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Lookin' to build a new system... newb

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September 23, 2008 1:17:22 PM

Hey ya'll I am sure this has been asked numerous times tried searching but nothing satisfied what I was seeking.

I have never built a system before so first question is: Is it worth building a system over building one from lets say ibuypower? It seems like ibuypower has pretty cheap prices so what is the hassle worth actually building a system?

Secondly, what is generally the most important pieces (in order of importance) for a gaming rig? For the moment I plan on playing WAR so which components should I focus on and not be cheap with?

Thirdly, I know numerous people have listed machines for under $1,000 but I am having difficulty finding modern or new posts with budget gaming pcs.

FYI I am trying to find/build a system with OS under $800

More about : lookin build system newb

September 23, 2008 1:42:47 PM

do you need a monitor/keyboard/mouse for the $800? What parts do you have that you can or will reuse?
September 23, 2008 1:47:32 PM

Moniter, keyboard, mouse excluded from that $800.

It will be brand spankin new from scratch... no parts to use.

EDIT: I would actually like to keep it under $700 if possible. w/o monitor
Related resources
September 23, 2008 2:11:32 PM

LITE-ON Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache IDE 20X DVD±R DVD Burner - OEM

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

$23

Western Digital Caviar SE WD3200AAJS 320GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$60

Open Box: MSI K9A2 Platinum AM2+/AM2 AMD 790FX ATX AMD Motherboard

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$105

OCZ Vista Upgrade 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$59

AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ Windsor 3.0GHz 2 x 1MB L2 Cache Socket AM2 125W Dual-Core Processor - Retail

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$93

Microsoft Windows Vista Home Basic SP1 64-bit English 1pk for System Builders DSP OEI DVD - OEM
$90

Antec Three Hundred Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Antec True Power Trio TP3-650 650W ATX12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply with Three 12V Rails - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Combo deal @ $120

ASUS EAH4850/HTDI/512M Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

$170.


Hows about that build?

Totals $720
September 23, 2008 2:21:36 PM

MOBO - ASUS P5Q SE LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

CPU - Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz 6MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

PSU - Rosewill RP550V2-D-SL 550W ATX12V v2.01 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

GPU - ASUS EAH4850/HTDI/512M Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

RAM - mushkin 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

HDD - Seagate ST3640323AS 640GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Heatsink - XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
and
XIGMATEK ACK-I7751 Retention Bracket
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

OS - Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 64-bit English for System Builders 1pk DSP OEI DVD - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

CD/DVD - LG Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 20X DVD±R DVD Burner w/ SecurDisc Tech - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Case - COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-UW Black Aluminum Bezel , SECC Chassis ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Total price = $882 w/out shipping.

I did not include any combo deals and/or mail-in-rebates so it would be relatively easy to get below $800. If you want to safely be under $800 the you could switch from the GPU above to an nvidia 8800GT (-$60) and switch the CPU to the E7200 ($-60) for a new total of $762.
September 23, 2008 2:28:49 PM

Thanks so much for your reply... being noob and never have owning a amd processor I am having a tough time trying to decide between AMD and Intel. I have heard ATI vid cards work better with AMD is that just hogwash or does it have some validity?

Also if you could take a look at what I listed and tell me what you think I would appreciate it. :) 
September 23, 2008 2:40:50 PM

I would go with intel e8400 option better. And no it's not true ati cards works better with amd processors since they are same company....you can say opposite since intel cpus are faster and thus you will get more out of your graphic card. I have q6600@3.4ghz with 4850 and it works perfectly
September 23, 2008 2:52:48 PM

The other question I really wanted to know what is the pro's to building your own vs customizing one on lets say ibuypower?

It seems like the price is very similar so why dont I make someone else do the work and not have to worry about screwing up? :) 
September 23, 2008 3:05:32 PM

1. it is very hard to screw up a build. hell, I built my own which is saying a lot. All you really need is your own thermal paste ($5) and I would recommend an anti-static wrist strap ($4).

2. the satisfaction of sitting down at a computer you built is pretty amazing.

