New to watercooling. Looking for some advice.

So at my house there is a huge noise problem with my PC. My parents get mad when they hear it running. They are threatening to get rid of it because it is so noisy.

I currently have:

q6600 @ 3.6
Diamond 4870x2 - My main sound problem..
Tuniq Tower - Other sound problem..
860W PC Power and Cooling PSU
Antec Twelve Hundred - Lots of space! Woo!

So i have been looking at different watercooling options, and i am unsure of what i will need. What i want to do is cool my CPU and video card with the same pump. I have heard people talking about multiple loops in their system, ect.

I know i need a radiator, pump, reservoir, tubing (not sure about thickness), CPU water block, and Video card water block.

This is what i have picked out so far.

Im trying to keep this under $400. So if you could help, that would be awesome. 50.00 90.00 25.00 65.00 140.00 20.00

I am a little skeptical as to the reservoir/pump combo. Would it be enough to cool both my CPU and video card? I am looking to not only have a quiet machine, but have a highly overclockable machine.

How would i mount the radiator to my pc? Do i need a resevoir? Help!

If you could help me with that setup, that would be great.

Also, what is a good tube thickness? I was thinking 1/2"..
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  1. Not too shabby, you'll need a bigger rad for sure. A 120x3 and a better cpable one than the one you chose. Look at the Swiftech MCR320, best bang for the $, there are better ones if you must. You might even consider two 120x2 rads, but the 120x3 is okay. The pump is....okay. Please look at the ones we all use, the MCP 655 (D5) and MCP355 (DDC3.2). Both are made by Laing and rebadged by many companies. The 355 with the XSPC restop on top of the pump is proven to be awesome in tests. There are better CPU blocks, the GPU block is just fine.

    Here is a quick link of guides, forums, and store links.

    Guides Pretty up to date info and buying guide Another good guide What to do once all the stuff is in the door Many build logs on MANY cases, great learning tool.

    My latest rig:

    Forums Not a noob site, but great stickies My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site Decent site

    Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing More rad testing Host for Martins lab and some newer tests Test results, very technical

  2. #1- Negative on the x-flow radiator. You always want dual-pass (inlet/outlet on the same end) Besides, for what you want to cool, you are going to need more rad area than that...with better rads. For low priced, decent rads, check out Swiftech's MCR220 and MCR320's. $40-$50 each or so.

    #2- NOOOOO to the feser coolant/additive. You don't need it and Conumdrum posted something earlier this week/last week about feser fluid gunking up someone's loop...major. Go look it up, should be close by.

    #3- Pump is probably OK, seems like it would be alright. I am not a fan of the bay res's, but if you to keep your pump and res hidden, its a good choice.

    #4- Not a fan of Koolance...anything. That block might be alright, but damn...little pricey? See what you can find from EK and DangerDen for video card blocks. Koolance has been notorious for issues with mixed metals and poor fittings/corrosion.

    Tubing, probably 1/2, but at least 3/8. I'm too lazy to repost Conumdrum's link list...usually he or Shadow will do that. (Edit: looks like he already struck). :)

    I have that same chip, and it all depends. 3.6 is pretty good for it, you might get a little more, but it's not definite. Silence isn't always an end is dependent upon which fans you choose and for what purpose, rad size/amounts, etc. You dont NEED a reservior, but for beginners, its a nice thing to have to help fill/purge. You can also use a T-line for filling and purging, which is what most of us use one way or another.

    Petra's has a DD out of stock, but they are lower in price. I would be willing to bet the DD performs better than the Koolance one you have picked out. FrozenCPU is nice sometimes, but they are also a little more pricey than other places. They usually have great selection, though.

    Good fans:

    These things are pretty strong and push a good amount of air for ~$11

    44CFM (TT ones mentioned above) vs 87CFM on the Scythe. Just depends on the level of performance needed and the rad you intend to use them on. I have 3 of these for intake/exhaust on my case...I use the lower speed ones on my rads (which I should probably upgrade to the bigger ones since I use the MCR320's, but I don't want a tornado in my office :) )
  4. So i can basically go with a 120.3 rad, and mount it externally on the outide of my case. OR, i was thinking. Can you sandwich 2 rads on top of eachother? They will, of course, be separated by a fan, but still. I only have exhaust fan slots that i could mount a rad to on the back on my case. So it would either be a sandwich or external.

