First important question: are these two drives IDE or SATA? The way to tell is by the multi-wire ribbon cable for data that connects from drive to motherboard port. On an IDE drive this is about 2" wide (5 cm) and contains 80 (or maybe 40) wires. On a SATA machine the cable is only about ¾" wide (2 cm) and contains only 7 wires.
If both your drives are SATA, do NOT look for any jumpers to change. Post back here if that is your situation.
If both drives are IDE AND you have them both plugged into one cable and one mobo port, you DO need to pay attention to jumpers. Look on the back edge of the drive, near where the data ribbon cable and the 4-wire power supply connectors are. You will see a group of pairs of brass pins, and there probably is a small plastic block slipped over two of them. That block contains metal contacts to link two pins together - it is the "jumper" for those pins.
Look closely at the label on each drive. It should have a little diagram of how the jumper should be placed on the pins to set whether the drive is a Master, a Slave, or a "CS" setting. On any IDE port and cable there MUST be ONE device with its jumpers set to Master. That device should be plugged into the END connector on the data cable. If your second drive is being connected to a DIFFERENT mobo port with a different data cable, it will also need to be set to Master so it can be Master of the second port. BUT if you are connecting the second drive to the SAME cable as the first one, then the new drive MUST be set to Slave by its jumper. Plug the Slave unit into the MIDDLE connector on the cable.
The exception to these rules is the "CS" for Cable Select setting. If you choose this option, BOTH drives MUST be set to "CS" with their jumpers. Then the older drive with your OS on it that you've always used should be connected to the END connector on the cable to make it the Master, and the new drive to the middle for Slave. (This is just because I assume your BIOS is set to boot from the Master device on this port.)
Post back here how things go. If it all works, we can cheer! But if this does not solve your problem, describe what does happen. There are more subtle issues that could be involved. In that case, also tell us exactly what motherboard you have, and what HDD drives you have - manufacturer names and model numbers for all. That will help diagnose if it still is not working.
thanks bro but i think is my new hdd problem couz when i conect with eletricu cables it's same problem and if a change with my old hdd its same problem (shot down and make alarm ppiip ppiip piip and turn on a red light on my pc
my new hdd is: hitchi
The alarm signal you mention may actually have a useful code in it. Sometimes a plain alarm just beeps at you. But as the BIOS first starts up in its POST sequence, it puts out signals in the form of beeps to let you know its result. For example, the nicest one is a single beep as the POST finishes successfully. But if you are hearing a particular pattern, like three short beeps, or two short and one long, or some such pattern, go to the website of your motherboard manufacturer and look for the meaning of the beep codes. This will give you more information on what is wrong.
Are you saying that this problem happens only when your new drive is connected? Or, does it happen even without that?
No, you don't have enough information to diagnose the problem. The best tools for that are in a free diagnostic utility package you can download from the website of your hard drive's manufacturer. They can check the drive and tell you what is wrong. If you want it replaced under warranty the Tech Support guys will want to know the results of these tests, so write them down.
I will give you a way to use the DFT tests built into your drive. Download the Drive Fitness Test Users Guide (half way down the page) for instructions. IF you have a floppy drive and diskettes, download the Diskette creator for Windows OS just below that and run it to create a bootable floppy diskette. Then boot from that floppy to run the tests. The basic tests are completely non-destructive for any data already on the hard drive (you may have none). BUT it does include tools to completely wipe out the Boot Sector or the whole disk, and those operations both WILL destroy any old data. That may be no problem for you. It appears you have not been able to put any data on your new drive, anyway.
IF you have no floppy drive, you will need to download instead the CD Image file. BUT then you also will need some software able to burn an "ISO Image" to a CD-R to create a bootable optical disk you can run tests from. There are several free burner software packages available - for example, Nero (Trial version) or CDBurner XP. Look for them on the web if you don't have.
Note the short items just below this about the OGT Diagnostic Tool you need instead IF you have the particular drive units it specifies.