So anyway, as a continuation of my former post, here's a list of the computer parts:
I'm a complete newbie to water cooling, so I'll run through my plan and you posters can give me advice
#1: Assemble the GPU & CPU + cooler (with thermal paste) on the motherboard
#2: Install radiator + pump + reservoir (mount reservoir 3" above the motherboard on blocks to insure air is removed from the system)
#3: Connect hoses to all required parts
#4: Begin filling the system with water. Put paper towels around every connection to check for leaks. Fill until reservoir is just above fill line. The other parts should fill with water.
#5: Plug in just the pump and radiator fans to the PSU; short circuit the ATX Power connection so the pump runs. Add coolant as needed
#6: Run cooling system for 10 minutes to get all the air out and insure there are no leaks.
#7: Add PT Nuke to the system
#8: Hook up the rest of the system (Memory, HDD, monitor, keyboard, mouse), and connect the PSU to everything. Power it on again and make sure it POSTs.
#9: Carefully monitor the system for several hours insuring there are no leaks; up to 48h if necessary
All parts have already been ordered from prior thread recommendations, so if there's anything that should be changed, it'll have to be ordered new.
For now I have one question: In addition to the metal fasteners, can I glue the tubes onto the plugs using some sort of mid-strength bonding glue? I'd like to be sure they won't leak or slip while I'm not there, yet I'd like something that won't chew through the tubes or be impossible to clean off when it comes time to take apart the system.
Any other advice\comments are greatly appreciated, I'm new at this so most of this post comes from reading various guides etc. on the forums. Thanks for reading
Best of luck, now it's up to you. Make sure you read the link 'what to do once it's all in the door" listed below.
OMG you haven't read much. GLUE? WTF? NO ONE USES GLUE. Your clamps are more than fine.
You got good stuff ordered, be careful. Be anal, be slow, don't rush. You prolly read this, but I'll repost it again.
Leak test a long time if it's your first. Ohh and your pretty pictures are that, pretty. Nice job. Nice to know about all the other stuff your getting, I don't think a keyboard matters when it comes to watercooling, but okay..............
Us guys have done the WC thing, there are basics you gotta know. Maybe this long rewritten and modified thing will help.
CPU HS $65
GPU HS and air HS for Vram and Mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
Radiator $60 min, up to $130
Pump $65 +
Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU. You can do it for less, but a CPU only loop is $250 or so, add a GPU, add $100. If your looking at an i7 and a BIG GPU, start thinking about a big rad, possibly two rads, or even TWO loops.
First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
Spend a while reading this info, get a feel for what your getting into and learn.
It’s not 'Roket Science', but you need to know the basics and the lingo as a beginner.
You should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads, guides and more. It's how YOU learn. I can recommend the best stuff, but there are things only reading and participating on forums will ya learn anything. You don’t have to join all the forums. But reading ALL the WC stickies and many threads that interest you is important. A thread might be 50 replies long, and 15 of those replies might be what you needed to ‘PASS THE TEST’. Remember, once the $500 of goodies show up on your doorstep you’re on your own.
For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. It took me a while; I was big into Air over clocking and started to read about water-cooling. I made my decision to water-cool. THREE months later I made my first purchase of parts. Yes it took me that long and I have built a few systems and always just fine.
Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. Your temps with a good WC rig will be better than you could of got on air, guaranteed. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.
Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators do NOT fit in many cases. Reading up on pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky. Look here too…. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22...
2009/2010 Heat thoughts:
With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger dual chip GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big over clocks, better go 320 sized rad.
Expect an i7 at 4.1 to be putting out close to 250 watts. Using the radiator testing charts, a PA 120.3 with medium fans on high you’ll get a Delta T of 5C, very good. Some have suggested a GTX295 puts out about 250 watts of heat, possibly more like 280 under load. You try and put both of those on a 120x3 radiator the CPU will not over clock at all, it will be very very unhappy. You want to learn more about heat load and the all important measurement, Delta T, read up in the stickies I provided.
2007/2008 Old stuff heat thoughts:
For a setup using the old Q6600 CPUs and the old 4870 and GTX280 cards this is for you.
IF you just cool your CPU and you’re NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.
Just general info what you should do once a year to keep your WC at 100%:
Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……
Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Let sit for 10 minutes or so, then rinse well, put on a towel to dry.
The blocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean. You can pour it in a clean bowl and inspect the water if you like.
All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. It’s very relaxing with some mellow jazz in the background. Run a rag using a coat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well. I always consider replacing my hose every year. Plasticizers leach out, the tubing isn’t as flexible. Consider it a ‘Hobby Cost’.
Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
These are pretty standard and used by many.
Monitoring the PC temps overall: HW monitor aka hardware monitor
CPUZ for CPU info
GPUZ for GPU info
CPU only: Real Temp
GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia
i'll be honest i didnt read the entire last reply because i'm at work and don't have time to do that... but i have a q9400 over volted and overclocked and a 4870 both cooled on the same loop using one 2x120 radiator, and things stay just under the bar for what's acceptable. but it's a media pc, in a small case and a 2x120 was the biggest i could swing.
my water cooled parts will probably pull than half of what yours will. i have a 95w tdp processor and yours is 135. and you have twice the graphics card. your 3x120 radiator if you have good air flow will probably *just* do it for you with very minor overclocks.
my processor is set to 1.28 volts and after an hour of gaming, or prime95 will till touch 60c. if there's a place in your case where you can add even a 1x120 radiator i'd do it.
Also, i'd avoid water, and go for some sort of water replacement (i use pc ice) . it avoids problems with little drips and spills while filling the system and before you've put your additive in. That's just a matter of opinion though. with adequate care and patience you should have no issues with your method.