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Liquid Cooling System TOO HOT

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January 10, 2010 12:25:52 PM

I have a Thermaltake Armor+LCS case that had a BigWater 780e installed in it. I have the system set up and my CPU idles at 60 degrees C. Does anyone know how to make it colder or what I did wrong?
a b K Overclocking
January 10, 2010 1:40:31 PM

Yeah, the BigWater was a cr@p system to begin with.

A few things to check:
1. Coolant flow
2. Kinked tubing
3. Air bubbles
4. CPU block mounting

List your full specs (esp. the CPU). The BigWater is no better than current cooler like the Core Contact Freezer
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January 10, 2010 9:12:00 PM

My System Specs:
-----------------------
Thermaltake Armor+LCS, black
Intel DX58SO
Intel Core i7-920
Sapphire Radeon HD 4850 X2
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1 TB (2 Drives, 2 TB Total)
Plextor PX-B320SA
Plextor PX-880SA
Antec Earthwatts 500W PSU
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
Thermaltake BigWater 780e (preinstalled in case by Thermaltake)
Thermaltake Smart Case Fan Blue LED 120mm (Top of case, installed by me)
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January 10, 2010 9:59:42 PM

get another cooling system dude, if its ur cpu alone cooling, why not get a corshair h50, make sure the radiator of the unit has not been clogged with dust, see if you can get a flow indicator in that loop, make sure there is alot of space around the unit for air to move freely
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January 10, 2010 11:02:27 PM

Yeah the bigwater is not exactly up th i7 heat. The Corsair h50 would be your best bet if you wanted a no maintenence cheapo watercooling unit. Thermaltake has a terrible reputation when it comes to watercooling. I would get it out immediately before it breaks something. A custom loop would do you best, but that is a bit of work.
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February 4, 2010 12:04:41 AM

My CPU idles around 45 actually... That stupid Intel Desktop Control Center misled me.
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a b K Overclocking
February 4, 2010 1:08:40 AM

Cheapo watercooling is not always the best way to go, i would suggest getting a cheap air cooler like the Core contact freezer. It will cool better.
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February 4, 2010 1:09:48 AM

I need to stick with liquid cooling... I don't want to waste the LCS money, since I just bought a new radiator, which cost me $75.
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February 4, 2010 1:36:32 AM

Quote:
Hyper 212+


What?
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a b K Overclocking
February 4, 2010 1:38:36 AM

He is saying you should buy the hyper 212+ its a nice cooler.

I would just return the rad as it isnt that old and buy a different cooler.
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February 4, 2010 1:39:57 AM

No, I am not using air coolers.
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a b K Overclocking
February 4, 2010 1:44:52 AM

^ why not, they are much better than your current water cooler.
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a b K Overclocking
February 4, 2010 1:46:46 AM

Quote:
Then prepare for your temps to be shitty



Yeah, coasterman, i 100% agree with psycho.

It is either spend little money on an air cooler to get good temps or lots of money on a full water loop.

Small water just isnt that good. Especially if your going the route of the bigwater.
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February 4, 2010 1:51:29 AM

It doesnt make sense that if you just have a bigwater then no matter how many rads you install temps will be bad. I already said that I go a new rad. Do I need to get another?

Well, my temps are about 46C right now.

I never get it to top about 70C when running Prime95.
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February 4, 2010 1:52:19 AM

BTW, what's wrong about that unit?

Radiator?

I can just replace its fan.
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February 4, 2010 2:02:20 AM

What's bad about that?

The airflow can go in the front into the LCS unit, out the openings, and into the top exhaust fan.
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a b K Overclocking
February 4, 2010 3:42:31 AM

The bigwater is not a good cooler because...

1. It is restrictive to air.

2. It has a pretty damn bad pump.

3. It has a crappy ALUMINUM rad.

4. It has a crappy block with not much mass.

5. It has a 120mm rad (360mm is recomended for an i7)

6. The mesh in front restricts airflow.

For a better explanation, ask shadow, hes the WCing expert.
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Best solution

a c 86 K Overclocking
February 4, 2010 4:30:30 AM

Coasterman. Deal with what you bought. It don't let the smoke out, your overclock is okay, your temps are okay. Replace it as you can.

You bought at the start something we know in the WC world as a piece of %^&% and when you can replace it, do so.

What some are saying is trash the full WC loop (except the new rad you bought) and get a quality air cooled HS till you can afford a real WC loop.

BTW, in 6 months your pretty new rad will probably be funked up due to the aluminum in the original TT WC loop. maybe before a pump gives up or the top of the CPU block decides to crack.

Your problem, part of the hobby. Thank goodness I spent THREE months learning before I bought ONE WC part.

You didn't, best of luck.
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a b K Overclocking
February 4, 2010 5:03:00 AM

Thanks conundrum, im glad you posted here, mebe the op will believe you...
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a b K Overclocking
February 4, 2010 5:12:28 PM

coasterman said:
No, I am not using air coolers.


Well you should be unless you are willing to spend 80$ on the H50 or 300$+ on a decent loop.

Unfortunately the Bigwater is a crap WC'er, my Air cooler obliterates any thermaltake solution for a fraction of the cost, and no need for any maintanance other than dusting it off every other 3 months or so....

Get a 212+ (just like many here have suggested) for 30$ and watch your temps decrease by more than 35/40% ;) 


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February 5, 2010 12:33:40 AM

I don't mind spending $300 if i have to. I am just using the BigWater because it came in the case.

It has a flow meter in the front, and it spins fast.

Also, the pump rpm is about 2400 rpm according to its rpm reporting.

Speaking of the crappy rad, Ill see what I can do to replace the rad. Ill keep the fan, but get a Swiftech rad to replace it.

As for the WB, what is the best one?

Ill have to gut the entire WC unit and rebuild it, or see how i am going to replace the rad.
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a b K Overclocking
February 5, 2010 12:37:51 AM

If you are willing to spend 300$+ you can ask Conumdrum for any suggestions^^
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February 5, 2010 12:40:31 AM

you don't listen very well, do ya?
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a b K Overclocking
February 5, 2010 12:44:54 AM

coasterman said:
I don't mind spending $300 if i have to. I am just using the BigWater because it came in the case.

It has a flow meter in the front, and it spins fast.

Also, the pump rpm is about 2400 rpm according to its rpm reporting.

Speaking of the crappy rad, Ill see what I can do to replace the rad. Ill keep the fan, but get a Swiftech rad to replace it.

As for the WB, what is the best one?

Ill have to gut the entire WC unit and rebuild it, or see how i am going to replace the rad.


I would ask conundrum for specific parts for your new build, but i would just use your current loop as a MOSFETT/NB cooler. Not worth using the same components in a new build. Like we have been saying, the build quality of the unit isnt very good and might not survive very long.
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a c 86 K Overclocking
February 5, 2010 12:57:11 AM

I'm Conumdrum. I wrote the sticky at the top. It's full of helpful links to guides, other forums, testing sites, and stores. In a week or so you should have a pretty good idea whats good.

I'm not going to spoonfeed anyone who wants to put water in their PC. Too many bad things happen.
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a c 86 K Overclocking
February 5, 2010 1:40:06 AM

Low 40 idle? Wow. I load my i7 965 at 50C.
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a b K Overclocking
February 5, 2010 5:40:56 PM

^ :lol: 

Anyways, tavernarijared are you talking to OP or Conumdrum?
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February 6, 2010 12:35:26 AM

OK. This thread is done. Instead, look at my Best WC setup thread.

If a moderator comes by, please close/delete the thread. Thank you!
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February 6, 2010 12:38:06 AM

Conumdrum said:
Coasterman. Deal with what you bought. It don't let the smoke out, your overclock is okay, your temps are okay. Replace it as you can.

You bought at the start something we know in the WC world as a piece of %^&% and when you can replace it, do so.

What some are saying is trash the full WC loop (except the new rad you bought) and get a quality air cooled HS till you can afford a real WC loop.

BTW, in 6 months your pretty new rad will probably be funked up due to the aluminum in the original TT WC loop. maybe before a pump gives up or the top of the CPU block decides to crack.

Your problem, part of the hobby. Thank goodness I spent THREE months learning before I bought ONE WC part.

You didn't, best of luck.


Okay, but I ended up with the crappy WC system because it came in the case.
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February 6, 2010 12:38:42 AM

Best answer selected by coasterman.
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