Watercooling parts


Wanted to know your opinion about these watercooling components:


i want to build watercooling system to fit in midi tower case cm 690, and to cool overclocked Q9550.
will the parts menioned above be a good solution for what i want to do?

thank you
13 answers Last reply
More about watercooling parts
  1. Thermaltake watercooling is junk, no offense, trust me on this. So is Zalman and most Koolance.

    A single 120mm radiator isn't going to cool that chip...you will need at least 2x the surface area. If you want to cool your GPU (single), double that.

    There are a lot of threads in here that are for new watercooling users that don't know where to start...please read through them for some advice. There is a decent sticky for watercooling as well...at least get some generalized information so you know what you are doing. Sorry, not trying to be a pain, but we get a good handful of these exact questions a week...and they all start the same. Good luck...I'm sure Shadow or Conumdrum will swing by with some links to post in...
  2. If you're looking for a packaged solution I would suggest this

    If your looking to piece a system out I would look at both Danger Den's site and Swiftech's site.
  3. Both of the prev resonders are 110% correct. Stay away from TT. Buy quality.
    Here is my much much repeated post on a few basics. If you would just take the time to read for 30 minutes before posting, wondering about a whole new way of cooling.

    SLOW down, learn. Read, take notes, compare prices. CYA in a week, any less and your rushing it.

    lUs guys have done the WC thing, there are basics you gotta know. Take a look, don't take it as a diss on you or a rebuttal, look at as a friend saying "Dude, you gotta know what to say and how to communicate".
    CPU HS $65
    GPU HS and air HS for vram and mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
    Radiator $60 min, up to $130
    Pump $50 +
    Resiviour $25
    Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
    Fans $15-30

    I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU.
    First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
    Spend a while (weeks is best for your sanity) at these links.
    Look at the hundreds of loops close to your case and components in the stickies, read a couple 50 or so threads over the next week or so, you'll be on the ball to make the right choices and by then know how to put it together.
    Not 'Roket Sience', but basic knowledge is required.
    And you should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads. It's how we learn. Once the goodies show up on your doorstep your on your own.
    For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. At the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC Forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.

    Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.

    Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky. Look here too…. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223835
    Edit: The next paragraph was from 2008. With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big overclocks, better go 320 sized rad.

    IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.

    Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.
    Here is the poop on solid info on air/water temps. The link is to an MCR320.
    Scroll half way down and you can see the in/out air diff on the chart. It depends, like I said on fannage what the out air temp vs. the in temp is.

    You can also see the water in/out is very close in temps. No more than 1.5 C. Amazing eh? I thought so too once I deciphered the charts.

    So if you put a second rad with good airflow, you still get good results. Fannage needs to be higher to compensate for the increased air restriction. Meaning double fans on the rad setup, but it's a viable solution.

    Equilibrium (tough word) means with a set heat load (idle/load) after an amount of time temps in a WC loop will stabilize. The heat load is the same, ambient air is the same, fannage is the same, pumps are the same, size of rads are the same, temps will stabilize for those conditions. Any of these parameters change, it has to stabilize.
    Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……
    Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
    For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Rinse in 10 min or so. Put aside.
    The bocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
    Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean.
    All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. Run a rag using a coat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well.
    Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
    Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
    That’s it.
    Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
    These are pretty standard and used by many.
    Monitoring the PC temps overall: HWmonitor aka hardware monitor
    CPUZ for CPU info
    GPUZ for GPU info
    CPU only: RealTemp
    GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia

    Loading/benching tools:
    CPU loaders: Prime95 and OCCT
    GPU Loaders: ATI Tool and the best one is Furmark, nothing pushes the GPU harder right now.
    Benching for overall graphics/gaming performance is 3DMark06
    http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=282232 Pretty up to date info and buying guide
    http://gilgameshreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75:hokiealumnus&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=86 Another good guide
    http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=312743 What to do once all the stuff is in the door
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223835 Many build logs on MANY cases, great learning tool.

    My latest rig:

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
    http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
    http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/inde [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
    http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/ Decent site

    Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests
    http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=220593 More rad testing
    http://skinneelabs.com/ Host for Martins lab and some newer tests
    http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/ Test results, very technical

  4. OMG thats as bad as TT. Fail. Fail. Guess you don't frequent a lot of other forums.

    And I have an older hand LOL!!!!!
  5. HAHHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAA N000B FAIL! never EVER get a T.T. WC system, LOL
  6. Domino is just about as worthless... Poor performance, even though a few review sites have given it moderate positive reviews. However, these are typically the same review sites that know little about liquid cooling and focus more on other hardware reviews. Just because it doesn't let your rig catch on fire, doesn't mean it deserves a thumbs up.
  7. OK, the folks here are telling you to stay away from TT...that's good advice, but they fail to tell you why. Don't get me wrong, TT makes some great products, but when it come to their watercooling components, they tend to fail on several points.

    1) Their pumps tend to be underpowered
    2) The radiators and cooling blocks introduce impingement into your loop by reducing the loop down to as small as 1/4" inner diameter, reducing your flow rate considerably
    3) Thermaltake water cooling products are well known to include both aluminium and copper parts in the same loop, introducing the opportunity for galvanic corrosion even if you use fluid products that are designed to reduce it

    For these reasons, TT watercooing products barely do better than high-end air cooling, while costing 3-4 times as much. You are much better off spending slightly more money and getting Danger Den, Swiftech, etc. (actual water cooling products from companies that concentrate on water cooling) and getting a cooling loop that puts any air cooling to shame, and much quieter to boot.
  8. ^Correct; I think I posted this in another thread...I just don't post the same info each time for every TT kit. Comparison:

    TT Bigwater 760i pump: Maximum Capacity 500 L/ hr

    Swiftech MCP655: Maximum discharge: ~ 317 GPH (1200 LPH)
  9. Thank you very much for replies. Really didn't know that TT WC is so bad.
    No way to get Danger Den in my country and don't have international credit card to buy online.So the only solution I see is Swiftech h2o 220 and aquagate max. But coolermaster says that i need some ESA case for it. will i be able to mount radiator of aquagate inside the CM 690. What do you think about it?
  10. Aquagate...same story as TT. The Swiftech kits are good starter kits...they typically have some pretty decent components included with them. If I had to suggest something for someone as single solution, that would be the one. You might check into bigger rads...depending on your needs.
  11. Danger Den is JUSt a store. DD only makes blocks, all the other stuff is made by other companies. They are awesome people and if you email them you would be amazed what they can do to ship WW.
    There are MANY many stores worldwide. Look at the bottom of the link provided, many WC stores.

    And here is a link of MANY WWC case build logs. You can learn soo much from this with a few spare hours.
  12. Conumdrum said:
    Danger Den is JUSt a store. DD only makes blocks, all the other stuff is made by other companies. They are awesome people and if you email them you would be amazed what they can do to ship WW.


    Both Swiftech and Danger Den specialize in watercooling. They are enthusiasts catering to enthusiasts so if you email them with a concern or question they will do everything in their power to help you work it out.
  13. I have emailed both Swiftech and DD (Swiftech just the other day, as a matter of fact). They are always good at getting back to you and getting you the info you need.
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