3. even if you only save $50 it is still worth it but I just priced almost the exact same (mobo and ram slightly different) system at ibuypower.com and it was $1,502. The mistake most people make on those sites is they assume the MOBO, psu, gpu and RAM will be of the same quality as what you picked from newegg/tigerdirect. They are not.
September 23, 2008 3:13:18 PM

SAMSUNG Black 22X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 22X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 22X DVD Burner - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

GIGABYTE GA-EP43-DS3L LGA 775 Intel P43 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

mushkin 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Intel Core 2 Duo E7200 Wolfdale 2.53GHz 3MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 64-bit English for System Builders 1pk DSP OEI DVD - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

ASUS EAH4850/HTDI/512M Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Antec Three Hundred Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

CORSAIR CMPSU-450VX 450W ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

This comes to $802 + $65 in rebates for a total of $737. If you could squeeze it into the budget, an E8400 would be a better option. I also picked this particular power supply because it is a Corsair and just barely fit into the upper end of your budget. The 550W Corsair and 610W PC Power & Cooling PSU's would be better choices, but put it over $800 before rebates.

The main reason to build your own computer is that you know exactly what components are in it. OEM's cut corners on hardware especially on the power supplies. I guess if you don't feel comfortable building your own, then don't. I've been building computers for a few years now and will never buy a pre-built again. Sites like ibuypower would be better than big OEM's, but IMO building your own is the only way to go!

Your AMD build posted above is not a bad build, but at the moment Intel offers faster processors. Intel processors work fine with ATI/AMD GPU's.
September 23, 2008 3:25:45 PM

Thx for all your feedback... funny I was just building almost the exact same thing you have put down shortstuff :) 

I figured saving the 70$ or whatever downgrading to the e7300 was good.... Do ya'll think 8400 over the 7300 would be a big jump up?

What about the antec power/case combo with the 300?

If I go intel/ati should I even worry about crossfire? It seemed difficult to find crossfire supported intel boards.

EDIT: sorry the 7200

September 23, 2008 3:46:56 PM

I wouldn't call the jump from the E7200 to E8400 "big", but it would be a jump for sure. It seems like games love as much CPU cache as you can throw at them.

The Antec power/case combo is not a bad combo, but the Antec PSU's seem to get mixed reviews. Some people swear by them, but I personally would step up to a Corsair, PC Power & Cooling, etc...

I guess I didn't even know you were wanting to go crossfire. It's not hard to find Intel chipset boards that support crossfire. Look at the P45/X48 chipsets. Both support crossfire, but the P45 chipset will run at x8/x8 speed instead of full x16/x16 speed. The GA-EP45-DS3R board is a great value. The GA-X48-DS4 board looks amazing, but the price seems a little high for an $800 budget. :) 
September 23, 2008 3:48:17 PM

I would go with the E8400 can overclock to 4.0 ghz easy and just about all intel motherboards support crossfire.. any P35 or 45 mother board dose and also the P43 but you do not have the pic express lanes i think.
1.you are better building your self because of the upgrade path you will have open.
2. it is fun and get pleasure from doing your self
3. PC dose not come loaded with a lot of programs you do not need or want
4. should be able to choose better quality parts and not cut corners
5. if you buy from some one you are getting as cheap of parts as they can find.. (power supply, motherboard, memory) you can buy for better price and have good performace but it you are smart you will buy now and save and they upgrade as needed to have what you need. hard to do this with bought ones most of the time.
September 23, 2008 4:45:58 PM

I didnt necessarily want to go crossfire... atleast right away but I figured if/when the 4850 cannot handle some games id slap on another 4850 down the road?

Also what OS should i be getting.... xp premium 64 bit or? This computer will be mainly for gaming and really dont care about the apps that come along or whatever.

I want to make sure this PC will last me awhile.... I usually dont play exhaustive games.. I usually play Blizz brand games and they usually have low reqs. But for now I want to make sure that I can play WAR and good settings.

