I recently bought a Koolance Exos AL with a Zalman WB5 Plus off a friend for cheap and replaced my Zalman 9700LED.
But now my idle temps are 50C and with my Zalman it was 38C
My Cpu(i7 920) is running at 3.8ghz @ 1.2v
My Mobo is Asus P6T Deluxe OC Palm
The Koolance Exos Al isnt completely full, about just over half full.(I know, I'm gonna get more coolant after the weekend).
Would filling the tank make a 10 degree difference?
When I run Prime 95 it shoots up to over 87C and with my Zalman it never went over 78C
When you put the Zalman WB5 on what type of grease did you use and yes your system should be filed with water. Exos Al I'm not familiar with are you sure of the model name.
The block isn't nearly capable of handling an i7. Thats your number one issue.
You'll need a new block for sure. And yes, you should replace your fluid every year or so. Since the Koolance uses aluminum and copper, I'd ONLY use the liquid sold by Koolance to refill it after you rinse it really well.
That system should be able to cool an i7. Lots of watercoolers start out with one of these overpriced weak prone to breakage units and move to non-kit watercooling.
When you put the Zalman WB5 on what type of grease did you use and yes your system should be filed with water. Exos Al I'm not familiar with are you sure of the model name.
I used the Zalman grease that came with the WB5 PLUS.
This is the Info/Guide list from the TOP watercooling forum. The site is owned by one of the world record overclockers. People from all over the world posts here.
Please find one good thing about that block, or even a mention of it.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forum [...] p?t=202394
Next, that block is a copper bottom and an aluminum top. Anodized means nothing, it wears off. having copper and aluminum in a loop means dissimilar metal corrosion. The aluminum corodes and it builds up on the copper through leaching of ions. Bad stuff. I did have pics.
Redo your liquid, reseat the block with better quality Tpaste if you can find it and try that. Make sure your fans are working properly and on HIGH when your loading it.
+1 for Conumdrum. I would NEVER run a mixed loop. Period. Also if possible you can get a GTZ or even the lesser GTX or other similer top quality block (as in EK,etc).
edit WTF?!?!? It's CHEAPER than ANYWHERE else?!?! It's just $40 and with bracket $50, even then its cheaper than at petras,newegg,etc?!??? Conumdrum have you seen this? Usually Frozen has a higher price than any one else. Now I'm really tempted to get a few(2-3 for the future i7/i5 builds near Christmas) for $40 a pop.......I'd save $30 overall for 3 blocks with i7 brackets.
Message edited by Shadow703793 on 09-06-2009 at 07:26:32 PM
Old fluid can clog blocks, ruin pumps, reduce flow rates.
Okay. My watercooling system on an i7 965 at 3.3 stock
82F ambient air temp
Idle right now 38C
It will load at no more than 56C running OCCT Linpack all day long.
I have a GTZ CPU block
Laing DDC3.2 pump with and XSPC restop
Thermochill PA 120.3 radiator
3 medium speed yate loon fans.
If I was to bump to 4.0 I'd be around 63C load, maybe 65C.
I repace my fluid every 6 months and completely tear down my rig about once a year.
Just general info what you should do once a year to keep your WC at 100%:
Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……
Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Let sit for 10 minutes or so, then rinse well, put on a towel to dry.
The blocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean. You can pour it in a clean bowl and inspect the water if you like.
All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. It’s very relaxing with some mellow jazz in the background. Run a rag using a coat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well. I always consider replacing my hose every year. Plasticizers leach out, the tubing isn’t as flexible. Consider it a ‘Hobby Cost’.
Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
That’s it.
Your pump could be going bad, how good is the flow rate? You need two 10 gallon containers and water. You should be 1-1.5 GPM per minute. with all the cooling parts in the loop. So measure AFter your rad/pump/CPU block.
Your pump could be going bad, how good is the flow rate? You need two 10 gallon containers and water. You should be 1-1.5 GPM per minute. with all the cooling parts in the loop. So measure AFter your rad/pump/CPU block.
Pay attention, I already typed it...........
Message edited by Conumdrum on 09-07-2009 at 02:25:03 AM