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New to WC - Reservoir Question

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March 4, 2010 9:02:03 PM

Hey guys. So I have not posted on Tom's for quite a while now. Since I built my computer about a year and a half ago I'm now ready to OC and Water cool. The OCing I think I can figure out, as there are loads of i7 OC guids out there now. But when it comes to water cooling, I'm having a somehwat rough time figuring out exactly what I need. I have spent a few hours reading guides but I'll admit no more than that. I'm pretty good at putting things together and what not so if I have to mod I'm definitely down to try.

So far the only thing I have really decided is the reservoir. Simply because of the looks. no other res looks like this one. Its the Liquid Fusion one on frozencpu. First of all I had a question about it. Is it even good? It's expensive yes and nice looking yes, which is why its most popular, but how does it really compare?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10279/ex-res-166/Froz...

Now I know it looks like I have not read much but I do not really plan to get this going for a while. I'm going to start slowly buying parts and have this built by june at the latest. (Bday in june so I'll most likely save the most expensive part till then)

Also I read that you should pick your radiator first but I wanted to see what people said about this res. Once I get a few replies here I'll add in the next parts.

Thanks a lot for your time and help guys!!!
PS - If anything I put up here is, not good, or old or something like that. Call me out!!! I don't want to get stuck with a dumpy setup or something that is getting upgraded a month after I get mine running.

More about : reservoir question

March 4, 2010 10:03:08 PM

Ryankn852,

Here is parts list for you:
D-TEK FuZion v2 Intel i7 CPU Water Block - (Socket LGA 1366 / LGA 775**)
Feser XChanger Triple 3X120mm Xtreme Performance Radiator
Swiftech MCP655-B™ 12v Water Pump
120mm Scythe SFF21F S-FLEX Case Fan (63.7 CFM/28 dBA) 3 of these at least
Danger Den G 1/4" High Flow Thread Barb - 1/2" ID 6 of these
PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall - Clear at least 8 feet of this
Stainless Steel Shielded Hose Clamp for 5/8" OD to 3/4" OD Tubing at least 8 pf these or something similar

Then you will need coolant. I recommend getting a gallon of distilled water, and then mixing this in: Feser View Active UV Dye (Blue) 50mL and putting a Silver KillCoil in your Reservior. That will keep you coolant free from bacteria, and algae.

-ouch1
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a c 86 K Overclocking
March 5, 2010 1:14:03 AM

The res has been popular with the top modding crowd. Some have has issues with bleeding it, to the point of just taking it out. These guys have more mobos and watercooling stuff than you could fit in two closets. So no biggies to them.

Many other options for resses.

It's nice, huge, and way more than you need, but it's well made. It was released in the first version for users at xtreme systems forums. Was last year, but there is at least one thread there for you to read.

I wouldn't get the Fuzion V2
Or that brand of rad
Or that pump
The DD barbs are rebadged bitspower (they make them), so you see the same label bitspower, your okay, can be cheaper too.
Yes, good solid screw down hose clamps. Can't get more secure than that.

Good tubing, but the colored stuff looks better.

I wouldn't touch that dye recommended with a 10' pole.
Fun read about Feser liquid.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22...

Distilled water, a biocide or a Ianh Silver Kill coil is all you need.

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March 5, 2010 2:19:05 AM

The D-Tek seems really popular. What are your reasons for not getting that? And all the other stuff you disagreed with I guess. The feser rad's are popular too I thought. What about one of the black ice rads? And I'm trying to figure out which I would need to get.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9015/ex-rad-158/Black...

And how about this for the cpu water block
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9160/ex-blc-620/Swift...

Or does the pump have to be teh same as the water block?

But yeah, it sounds like I'm definately going to use the FUsionQ Res. It's too cool. So now to figure out my rad.
Thanks for the input guys.

And a quick edit... How are you figuring out all these barb and tubing sizes...
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a c 86 K Overclocking
March 5, 2010 4:45:20 AM

Feser as a company and people within suck. They tried to take over the market with some odd copyright EU issue, it didn't work. They don't work with major reviewiers. Bad company. You have to go back almost a year ++ and on top forums to understand. I wont send them my money. EK, XSPC, Black Ice, Thermochill. They deserve my Radiator money. Don't forget Swiftech tho, great US company. I met Gabe, CEO from Swiftech, a real regualar, smart guy.

The Feser rads are techinicaly sound. I just hate their issues, as many other informed folks feel. Thye tried to steal many copyrights, they wouldn't respond to product ssues. They are in Germany BTW.

Pumps are varied. A quick list like some posted does you no good. Thre is a MCP 655 Vario (A) and a 655 (B). Both of these are made by Laing. You need to learn the diff, not rely on a bam, done buy this stuff. Laing pumps also come in the DDC3.2 flavor too.

GTZ block is pretty good. I changed on my annual rebuild to the XT.

You would see a 1-2 C decrease using the new Swiftech GT block on the i7.
http://www.overclockers.com/annual-water-cooling-cleani...

Maybe you see I have a real clue. Maybe you should visit OC Forums were many watercoolers hang out.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/
I'm Conumdrum there too.