Either way itll be a huge upgrade for me considering I game on a 1.83 dual core, x1400 mobility, 2gig ram laptop :)  :) 
September 23, 2008 5:03:43 PM

There are a few Vista haters on this site, but I'm currently running 64-bit Vista Ultimate and have not had any problems with it at all. I would recommend Vista Home Premium 64-bit:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

If you want to put a 6-year-old OS on your new rig, I guess that's up to you.
September 23, 2008 5:15:55 PM

I have never really experienced Vista so all I can go off of is hearsay :) 

And what do ya'll think of goin crossfire/sli ready for upgrading later? I am sure it is hard to guess but do you think me prepping for crossfire and upgrading later will increase the longevity of my PC?
September 23, 2008 5:59:31 PM

So right now I have:

LITE-ON Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache IDE 20X DVD±R DVD Burner - OEM

Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM

OCZ Vista Upgrade 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail

ASUS P5Q Pro LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail

Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz 6MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor - Retail

Antec Three Hundred Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail

Antec True Power Trio TP3-650 650W ATX12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply with Three 12V Rails - Retail

ASUS EAH4850/HTDI/512M Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail

Almost $840 with shipping. A Bit pricey or atleast makes me cringe a bit cause I may want to buy a monitor than I just spent 1k :) :) 

If I substituted I would do one of the G31 motherboards that is around $60 cheaper than the MoBo I have listed, Also downgrading the processor to the 7200 would save me $50. I really dont need a huge HD so I could get a 320 for like 60ish I think. So all those together I would say 100-150$ but would i experience a huge drop in performance? Or even longevity of how well my PC will run new games for awhile?

I mean 100-150$ more is not going to kill me but I want to know that 100-150$ will make a difference.

Edit: Would this setup pretty much destroy.... http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/campaigns/campa...
?

That was another thing I was looking at but a couple people told me that system is overpriced.

September 23, 2008 6:35:58 PM

I would go with a SATA DVD burner. Lite-On quality seems a little spotty sometimes. I just got a Samsung SATA burner with LightScribe and it's great. It only cost like $27 too. Anyway, I don't see a reason to put a big IDE cable in a new build.

I wouldn't recommend downgrading to a G31 board, especially if you think you might be interested in overclocking someday. The integrated GPU will only hold you back. You could possibly look at some P35 boards, but I would just stick with the newer P43/P45 chipset. Go with the best hardware you can squeeze into your budget or you'll spend the next year wishing you had!
September 23, 2008 6:41:54 PM

Cool thx shortstuff..... so the only thing you would change from what I previously listed would be the dvd burner?
September 23, 2008 7:08:09 PM

It's a solid build. If it were my personal build there are a couple changes I would make, but that is more personal preference than anything. The OCZ RAM in your list runs a little slower and at higher voltage than the Mushkin I linked above, but it's not a big deal really. I also personally would not buy an Antec PSU, but like I said - that is just a personal preference.

Good job - pull the trigger!
September 23, 2008 7:10:51 PM

I noticed reading through here, someone recommended an open box motherboard above. I personally would not go open box on that, you may only get the board and not the drivers you need, also, you never know if someone got hold of the board and messed it up without any damage being obvious.

For AMD/Intel, AMD is usually better for price, however, intel performs a little better. If you don't intend to overclock and the AMD chips are cheaper, I say go with AMD. If you want to overclock, or just have to have the absolute best performance, then go with intel.

I know recently newegg.com had an AMD crossfire board for 99 bucks,

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Biostar is pretty good stuff, I like it ok as I've used them before, seem reliable.

Of course you could go with the 6000+ x2 chip, or they've got the 5400 black edition which is decent for overclocking for 77, you'd just need a cooler to go with it. But with that board you could get a 4850 or 4870, then add another next year or so, and that board should support the phenom quad core chips as well. Might be another option. Depends what you are aiming for.
September 23, 2008 7:19:35 PM

Yea I mean there is no real preference I have... so if there are valid points to some of the items picked than I want to know. I just tried to pick combo deals and stuff that had good reviews and such.

I think the last thing I need to figure out is ok... do I want to do an Intel build or save a few bucks doing an AMD build. I do not know how complicated OC'ing is... if its pretty tough I probably wont want to mess around with it.

But even with an AMD build how much am I going to be saving? Thats kinda what I have been wondering if I save $100 doing AMD is it worth it? In the long run is the AMD processor I get going to lag behind while the Intel is going strong. Know what I mean?

The most important part for me is getting something in the 700-800 range that will play the majority of all games on either medium or high settings for a couple years. And if not it would be cheap/easy to upgrade.
September 23, 2008 7:52:57 PM

shortstuff_mt said:
It's a solid build. If it were my personal build there are a couple changes I would make, but that is more personal preference than anything. The OCZ RAM in your list runs a little slower and at higher voltage than the Mushkin I linked above, but it's not a big deal really. I also personally would not buy an Antec PSU, but like I said - that is just a personal preference.

