Tom's Hardware > Forum > Overclocking > Cooler and Heatsinks > New to watercooling. Looking for some advice.

New to watercooling. Looking for some advice.

Forum Overclocking : Cooler and Heatsinks - New to watercooling. Looking for some advice.

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So at my house there is a huge noise problem with my PC. My parents get mad when they hear it running. They are threatening to get rid of it because it is so noisy.

I currently have:

q6600 @ 3.6
Diamond 4870x2 - My main sound problem..
Tuniq Tower - Other sound problem..
4GB DDR2 RAM
860W PC Power and Cooling PSU
Antec Twelve Hundred - Lots of space! Woo!

So i have been looking at different watercooling options, and i am unsure of what i will need. What i want to do is cool my CPU and video card with the same pump. I have heard people talking about multiple loops in their system, ect.

I know i need a radiator, pump, reservoir, tubing (not sure about thickness), CPU water block, and Video card water block.

This is what i have picked out so far.

Im trying to keep this under $400. So if you could help, that would be awesome.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] g30c95s160 50.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 30c107s155 90.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] g30c99s172 25.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 85s141b133 65.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 30c309s787 140.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 30c103s702 20.00

I am a little skeptical as to the reservoir/pump combo. Would it be enough to cool both my CPU and video card? I am looking to not only have a quiet machine, but have a highly overclockable machine.

How would i mount the radiator to my pc? Do i need a resevoir? Help!

If you could help me with that setup, that would be great.

Also, what is a good tube thickness? I was thinking 1/2"..


Message edited by cmzwirner on 06-19-2009 at 04:49:24 AM
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Not too shabby, you'll need a bigger rad for sure. A 120x3 and a better cpable one than the one you chose. Look at the Swiftech MCR320, best bang for the $, there are better ones if you must. You might even consider two 120x2 rads, but the 120x3 is okay. The pump is....okay. Please look at the ones we all use, the MCP 655 (D5) and MCP355 (DDC3.2). Both are made by Laing and rebadged by many companies. The 355 with the XSPC restop on top of the pump is proven to be awesome in tests. There are better CPU blocks, the GPU block is just fine.

Here is a quick link of guides, forums, and store links.

Guides
http://forums.extremeoverclocking. [...] p?t=282232 Pretty up to date info and buying guide
http://gilgameshreviews.com/index. [...] s&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=86 Another good guide
http://forums.extremeoverclocking. [...] p?t=312743 What to do once all the stuff is in the door
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forum [...] p?t=223835 Many build logs on MANY cases, great learning tool.

My latest rig:
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=604016

Forums
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/inde [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/ Decent site

Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests
http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forum [...] p?t=220593 More rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/ Host for Martins lab and some newer tests
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/ Test results, very technical


Stores
http://www.dangerden.com
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com

------------------------------

 

Reply to Conumdrum

#1- Negative on the x-flow radiator. You always want dual-pass (inlet/outlet on the same end) Besides, for what you want to cool, you are going to need more rad area than that...with better rads. For low priced, decent rads, check out Swiftech's MCR220 and MCR320's. $40-$50 each or so.

#2- NOOOOO to the feser coolant/additive. You don't need it and Conumdrum posted something earlier this week/last week about feser fluid gunking up someone's loop...major. Go look it up, should be close by.

#3- Pump is probably OK, seems like it would be alright. I am not a fan of the bay res's, but if you to keep your pump and res hidden, its a good choice.

#4- Not a fan of Koolance...anything. That block might be alright, but damn...little pricey? See what you can find from EK and DangerDen for video card blocks. Koolance has been notorious for issues with mixed metals and poor fittings/corrosion.

Tubing, probably 1/2, but at least 3/8. I'm too lazy to repost Conumdrum's link list...usually he or Shadow will do that. (Edit: looks like he already struck). :)

I have that same chip, and it all depends. 3.6 is pretty good for it, you might get a little more, but it's not definite. Silence isn't always an end result...it is dependent upon which fans you choose and for what purpose, rad size/amounts, etc. You dont NEED a reservior, but for beginners, its a nice thing to have to help fill/purge. You can also use a T-line for filling and purging, which is what most of us use one way or another.


Message edited by rubix_1011 on 06-19-2009 at 05:16:36 AM
Reply to rubix_1011

Do i need 3 fans for a 3x120mm radiator?

I currently only have 2 rear exhaust fans, and one giant exhaust fan on the top.

And the waterblock for the GPU is the cheapest they get. :/

heres my updated list.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6835108086 40.00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6835108082 75.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 38_ID.html 25.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 30c107s155 90.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] g30c99s172 25.00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] _-35108110 60.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 30c309s787 140.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/cab-21.html#blank 5.00

I prefer to order off of newegg and frozenpc just because i dont want to make an account anywhere else. :P

Reply to cmzwirner

http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenddfucow1.html

Petra's has a DD out of stock, but they are lower in price. I would be willing to bet the DD performs better than the Koolance one you have picked out. FrozenCPU is nice sometimes, but they are also a little more pricey than other places. They usually have great selection, though.

Good fans:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12x38scdfuka1.html

These things are pretty strong and push a good amount of air for ~$11

44CFM (TT ones mentioned above) vs 87CFM on the Scythe. Just depends on the level of performance needed and the rad you intend to use them on. I have 3 of these for intake/exhaust on my case...I use the lower speed ones on my rads (which I should probably upgrade to the bigger ones since I use the MCR320's, but I don't want a tornado in my office :) )

Reply to rubix_1011

So i can basically go with a 120.3 rad, and mount it externally on the outide of my case. OR, i was thinking. Can you sandwich 2 rads on top of eachother? They will, of course, be separated by a fan, but still. I only have exhaust fan slots that i could mount a rad to on the back on my case. So it would either be a sandwich or external.

