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Liquid cooling kit water spills in PC.

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August 29, 2008 8:22:30 AM

These are my computer specs.

Case ( NZXT Trinity ATX Mid-Tower Case w/400W Power Supply Black )

Case Lighting ( Neon Light Blue )

Power Supply ( ** iBUYPOWER Recommended for SLI ** Thermaltake Purepower 680 Watt Power Supply [SLI Ready] )

Processor ( Intel Core 2 Duo Processor E6700 (2x 2.66GHz/4MB L2 Cache/1066FSB) )

Processor Cooling ( [New !!!] iBUYPOWER Liquid CPU Cooling Fan System Kit --- [for INTEL CPU] )

Motherboard ( Asus P5N-SLI nForce 570-SLI Chipset w/7.1 Sound, Gb LAN, S-ATA Raid, USB 2.0 Dual PCI-E MB)

Memory ( 2048MB [1024MB X2] DDR2-800 PC6400 Memory Module Corsair XMS2 Xtreme w/Heat Spreader )

Video Card ( Nvidia Geforce 7900GTX 512MB w/DVI + TV Out Video )

Hard Drive ( Gaming HARD DRIVES [Serial ATA-150, 10,000 RPM] WD Raptor WD1500ADFD 150GB 16M Cache Hard Drive )

CD-RW/DVD-RW Drive ( [** Special !!! ***] 16X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive Black)

Sound Card ( Creative Lab Sound Blaster X-Fi Platinum )

Network Card ( Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100) )

Floppy Drive ( Mitsumi 1.44 MB Internal Floppy Drive Black )

Monitor ( LCD Monitor ViewSonic 17" VP720B TFT LCD Monitor [Extreme Gaming; 4 ms; Color: Black] )

Keyboard ( [New !!!] Logitech G15 Gaming Keyboard )

Mouse ( [New !!!] Logitech G5 Gaming Laser Mouse )

Operation System ( MS Windows XP Home Edition w/Service Pack-2 )

Headset ( Plantronics DSP-500 USB Digital Audio Headset )

Power Protection ( ** iBUYPOWER Recommended ** Opti-UPS SS1200-AVR Mighty Voltage Regulator )

=============================================================================

I was cleaning out my fans today and I try very hard to becareful with my computer when cleaning it and dealing with the parts inside. I have never dealt with liquid cooling but I have it in my computer. As I was cleaning my fans I noticed that the rear exhaust liquid cooling heatsink was really dusty, where the rear exhaust fan rests on to blow the hot air out of the case. It was really filthy so I decided to unscrew the back and take it off but my problem was that it was connected to the cpu (the liquid tubes). I try to unscrew the block off the cpu chip and I did, but what I was afraid that would happen, happened. All of a sudden blue water starts pouring out all over my motherboard and pricey components, so I screw the block back on so not all of the water comes out (even though I think most of it went pouring out). I flipped my pc up and drained all the water out, as much as I can and is now sitting without the cover to let it dry. What can I do? I don't have any idea on how to put water back in and how I would make the liquid cooling system work properly without having heating problems. I don't even want to turn it back on after it drys... I'm clueless.... Any ideas? suggestions? Please help.

Heres a pic of my water cooling kit.

August 29, 2008 8:57:33 AM

Been there. Step 1. Don't panic. Disassemble.

Get some rubbing alcohol, lots and lots of paper towels. take the processor out especially and get that good and dry. if you had coolant (as in colored additives) it will be sticky and easy to notice and clean those specific areas with the rubbing alcohol. The alcohol will evaporate relatively quickly, just make sure everything is dry before reassembly.

if just purified water then all you have to do is allow the water to evaporate. put any components that are damp under a desk lamp with 60 watt or less bulb. don't get them hot, just get them dry.

Use q-tips, and corners of a paper towel to get into the card slots if necessary, I would turn the board on its face and let it sit for a while.

Step 2. Reassemble, and get it working again

take the whole system out and inspect it. learn how it works. There is a fill port somewhere, that will be the important part. purified water is all you need to really put in there, but non-conductive additives are available for just a few bucks. you will actually run the cooling system outside of the computer overnight before putting it in your computer. this will bleed off any air.

