Q6600 or 6700

[Europa2010AD]

I'd like to get some opinions as to whether or not the Q6700 is worth the $80 difference compared to the Q6600. I am currently planning to build a new rig with the Q6600, which will be OC'ed to around 2.8-3.0Ghz in the future. However, since I am aiming to keep this new system for at least around 4 years, I'm comtemplating getting the Q6700 instead.

Suggestions, comments will be appreciated!

 

[dagger]

For only 2.8-3ghz, there's no difference. Q6600 and q6700 are the same chip, except one use 9x multiplier, the other 10x. At 1600mhz fsb, that's 3.6ghz for q6600, and 4ghz for q6700. If you use an old motherboard with low fsb ceiling, q6700 may be worth the extra.

 

[br3nd064]

Like dagger said, it's probably only worth the extra money if you have a low-quality or older motherboard.

 

[Europa2010AD]

Well I'm planning to get a Gigabyte Mobo (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128358). Is that considered new or..?

I most likely won't be OCing the Q6600 (if I'm getting it) to 3.6Ghz -- it'll be the first time I OC anything so I rather play it safe -- I think I'll be happy with 2.8 - 3.0Ghz.

So with that Gigabyte Mobo in mind, would you guys suggest I just go for the Q6600?

 

[Zorg]

That's a good mobo. Get the Q6600 with DDR2 667 or DDR2 800 RAM that runs at 1.8-1.9V and OC it very easily to 3G/1333.

Get the The XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 with the XIGMATEK ACK-I7751 Retention Bracket (Backplate) to keep it cool, you will be glad you did. If you decide to use the S1283, then be sure to cover the whole CPU IHS with a very thin film of TIM, because the heat pipes don't allow for proper spreading through contact.

 

[Europa2010AD]

That's a good mobo. Get the Q6600 with DDR2 667 or DDR2 800 RAM that runs at 1.8-1.9V and OC it very easily to 3G/1333.

Get the The XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 with the XIGMATEK ACK-I7751 Retention Bracket (Backplate) to keep it cool, you will be glad you did. If you decide to use the S1283, then be sure to cover the whole CPU IHS with a very thin film of TIM, because the heat pipes don't allow for proper spreading through contact.

I was looking at the S1283 as well, until I saw the S1284EE. It's only a few dollars more for an extra heatpipe. Should I go for that instead, or stick with S1283??

Sorry I'm not quite following with the abbreviations.. what's IHS? And TIM refers to the thermal paste right -- I'm planning to get Arctic Silver 5.

I actually read a thread saying it's better to put a thin line along each heatpipe, and as you're mounting the heatsink, make sure the heatpipe is running horizontally across the cores... thoughts?

 

[dagger]

Benchmarks:
http://www.frostytech.com/top5heatsinks.cfm

For mounting, just put a blob in the center and let it spread out by itself. With lines you run the risk of leaving larger air pockets.

 

[Zorg]

Benchmarks:
http://www.frostytech.com/top5heatsinks.cfm

For mounting, just put a blob in the center and let it spread out by itself. With lines you run the risk of leaving larger air pockets.

The S1283/4 has exposed heatpipes and the paste will fill the gaps in between them and the base, the dab in the middle will not spread properly.

Europa2010AD, IHS is the Integrated Heat Sink, the metal plate on top of the CPU. TIM is Thermal Interface Material, or thermal grease, Arctic Silver is fine.

That's lupiron's post I believe. I think he is referring to the three heatpipe S1283, and as far as I can tell his TIM application method works just as good. If I was you I would PM (Personal Message) him and ask his views on whether he thinks the orientation concerns that he has would be the same for the S1284. I spread a thin layer over the IHS and did not worry about the orientation and it worked very well. I pointed the HSF toward the rear of the machine, so that would put the heatpipes going across the two chips. I don't believe it makes that much difference, but that's just my opinion with absolutely nothing to back it up.

If you do get the S1284 be sure to get the XIGMATEK ACK-I7753 Retention Bracket For 4 heatpipes model. Be sure to use the backplate, because the push pin mounting system is abysmal.

 

[Europa2010AD]

I see. Judging from the frostytech benchmark, I guess I'll go for S1283... even though I don't understand why 3 heatpipes would outperform 4...

Anyway. So using the retention plate eliminates the need to use push-pins? (I've never used a retention plate before so I don't know its exact mounting method)

 

[Zorg]

You stick the plate to the bottom of the mobo, then you screw the springs to the HS and screw the assembly to the mobo. It's not hard and the only way to go.

The push pins are really that bad, spend the 7 bucks.

The 1284 is .2C warmer, which is negligible, but at a 6.5 dBa lower noise level. The synthetic isn't too much different a couple of degrees. Flip a coin on it.

 

[Zorg]

Make sure your case is deep enough, most standard mid-towers are. I know it fits well in the Antec 300.

 

[Europa2010AD]

I see. I think I'll go ahead and get the S1283 and its retention plate then. I'm planning to get the Antec 900 -- judging from the dimensions listed on newegg, it's very slightly bigger then 300... so I guess it should be deep enough...?

Btw.. is there usually a thanksgiving sale on newegg? I'm trying to decide if I should go ahead and order the parts now and put together the new rig over thanksgiving break, or wait for the sale (if there's going to be one)...

 

[Zorg]

I don't remember, their prices hop around a lot though.