hyperjoe,
The power and reset switches are not polarized. Either way is OK. The connectors for the power and HD LED's are polarized. If they do not come on, reverse the connectors.
warezme wrote:
"Sounds like you know everything and don't need anyone's help."
By no means. Weak on AMD systems (the IMC) which means when Nehalem comes, I start over again. Networking - if I cannot fix it with wizards, help files, and books, I ask for help. Weak on graphics cards. No experience with SLI or Crossfire. I pretty much follow recommendations from places and people I've learned to trust. Never built a RAID array. No experience with Vista. Multimedia - I can rip DVD's and make mp3's. Finally bought a digital camera two months ago. Programming - OOP is ... puzzling.
On the other hand, I built - from scratch - my first computer back in the late '70's. (Actually, if you wanted your own computer in the mid '70's, that's what you had to do.) Wirewrapped an RCA 1802 based micro for a friend who wanted to run Forth.
Oh, and more than 45 years as an electronics hobbyist and more than 30 years experience with military computer and radar systems. That's what I am doing in Saudi Arabia now.
Here is a what POST does, essentially it tests the components of your system are valid. If one is missing or defective you will get a beep error. This is what I was trying to help you figure out to rule out a component fault.
Yes, indeed. That's what the POST does. And if you have a dead computer, you can remove components until, at some point, hopefully, it starts to sort of work again. A friend of mine describes it as pulling the legs off a spider. But sooner or later, you are left with the body of the spider, in this case, the motherboard, CPU and HSF, and PSU. At this point, the only sure thing is to test by substitution. You need the CPU to run the POST.
I just happen to have an eVGA 680i motherboard presently unused. (Had strange stability problems with a highly OC'd Q6600.) One reason I like this board is because it has a builtin beeper, power and reset switches, and a really nice 2 digit hex display to help troubleshoot POST problems.
With known good PSU plugged into main power and EPS connectors, I turn on the PSU switch on the back, and the little blue LED illuminates, indicating 5 volt standby power. Press the power switch and the PSU fan spins up, MCP fan spins, and I get the yellow and green LED's indicating main 5v and 12v power to the motherboard. No beeps and the hex display is blank no CPU.
OlympusHAXXX and quaduser: Apologies here. I was not clear enough. Yes, plug in a bare PSU into the wall, turn on the switch in back if it has one, and the PSU fan should not spin up. You can use a bare (not painted) paperclip to turn on a PSU by shorting the green wire on the main PSU connector to either of the neighboring black wires. That's what the front case power does. It applies a ground to the green wire through the motherboard when the switch is pressed.
OlympusHAXXX: Any progress on your problem?