You will have more questions.
August 29, 2008 9:05:05 AM

I would get a decent Thermaright/ Scythe CPU aircooler this will easily beat a cheap sealed liquid cooling unit.


By your own admission (and rather excessively detailed parts list and frequent references to "ibuyer") you are a total noobie computer user. Hopefully you have learnt now that el cheapo sealed liquid cooling units are total crap. If you haven't figured it out already: you have taken apart a sealed "maintenance-free" unit... There is no going back!! :non:  :non:  :non: 

Is that an off-the-shelf system from a shop or built by a friend?? If so get some help to sit the new heatsink properly or you'll be starting a new thread "Help my CPU is running at 100C do I need to use thermal paste??" :sol: 

Bob

PS if this is a bait thread - you got me!! :lol: 
Related resources
August 29, 2008 9:14:09 AM

btw the E6700 can be contained quite easily with a low cost air cooler.
August 29, 2008 9:43:51 AM

Word of advice: Don't go water cooling if you're not familiar with it. Just like the previous two posters recommended, stick with air cooling might be better in the long run.
August 29, 2008 10:37:55 AM

If I had water cooling, the nightmare I'd have, would be actually having a leak while the system is on, OR the water pump fails. [:mousemonkey:4]. o O (gawd I'd hate to go through that)
August 29, 2008 11:36:43 AM

Grimmy said:
If I had water cooling, the nightmare I'd have, would be actually having a leak while the system is on, OR the water pump fails. [:mousemonkey:4]. o O (gawd I'd hate to go through that)


+1

That is the real reason for avoiding this cheapo crap!!

Watercooling is good (I use it myself) but you really want to buy decent (carefully selected) parts and do a lot of research first!!

Bob

August 29, 2008 12:47:32 PM

El cheapo strikes again!

Like the others have said, go with air cooling, and use thermal paste.

If you really must go with water cooling, look for something with an external resevoir, pump, and radiator. That way you'll minimise the chances for leakage inside the case, and the worst that'll happen is you'll have a puddle on the floor.
August 29, 2008 12:56:10 PM

bobwya said:
+1

That is the real reason for avoiding this cheapo crap!!

Watercooling is good (I use it myself) but you really want to buy decent (carefully selected) parts and do a lot of research first!!

Bob


Was thinking about using an old aluminum car radiator for a liquid cooled PC ;) 

heheheheh
August 29, 2008 1:20:50 PM

autozone has a transmission cooler that is roughly 120mm by 240mm with 3/8 inch barbs for 27 dollars.

back to the topic at hand, you shouldnt go with water until you know what you're doing, just like everyone said. the cooler master sealed all in one kit that uses the 120mm rad and fan is pretty good, but the 80mm version that you have sucks. see if you can return it and get a good air cooler like the xigmatec rifle
a b à CPUs
August 29, 2008 2:08:02 PM

Quote:
Was thinking about using an old aluminum car radiator for a liquid cooled PC

heheheheh


Bad idea. Copper water blocks and aluminum radiators will cause corrosion.

Cheapo watercooling should be avoided if all possible. Good watercooling is great, but its costly. If you want to go the cheap route, just go with an aftermarktet air cooler.

I've watercooled for 5+ years and never had the problems you encountered. Hopefully this educates you somewhat about the workings of PC building and how to improve for next time. Don't get me wrong, we were all noobs at one point or another, but trust me, good water components can get pricey, but you do learn a lot about what you want to accomplish.

Just make sure your gear is copper...
August 29, 2008 2:39:37 PM

I initially had a leak when I setup my first (and only) watercooled PC. My leak was traced back to a defective o-ring (I guess that's what you call it). Mercifully, the coolant dripped straight down into the base of my case. It was still a VERY bad sight to see a puddle of liquid at the bottom of the nicest computer you've ever owned. So it does happen. I did it mainly to say I'd done it... now that I've met that need, I'll stick to mid-range air cooling.
August 29, 2008 7:34:22 PM