Might want to dig a bit on the top of this forum. Get used to Martin and Skinnee. Science don't lie. Or be " I use this stuff, it must be the best".
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March 5, 2010 5:09:37 AM

Cool. Thanks a lot Conumdrum big help! I just read another post about laing pumps right before I read this was about to ask about em. The thing I'm worried about now is the black ice rads I think said were 18 inches? The antec 1200 is exactly that so I'll have to look into fitting something better. Thanks for the help though. Gonna get a full list made in a week with everything so I'll see what everyone thinks then. Thanks again!
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a c 86 K Overclocking
March 5, 2010 5:33:19 AM

Mannn, dude. Whats the deal with black ice rads? Make sure your not looking at the hype from 3 yars ago about an old BI rad. They have 4 current desings in thr last 3 years. You NEED to understand the difference between rads.

Low FPI/high FPI, learn the fannage requirements. Newer rads have no problem with flow rates, old rads do.

You have scrateched the surface. You need to look at other forums and start hanging out. goung back and reading post after post.

I could give you a quality parts list, but where is the wisdom in that?
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a c 86 K Overclocking
March 5, 2010 5:37:19 AM

Dtek is just fine. You know what makes a good block? Just fine vs top of whats currrenty availible? looking at the stores invenory and wha thay say is old hat. Old

Just keep at it.

Dtech V2 is great if your looking at a block over one year old. Forums is where you learn, not reviews unless you look at the date of he reviww.
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March 5, 2010 5:48:44 PM

Hey guys. So a few more questions now after reading more today. I'm still having trouble figuring out how you know which pump size and barb size at that. I have not found anything that specifically explains how to choose your parts. I'm understanding how it all works much better. Any links that anyone could provide concerning, tubing sizes. Also I've seen charts comparing rads but like Con said I would like to understand them before I ever start looking at them. All the sites I find recommend rads but they don't explain FPI and stuff like you Con was talking about.

I'm still up on the black ice rads. They have good ratings through all the models. Well the SR-1s I'm guessing are the newest hence the most expensive and least reviews. Still trying to figure out how big I need though.

Thinking the XSPC 360 Triple 120mm or the Black Ice SR 1 360 Triple 120mm...
Does the radiator HAVE to have the fans mounted on it. Considering the antec has 6 fans already with speed control. Or it really depends where I put it in or on the case I'm guessing.

I'm still not sure why your against swift tech pumps either. They have the highest GPH... Reviews are good... They are older I guess. And from what I've read those swift tech MCP 655 are the same as laing just with a different name... Or were you just saying you'd get the 655 A not the B? For the speed control?

How about the DD pumps, if not the 655A with speed control. They seem to have good reviews and this one I found has a really high flow rate compared to others

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7505/ex-pmp-64/Danger...
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March 5, 2010 8:31:31 PM

rudy,

I really recommend reading the "New to Watercooling" thread at the top of this forum. It will give you alot more information to go off of.

Also if you are going to buy anything from Dangerden I recommend buying directly from them as since they are in Oregon there is no sales tax, and you will get the beest prices on thier components when buying directly from them. Here is thier website: http://www.dangerden.com

-ouch1
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March 5, 2010 11:48:46 PM

Thanks ouch. I've read those more then once and I've read all the stickies on multiple other sites. I'm slowly understanding more. I read that for half inch barbs a good idea can be to use 7/16th ID tubing. And the other side of the barbs, the G 1/4th is the side that goes into the res or pump or w/e else right.

So the Swift 355 should be used in higher restrictive loops. And the Swift 655 is used for less restrictive. I realize that the black ice rads say they are high restrictive which means I should go with the swift 355? Am I understanding this correctly? I'm not really sure what this whole restrictive term means.
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a c 86 K Overclocking
March 6, 2010 1:54:30 AM

Restrictive means it impedes water flow. Radiators are very non- restrictive when it's compared to CPU blocks, Mosfet/NB etc blocks. Rad water restriction is a non-ussue, don't even worry about it.

There is also restrictive when it means air flow.

Low Fins Per Inch means the rad is less restrictive to air flow. They cool well with lower speed fans. The BIX has a VERY high FPI, you need high spped fans and usually in push/pull to get them to perform well. But they do remove more heat than a low FPI.

The BI SR-1 and the XSPC RX series are pretty much the same. Good rads. I said RX,, not RS series, the RS is the old series from XSPC.

There is a link in the sticky at top for Martins and Skinnees web page. Suggest you read up on the different rads, fans used, heatloads at certian Delta T results. You'll learn a lot.

Both pumps are great. The D5 vario is good, many like the DDC 3.2 with an aftermarket top, it's native 3/8 ID tubing, kinda small. Aftermarket top allows any size barb you want. Ohh all Barbs are G1/4 thread, has nothing to do with the OD of the barb. GPH is 1/2 half of the story. Pay attention to head pressure, how good the pump can push through restriction like multiple blocks. For a CPU and GPU loop, it's not an issue unless it's some odd configuration.



Both of those pumps are sold by 4 companies, but they are ALL made by Laing, the manufacturer. A DDC 3.2 is the same as an MCP355
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a c 86 K Overclocking
March 6, 2010 2:02:32 AM

BTW, I spent 2-3 months before beginning asking questions. Joined a few top watercooling forums, read them pretty much daily and just soaked up the info quietly. Finally decided to spend the big money, by then I was well versed of what was good/bad. Had all the terminolgies worked out. Built my parts list, posted it, made a few revisions, I was done.

So it just takes time. You'll figure it out. Once the parts are at your door it's out of our hands.

These forums are in the sticky at the top BTW.
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March 6, 2010 3:08:24 AM

Yea I just figured that out about an hour ago with the pumps. Gonna get one of the 655s not really sure yet. They seem like they have the highest rating. If I can afford the vario I will.

Thanks a lot for your time Con.
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