Good job - pull the trigger!


Couple newb questions... when ur talkin about the ram do you mean that it will slow down if I try and overclock it or?

Secondly, why do you not like the antex psu out of curiosity?
September 23, 2008 8:46:06 PM

Any RAM with factory voltage over 1.8v is already factory overclocked/overvolted. If you can find RAM that is rated at 1.8v, it should have more overclocking headroom. You should also look for the lowest timings available in your price range since it is usually a good indication of quality RAM.

I don't really have anything against Antec PSU's. I've just been reading some reviews lately where some of the low-mid range Antec's seem to be falling a little behind in the quality/efficiency/sound area. Here's a good read if you have some time:

http://www.anandtech.com/casecoolingpsus/showdoc.aspx?i...

I just think the PSU is possibly the single most important piece of your rig. You should get the best PSU your budget allows or you risk frying your fancy new rig. :) 
September 23, 2008 8:53:50 PM

Gotcha.. thanks again.

Is there a sli/crossfire PSU that you would recommend around the same price? Or would you not recommend one unless it was like 100-150 with a lot of wattage?
September 23, 2008 9:23:04 PM

My personal favorite bang-for-buck PSU is the Corsair 750TX:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

This is really way more than you need, but will last you through all the upgrades your heart desires in the future :) . If you can't quite swing that, take a look at this PC Power & Cooling 610W:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

If that's still pushing your limit, try the Corsair 550VX:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I personally have the modular Corsair 520HX and love it. I can't even hear it and the modular cables are great! Modular PSU's are a little more expensive though.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

You will probably want to shop around for these PSU's. Newegg's prices on PSU's and cases are usually kind of high. Check out zipzoomfly.com - they are usually pretty competitive and offer free shipping a lot of times.
September 23, 2008 9:34:22 PM

o0o0o the power pc one looks nice with an additional 20% off

edit: Ok took your advice on the RAM and dvd burner and everything else from what I previously had is probably going to stay the same.

Seems like people really like that Antec PSU on newegg so I think I am going to give it a shot.

Either going to bite the bullet tonight or tom :p  Locked myself out of my newegg acct lol!! Plus it is so hard to press the submit button :)  :) 

Another edit: LoL do you like this PSU better than the one included in the combo?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
September 23, 2008 9:57:09 PM

Great! This is going to be a great build. Good luck. If you run into any problems putting it together, etc., you know where to come. The stickies and forums are full of useful info if you can wade through all the flame wars and trolls :lol: .
September 23, 2008 10:00:01 PM

Your final choices look pretty solid. If you do go AMD, yes, you can save roughly $100 without gimping your machine by anything noticeable (that only holds true before you overclock the CPU).
September 23, 2008 10:06:31 PM

I'm sure either PSU will work fine. The one you just linked above has a little more amperage on on the 12v rails, but the one included with the case has a longer warranty. Nothing like making a hard decision harder. :pt1cable: 
September 24, 2008 12:09:20 AM

The only thing I have to decide is save a little money and go AMD or go Intel.... Without being to biased (lol im sure this is the huge debate) will the AMD processor show the price difference? Or will it be pretty darn close to performance wise. I usually always try to go with the "you get what you paid for".

How difficult is it to OC the processor?
September 24, 2008 12:18:21 AM

Ok so I switched to the 6000+ and..

GIGABYTE GA-MA78GM-S2H AM2+/AM2 AMD 780G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail

Switching those out the AMD package with everything else being the same will be $747

The Intel that I have ATM is priced at $860.

With that in mind which would you rather go with?

Sorry I keep beating this issue to death but with that money you want to make sure :) 
September 24, 2008 12:25:58 AM

It's very easy and the Asus board will have some OC pre-sets so all you will have to do is select "turbo" in bios, or whatever Asus calls it. That's why having DDR2 800 @ 1.8v is useful. The RAM speed is usually linked to the FSB to maintain a specific ratio so if it is already OC'd it can cause some issues.

nevermind, I didn't see your change until this went up. I know nothing about OC'ing AMD.
September 24, 2008 12:31:51 AM

I am just staring at $900 checkout.... its just hard to press submit :o  lol

I know what I have put together from all your guys advice (especially short) should be a sweet machine for a long time (I hope)

Edit: Final build unless someone else has other thoughts.