I just called technical support from ibuypower and they don't want to pick up.... I am probably going to end up buying an air cooling system and dry out the parts for about a week before I turn it back on. I already knew they had put a cheap water cooling system in my pc but that doesn't matter, I learned my lesson to not opening the water block, I really wasn't expecting the water to just pour out like that and I also thought that the whole block was going to come off with the water inside but I guess I was wrong. How would I get it out though... The main screws at the bottom are being blocked by the nuts that hold down the block (where the water came puring out).
August 29, 2008 9:14:19 PM

virtual-slay3r said:
I just called technical support from ibuypower and they don't want to pick up.... I am probably going to end up buying an air cooling system and dry out the parts for about a week before I turn it back on. I already knew they had put a cheap water cooling system in my pc but that doesn't matter, I learned my lesson to not opening the water block, I really wasn't expecting the water to just pour out like that and I also thought that the whole block was going to come off with the water inside but I guess I was wrong. How would I get it out though... The main screws at the bottom are being blocked by the nuts that hold down the block (where the water came puring out).


Hi virtual-slay3r

If you want to swap out the cooler your best bet is to take the whole lot out and work from the back of the MB. I guess the cooler has a backing plate - right guys??

Remember the magic words: Anti-static wrist strap, good earthing, etc.!!

Can anyone give you a hand installer a new heatsink?? Lots of things to go wrong there though it looks easy!!

Bob
August 29, 2008 10:32:08 PM

look at the back of the motherboard. take pictures of it and post it if you are unsure.

http://www.hardcoreware.net/reviews/review-279-2.htm

look at the pictures here, and you will see where the 4 screws are that are safe to remove without unleashing the liquid that is left.
August 29, 2008 10:40:13 PM

thanks rockbyter, I just took out the water cooling system and I am now drying out the areas. It looks as if the cpu is wet from that blue water and I wanted to know how I would clean out the cpu and other parts completely because I can still see the blue water in certain areas around the cpu, memory, all the pci slots, and the back port connections. I bought a dust remover spray, q-tips, and alcohol. I wanted to know how I would clean out the cpu (already have thermal paste). Do I clean EVERYTHING with alcohol or is the cpu sensitive to alcohol?
August 29, 2008 11:02:03 PM

virtual-slay3r said:
thanks rockbyter, I just took out the water cooling system and I am now drying out the areas. It looks as if the cpu is wet from that blue water and I wanted to know how I would clean out the cpu and other parts completely because I can still see the blue water in certain areas around the cpu, memory, all the pci slots, and the back port connections. I bought a dust remover spray, q-tips, and alcohol. I wanted to know how I would clean out the cpu (already have thermal paste). Do I clean EVERYTHING with alcohol or is the cpu sensitive to alcohol?


Good stuff. It will be fine if it is >99% isopropanol alcohol (you could clean the TIM with the alcohol - the "non-pins" should be fine - antistatic precautions of course!!) just be careful with the MB with all the tiny SMT components on it!! Ah what fun... :hello: 

Bob
August 29, 2008 11:02:52 PM

Using rubbing alcohol (90% would prolly be best) should be fine. 90% would evaporate faster and leave less residue. If the blue coolant left blue stains, that would be what I'd be concerned with.

Other then that, letting it dry out completely should be the best thing. Using a hair dryer heating everything up could also help the drying faster.

When I clean my HSF out with hot water, I basically use a hair dryer to make it has hot as possible. Inspect it after it cools, then re-install it (approx 20-30mins) to test it on the same day.
August 29, 2008 11:26:11 PM

Grimmy said:
Using rubbing alcohol (90% would prolly be best) should be fine. 90% would evaporate faster and leave less residue. If the blue coolant left blue stains, that would be what I'd be concerned with.

Other then that, letting it dry out completely should be the best thing. Using a hair dryer heating everything up could also help the drying faster.

When I clean my HSF out with hot water, I basically use a hair dryer to make it has hot as possible. Inspect it after it cools, then re-install it (approx 20-30mins) to test it on the same day.


I am using %50 alcohol I bought at the 99. I do see some blue stains on the mobo but mainly in the case... What about the cpu? I see that it got wet also.... I am planning on letting it sit and dry for about a week until I decide to put it back together and power it up. I am also planning on buying a copperhead fan/heatsink cooler instead of the water cooling kit. I don't have the money to buy one at the moment but until then, I'm going to be drying it out with the q-tips (every detail).
August 29, 2008 11:33:33 PM

CPU should be fine to use rubbing alcohol. I wouldn't submerge it, just use lint free cloth to wipe off residue from the coolant. The main spot for attention would be the bottom where the contacts are.
August 29, 2008 11:47:11 PM

Grimmy said:
CPU should be fine to use rubbing alcohol. I wouldn't submerge it, just use lint free cloth to wipe off residue from the coolant. The main spot for attention would be the bottom where the contacts are.