    And i have finally got this below 350 with the help of you guys. Is there anything else i can do to get it even cheaper? I am looking to get it under $300, not including shipping. 54.00 75.00 25.00 60.00 130.00 5.00 11.00

    Sandwiched rads...there ya go. (Doesn't include the fans or second rad...)

    Just strip a piece of wire about 1" long and use to jumper your PSU...don't spend $5 on that piece of wire.
  6. Antec sells a radiator that can mount to the top of antec 1200... Heard it has aluminum in it though and can corrode without an additive
  7. You can sandwich rads. The first rad will warm the air so your second rad will not be as efficient. Maning the second rad can lose as much as 1/2 of it's cooling ability. Also take into account rads block airflow. The tests done on the new MCR stackable rads need some high (really high) speed fans or more than one layer of fans. Meaning more noise.

    It's a long long read but I'd read the full 12 page thread.

    And yea that Alum rad by Antec is pretty much panned as junk by all the experianced watercoolers.
  8. So I have just decided what I will do. I just made around 18 inches of clearance in the front of my case for the MCR320, which is 16 inches long. It seems like it will work perfectly, and I won't have a monstrosity of a rad sticking off of the back of my system.

    I basically have this all finalized, and I will be purchasing my setup in a few days. You guys were a huge help. Thanks. :)
  9. Hey, post over at OC Forums, my home forum and keep us updated?

    Also, need internal rad case build logs to learn? Here ya go, great cudos who organized this post.
  10. Ok. So i have decided to go with a t-line instead of a reservoir. This is the setup that i have so far. Pretty much my build plan.

    Im still unsure which way the pump goes though. Does it go through the top opening, or the side opening.

    And im not sure if i have the t-line in the right place. Please give any tips.


    The extra ports on the radiator show that i can either flip it so that the ports are at the top or bottom. They arent extras.
  11. Tline or res MUST be before the inlet of the pump. Make sure you seal the front of the rad to pull cooler outside air, not air thats mixing up in the case.
  12. ^ This is a big deal since it makes it the best way to fill your system. If you have the T-line right before the inlet of your pump, you can prime the system with some water, and add the funnel and pour in your water as your pump starts up. There is a good chance that your pump will out-pace your ability to pour, so don't let it go dry and suck air, flip off the power and repeat the above steps.

    (Just wanted to clarify why it was a MUST for the T-line placement) :)
  13. Ohh the outlet is the outside of the impeller, not the middle.
  14. Right, middle intake, top, out.
  15. EK Supreme is too resistant block my advice is using Swiftech apogee gtz. I use too it is the best in the world. also you have chosen noisy fans almost 33db!
    warning: T fittings reduce flow. Arranging should be pump--240mmradiator--cpu block--120mm radiator(if you want)--gpu block
  16. I doubt T-lines reduce flow any more than a bay reservoir with a baffle. The concept of watercooling is often mistaken that it is silent, which isn't always the case...much of it depends on the user's needs/wants and the setup desired.
  17. I got it all set up. Im still getting the air bubbles out, but so far so good. No leaks, but i did spill the coolant a few times.

    But.. Im going Pump>GPU>CPU>Res>T-line>Pump.


    GPU: 29C

    CPU: q6600 @ 3.3 GHZ @ 1.5V.. Core 1: 32C Core 2: 33C Core 3: 26C Core 4: 27C

    As you can see, the temps differ greatly from core to core. I think that i have a crappy chip. Ill wait for a price drop on a q9550, and get it. The q6600 just runs too hot.

    Pics later.
  18. Question!

    Right now im going Pump>GPU>CPU>Rad>t-line>Pump

    Would it be smart to add a 120mm rad, or even a 240mm Rad like the MCR220 after the GPU block to cool down the liquid for the CPU? I would think that the water after the 4870x2(Runs HOTTT) is much warmer than it was before, so adding a 120 or 240 mm rad Between the GPU and CPU block would cool it down to drop CPU temps.

  19. Yes, you would benefit from that extra rad in that setup.
  20. You would do better with another rad. But hold off till you load the processor on the hottest part of the day. Then your temps will tell. Maybe once you begin to OC you will see you need another rad. Idle temps tell us very little, your not pushing the CPU/GPU at all in idle.

    And where the second rad is in the loop doesn't matter at all. Nice if you can put it right before the CPU, but if you have to at the expense of ugly massive tubing runs, or will be using warm case air to cool the rad you'll see little benefit for just the CPU.

    Learn, play before you start adding raddage etc.
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