88-91 Honda Civic Heater Core

[horatio b]

I was looking around on the "world wide interwebs" and came across something interesting. It would appear that the heater core from the the 88-91 honda civic is all copper. I will be headed to the [strike]junkyard[/strike] salvage yard to see if I could possibly find one. What I am asking is. Should this heater core made outta all copper(that's what it looks like) provide significantly lower CPU and GPU temps than a high quality specifically designed PC water cooling radiator? Also the dimensions seem really suitable for a PC case as well. So everyone please tell me your thoughts. Also If my GPU block is all copper and my CPU block is all copper should this all copper heater core allow for the use of only water in my loop. Maybe a little bleach for algae but I shouldn't have to worry about corrosion or rust do I? Now please give me all your opinions...

Once again. I have not confirmed that it is indeed all copper. That what it looks like on my search results.... Thank you

 

[hella-d]

It Should Work, And I Belive They Make Copper-Safe Addatives, Car Antifreeze Could Work, You May Hafta Do Some Scrounging

 

[horatio b]

I know it'd work but do you think it would work better than a traditional radiator made for PC water cooling?

 

[mrmotion]

If you can get it relatively cheap then yes why not. If you know anyone who has a PC specific radiator put them side by side. But given the job that it does it should be fine. One thing you will want to look at is the spacing of the cooling fins, number of loops of the copper pipe and overall size to do your comparison. Dont forget ID of the copper, you might be able to put more flow through it, keeping it cooler.

 

[ram1009]

Copper is a better conductor than aluminum but, in this application, insignificantly so, IMHO. I doubt you'd see even a degree of lower temp assuming equal core density. Also, the hose sizes are probably much too large for a computer. Personally, I would buy a well designed and highly rated pre-made system. Besdes, I doubt you'll save any money by having to buy individual components rather than a system.

 

[Shadow703793]

Assuming you are using high flow/high CFM fans, the heater core will be an excellent choice.
See here: http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Bonnie-Heatercore-Review.html

 

[ouch1]

Copper is a better conductor than aluminum but, in this application, insignificantly so, IMHO. I doubt you'd see even a degree of lower temp assuming equal core density. Also, the hose sizes are probably much too large for a computer. Personally, I would buy a well designed and highly rated pre-made system. Besdes, I doubt you'll save any money by having to buy individual components rather than a system.

Ram,

I am not meaning to flame you, but please do some research before giving out bad info like you did. The reason is that Copper and Aluminum in the same loop is a recipe for failure. Having copper and aluminum in the same loop will cause galvanic corrosion (aka. electrolysis. look it up on wikipedia) fairly quickly (sometimes as quickly as within a few days to weeks) which over time can and will cause poor cooling & possibly leaks in the cooling system. Just look around and you will be able to quickly find what kind of damage you will get mixing the two metals (here is an example of:nasty looking galvanic corrosion).

Also the problem with most premade kits is that they are usually mixed metal kits (copper and aluminum for the vast majority), and for the most part use sub-standard parts. Whether that be restrictive radiators, small diameter tubing, weak pumps, reservoirs that crack easily, or very restrictive radiators.

The best "premade kits" will cost at least $200US, and usually come from companies like Swiftech and DangerDen. These kits are usually made with high quality parts and use copper or brass (there is no risk of galvanic corrosion with copper and brass in the same loop) for the metal components. Along with good pumps, high flow tubing (1/2"ID), and good reserviors.

I would recommend checking out the following sites for good kits that will last a while and work quite well:
DangerDen Standard kits, custom built kits, and components for building a completely custom cooling loop.
Petra's Tech Shop Standard kits, custom built kits, and components for building a completely custom cooling loop.
Petra's also sell the following kit from Swiftech which is a great deal for veryt good performance: Swiftech H20-220-APEX ULTIMA CPU Liquid Cooling Kit w/ Apogee XT &239.95

Another thing to remember is that alot of the first people who build water cooled system used heater cores for rad's and they worked quite well. I bet if the OP looked around there will be links to instructions for modifying the heater core to work well for him.

-ouch1

 

[horatio b]

I have some really really really loud and powerful Server Fans. Sounds like blow dryers. I have about six of them. One alone is overkill. So I'm gonna try and head to the junkyard today and see if I can salvage one. I will let you guys know....

 

[horatio b]

Ok i found it. And it is made of copper and brass. This should be really really awesome. So far I've cleaned it up. I've also got 1 foot of black 5/8" tubing to fit.

(This is where I will really need your opinions and advice.) "I think" I will have to get an adapter to bring the tubing size down from 5/8" to 3/8" because the rest of my loop is 3/8" and keeping part of it 5/8" is not gonna be beneficial. So I should definitely get the adapter right?

