So I'm bored at work, and I've decided what better thing to do than find other bored people to answer my questions.
I have an AMD 955 BE.
My temps idle are around 44 C
Gaming up to 54 C
I have a decent case, lian li, and good airflow.
cooler is stock.
I really want the new Corsair H50 went it drops towards the end of June, but until then, how are the other 955 BE owners temps? Stock heatsink or not, idle/gaming/full load etc
I'll just snip the whole thing, I just redid parts of it.
Us guys have done the WC thing, there are basics you gotta know. Take a look, don't take it as a diss on you or a rebuttal, look at as a friend saying "Dude, you gotta know what to say and how to communicate".
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CPU HS $65
GPU HS and air HS for vram and mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
Radiator $60 min, up to $130
Pump $50 +
Resiviour $25
Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
Fans $15-30
I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU.
First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
Spend a while (weeks is best for your sanity) at these links.
Look at the hundreds of loops close to your case and components in the stickies, read a couple 50 or so threads over the next week or so, you'll be on the ball to make the right choices and by then know how to put it together.
Not 'Roket Sience', but basic knowledge is required.
And you should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads. It's how we learn. Once the goodies show up on your doorstep your on your own.
For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. At the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC Forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.
Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.
Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky.
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Edit: The next paragraph was from 2008. With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big overclocks, better go 320 sized rad.
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IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.
Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.
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Here is the poop on solid info on air/water temps. The link is to an MCR320.
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Swifte...20-Review.html Scroll half way down and you can see the in/out air diff on the chart. It depends, like I said on fannage what the out air temp vs. the in temp is.
You can also see the water in/out is very close in temps. No more than 1.5 C. Amazing eh? I thought so too once I deciphered the charts.
So if you put a second rad with good airflow, you still get good results. Fannage needs to be higher to compensate for the increased air restriction. Meaning double fans on the rad setup, but it's a viable solution.
Equilibrium (tough word) means with a set heat load (idle/load) after an amount of time temps in a WC loop will stabilize. The heat load is the same, ambient air is the same, fannage is the same, pumps are the same, size of rads are the same, temps will stabilize for those conditions. Any of these parameters change, it has to stabilize. …………………………………………………………
Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……..
Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Rinse in 10 min or so. Put aside.
The bocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean.
All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. Run a rag using a caat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well.
Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
That’s it.
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Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
These are pretty standard and used by many.
Monitoring the PC temps overall: HWmonitor aka hardware monitor
CPUZ for CPU info
GPUZ for GPU info
CPU only: RealTemp
GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia
Maybe my question got misconstrued, because the responses I got had absolutely nothing to do with my question, so allow me to reiterate: What are other 955BE users temps?
Im not going to do water cooling for a multitude of reasons, primarily because it's not necessary for my needs, and secondly because my ps case isnt large enough to handle the type of system I would want.
I don't know how your hating on the H50 when it hasn't been released yet.
I thank you for the responses, they just aren't in the realm of answers I expected for a temps question
Are you overclocking? I'm running pretty hot, most of the time.
38-40C with Gelid Silent Spirit, at stock speed/voltage, idle load.
at 3.7GHz (multiplier change only) and 1.425 volts, it sits up at 60-61.
at 3.8GHz (multiplier change only) and 1.525 volts, it seems stable, but can't stay cool - hits 63 in about 5 mins, at which point I stop the tests running.
I grabbed a Noctua U12P cooler and installed it a couple of days ago. Giving it a couple more days for the thermal paste to dry/set/whatever it does. I'm told the metal compounds can take up to 3 days to properly set.
Initial tests, though, show about the same - I can't get the thing cool enough to run at x19, 1.525 volts. Any lower voltage and it's terribly unstable (crashes after a few seconds of usage).
I still don't really understand the overclocking thing, though, so I may perhaps need to change other voltages, or something.
IT's a similar deal if I try to overclock by bumping the clock speed.
I get to 230 stable at 1.425V, runs at 59-60V
235 or higher require similar voltage, which can't be cooled enough.
Currently looking into different fans, to see if I more air over the radiator will cool faster.
It may just be my chip, but it does seem to run really really hot.
That's the thing, I'm not overclocking and yet my temps are pretty high. I didn't know if I didn't seat the heatsink correctly or if it was a problem everyone was having, that was why I asked.
Where have you been purchasing your coolers from? Im interested to know if the new Noctua cooler you purchased showed any promising signs (for lowering temps).
don't know if this helps I have a 9950be that runs 31-32 on stock cooler and from what i understand i thought that the newer chips were supposed to be cooler. That seems a little high for a none overclock but nothing to be worried about. If you do decide to overclock don't bother with the stock cooler I tried and its pointless unless you just want .2 to .3 Ghz out of it.
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3870x2, p5k/epu
750watts psu, antec 900
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