The bottom where the contacts are is where it is mainly soaked. I can still see liquid from the water cooling system around every connections (in the edges where the outlining is).
August 29, 2008 11:57:55 PM

Is the CPU still in the socket?

If it is, take it out. Also take the MB out of the PC case.

With the CPU out, dry it off, and clean it.

Turn the MB upside down to let the coolant run out of the socket. Its really hard to say if any of the residue it leaves behind will cause problem later on, even after it has dried. That would be the main concerned I have, is the pin array on the socket.
August 30, 2008 1:09:40 AM

yea I took the cpu out and cleaned it. I hardly see any of the blue on the mobo but I do see it in the cracks (that is where I am mainly cleaning it out with alcohol and drying it. I do notice the blue on the q-tip which lets me know if I am cleaning it out. Right now I have the mobo, sound card, memory, cpu, and the water cooling system out of the case and letting it sit on anti-static paper.
August 30, 2008 5:01:34 AM

just take your time. took me a good few hours solid of cleaning, and a day to rest when my pump blew a seal.

drip rubbing alcohol in the spots you cant reach, then blow out with compressed air, and repeat to get the last of it out.
August 30, 2008 5:22:46 AM

rockbyter said:
just take your time. took me a good few hours solid of cleaning, and a day to rest when my pump blew a seal.

drip rubbing alcohol in the spots you cant reach, then blow out with compressed air, and repeat to get the last of it out.


I have my ceiling fan blowing on everything. I have all the components on anti-static paper layed out to dry for about a week. I still have to see whats up with the inside of my case because it looks as if it got to my hidden connections in the back panel.... *sigh* I am going to end up buying an air/heatsink fan for my cpu, water cooling is a little to much for me at the moment. Thanks for all the help guys, I will be coming back if I need more help. Appreciate it!
August 31, 2008 9:58:03 PM

Don't I have to get copperhead though? It'll be better. I absolutely don't mind paying that much at all I just need to know which ones better. I kinda want a cpu cooler that would look awesome inside also. I don't want to replace my water cooling system with a cpu fan that would look stock.... I am a big fan of modding but I don't have to much knowledge on it yet.
August 31, 2008 10:08:01 PM

Well.. copper will do better in some cases.

Even the top of your CPU, the IHS is made out of copper with nickle plating on top of it to help reduce tarnish.

The HSF I listed are huge. The Arctic Freezer Pro is also big, since its a tower type of HS, with a copper base.

Thing is, since the base of my ZeroTherm is plated, I still get good temps, which is linked to the ambient temps. Here's the temps I get using the ZeroTherm NV 120 in 75F ambient:



In that test, I use the max FPU stress test, which does push temps very high.

In 83-85F temps, my Tcase did reach 61C vs 47C in 75F.

So in air cooling, the keys to remember is airflow and ambient temps.
September 1, 2008 11:38:20 PM

As i understand it:
copper absorbs heat faster than aluminum. (gets hotter quicker)
Aluminum dissipates heat (cools off quicker) better than copper.

whatever material you choose, go with the heatsink with the most surface area you can afford, and multiple heatpipe circuits.
September 7, 2008 3:44:17 AM

I bought the Thermalright Ultra-120 and a few other things. I am waiting until it all arrives, I just hope nothing was damaged.... I'm still not sure but I gave everything a nice clean with alcohol and q-tips. It looks fine to me (no more blue stains, only in the case which didn't come off the aluminum). Before I install anything I'm going to give it a quick clean again to make sure I got everything out. I air sprayed the nearest pci slot to the cpu and blue water came out so I just dripped some alcohol in the pci slot and blew some air spray to get it clean.
September 7, 2008 6:24:33 AM

Sorry to hijack this, but how well does your Q6600 run at the 8x multi Grim? Any drawbacks from lowering it from the stock 9x? Does it help lower temps any due to 1 less multiplyer? Also, where did you get that network meter and system monitor gadgets :D  just PM me so we dont hijack more.
September 7, 2008 1:10:14 PM

It basically about the same. Hard to say if its actually harder on the NB with it at 400, but its been pretty stable. I haven't had one blue screen yet, after tweaking the voltage. I've also been using the standby/sleep (S3) feature allot. The uptime as pretty much be over 3 days so far after some reboots for some normal MS updates. Temps are pretty fair. Since its drastically got colder here my Tcase is 25C. :lol: 

But then my system is running 2.4ghz idle.

