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CoolIt Domino A.L.C. : Can I change the fan?

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June 4, 2009 3:46:55 AM

As the title says, I was wondering if you could change the fan on the CoolIt Domino.
I was considering getting the Domino but I don't really care for the fan that comes with it.
It can get loud.
I don't like loud.
D:
a c 86 K Overclocking
June 4, 2009 3:51:52 AM

Ohh thats a problem. It needs to be loud to pump enough air through the fins.

You could replace the fan with a low speed Yate Loon or any other quality low speed fan, but your temps will be very very bad. You need high CFM for the cooler to even perform okay.

It's a poor excuse for a cooler really. Please stay away from the Coolit series. Even the high end ones have high failure rates. Like plugs melting........

It really depends on your needs, CPU, overclocks, case design etc if you can even get away with lower speed fans. But the best rated HS cooler and great case airflow is all you can do.

Grr what is that awesome most up to date air HS review site? brain fart, I need to bookmark it.

Anyway, if you got a Thermalright TRUE, a V8, or a Meglahem cooler you can't really do better than those 3. Your fannage will depend on your usage. But two meduim Yate Loons on a TRUE is usually enough for just about anyone.

June 4, 2009 4:00:04 AM

I was thinking find a way to get the Thermaltake Silent cat on there as an exhaust.

It's just I don't want anything to heavy hanging off my Mobo since I move my case a lot.
And Since the domino is pre-filled with coolant I would think it's fine to move around some.
Related resources
a c 86 K Overclocking
June 4, 2009 4:15:19 AM

Sure, buy a cooler that is less capable than others and prone to failure. I know of peeps that LAN every weekend with a Thermalright TRUE on thier mobo every weekend.

Here is the link, I remembered.
http://www.frostytech.com/

Your money.

You want a real WC rig? Great temps and quiet? Here is a buncha links. Expect $250 as your starting budget.

Guides
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=... Pretty up to date info and buying guide
 verclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=86" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://gilgameshreviews.com/index.php?option=com_conten... Another good guide
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=... What to do once all the stuff is in the door

Forums
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/inde [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/ Decent site

Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests
http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22... More rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/ Host for Martins lab and some newer tests
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/ Test results, very technical


Stores
http://www.dangerden.com
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com


June 4, 2009 4:25:54 AM

Thanks for all those links.
I'm looking through them now.
<3

But wouldn't you have to be careful to not turn the Computer on it side and make sure it stays perttymuch perfectly vertical all the time for WC?
a c 86 K Overclocking
June 4, 2009 4:39:58 AM

Really not at all, you close the resiviour (fill point) when loop is done. The big problem with watercooling is making the parts fit, usaully getting a bigger case. You'll learn a lot with those links. Don't rush it, takes a week or two of reaearch (not 10 min a night) to even understand watercooling. Ahh heck... Full massive cut n paste:

Us guys have done the WC thing, there are basics you gotta know. Take a look, don't take it as a diss on you or a rebuttal, look at as a friend saying "Dude, you gotta know what to say and how to communicate".
.......................................
CPU HS $65
GPU HS and air HS for vram and mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
Radiator $60 min, up to $130
Pump $50 +
Resiviour $25
Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
Fans $15-30

I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU.
First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
Spend a while (weeks is best for your sanity) at these links.
Look at the hundreds of loops close to your case and components in the stickies, read a couple 50 or so threads over the next week or so, you'll be on the ball to make the right choices and by then know how to put it together.
Not 'Roket Sience', but basic knowledge is required.
And you should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads. It's how we learn. Once the goodies show up on your doorstep your on your own.
For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. At the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC Forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.

Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.

Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky. Look here too…. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22...
............................
Edit: The next paragraph was from 2008. With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big overclocks, better go 320 sized rad.
................................

IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.

Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.
,…………………………………………………………
Here is the poop on solid info on air/water temps. The link is to an MCR320.
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Swifte...20-Review.html
Scroll half way down and you can see the in/out air diff on the chart. It depends, like I said on fannage what the out air temp vs. the in temp is.

You can also see the water in/out is very close in temps. No more than 1.5 C. Amazing eh? I thought so too once I deciphered the charts.

So if you put a second rad with good airflow, you still get good results. Fannage needs to be higher to compensate for the increased air restriction. Meaning double fans on the rad setup, but it's a viable solution.

Equilibrium (tough word) means with a set heat load (idle/load) after an amount of time temps in a WC loop will stabilize. The heat load is the same, ambient air is the same, fannage is the same, pumps are the same, size of rads are the same, temps will stabilize for those conditions. Any of these parameters change, it has to stabilize. …………………………………………………………
Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……..
Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Rinse in 10 min or so. Put aside.
The bocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean.
All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. Run a rag using a caat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well.
Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
That’s it.
………………………………………………………
Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
These are pretty standard and used by many.
Monitoring the PC temps overall: HWmonitor aka hardware monitor
CPUZ for CPU info
GPUZ for GPU info
CPU only: RealTemp
GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia

Loading/benching tools:
CPU loaders: Prime95 and OCCT
GPU Loaders: ATI Tool and the best one is Furmark, nothing pushes the GPU harder right now.
Benching for overall graphics/gaming performance is 3DMark06
……………………………………………………………
Guides
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=... Pretty up to date info and buying guide
 verclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=86" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://gilgameshreviews.com/index.php?option=com_conten... Another good guide
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=... What to do once all the stuff is in the door

Forums
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/inde [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/ Decent site

Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests
http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22... More rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/ Host for Martins lab and some newer tests
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/ Test results, very technical


Stores
http://www.dangerden.com
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com



a b K Overclocking
June 4, 2009 10:50:40 PM

Quote:
But wouldn't you have to be careful to not turn the Computer on it side and make sure it stays perttymuch perfectly vertical all the time for WC?