And i have finally got this below 350 with the help of you guys. Is there anything else i can do to get it even cheaper? I am looking to get it under $300, not including shipping.

http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcqposerab1.html 54.00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6835108082 75.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 38_ID.html 25.00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] _-35108110 60.00

http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenddfucow1.html 130.00

http://www.frozencpu.com/cab-21.html#blank 5.00

http://www.petrastechshop.com/12x38scdfuka1.html 11.00

Reply to cmzwirner

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] g30c95s161

Sandwiched rads...there ya go. (Doesn't include the fans or second rad...)

Just strip a piece of wire about 1" long and use to jumper your PSU...don't spend $5 on that piece of wire.


Message edited by rubix_1011 on 06-19-2009 at 07:47:28 PM
Reply to rubix_1011

Antec sells a radiator that can mount to the top of antec 1200... Heard it has aluminum in it though and can corrode without an additive

http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=ODM3

Reply to SweetBlasphemy

You can sandwich rads. The first rad will warm the air so your second rad will not be as efficient. Maning the second rad can lose as much as 1/2 of it's cooling ability. Also take into account rads block airflow. The tests done on the new MCR stackable rads need some high (really high) speed fans or more than one layer of fans. Meaning more noise.

It's a long long read but I'd read the full 12 page thread.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forum [...] p?t=218599

And yea that Alum rad by Antec is pretty much panned as junk by all the experianced watercoolers.


Message edited by Conumdrum on 06-20-2009 at 04:40:52 AM
------------------------------

 

Reply to Conumdrum

So I have just decided what I will do. I just made around 18 inches of clearance in the front of my case for the MCR320, which is 16 inches long. It seems like it will work perfectly, and I won't have a monstrosity of a rad sticking off of the back of my system.

I basically have this all finalized, and I will be purchasing my setup in a few days. You guys were a huge help. Thanks. :)

Reply to cmzwirner

Hey, post over at OC Forums, my home forum and keep us updated?
http://www.ocforums.com

Also, need internal rad case build logs to learn? Here ya go, great cudos who organized this post.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forum [...] p?t=223835


Message edited by Conumdrum on 06-20-2009 at 07:14:28 AM
Reply to Conumdrum

Ok. So i have decided to go with a t-line instead of a reservoir. This is the setup that i have so far. Pretty much my build plan.

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv91/cmzwirner/watercooling1.jpg?t=1245609269

Im still unsure which way the pump goes though. Does it go through the top opening, or the side opening.

And im not sure if i have the t-line in the right place. Please give any tips.

Thanks!

The extra ports on the radiator show that i can either flip it so that the ports are at the top or bottom. They arent extras.

Reply to cmzwirner

Tline or res MUST be before the inlet of the pump. Make sure you seal the front of the rad to pull cooler outside air, not air thats mixing up in the case.

Reply to Conumdrum

^ This is a big deal since it makes it the best way to fill your system. If you have the T-line right before the inlet of your pump, you can prime the system with some water, and add the funnel and pour in your water as your pump starts up. There is a good chance that your pump will out-pace your ability to pour, so don't let it go dry and suck air, flip off the power and repeat the above steps.

(Just wanted to clarify why it was a MUST for the T-line placement) :)

Reply to rubix_1011

Ohh the outlet is the outside of the impeller, not the middle.

Reply to Conumdrum

Right, middle intake, top, out.

Reply to rubix_1011

EK Supreme is too resistant block my advice is using Swiftech apogee gtz. I use too it is the best in the world. also you have chosen noisy fans almost 33db!
warning: T fittings reduce flow. Arranging should be pump--240mmradiator--cpu block--120mm radiator(if you want)--gpu block

Reply to PeGaSuS@01

I doubt T-lines reduce flow any more than a bay reservoir with a baffle. The concept of watercooling is often mistaken that it is silent, which isn't always the case...much of it depends on the user's needs/wants and the setup desired.

Reply to rubix_1011

I got it all set up. Im still getting the air bubbles out, but so far so good. No leaks, but i did spill the coolant a few times.

But.. Im going Pump>GPU>CPU>Res>T-line>Pump.

Temps:

GPU: 29C

CPU: q6600 @ 3.3 GHZ @ 1.5V.. Core 1: 32C Core 2: 33C Core 3: 26C Core 4: 27C

As you can see, the temps differ greatly from core to core. I think that i have a crappy chip. Ill wait for a price drop on a q9550, and get it. The q6600 just runs too hot.

Pics later.

Reply to cmzwirner

Question!

Right now im going Pump>GPU>CPU>Rad>t-line>Pump

Would it be smart to add a 120mm rad, or even a 240mm Rad like the MCR220 after the GPU block to cool down the liquid for the CPU? I would think that the water after the 4870x2(Runs HOTTT) is much warmer than it was before, so adding a 120 or 240 mm rad Between the GPU and CPU block would cool it down to drop CPU temps.

Opinions?

Reply to cmzwirner

Yes, you would benefit from that extra rad in that setup.

Reply to rubix_1011

You would do better with another rad. But hold off till you load the processor on the hottest part of the day. Then your temps will tell. Maybe once you begin to OC you will see you need another rad. Idle temps tell us very little, your not pushing the CPU/GPU at all in idle.

And where the second rad is in the loop doesn't matter at all. Nice if you can put it right before the CPU, but if you have to at the expense of ugly massive tubing runs, or will be using warm case air to cool the rad you'll see little benefit for just the CPU.

Learn, play before you start adding raddage etc.

Reply to Conumdrum
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