I got the network gadget from the MS site:

Wire Network Meter (IP, Upload, Download Speed)
September 11, 2008 12:45:11 PM

Ok so I get all my things shipped and they arrived yesturday. I stood up all night (didn't have time during the day and I wanted to have everything done asap) installing the thermalright ultra heatsink, cpu fan, I did some cable management/sleeving, rear exhaust fan, 4gb of ram (already had 2gb), and cleaned out all the dust from inside. I finally finish at 5:13a.m. Now as I mentioned earlier, I am not really good at doing these kind of things but I used common sense so I got through most of it. The thing that stresses me out about working on my pc is ALWAYS powering it back up. I push the button and it seems to be loading good, I see that everything is working properly, all of a sudden I get this:

Message Confirmation
The system intruded, chassis opened or tempered before, Please check system.

Then I hear 4 beeps and get this message:

Warning:Your computer CPU Fan Fail or speed too low.

My cpu fan has a speed controller and its set to hi....

I hope I don't have to take out the thermalright Ultra because that was a bit of a pain to install....

I also installed this program that came with my mobo, it's called probe ll and it tells me temps and pc info. I check it and the CPU fan is highlighted in red and also Power fan..... What did I do wrong.... Someone please help! Thanks.
September 11, 2008 1:30:41 PM

Just bios settings. Disable the feature for the chassis. Depending on the fan, if its not hooked up to the MB, but rather to the PSU, then just disable the alarm for the CPU fan.

You just need to get to know your bios better.
September 11, 2008 3:31:11 PM

I would avoid working overnight on PC stuff ... That's always when I've made mistakes!! (You know like cremating 2 U320 15K SCSI drives by rewiring a PSU wrong) :non: 

Good luck sorting out your BIOS - this shouldn't be too hard to pickup!!

Bob
a b à CPUs
September 11, 2008 4:59:04 PM

The lesson from this thread:

Use non-conductive liquids
September 12, 2008 12:54:54 AM

So this is not a problem? I didn't do anything wrong right? I need a little detailed explanation, I don't want to mess up anything in the bios due to the fact that I am capable of doing that lol. When it beeps four times it give me an option saying "do not display the message in the future", do I just do that? or do I need to dig into the bios and enable/disable stuff?

Also, the cpu fan IS connected to the mobo... there is a connection for the cpu fan somewhere else on the mobo that says cpu fan connection but the connection thats it on right now is the connection my other cpu fan was on....
September 12, 2008 1:43:39 AM

I can only suggest Zahlman Reserator. I used it for so many years and was never disappointed. Zahlman 4tw!
September 12, 2008 3:39:22 AM

If you want a detailed explanation, you should be able to find that in the MB manual. Here's another forum I found that talked about it:

System intruded, chassis opened or tempered before error

As far as the fan, its hooked up to the MB, there may be a chance that the wire which gives the RPM reading is broken. I've had some fans in the past that just didn't give an RPM reading so I'd get a warning from the bios. The solution was to either disable the warning or replace the fan.

Edit:

I also use a fan controller for my fans which are not hooked up to the MB. One reason why I do disable the warning.
September 12, 2008 4:50:55 AM

ok so words cannot explain how mad I am right now.... My computer won't turn on anymore..... I push the button and it turns on for about a couple of seconds and then shuts down..... I'm clueless and I think I voided my warranty opening it and installing that cpu fan.... grrr... I feel like exploding right now.... someone please help me out here....

P.S: Earlier I got rid of that error message, figured it out. Now it just doesn't want to turn on....
September 12, 2008 2:08:44 PM

Start a lil from scratch.

