to be higher to compensate for the increased air restriction. Meaning double fans on the rad setup, but it's a viable solution.

Equilibrium (tough word) means with a set heat load (idle/load) after an amount of time temps in a WC loop will stabilize. The heat load is the same, ambient air is the same, fannage is the same, pumps are the same, size of rads are the same, temps will stabilize for those conditions. Any of these parameters change, it has to stabilize. …………………………………………………………
Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……..
Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Rinse in 10 min or so. Put aside.
The bocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean.
All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. Run a rag using a caat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well.
Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
That’s it.
………………………………………………………
Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
These are pretty standard and used by many.
Monitoring the PC temps overall: HWmonitor aka hardware monitor
CPUZ for CPU info
GPUZ for GPU info
CPU only: RealTemp
GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia

Loading/benching tools:
CPU loaders: Prime95 and OCCT
GPU Loaders: ATI Tool and the best one is Furmark, nothing pushes the GPU harder right now.
Benching for overall graphics/gaming performance is 3DMark06
……………………………………………………………
Guides
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=... Pretty up to date info and buying guide
 verclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=86" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://gilgameshreviews.com/index.php?option=com_conten... Another good guide
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=... What to do once all the stuff is in the door

Forums
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/inde [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/ Decent site

Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests
http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22... More rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/ Host for Martins lab and some newer tests
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/ Test results, very technical


Stores
http://www.dangerden.com/index.php [...] e&Itemid=1
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com

May 25, 2009 10:23:04 PM

Daaaaang, that's solid! Thanks for the time you took replying! I really appreciate the advice. :D 
Related resources
a c 86 K Overclocking
May 25, 2009 10:58:48 PM

Hey, no time at all, been building it for over a year, just a cut n paste. I reposted the info, it was updated so look at it again. New guides etc.
May 26, 2009 2:54:11 PM

Good choice on the pump.

The radiator is really thin I would only suggest that if you are fitting it into a limited space.

Can you get a swiftech gtz, or (dangerden mc-tdx or hk3 or ek supreme) cpu block instead, much better performers.

I noticed you didn't include a reservoir, I personally don't like/use them (I prefer t-lines), but others don't agree with me :) 

With that case you will not be mounting the rad internally (top ps, mb all the way to the bottom, sideways drives...)
so you are likely going to need a rad-box and hang it off the back.

If you got mad modding skillz, consider how you might mount a heater core (like a '68 bonnie)
its $35 and it beats the best of the triple rads, but its not as easy to work with.
a c 337 K Overclocking
May 26, 2009 4:06:33 PM

I run that pump and waterblock(s) on my cards.

FrozenCPU is a little more expensive than other sites, but they have a lot of modding and cooling components. I like Petra's Tech Shop if I know of specific WC components I want.
a b K Overclocking
May 26, 2009 9:07:55 PM

Quote:
Pump: Swiftech MCP655-B

Radiator: Danger Den X-Flow Black Ice Pro (2, would you recommend the regular Black Ice Pro or the X-Flow?)

CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee GT (I will be using either a Q8200 or E8400)

VGA Block: Swiftech MCW60-R (I will be using an ATI 4850)

Looks good, but imo, if you have the money and planing to go with an i7 WCed down the road investing in a GTZ and a second/bigger rad would be a good idea.
May 27, 2009 4:15:01 AM

Oh, a few quick questions: Will the MCR-320 work with a Radbox, or will it block the PSU? Will I only be able to use the 220 and below? Also, what would be a good additive to plain distilled water? Thanks.
a c 86 K Overclocking
May 27, 2009 5:09:37 AM

Yes it'll work fine with the radbox. You can't limit yourself to a radiator size because it's in the way, won't fit etc. You always always make it work. You can't get past the law of physics. Rads dissipate heat. If the rad needs to be xx size to dissipate your heat load, you have no choice.

The rad box will put the rad about 1.5 inches away from the case. If not enough you buy long screws and nuts or make your own standoffs to stand it out farther. Been done a bazillion times. Be craetive, one of the fun parts of watercooling.

The best additive is Ians Silver Kill coil, you put it in the tubing. Petras also has the best biocide. PHN Nuke, one tiny bottle lasts for 20 loops or so, a few drops is all you need.
May 28, 2009 4:19:11 AM

Also, would you mind ranking these tubings from worst to best?

ClearFlex 60
Masterkleer
Tygon
Feser UV

If you don't think too much of these tubings, recommendations are welcome.
:D 
May 28, 2009 4:25:25 AM

Tygon is the best, and most expensive...
I prefer clearflex60 easy to bend/get over fittings 1/2 the price of tygon.
masterkleer is the stuff you get at homedepot, works fine but can be a pain to make sharp bends, get on and off fittings.

UV is not my thing, so I'll let someone else comment on that
a c 86 K Overclocking
May 28, 2009 5:31:26 AM

Tygon
Primochill LRT UV
Feser UV
Rest is cheap, and worth the hassle of every penny you saved.
!