First Gaming Build - Compatability? Advice?

I am currently working on my first build for a mid-range gaming system. I have already bought the case but was wondering if all other components are compatable with each other and if there is anything that i should change.

Antec 900 case
Already bought
ASUS P5K-E/WIFI-AP LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz 6MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor
G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
EVGA 512-P3-N861-AR GeForce 9600 GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card
ASUS Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 14X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 20X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe
Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3250410AS 250GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
Rosewill RP550V2-D-SL L 550W SLI Ready-ATX12V V2.01 Dual Fans Power Supply 115/230 V CSA,UL,TUV,FCC
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  1. It looks good except I wouldn't trust that power supply and would go with DDR2 800 memory.
  2. Well if i were you i would get a antec/corsair/ocz psu around 550w, 4gb ddr2 800 and a radeon 4850 GPU. It would be like 100-120$ more but you would get alot of performance.
  3. I would go with a P45 Mobo, P5Q-E or P5Q Premium. Get a better psu. EA 500 from Antec or EA 650 from Antec, Corsair 750W.
  4. Check on that PSU; seems to me it was a Rosewill of that wattage that they approved. Otherwise, Rosewill PSUs are on a "Do not buy" tier of a commonly used (though somewhat dated) PSU listing at
    There are a lot of newer models that aren't listed, but if you stick to Corsair, OCZ, Antec, PC Power & Cooling, Enermax, or other brand with nothing below tier-3, you should be fine. Newegg has some really good deals right now on some Antec, OZC, and even a PC P&C model.
  5. Your PSU is junk. OK, maybe it's the exception and it's great, I don't know but then it's too small to be future-proof and too expensive for its size.

    It costs $71.42 after shipping. $80 (after rebate, with free shipping) buys you a top-quality product with more power.
    PC Power & Cooling S61EPS 610W
    Or, a 750TX for $100, if you want more power.

    Your HDD is not that great either. $60 buys you 250GB of rather slow disk (64.40 MB/s average read). $85 could buy you 640GB of really fast disk (90MB/s average read)

    RAM: if you're willing to pay $8 more, you can have 4GB instead of 2 GB:
    Mushkin 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800

    Motherboard: save $10, get a P5Q Pro. You lose the Wi-Fi (if you care, add a PCI-card for it). You get a better fsb for overclocking, and the ability to run Crossfire at 8x+8x in PCI-E 2 slots. In comparison, the P5K runs it at 4x on PCI-E 1 for the second card, which means 4 times less bandwidth and really hurts.

    Video card: Georgy is right, get a HD 4850. With the PSU and MB I suggested, you can add a second video card later. Trust me, a system with two HD 4850 cards is very impressive. OK, you'd have to pay another $100 or $150 for the second card at some point, but it will help a lot.

    Good case/CPU/burner.
  6. Thanks everyone for the advice. I understand the points you guys/gals make about the PSU and mobo and video card, but one question i have. Whats the real difference between DDR2 800 an DDR2 1066? It seems everyone swears by the 800 and I'm not exactly sure why???
  7. The "800" is usually cheaper, and still fast enough to run in a 1:1 ratio if used with a P45 or X48 motherboard. For example E8400 can run at 3.6GHz on a P45 (fsb 1600) with DDR2-800 and all the numbers match nicely (all multiples of 400 MHz).

    Also, some motherboards have trouble recognizing the DDR2-1066.
  8. +1 to aevms suggestion on hdd (640gb), huge improvment for 25 bucks.
    and +1 to 4gb ddr-800 for $8. more RAM much better than 1066 vs 800. But do keep in mind if you aren't running a 64bit OS it won't recognize all of it.

    4850 is a solid increase if you do the other recommendations. sets you up nicely for not having to change for a bit and still able to add another if you choose.
  9. oops posted before i saw your post. disregard. :) :)
  10. That's a beautiful build.

    Any particular reason why P5Q-E and not P5Q Pro? It's $29 more, and I'm just curious which of the additional features in the P5Q-E you find useful.
  11. Actually there is no reason for that choice. The only advantage I could really see would be the P5Q-E has eSATA but that really isn't all the huge of a concern to me and I don't think its worth the extra $29 in my case. Good eye, thanks!
  12. what os are you running?
  13. XP Pro
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