SAMSUNG Black 22X DVD+R 22X DVD-R 16X DVD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 22X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe - OEM

Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM

Antec Three Hundred Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail

Acer X193W+BD Black 19" 5ms Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 2000:1 (ACM) - Retail

PC Power & Cooling S61EPS 610W Continuous @ 40°C EPS12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply - Retail

mushkin 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail

Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 64-bit English for System Builders 1pk DSP OEI DVD - OEM

ASUS EAH4850/HTDI/512M Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail

ASUS P5Q Pro LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail

Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz 6MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor - Retail

I am tired lol
September 24, 2008 12:53:01 AM

Hopefully last question :) 

What misc stuff do I need to buy IE static wrist gaurd, thermal compund, any fans/cooling/heatsink? If I do not plan on OC'ing do I really need to buy/upgrade the heatsink and get more cooling?
September 24, 2008 3:57:32 AM

If you're going Intel, to get the most out of your money is to overlock the system with a nice cooler like the Xigamtek 120mm Rifle CPU cooler. I know how difficult it is to spend that extra 40 dollars, but trust me it's worth it. If you're not going to overclock, just stick with AMD would be my suggestion.

Static wrist guards are nice to have as something for the peace of mind (I never used one, but I made sure I was properly "grounded").

You won't really need thermal compound as they're usually provided on the heatsinks for both aftermarket and stock ones, unless you're extremely picky about it.

If you don't plan on OC, usually stock heatsinks are fine.
Your build looks perfectly good, both AMD or Intel.

Feel free to ask more questions, just make sure you're happy with what you buy. That's really all that matters.
September 24, 2008 1:37:16 PM

Is the thermal compound like glue or just a grease substance? I ask because if I just stick with the stock heatsink and if I decide to overlock then upgrade the heat sink can I?

Purchased all the parts last night.. final talley was 1,072 (then take off $90 for MIR)

Little over my budget but I think every piece I purchased I will not regret.

Thanks again for all ya'lls help
September 24, 2008 2:48:21 PM

What did your final build look like? I know it's hard pressing the submit button when you're looking at a $1000+ shopping cart, but I'm sure you won't regret it. You've done the right thing by doing your homework and really thinking about every component.

Just take your time and read the manual before you put it all together. Pay special attention to all the power connectors. One of the easiest things to forget is the 4/8 pin CPU power connector. It is in addition to the 24 pin motherboard connector. It seems like a lot of the "my new build won't post" threads are because of this. Another common mistake is not plugging in the power connector to the graphics card. You can get a wrist strap if you would like, but I've never used one and have yet to fry any components. Just be sure to touch a metal part of the case before handling any of your new components (including taking them out of their original packaging). If you take your time and read the manual, the feeling of seeing your new creation come to life is amazing!

Most thermal paste is not adhesive. You should be fine to use the stock heatsink for a while and then upgrade later. The stock Intel heatsink has thermal paste already applied. Just make sure to pay special attention to the instructions for installing the push pins. The best thing to do is install the CPU and heatsink while it is outside the case so you can make sure all the pins are fully seated. I like to use the foam that comes in the motherboard box underneath the motherboard for a little cushion when installing components on the motherboard.

When you feel a little more comfortable with your new-found computer skills, you will probably want to overclock your CPU. The new Intel CPU's are so easy to overclock it's hard not to! When you're ready for that step, I would recommend something like this:

XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

XIGMATEK ACK-I7751 Retention Bracket - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

The retention bracket allows the heatsink to be screwed down tight so you don't have to worry about the pushpins working loose.
September 24, 2008 7:47:38 PM

My final build is a couple posts above in an edit I did.

Last thing I changed was the PSU to the pc power cooling one that you listed out. It started out pricey but had a 20% promo code and a mail in rebate so it would have been very similarly priced to the antec PSU in that combo you really did not like.

Its funny because I keep forgetting about MISC things I will need like keyboard, speakers, surge protector.

I did get the anti static wrist gaurd.. was like $3 so I figured why not.