Not necessarily. If your lines are secured well that shouldn't be a problem. I turn my WC PCs for cleaning out dust,etc, every 3-4 weeks and my lines don't come off. Now if you accidentally knocked it down with a decent amount of force then that could get messy. And +1 for Conumdrum, he knows what he's doing. Also a MAJOR factor for successful watercooling is getting QUALITY parts AND reading/listening to people who have already done it.
a b K Overclocking
June 5, 2009 6:16:09 AM

Conumdrum said:
Ohh thats a problem. It needs to be loud to pump enough air through the fins.

You could replace the fan with a low speed Yate Loon or any other quality low speed fan, but your temps will be very very bad. You need high CFM for the cooler to even perform okay.

It's a poor excuse for a cooler really. Please stay away from the Coolit series. Even the high end ones have high failure rates. Like plugs melting........

It really depends on your needs, CPU, overclocks, case design etc if you can even get away with lower speed fans. But the best rated HS cooler and great case airflow is all you can do.

Grr what is that awesome most up to date air HS review site? brain fart, I need to bookmark it.

Anyway, if you got a Thermalright TRUE, a V8, or a Meglahem cooler you can't really do better than those 3. Your fannage will depend on your usage. But two meduim Yate Loons on a TRUE is usually enough for just about anyone.


While discussing performance and pointing at big air, you forgot a link:

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/coolit-domino-cogag...

ouch.
a c 86 K Overclocking
June 5, 2009 7:37:12 AM

Sure Crash. What was that review supposed to do? You review one odd air cooler against one fail watercooler teeny rig. No ref to any other tests. Ohh yea, it's being done on other sites already, so no need to duplicate results. You folks get payed to review and link, it's how you pay for the rent, I know how it works. Review this, say it's xx, get $.02 for each link to the referred seller.

Why not review, with the same exact standards each month the top air coolers. You don't mention any other reviews or standards of testing or thermal paste used, ambient temps or any scientific info.

It's why your the 'Radio Shack' of real PC info. You have a lot, but it's all remote control cars and overpriced phone contracts. Informed peeps go elsewhere.

The review you posted is for people who like to read the Enquirer.
a b K Overclocking
June 5, 2009 9:47:51 AM

Conumdrum said:
Sure Crash. What was that review supposed to do? You review one odd air cooler against one fail watercooler teeny rig. No ref to any other tests. Ohh yea, it's being done on other sites already, so no need to duplicate results. You folks get payed to review and link, it's how you pay for the rent, I know how it works. Review this, say it's xx, get $.02 for each link to the referred seller.

Why not review, with the same exact standards each month the top air coolers. You don't mention any other reviews or standards of testing or thermal paste used, ambient temps or any scientific info.

It's why your the 'Radio Shack' of real PC info. You have a lot, but it's all remote control cars and overpriced phone contracts. Informed peeps go elsewhere.

The review you posted is for people who like to read the Enquirer.



1.) You don't need to know the ambient temperature because the temperatures reported are in "temperature above ambient". All you need to know is that it was held consistent withing 0.5C. so that the test conditions are as equal as possible.
2.) These companies include thermal interface material. BAD T.I.M. = test fails, I can't feel sorry for any company that provides bad components.
3.) The Domino was submitted first. The Cogage was accepted as a comparison part due to similar size and release timing. If money affected results, the "part the article was supposed to be about" should have been put in a better light.

:pt1cable: 
a b K Overclocking
June 5, 2009 4:21:33 PM

Conumdrum said:
Just found this. Interesting read on a tear down of a broken Domino. Waiting for the rad to be torn down. The CPU block internals are kinda ugg, bad.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/515404-domino-l-...


Like I pointed out earlier, all most of us really need to know is that an air cooler of similar size beats it.
a b K Overclocking
June 5, 2009 10:30:54 PM

Basically what we have known for years. Kit's/all in one/sealed loop are pretty much cr@p.
a b K Overclocking
June 6, 2009 1:28:43 AM

^Load or Idle?
a b K Overclocking
June 6, 2009 1:46:17 AM

Quote:
30C idle's
High 40C's with prime


Single-threaded.
a b K Overclocking
June 7, 2009 3:45:19 PM

^That's what I was thinking too.
a c 324 K Overclocking
June 8, 2009 3:20:09 PM

That sounds overly impressive for a component that has received fair to poor reviews at best. Where did you have that running to get those temps? Outside in the winter? The i7's are a beast and require a 3x120 rad for most WC loops...that domino uses, what, a single 120mm? I find it hard to believe the results for 1/3 the cooling area to be on par with a moderate to high-end loop.

I call shenannegans.
!