I will post pics soon. Thank you...

 

[horatio b]

OK I need a good water pump now. Any recommendations please! I intend to cool i7-920 between 3.2 and 4Ghz and a GTX 280 HC. Maybe the chipset. Also when the Fermi is realeased I'm sure I'll get two of em and water cool them as well. Thank you... and what kind of resevoir. I need some highly customizable parts because I also plan on building them for show as well. Also would it be cheaper to just use an aquarium water pump. Water pumps I do not understand at all. Thank you...

also, is the pump that comes in the thermaltake 760is anygood. I have one. I just don't want it in my loop. Thank you

also what about this pump http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/shurflo-pumps.htm?source=google&mm_campaign=aeebaeb376504db3a75f1d611d0292b3&keyword=PF_{keyword}&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=PF&utm_term=PF_{keyword}

 

[Shadow703793]

@OP: That' pumps flow rate is too low imo. If you'r going to spend $70 on a pump, you may as well get a MCP655. And no, Thermaltake liquid cooling stuff is cr@p.

If your trying to keep costs down, look in to a 350-400GPH "ViaAqua" aquarium pump. I'v used that pump on a similar project and it's worked quite well.

Forget about cooling the GPU and i7 in the same loop. You need 2 loops for best performance. If using a non standard pump, (ie not a MCP655/MCP355) you'll need to mod your own res.

Also, READ the very top post in this section. That will teach you the basics. Until you grasp the basica I won't bother posting here any more.

 

[rofl_my_waffle]

The flow rate on that pump is quite low while pressure is unnecessarily high.

No aquarium pumps can be quite expensive. I got an aquarium pump that cost $200 and will destroy any computer liquid cooling pump. Unfortunately that was actually for my aquarium which has 120 gallons of water. For my computer I use an MCP655, it is more than enough to move what little water is in the loop and with enough preassure to pass CPU, northbride, and GPU waterblocks.

The MCP655 (aka the Laing D5) is probably the most popular pump to use in computers since it offers pretty good flow rate and small enough to fit in any case. Go for that since it is about the same price as the pump you posted.

Multiple loops doesn't really give any performance nor does setting up your loop to serve hotter components first. Pumps like the MCP655 moves water fast enough that it doesn't raise temps that much between components. The size of your rad is probably most important. Unless you need the performance of multiple rads. It just isn't worth dual loop since you have to buy two pumps, two rads, two reservoirs. Two of everything can be quite expensive for little performance gain.

Also don't get the primochill typhoon III if you want your liquid cooling to be quiet. The thing is very loud as water is forced through it, unless you turn down the speed of your MCP655 pump, but then you lose performance. Also the thing is retarded in terms of installation. You can't install it in a case unelss you trip the metal fins off the side of your drive bays. After that the screw holes didn't really line up with anything. It is a really bad product.

 

[horatio b]

Ok cool. I think I have what I need to know now. Thank you guys. Now I just have to justify to my wife why it's important for our business to pay for all this stuff... Any advise on what to tell her? Or is this the wrong type of forum for marital advise? ;-) Gotta be someone on Tom's who has had to [strike]lie[/strike] justify to their wife about expensive [strike]toys[/strike] technology.

 

[horatio b]

Another major problem here! I went to the VW dealer this morning to go get some of their pretty pink/orange radiator fluid. But it looks like it might not be safe on copper and brass radiators which is what my heater core is. Because it contains organic acids that might eat away the the LED(metal, not light emitting diode) soldering. So Does anyone know for sure what I can or cannot do? Thank you....? I might just go get the red fluid from toyota, but this pink/orange one from VW looks awesome and if it works I wont have to change it for a long time. Thank you

 

[Conumdrum]

Just use distilled water and add your own coloring (it's pretty cheap). NEVER use tap water and especially deionized(demineralize) water. It will corroed your water cooling system. Basically demineralize water will take minerals from your water pump, RAD etc.etc.

If you say so. Guess all the folks in the UK who use deionized water for years now are all wrong. Distilled is expensive there.

 

[Conumdrum]

They don't use bottled water. Many bottled waters have minerals added for 'flavor'. They use deionized, they kinda know by now whats right. I'm meaning folks who win overclocking championships, folks who have been watercooling since ohh 1998 or before.

 

[blaze15301]

you can use deionized water. i wouldnt recommend adding color stuff to it i seen a entire set up get messed up from it the tubes get dyed and the particles will carode your blocks and stuff faster go for colored tubing its safer and cheaper