I think for the price I got the best components I could get for what I want.

It will be crazy to try and sort out all the boxes lol.. I just hope they dont come when I am not here... although they should just drop it in the leasing office if they do. I was amazed that my shipping costs only came out to about $20 and no tax.

I just need to make sure I dont get to excited and try to quicken the building process when I am doing it. I will def be taking my time.

I did watch a couple vids on youtube from howstuffworks on how to build one. Is there any other free video tutorials you think would be helpful?
September 24, 2008 9:14:51 PM

That's a nice looking rig!

You'll be fine putting it all together. It's certainly not rocket science. :)  If you can read a manual and have a little common sense, building a computer is a no-brainer. Most of the parts will only fit one way anyway.

The time you spent on here making sure you picked the best possible components before buying says a lot about you. If only everyone posting for assistance with new build's had your mental capacity! :lol: 
September 24, 2008 9:24:03 PM

Thanks for all your help shortstuff (and everyone else)

I will def have to post back in a couple days when I get all my stuff :) 

But for now I think you answered all my questions.
September 24, 2008 9:46:52 PM

It won't be bad. The hardest thing will probably be mounting the cpu cooler. But if you use common sense, you should get through that no problem. Most everything else should be plug and play, install windows and all drivers and your good.

Might I recommend an antivirus program? Free mind you.

AVG antivirus

it's at free.grisoft.com

Also, a free office program can be found at openoffice.org

it's called Open Office. The newest version which is 3.0 is due out any day. But I use it over Microsoft Office even.
September 24, 2008 9:54:15 PM

Yea I actually have AVG on my laptop atm
September 27, 2008 2:50:30 AM

Well got all my parts today but te PSU does not fit into my case!!!!!! GRRR ANGRY :) 

PSU is http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Case is http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

EDIT: Ok so I figured out how to fit the PSU it was no problem after i made sure to it inbetween the metal brackets sticking in. So I have everything hooked up (or so I think) but the motherboard and PSU manuals are crap.

So right now I am just stuck at it asking me to reboot or put in OS media disk or something like that. I am really not sure if I connected the dvd rom (even tho it ejects) properly and the hard disk properly. I tried to find what I have to plug into what but like I said the manuals are not that helpful.
September 27, 2008 6:02:39 AM

On that, just check and make sure you have the power and data connection plugged into the cd rom, if so and all looks connected, put in your vista disc. When your computer first starts up, there should be a key you can hit to make it give you a boot menu. Hit that, and then tell it to boot to cd rom, then it'll probably say something like "press any key to boot from cd rom" of course do that, and it should lead you through the os installation process if you are where I think you are.
September 27, 2008 9:56:10 AM

You might want to check your BIOS. Since you don't have a system disk yet, change your first boot device in BIOS to your dvd-drive (then save and exit) and insert your OS installation disk. Once it passes the boot-up screen, hit enter and you should be on your way to install Vista or XP.
September 27, 2008 12:19:26 PM

Yea I can tell you the hook ups for what I have for the CDrom and hard drive...

for the hard drive the only thing I have is one of those SATA plugs and into the motherboard

for the cd rom the plug looked like an oversized SATA plug... so that is the only plug I have going into the cd rom also

EDIT: to be more specific.. dont know if it help... I have no power cable going into the harddrive just the SATA cable into the mobo.

And the dvdrom I just have one of those oversized lookin sata cables from the PSU going into it.

I def have a feeling more cables should be plugged in :)  But I am a newb so
September 27, 2008 3:40:10 PM

First off, you didn't connect power to your HDD.
Second, you didn't connect an SATA to your DVD-drive.

Are you starting to see the connection there? The "oversized SATA plug" is the power for all the SATA devices. There's a power connector beside the SATA on the HDD, so try connecting that. You also want to plug the SATA cable (not the power cable) to the motherboard from your DVD-drive.

Pretty much if there's "slots" open on your internal devices, other than motherboard auxilliary PINS and what not, chances are something needs to go in them.
September 27, 2008 3:53:28 PM

The sata plug, there should be 2 connections coming off the hard drive. One should go to the motherboard, the other 2 the power supply. If you don't have a plug that fits into the hard drive from your power supply you will need an adapter. Which should be cheap.
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