Super quiet cooling for cpu and gpu

I can't make a 17DBA system with those components. Even a high quality low speed fan (and you'd need at least 4 of them for the radiator) is at 28DBA.

And a watercooling setup would be $450.

17 DBA, you need to get realistic please.

$300 Max for your CPU and GPU isn't enough.

CPU $65
GPU $80
Rad $120+
Pump $80
Res $25
Hose $20
Fans $20+


And Umm a radiator doesn't make noise. Fans are the loudest part in a watercooling setup.

How long have you been reading about watercooling? Frequenting forums, reading guides, looking at all the stores that sell quality watercooling? Took me 3 months before I ordered one part. Here is my standard cut n paste for situations like this. Cya in a week or more. And I'm not a personal parts shopper, thats your job.

Ohh and your case is wayy to small to fit a rad inside. This is the size of rad you need for quiet cooling with low speed fans. Brand new and VERY good. About 520MM long .
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hwlablicesr13.html
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lUs guys have done the WC thing, there are basics you gotta know. Take a look, don't take it as a diss on you or a rebuttal, look at as a friend saying "Dude, you gotta know what to say and how to communicate".
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CPU HS $65
GPU HS and air HS for vram and mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
Radiator $60 min, up to $130
Pump $50 +
Resiviour $25
Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
Fans $15-30

I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU.
First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
Spend a while (weeks is best for your sanity) at these links.
Look at the hundreds of loops close to your case and components in the stickies, read a couple 50 or so threads over the next week or so, you'll be on the ball to make the right choices and by then know how to put it together.
Not 'Roket Sience', but basic knowledge is required.
And you should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads. It's how we learn. Once the goodies show up on your doorstep your on your own.
For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. At the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC Forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.

Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.

Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky. Look here too…. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forum [...] p?t=223835
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Edit: The next paragraph was from 2008. With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big overclocks, better go 320 sized rad.
................................

IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.

Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.
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Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……
Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Rinse in 10 min or so. Put aside.
The bocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean.
All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. Run a rag using a coat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well.
Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
That’s it.
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Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
These are pretty standard and used by many.
Monitoring the PC temps overall: HWmonitor aka hardware monitor
CPUZ for CPU info
GPUZ for GPU info
CPU only: RealTemp
GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia

Loading/benching tools:
CPU loaders: Prime95 and OCCT
GPU Loaders: ATI Tool and the best one is Furmark, nothing pushes the GPU harder right now.
Benching for overall graphics/gaming performance is 3DMark06
……………………………………………………………
Guides
http://forums.extremeoverclocking. [...] p?t=282232 Pretty up to date info and buying guide
http://gilgameshreviews.com/index. [...] s&catid=40verclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=86 Another good guide
http://forums.extremeoverclocking. [...] p?t=312743 What to do once all the stuff is in the door
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forum [...] p?t=223835 Many build logs on MANY cases, great learning tool.

My latest rig:
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=604016

Forums
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/inde [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/ Decent site

Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests
http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forum [...] p?t=220593 More rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/ Host for Martins lab and some newer tests
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/ Test results, very technical


Stores
http://www.dangerden.com
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com
http://www.frozencpu.com/
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That's way too much But thanks for all the information...i'm looking into it (already have past few months too). Wouldn't a 240 be sufficient enough and put it onto the back of the case replacing the case fan? The Black Ice 240 is only 17 dba or so.

You could try insulating the case. That will help tremendusly with sound dampening.

There is also fanless cpu coolers avilable here...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 33c167s511


All That should work, right?

^ i think air would be the best option for this,

there is no point for water here because he is not one of those people who wants to overclock with a silent rig.

Overshocked linked some decent stuff. You'll need some fans on both, but not huge fans at all.

passive is just like a heat sink without a fan (=

I sound like such a noob. Looking at the 'core contact freezer' fan goes up to 20dba which is pretty quiet. So I can use this without a fan on a core i7 at stock?

Same with the passive cooling blocks you linked for the VGA?

Here...http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=54394

that was a test done with a fan on the back of the case with a duct... so expect a little higher temps than that. like maybe 45-50 idle 75 load...

those are fine temps.

Passive works by having good case air flow over the parts.

Tets talk science for a second. I'm sure you took thermodynamics 101 in school... LOL just kidding. The heat the CPU/GPU creates is removed by conduction onto the heatsink fins. They rise in temperature. The air flowing over them is cooler, so by a law of thermodynamics (forget who) the heat is transferred to the air, and you move the air away from the heatsink and replace it with more cool air. So the heat from the CPU is hotter now than the fins on the heatsink, it moves onto the fins of the heatsink OR the fins of the radiator. The air cools it.

Your problem is, if you take the time to review that CPU and GPU cooler (google is your hero here) you will see it's passive performance is just OK. You have a VERY VERY hot chip on the CPU AND GPU. BOTH coolers will need fans, slow speed but quiet. I have 9 Fans on my PC, and TWO pumps. It's 4 ft away from me behind my monitors. It's quieter than my TV, or my AC or a car outside the street.

You can go niosless on those in your case, but you'll need really HS fans, and add the side fan I mentioned AND cut a hole on the top of the case. More quiet fans than a few loud ones is quieter.

I'm done here, I gave you more than enough info. Hope you use that noggin of yours and start working. I used to teach electronics to 20 year olds for years, but I'm not about to spoonfeed someone who has no clue.

Learn.

i believe passive would be fine, It seems like it would cool better than the stock from what ive seen.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 33c167s511


Look again, you can buy a bolt through kit for $10 a little bit down the page.

Take it easy You will be surprised if I tell you my age (under 20 for sure) anyways and the other things I do. Don't worry I'm googling and even yahooing!

I'm still unsure as to what would be the best brands and what would be the best fans for these passive coolers.

For the CPU, would this be the best option: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6835207004

What about VGA? heh...trust me your help is appreciated.

So you think this will be the best option? There isn't much trouble in mounting those fans on the heatsink? Another problem I noticed is i'm unsure if this will fit into the case.

^ you could do that, or you could do exactly what this guy did.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/foru [...] hp?t=54394

He has one fan with an i7 and a decently hot video card.

And he uses the same cpu and vga block that i suggested.

if you do something like that and use sound padding in your case, it will be almost impossible to hear.

^ Yeah, and i know that the ccf is pretty good w/o its fan...although i have never tested it on an i7 like that =/

Number 2!

you know that! LOL

Yeah, its a great cooler.

but the reason i dont push it 100% of the time is people will accuse me of working for them )=

but i think a cooler that was made to be passive would work better in this case (=

Would you be able to fit a fan on the GPU passive cooling unit you mentioned too? Still seems like a lot of work with about the same quiet results as a good air system if using fans. I think I would be fine just replacing the cpu fan with a high-end system. The GPU seems oddly quiet.

Just in case here's a picture of my current system:

http://www.ivoog.com/mycomputer.jpg

Cut a hole in the side of your case...?

Wire, string, glue, you pick.

OK..so I measured the case and it should fit..barely. So here's a breakdown of what I will get...please correct me if anything is wrong

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] s511#blank

http://www.tekheads.co.uk/s/product?product=610116 - unsure how this would go on? pic?

And this fan (or something even more quiet) on the side of the heatsink - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] tl=g33c165

I would also buy some sound dampening stuff. Would this be good for the i7? Thanks everyone.

^that looks good. Tell us when u get it.

^ Are you talking about the passive cooling for the CPU or GPU??