Please review my first build. Thank you.

anniecat

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Jan 14, 2009
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I'm about to pull the trigger on some parts for my first build and I wanted to ask kindly if others would comment?

I am replacing a Dell E6600 2.4 ghz system and I want to improve performance at least 200%. So my goal is an Intel E8500 running at 4.2 GHZ

My main apps are Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop so quad core is not important. I have not plans for games or 3d apps or video rendering.

I don't care if the case is ugly, has lights, see thru panels, etc. I just want basic as it's just going to sit under a desk hidden from view.

I was going to use my exsisting Nvidia 7900 GS and 2 500 gig SATA drives so I wasn't planning on spending any cash there.

Are the following parts suitable and compatible?
I have 4 Gig of some existing 800mhz RAM, could I use that instead of buying new?

Here's the pieces I was going to purchase from Newegg. The total is about $450.
GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail $116
Rosewill R5717 BK 120mm Fan, mesh air filters & Tool-Free kits ATX Mid Tower Computer Case,with 450W Power Supply - Retail $40
ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler - Retail $29
Intel Core 2 Duo E8500 Wolfdale 3.16GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80570E8500 - Retail $188
CORSAIR DOMINATOR 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit TWIN2X4096-8500C5D $44
 

mi1ez

Splendid
+1

Always go for a good PSU.

A case with good cooling will vastly improve your CPU temperatures. A good CPU cooler is worthless unless the case can provide it with fresh cool air and get rid of the hot air.

300 is a good recommendation, I used one for a friend's build.
 

fullmetall

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Not a bad setup, only thing i would change is the PSU to a 600w Corsair.
and the cpu cooler looks alright, i recommend Xigmatek but its $10 dollars more.

and if you wanted, since i've never seen corsair in action on ram, i got the OCZ Reapers EPC/ECC DDR2 1066, no problems at all.

+1 on the Antec 300 case w/o psu.
 

pr2thej

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Antec 300 with an extra fan installed in the front for about another $5 is a great investment.
You dont really need to get 1066MHz RAM over your existing 800MHz sticks, so put that $44 into your PSU / Case budget.
 

anniecat

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Okay, I switched to a Antec 300 case and a Corsair PSU.

simple question...Do CPU coolers come with thermal compound or do I need to purchase a tube?
 
The ACF7P will get you to maybe 3.5 GHz. If you expect to get above 4 GHz, the ACF7P will not work. You will need something like the Xig HDT S-1283 or better. If you get the Xig, buy the accessory back plate. Otherwise, you are stuck with the Intel style pushpins.

The Xig is a great deal for the price.
 

fullmetall

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Correct jsc +1

i have the Zigmatek s-1283 on my E8500 anniecat, i oc'd to 4.3ghz with it and stress tested it for 2 hrs. didnt get over 56c.

its a must on the back plate because i was stupid enough to use the rubber mounting push pins. If you are ever transfering your computer back and forth after taking the time and aggrivation on putting the push pins on, they will vibrate themselfs out of place causing heat problems. Get the plate.
 
^ I think for certain filters,etc it uses Quads to the max. AFAIK CS4 is built for Quads.

A note about PSU: The wattage dosen't matter much. It's the build quality, amps,etc that matters. For quality PSUs look at PC Power & Cooling, Corsair, Antec, and OCZ.
 
Ok ok...I'm not picking on anyone in particular, but I'm tired of reading "wattage doesn't matter, amps matter..." about PSUs.
=====>>> Wattage = Voltage * Amps <<<======
What matters is WHERE (e.g. which rails) the watts (or amps) are being supplied.
Modern PCs, particularly the GPU-heavy gamer builds often described around here, require a lot of juice on their +12V rail(s).
An Antec Earthwatts 430 can put 360 of those watts, or 30 amps, on its +12V rails. It will power a rig with a 4850 GPU, even though the manufacturer recommends a 450W PSU. By contrast, a Raidmax RX-450 only has 21A on its +12V rail, and an @-Power 550W PSU still only manages to put 24A on its +12 rail. On the other side, even an Antec Earthwatts 380 puts 27A on its +12V rails, and would probably also work.
So, "TOTAL wattage doesn't matter, wattage (=amps*12) on the +12V rail(s) DOES matter."
Disclaimer: Raidmax and @-Power are two cheap-a$$ brands that MIGHT be able to output 60% of their claimed label ratings before blowing up, and should never be used to power computers.