Disconnect all wires from the PC case (power button, reset button, ect). This will help you understand if any pc case buttons are stuck or faulty.

Uninstall all ram sticks but one. This will help you determine if the ram settings are not correct in the bios.

Uninstall all cards, except the video card.

If it post, go in the bios to the health monitor, and make sure your CPU is not over heating.

September 12, 2008 2:49:17 PM

virtual-slay3r said:
.... I'm clueless and I think I voided my warranty opening it and installing that cpu fan....


No I think you voided the warranty when you broke open the original CPU cooler!! :sol: 

Bob
September 14, 2008 2:17:23 AM

Grimmy said:
Start a lil from scratch.

Disconnect all wires from the PC case (power button, reset button, ect). This will help you understand if any pc case buttons are stuck or faulty.

Uninstall all ram sticks but one. This will help you determine if the ram settings are not correct in the bios.


I haven't done anything to it yet because I want to be calm when doing this, it just stresses me out thinking about the problem. After doing a little research on ibuypower, I figured I made a big mistake purchasing a pc from them. Anyway, back to the topic. About the ram, I had 2gb in my pc already, when I ordered the pc cooler I decided to buy 4gb more of ram. When my pc booted up the first time, I noticed that it was only reading 4gb and not the whole 6 (I checked through control panel/performance and maintenance/system)... I don't know if it may be a power problem because I also bought 2x 120mm fans, 1 for rear exhaust and the other for the CPU. I also installed a 80mm fan for my harddrive that I had for a while, never been used. I also have another 80mm fan blowing air in from the side panel and also another 120mm in the front of my case blowing air in. Could it possibly be a power problem? I have a 700watt PSU.

P.S: My sound card came with a front panel controller, I didn't take it out but I disconnected that because I don't use it. The sound card is still connected with the PCI-E psu connection.
September 14, 2008 4:37:54 PM

virtual-slay3r said:
I haven't done anything to it yet because I want to be calm when doing this, it just stresses me out thinking about the problem. After doing a little research on ibuypower, I figured I made a big mistake purchasing a pc from them. Anyway, back to the topic. About the ram, I had 2gb in my pc already, when I ordered the pc cooler I decided to buy 4gb more of ram. When my pc booted up the first time, I noticed that it was only reading 4gb and not the whole 6 (I checked through control panel/performance and maintenance/system)... I don't know if it may be a power problem because I also bought 2x 120mm fans, 1 for rear exhaust and the other for the CPU. I also installed a 80mm fan for my harddrive that I had for a while, never been used. I also have another 80mm fan blowing air in from the side panel and also another 120mm in the front of my case blowing air in. Could it possibly be a power problem? I have a 700watt PSU.


1 fan = 3-12 watts so that is not a problem.

RE 4Gb visible RAM. Perhaps you forgot to install a 64-bit OS? :sol: 

You posts are a bit garbled. Does the machine work at all now or not??

Bob
September 14, 2008 11:25:39 PM

bobwya said:
1 fan = 3-12 watts so that is not a problem.

RE 4Gb visible RAM. Perhaps you forgot to install a 64-bit OS? :sol: 

You posts are a bit garbled. Does the machine work at all now or not??

Bob


Well I have windows xp sp3 home edition.... and like I said, the machine turns on for like about 2 seconds and then turns right back off. Sorry if my posts are a bit confusing... there is a lot of **** I have to deal with so bare with me.
September 15, 2008 8:10:39 AM

Sorry but the number of times people say their PC is only showing 3-4Gb of RAM and ask what to do about this!! Then of course they read or are told that a 32-bit OS which will only address 4Gb memory space (less GPU RAM and memory mapped I/O which all maps into the 4Gb addressable space). This happens over, and over again... Only Windows XP x64 edition will see all of your system 6Gb system RAM (or the 64-bit Vista versions).

Lets go through the problems (assuming you had to take the whole thing apart):
1) Any beeps from the tiny case (or MB) speaker? This would indicate diagnostic problems that the MB is not happy about.
2) Does that GPU have the PCIe power connector plugged in:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/fullimage.php?image=4565
That is the black plug on the top right hand corner.
3) Have you any fans plugged directly into the MB? If so ensure they draw less than 600mA = ~6 Watts or unplug them.
4) Have you firmly plugged in the secondary 4- /8- pin CPU power connector on the MB?

