I'm afraid that what you are looking for doesn't exist. Good coolers typically require backplates because they are too heavy or run the risk of bending the motherboard without a backplate.
With that, I suggest a CM Hyper212 Plus. 30$, and it's the last cooler you're probably ever going to need. Don't be afraid to take out the motherboard. When I installed my Hyper 212 Plus, it was my first time. I just took note of which cables went to which sockets, and took care not to lose any screws I removed. It's going to be a fun weekend afternoon project to install a good CPU cooler.
As for case fans, what size do you need? The CM 690 has space for a lot of 120mm fans, although it can fit one 140mm one. You can get Xigmatek, Gelid, CM,... etc. Find fans that are 1500+ RPM. They will be noisier than the fans that come with the 690, but they will give good airflow. Dont' forget to get fan filters for intake fans, too, if the case doesn't have them.
There is a little bit of a problem with the design of a motherboard tray and the location of the cpu socket on a motherboard. First, the motherboard tray has to have a large opening for access to the rear of a motherboard. Some cases do not have any opening. Some trays openings are too small. Some trays have openings that do not align with the mounting holes in a motherboard. In addition the cpu socket on a motherboard is not always in the exact same spot on each motherboard. There are slight variations. You may not have any choice but to remove the motherboard to install a cpu heatsink. Depending on your selection, it may actually be easier to remove the tray.
Here is a link to a very good web site with a lot of useful information about cpu heatsinks that will help you make an informed decision: