OC E6430 on p965T-A

[Johnny Joaozinhe]

Hi guys,

I've been trying to OC my core 2 duo E6420 for some time now on my MB p965t-a with no success... as it seems this MB rly sucks for overclocking, the max FSB I can attempt to is 333, when stock is 266, and if I try my system will go bananas. Sometimes it boots but Vista wont load and weird stuff like that.
Any1 out there had the same problems with this MB and worked around it?
Btw I have 3x 1Gb DDR2 667 RAM.

Thanks!

 

[outlw6669]

Yeah, ECS motherboards do suck for overclocking.

Make sure to set your RAM at a 1:1 ratio to the FSB (lowest speed available) and give the CPU Voltage a boost.
The p965 was a pretty capable overclocker in it's day.
As long as ECS has not totaly gimped it you should have no issues getting your CPU to 2.8GHz...

Also, if you have not already done so, make sure to read the Core 2 Overclocking Sticky.

 

[Johnny Joaozinhe]

That's what confuses me. MY ram is DDR2 667 which means the max FSB it can take is 333 Mhz correct? Does 1:1 ration means I should set it to 667 mhz? What about the timings? Are they 3-3-3-9?
Voltage range increase for the cpu is in increments of .05V (.05 to .20 max). Should I just max it out first try?

Thanks!

 

[outlw6669]

Yes, your RAM is DDR (Double Data Rate) which means it effectively runs at twice the set speed.
When you have it set to run at 333Mhz, it will be running at an effective 667Mhz.
Check one of your DIMMs for the timings, there should be a sticker that lists them along with the proper voltage.

Run Coretemp and take a look at where it shows the VID.
This should be the base value set in your BIOS.
I would recommend starting at 1.35v or a little higher.

Use prime95 to test for stability and, if it passes, test it at lower voltages.
Once you start getting errors, raise it a setting or two in the BIOS and call it good.
Also make sure to keep an eye on your temps.
If you get much over 70°C load, lower your overclock or the voltage.

 

[Johnny Joaozinhe]

So here's the situation:
My max CPU voltage allowed is +.15V rather than +.20, my bad. Coretemp shows VID either at 1.1875 or at 1.35 (which one is the true one?). It sits at 1.1875 most of the time but changes to 1.35 for a second like every 10 secs or so.

I looked at my Ram stickers and couldnt find any timings.

I tried with different timings (3339,44412,55515) always at 667 mhz with CPU Voltage at +.15 every time. It would not boot.
I tried with stock CPU voltage with 4-4-4-12 timings at 533 mhz and it booted bios, but wouldn't load windows.
I also tried with stock CPU voltage with 4-4-4-12 timings, now at 667 mhz and it wouldn't boot at all.

I'm confused

Any thoughts?

 

[outlw6669]

Both voltage readings are correct.
The higher is the VID when in normal operation, the lower when in power saving mode.
When the system is not under a load, your CPU lowers it's voltage and underclocks it self to save a bit of power.
The 1.35v VID is what is important to us.

Unfortunately, it looks like your are SOL for overclocking on your motherboard
If it will not boot with 1.5v to the CPU and with the CL5 timings you are kinda out of options to try.

 

[Johnny Joaozinhe]

That sucks. What makes me kinda mad is the fact I bought this system off a guy who said he had it OC but reset it back to stock to sell it. I'd try to contact him, but I lost his contact a while ago.

Oh well... Can any1 recommend me a good OCing board that will run my CPU on the cheaper side?

 

[outlw6669]

I would say the ASUS P5Q SE or Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3L would work good for you.
They will both take your existing RAM and CPU and, at $80-86 after MIR, are fairly priced.

TBH though, you would probably be better off saving you cash for an AM3 or LGA1156 upgrade.
LGA775 is going extinct pretty darn quick.

 

[Johnny Joaozinhe]

Thanks for all your advice outlw6669, just one more thing. What AM3 or LGA1156 would you recommend? I'd like to get another HD5770 for Crossfire along the way, so 2 PCIe lanes would be cool.

I would love something like this but crossfire instead of sli.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=am3&x=0&y=0

Do you think a BSEL mod would do the trick with my CPU/MB though? I've been trying to find info on this online but havent had much luck.

Thank you!

 

[outlw6669]

No, I do not believe a BSEL mod will help you.
All it will do is to tell your motherboard to run at 333Mhz FSB when set to auto.
It will give you the exact same result as when you manually set a 333Mhz FSB.

What kind of budget would you be looking at for a new platform?
Any preference between Intel and AMD?

 

[Johnny Joaozinhe]

You sure it wouldnt work? after all everything works fine when on auto, but idk...

Not too worried about budget, I can always save up and get it later, but I would like to get the X3 720 OEM (I already have an aftermarket HSF) and a good MB for Crossfire and OC'ing, and im not certain if I should get a DDR2 or a DDR3 MB... I don't want to spend tons of cash though... It'd be nice to be around 200-250 (without buying ram) or 100 more if I get the DDR3 ram.

What would you do?

 

[outlw6669]

If you are going to be upgrading anyways, might as well give it a try.
I hear it is pretty easy to do and, if done properly, 100% reversible.
It may work but I doubt it...

As for the new parts, easy order

ASUS M4A79XTD EVO: $110 after $10 MIR
4GB OCZ DDR3 1600: $75 after $20 MIR
Phenom II x3 720 BE: $105
Sunbeam Core Contact Freezer: $25 after $15 MIR

Total: $315 after MIR's

 

[Johnny Joaozinhe]

Thanks for the suggestions . I don't think I'll be needing the HSF though, like I said I already have one

I've been thinking and maybe I should get the X2 550 instead as it is cheaper at $90 retail, I'll have the warranty, and I read a review in which a guy said he was able to unlock the other 2 cores with the MB you mentioned. Think it's a good idea?

 

[outlw6669]

Whoops, missed that part

I would stick with the x3.
$15 is not to steep a price jump and you are guaranteed an extra working core.
Unlocking the extra cores is far from a certain thing and different for each chip.
Even if you can get them to unlock, they where disabled for a reason and it is doubtful the system will be 100% stable (especially if you plan to overclock).
Give the x3 a nice healthy overclock and I doubt you will be unhappy with the performance

 

[Johnny Joaozinhe]

Ok, I got the parts you recommended and they got here today. I've never really assembled a computer before (apart from installing video cards and such).
Is there anything I should know/do before I swap the MB,Ram and CPU? Will the OS recognize the video card, wireless card and everything fine because I'll be using the same HDD and everything's already installed or do I have to reconfigure anything?

Thanks!

 

[outlw6669]

You should back up all your important data before starting as you will need to reinstall Windows after the upgrade.

Changing the parts out is really not to difficult.
Just make sure to ground your self before digging around in the case!

There is really only one way most parts can fit.
Remember, if it does not want to go in, do not force it!
Take a good look at both the part and the slot/socket, something is probably misaligned.

Also, make sure to double check all your power and data and case cables are plugged in before calling it finished.
Nothing like thinking the build is done then having an O-Sh!t moment when it doesn't load up (not like anyone here has ever done that ).

Another thing you might like to do is to gather all the latest drivers onto a flash stick before starting.
Then you will have everything ready to go as soon as Windows is done installing.

I you run into any issues, just drop a post.
Really nothing to complex, it should go just fine for you [:jaydeejohn:5]

 

[Johnny Joaozinhe]

I have two drives, one for OS mostly, and another with all the other stuff, I only need to backup the OS one right?

 

[outlw6669]

Yes, but just what you want to save off it, no need to keep all the old OS files.
As you have another drive to store all your data on, you would be best formatting the OS drive when you reinstall windows.

 

[Johnny Joaozinhe]

Ok, just to make sure, my proceeding order will be 1st replace hardware, 2nd boot up and format/install windows, 3rd install drivers (including MB drivers from CD). Correct?

Oh and do I need to get an anti-static wrist strap or can I make due without one?

 

[outlw6669]

Yes, that is all in the correct order.
I would recommend gathering updated drivers beforehand (on a flash stick or the second drive) and using those instead of what is on the CD.

I have never used an anti-static wrist band and have had no issues.
Just be sure to ground your self before working inside the system (touch the bare metal of the case while everything is still plugged in) and to avoid carpet or linoleum flooring while working.
The anti-static bags you received with your new parts can be used to protect all your components while out of the case.