Then I would try booting with only CPU, 1 RAM stick and fans only (no HD, optical drive, GPU, expansion cards, etc.). You won't be able to see what is happening if you don't have a spare PCI/PCIe graphics card but the machine will still boot in this configuration (or not if your MB has a problem of course)... If the machine doesn't shut down immediately you have learnt that perhaps lies with one of the components that is not plugged in. The PSU may be going into overload protection and shutting down which could indicate a conductive residue still present on the MB bridging components...

What PSU do you have? You listed a 400 Watt model as the stock crappy case bundled PSU... Have you replaced this with a 700 Watt model? If so what model of PSU are you using? Could there be a problem with this PSU?

Bob
September 15, 2008 8:46:17 AM

bobwya said:
Sorry but the number of times people say their PC is only showing 3-4Gb of RAM and ask what to do about this!! Then of course they read or are told that a 32-bit OS which will only address 4Gb memory space (less GPU RAM and memory mapped I/O which all maps into the 4Gb addressable space). This happens over, and over again... Only Windows XP x64 edition will see all of your system 6Gb system RAM (or the 64-bit Vista versions).

Lets go through the problems (assuming you had to take the whole thing apart):
1) Any beeps from the tiny case (or MB) speaker? This would indicate diagnostic problems that the MB is not happy about.
2) Does that GPU have the PCIe power connector plugged in:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/fullimage.php?image=4565
That is the black plug on the top right hand corner.
3) Have you any fans plugged directly into the MB? If so ensure they draw less than 600mA = ~6 Watts or unplug them.
4) Have you firmly plugged in the secondary 4- /8- pin CPU power connector on the MB?

Then I would try booting with only CPU, 1 RAM stick and fans only (no HD, optical drive, GPU, expansion cards, etc.). You won't be able to see what is happening if you don't have a spare PCI/PCIe graphics card but the machine will still boot in this configuration (or not if your MB has a problem of course)... If the machine doesn't shut down immediately you have learnt that perhaps lies with one of the components that is not plugged in. The PSU may be going into overload protection and shutting down which could indicate a conductive residue still present on the MB bridging components...

What PSU do you have? You listed a 400 Watt model as the stock crappy case bundled PSU... Have you replaced this with a 700 Watt model? If so what model of PSU are you using? Could there be a problem with this PSU?

Bob


1) at first yes, there was about 4 beeps and an error message came up telling me "Warning: Your computer CPU fan Fail or speed to low".

2) Yes it is plugged into the PCI-E connector

3)Only the CPU fan is connected to the mobo (3.84watts), all others are connected to the PSU connections.

4) Had it connected already.

I started to mess with the front panel power wires and it was booting up fine, it beeped once and I was all excited when all of a sudden it shuts down again. BOO!!! I am guessing it could be the power button... I will have to send it in to a repair shop and see if they can have a look at it.... I might as well... ibuypower is going to charge me anyways.

Special Thanks to all!



September 15, 2008 10:06:58 AM

virtual-slay3r said:


I started to mess with the front panel power wires and it was booting up fine, it beeped once and I was all excited when all of a sudden it shuts down again. BOO!!! I am guessing it could be the power button... I will have to send it in to a repair shop and see if they can have a look at it.... I might as well... ibuypower is going to charge me anyways.


Uhmm I doubt it is a problem with powersupply button but all they are is a "push-to-make" switch (i.e. makes contact only while it is pushed in). The motherboard handles debouncing, etc. You can rip a replacement out of any other PC you find lying around or get a replacement in any electronics hardware type place. They don't usually go wrong however...

Heres a link for BIOS beep codes:
http://bioscentral.com/
I think one beep is a normal boot - right (original IBM beep code)?

Have you tried clearing the BIOS yet?
  • Unplug the PSU from the mains.
  • Remove BIOS watch style lithium battery from MB.
  • Wait 30 seconds.
  • Replace BIOS watch style lithium battery back into holder on MB.
  • Plug in PSU again and boot...

    Its getting to the stage where someone who knows what they are doing needs to look at the system... me thinks!! :sol: 

    Bob

    !