Help with cooling a QX6700(quad extreme 2.66)

im am very new to these forums so here it goes. before i state what i need help with let me just throw the specs of what i have so i can get the best answer here. i have:

EVGA 780i sli mobo
(x3) 1 gig Xms2 corsair ram running at 800
(x2) leadtek 8800 gtx 768mb cards sli'd and watercooled with Koolance blocks
(X2) WD 40gb raptors 10,000rpm
1 WD 250gb 7200rpm
OCZ 700 watt PSU
duo core 2 at 2.13 with Koolance block
Koolance exos2 setup.
xp pro

cool so i just bought a QX6700 off ebay and still awaiting its arrival. these past few days i have been researching for hours a cooling solution for this chip. i had my eyes on a CoolIt domino kit. read 8 or so reviews with 80% giving the kit a good direction to go for this chip since most tested with a quad extreme more powerful than mine. but then as i go through these forums that everday people write i see that kit is a bad idea amongst forumist.
my koolance exos 2 has a dual rad. i only have a temp sensor on the processor and the temps show 93-97 degrees F, 36 C roughly when doing simple things or idled. on load depending on what i do it hits around 100 degrees F. crysis on high it hits 115 F. room temp is around 69-75 most of the day. those temps are from cooling both gpu's and a core 2 duo.

i figure a quad extreme at 2.66 will need more cooling power than my exos 2 is giving correct? i did have the idea of adding another dual or even quad rad with the loop from the gpu going to the second rad, then that rad shoot cooled down water to the chip. can the exos pump even handle that? ideas anyone?
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More about help cooling qx6700 quad extreme
  1. Once you really see watercooling, you'll slowly replace the Koolance. best of luck, just a quick cut n paste of my standard wandering adds collected and written the last two years and always updated...................................................................

    Us guys have done the WC thing, there are basics you gotta know. Take a look, don't take it as a diss on you or a rebuttal, look at as a friend saying "Dude, you gotta know what to say and how to communicate".
    CPU HS $65
    GPU HS and air HS for vram and mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
    Radiator $60 min, up to $130
    Pump $50 +
    Resiviour $25
    Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
    Fans $15-30

    I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU.
    First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
    Spend a while (weeks is best for your sanity) at these links.
    Look at the hundreds of loops close to your case and components in the stickies, read a couple 50 or so threads over the next week or so, you'll be on the ball to make the right choices and by then know how to put it together.
    Not 'Roket Sience', but basic knowledge is required.
    And you should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads. It's how we learn. Once the goodies show up on your doorstep your on your own.
    For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. At the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC Forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.

    Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.

    Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky. Look here too….
    Edit: The next paragraph was from 2008. With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big overclocks, better go 320 sized rad.

    IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.

    Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.
    Here is the poop on solid info on air/water temps. The link is to an MCR320.
    Scroll half way down and you can see the in/out air diff on the chart. It depends, like I said on fannage what the out air temp vs. the in temp is.

    You can also see the water in/out is very close in temps. No more than 1.5 C. Amazing eh? I thought so too once I deciphered the charts.

    So if you put a second rad with good airflow, you still get good results. Fannage needs to be higher to compensate for the increased air restriction. Meaning double fans on the rad setup, but it's a viable solution.

    Equilibrium (tough word) means with a set heat load (idle/load) after an amount of time temps in a WC loop will stabilize. The heat load is the same, ambient air is the same, fannage is the same, pumps are the same, size of rads are the same, temps will stabilize for those conditions. Any of these parameters change, it has to stabilize.
    Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……
    Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
    For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Rinse in 10 min or so. Put aside.
    The bocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
    Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean.
    All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. Run a rag using a caat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well.
    Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
    Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
    That’s it.
    Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
    These are pretty standard and used by many.
    Monitoring the PC temps overall: HWmonitor aka hardware monitor
    CPUZ for CPU info
    GPUZ for GPU info
    CPU only: RealTemp
    GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia

    Loading/benching tools:
    CPU loaders: Prime95 and OCCT
    GPU Loaders: ATI Tool and the best one is Furmark, nothing pushes the GPU harder right now.
    Benching for overall graphics/gaming performance is 3DMark06
    Guides Pretty up to date info and buying guide Another good guide What to do once all the stuff is in the door Many build logs on MANY cases, great learning tool.

    My latest rig:

    Forums Not a noob site, but great stickies My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site Decent site

    Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing More rad testing Host for Martins lab and some newer tests Test results, very technical

  2. Do a lot of that reading...its good stuff.

    Ditch the Koolance and forget the domino. You are going to need a lot more rad than what you have with that setup. Figure at least 2-3 times the surface area you currently have, but with better rads and fans. Most of us have never been fans of Koolance...they don't have the best reputation. Also avoid Thermaltake Bigwater kits. (in case any caught your eye). You are much better off building a loop with quality parts and DIY.

