H50 Setup

I just purchased the Corsair Hydro H50 and while I wait for it to arrive via UPS, I'm trying to plan out how I will arrange the fans in my case. I have a Antec 300 case which is a mid tower so room in there is kind of limited.

I do plan on putting the radiator on the rear of the case with the fan sitting in between the chassis and radiator, blowing air into the case. My question is, if I have this set up...

Quote :

- 3x front 120mm intake (1 of the 3 fans is completely blocked by hard drives)
- 1x 140mm top exhaust
- 1x 120mm side intake

Do you think, in your opinion, the overall temp in my case will be low since there will only be 1 exhaust in my case according to this setup? Or do you suggest a different setup?

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3 120mm front fans seems like overkill.

Message quoted 1 times

Reply to cmichael138

Well, those fans don't push much air and the very bottom 120mm fan is cooling 3 HDDs so I don't really count that fan as a fully dedicated intake to cool the rest of the computer.

Message edited by faint545 on 08-01-2009 at 02:48:35 AM

Reply to faint545

Can't you adjust the fans? Most Antec cases have a 3 position switch, and on high the fans aren't bad, a bit louder than a really quality fan at the same airflow.

Actually you have two intake fans, and one you can place farther into the case to 'assist' the lower fan and increase air flow across a lower GPU etc card.

I see a lotta modding on cases. I would hate to mess with the designed case airflow on that case for the H50. Your case has good flow to start with, I'd try the H50 using exhaust first and make SURE the rad fan is on as high as you can get it. Your temps might be fine. If you reverse the flow and pull cool air through the rad into the case, consider making sure the top 120mm fan is on high, and maybe replace the top fan with even a higher CFM fan if your not happy with case temps.

Don't expect miracles with the H50, it's a decent cooler, as good as a TRUE or other high end coolers.

Let us know your results.

Reply to Conumdrum

cmichael138 wrote :

3 120mm front fans seems like overkill.

You haven't seen the Antec 1200 yet have you

Quote :

Don't expect miracles with the H50, it's a decent cooler, as good as a TRUE or other high end coolers.

Correction, better than TRUE, 1C slower than Sunbeam Corecontact

I have this cooler, it is great my Q6600 with a mild overclock to 2.8GHZ is running at 31C doing regular stuff under normal load
full load just touches 51C

it has a radiator to dispel heat, so the more airflow you have in your case, better temps

I have the Antec 1200 and just so you know, I know of a person with a closed case from HP he installed the H50 his temps are way better than before, but not close to mine

so airflow determines cooling in the case of the H50

Reply to TerminatorXT

Yes, it is decent. I have read all the reviews and had discussions with one of the marketers from Corsair on two other forums. It's not big time watercooling, it's an option. We would like to see them make a 120x2 rad setup to make it really better than air cooling, not 1-3C better.

Reply to Conumdrum

Hmm. Alright, thanks for the input. I guess i'll try a bunch of different ways and see which comes out with the best results. I was thinking of having all fans draw air in with the exception of the top 140mm fan and placing that fan on high, forcing all the hair to rise up to the top. I feel like this would work pretty well, but at the same time I feel like it would raise the temps.

From what I've seen, I really think the H50 is the best of zero maintenance, compact, low noise cooling that I have seen so far. I've done custom water cooled systems in the past (against pre-built h20 systems w/ the exception of this) and maintenance was an issue. Although I did get some really low temps in the winter.

Reply to faint545

I have an Antec 300 case also but I did some case modding, also Koolance EXOS 2 set-up.......happy with it OC'ed 3.7 on Q9450 24/7.....

That looks like a ripoff of the coolit domino setup except no LCD. Try adding a fan on the rad for a push/pull config

------------------------------ Core I7 920 D0 @ 4.2Ghz
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Reply to PsychoSaysDie

my Q6600 is idleing at 23C and maxes out at 50C
Overclocked to 2.8Ghz

i know its not much
but considering my room temp is 22C thats pretty good

^Overclocked to 2.8? Did you get that using AI Booster from Asus? (smug grin) You can just flip your FSB from 266 to 333 and automatically get 3.0ghz...

That's like putting octane booster in a Ford Escort. Seriously, the Q6600's can easily get to 3.4+...even close to 4.0. Mine gets there...just not stable much over 3.62.

Message edited by rubix_1011 on 08-06-2009 at 02:59:36 PM

Reply to rubix_1011

nope I did it myself in the BIOS...

last time I did that, I ended up with a 3.0GHZ dual core

and when I went even higher

i got a 3.2GHZ dual core

keep in mind I have a quadcore

Yeah, I have the same quadcore chip you do...the Q6600.

Message quoted 1 times

Reply to rubix_1011

rubix_1011 wrote :

Yeah, I have the same quadcore chip you do...the Q6600.

B3 or G0?

G0. B3 still OC pretty dang well...

Message quoted 1 times

Reply to rubix_1011

rubix_1011 wrote :

G0. B3 still OC pretty dang well...

well I have the B3

Maybe he doesn't use that computer for demanding stuff like gaming, video editing. That's why small overclock

To OP, post some results after

Message quoted 1 times
Message edited by overshocks on 08-10-2009 at 11:46:57 PM

------------------------------ You can select me as Best Answer
e6400 oc'd 3.2ghz,CCF cooler
3870x2, p5k/epu
750watts psu, antec 900
Reply to overshocks

overshocks wrote :

Maybe he doesn't use that computer for demanding stuff like gaming, video editing. That's why small overclock

To OP, post some results after

I do all of those of those things, thank you

I only did the small overclock because when I aimed for 3.2ghz, I ended up with a dual core

just like last time again I can't get it stable at 3.2ghz

I have a summer job, so I won't do any overclocking this week, wait for the weekend

Reply to TerminatorXT

You either have a defective chip or motherboard, then. The only way you should be able to disable cores is via the BIOS or if you disable them on OS boot. Try flashing your motherboard BIOS to see if that helps. If you aren't sure what you are doing, make sure you do research first, as you can really screw it up if you don't let it fully complete.

How do you know for sure you ended up with a 'dual core' ?

Message quoted 1 times

Reply to rubix_1011

rubix_1011 wrote :

You either have a defective chip or motherboard, then. The only way you should be able to disable cores is via the BIOS or if you disable them on OS boot. Try flashing your motherboard BIOS to see if that helps. If you aren't sure what you are doing, make sure you do research first, as you can really screw it up if you don't let it fully complete.

How do you know for sure you ended up with a 'dual core' ?

Windows task manager, Device manager, everest, sidebar app

I've heard of a CPU PLL voltage that would lose cores if set too high

I have my voltage on auto... so... the problem could lie there

Reply to TerminatorXT

CoreTemp/RealTemp...see how many cores report.

If your CPU voltage is set to AUTO that shouldn't be your problem. If anything, it might just limit your overclock because it would keep your processor at safe levels at all times. If your CPU voltage is that screwy, you have more problems than just overclocking.

Reply to rubix_1011

That's weird, it'll end up as a dual core, damn never heard that before due to overclocking. PLL voltage shouldn't be a problem.

------------------------------ You can select me as Best Answer
e6400 oc'd 3.2ghz,CCF cooler
3870x2, p5k/epu
750watts psu, antec 900
Reply to overshocks

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Forum Overclocking : Cooler and Heatsinks - H50 Setup