    You will be much happier with the results.
  3. so after looking at the setups from the other builders, i guess it is time to get rid of the Koolance system. so an inside cooling system would be better huh? can i upload pics here so you can see how i have it setup and size my case is? i have a micron millennia case. i also have a huge, gateway 2000 server case. even with an internal setup, should i still go two rads? i got a good idea of blocks for the cpu and pumps.
  4. I guess the concept of inside/outside doesn't really apply. Most people have their rads outside their case in some form or fashion. That's about the only place they fit now-adays since a good loop requires a significant amount of rad surface area.
  5. ^Right. Take a look at a "rad box" that will allow you to put (most) of the rads out there on the back of your case. For example :

    Also read what Conumdrum posted. Spend a few hours/days reading then you should understand better.
  6. i pretty much have a little more than average knowledge of water cooling. i just wanted peoples input on the setup i wanted to do. so i have my extreme processor already. i bought 4 gigs 2x2gigs dominators. i bought a danger den rad dual fan setup. all barbs are 1/2". bought an apogee gtz block for processor. keeping the dual 8800 gtx's with koolance blocks. artic 5 for paste. want to know if the koolance exos 2 pump can handle the flow for the chip, two gpu's, and two rads. exos already has a rad with 2 huge fans or course. ambient temp is around 70 F. fans on exos pulled air off of rad but i flipped them to push air on, got 5 to 7 F drop. sits close to ceiling ac and ceiling fan so more cool air is pulled in the fans on the rad. all this without overclocking, but may be an option. case has two fans sucking air out through back, one fan sucking air in to HD's out to the back fans, two fans on side of case blowing air on gpus and Nbridge Sbridge chips. 780i mobo
  7. :lol: That pump can only deliver 2L/min

    So yeah, probably not going to be able to use it.
  8. so should i just get rid of the koolance system and get a new pump or add another pump? many recommend the swiftech MCP655. if i keep the koolance i wont need a pump as powerful as the swiftech. getting rid of the koolance system will leave me the just the danger den rad. plus, for my specs, would having two rads even do much good?
  9. ^Get new pump. And yes, the D5 (aka MCP655) is a very good pump. You might want to just scrap the entire Koolance and just start from scratch. However, you could probably use the rad (but you still have to get another rad).
  10. i want to get that pump but money is starting to get low. would a second not so powerful pump do it? i was looking at this one

    will that be too much force from the two pumps?
  11. Yeah, that should be OK, but you will not be getting the best performance. Also I'm not sure if that pump has enough flow rate to use in a GPU + CPU loop.
  12. well i meant keeping the koolance system and adding another pump. so the rig will have two rads and two pumps running it all. koolance pump on top of pc sends flow to the gpus, from there to the other rad, then to the other pump, then sending flow to the cpu, then back up to the koolance. understandable?
  13. ^Actually, your Koolance pump may limit the flow. Imo, cool CPU first, then save up some $ to cool GPU later.
  14. i guess ill just ditch the koolance. so the d5 will be enough to flow liquid through two rad, the cpu and 2 gpus correct? just want to be sure. all 1/2" of course.
  15. I run a Liang/D5/MCP655 (all the same) on my loop:

    D-tek v2 CPU
    2x Swiftech MCW60's
    2x Swiftech MCR320's
    2x Custom-made reserviors

    That thing is a pushes really well in my system.
  16. cool rubix thanks. i guess i will just do that then. im modding and custom painting a case to send to cpu magazine. stupid koolance system left lines on the top part so i got to repaint some of it. how can i add images to my post? links from a image saving site?
  17. I use Photobucket, and under each image, they have different copy/paste versions for the image, depending on what you intend to use it for, such as embedding in HTML, email, forums, etc...

    I am not sure about other sites, though.

    If you know HTML, its fairly simple; usually you would use to just have it display as a pic in the forum.
  18. Fastest way to link any image:

    In FireFox:
    1.Right click on image
    2. Click on "Copy Image Location"
    3. Then past it in to the

    Also if OP has a Yahoo email, OP can get a Flicker account.
  19. thanks guys. another question. the MCP655 comes with a controller and the B version without. does the B version pump as fast as the one with the controller.switching speeds is something i might not want to do so im thinking the B version is for me. just want to make sure.
  20. ^Right, the B version DO NOT have a controller.
  21. cool so it does pump as fast as the one with the controller correct?
  22. ^Right. There may be a .2GPM difference, I can't be 100% on this.
  23. I have the variable speed control on mine, but I am certain it has never been set below 5 (1-5 setting). :)
  24. cool guys thanks. yous have really been some great help. will post before and after pics.
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