I ordered my first water cooling setup. I then joined this forum and decided to get another radiator. Any comments?
Here's what I got coming.
DangerDen MPC-CPU for the 1156 socket (I know they're not the best rated, but I didn't know that and I just went with a name I recognized) I'm sure it'll do the job, even if its 2-3* hotter, who cares right? As long as its WAY cooler than my ZeroTherm CPU cooler.
Oh, and some fans/tubing/coolant/clamps. I figure I'll just have to build some mounts for the radiator, I don't know if I want to go above the case or on the side with the external radiator. Above would be easier, would have the shortest and simplest tubing path, but would make the water pump work harder. The side would have longer tubing, and air wouldn't get trapped in it, having it not at the top of the loop. I think the fill spot should be the top off the loop so any bubbles rise to the reservoir and it can be refilled, rather than having any air trapped above unknowingly. (since the rad is black you can't see the air.
And I've read here and there that you're supposed to do a 24hr leak test? Does that mean I should go ahead and plug it all into a circuit and run it for 24hrs before mounting it on the CPU/VID card? I just think if I do that, I'll have to empty the system and *** to mount it....
Last thing is I was planning on running the loop like this
You have barely enuff rad for your setup. You overclock the CPU it needs a 120x2 at a MINIMUM. The 295 will saturate or close to it, the 120x2 ability. You'll need some high speed loud fans on that black ice rad, it's fins per inch are very high. Look at two 38mm thick 2000+ rpm fans for the rad. The stealth rads are an old design and much newer ones perform better.
The pump/res setup isn't a top notch setup. I hope it's flowrates and head pressure ratings are enough for the blocks. Probably will be, the TDX block is pretty low restriction. The TDX might be 5-6C worse than something like the HK LT or the Swiftech XT.
Noticed you got the MPC CPU block. Yep, your temps aren't gonne be very good.
Bit short on the homework, took me 3 months to buy my first part.
Restart. Zero research=bad. If the air cooling is working just join a few forums (in the sticky at the top, watch, read learn. Don't expect an easy time if you just ask for a "Best Buy" experiance. You gotta learn. I do this a million times a year helping folks. It always is the dedication and the ability of the user. Some fail, some just give up.
Dice on your side of the table. What you have will work, but if it's enuff for you you win. You'll upgrade in time to better stuff as you learn.
I would replace that CPU block with at a a min a Swiftech GTZ, it's one version old and still a great block, way capable of a an i7 at 4.0 GHz.
OH, and I'm going to try out the DD MPC-CPU block and see what I get. Frozen CPU doesn't let anybody return liquid cooling components, so might as well see where it gets me. If my temps are unacceptable, then I'll swap it out
Looking at the different comparisons of blocks. People are worried about a 2-5* difference. I DGAF about 2-5*. I'm hitting 60* consistantly on air, I was up to 70* for a little while but I don't like that. If I can keep the temps under 60* on load, then I'll be happy.
I'm going to run the setup with what I got coming and see. I'll report back with my results. If it gets too hot, I'll just shut it off, get another CPU block and start again. If its still too hot, I'll add another radiator and start again, ect ect.
Got the water setup going. Here is a quick snapshot and one of my highest 3dmarkVantage score. This is with the core clock at 695mhz, and memory at 1025. I'm sure I can get more out of it, it tops out the temps at 50* or so. Same with the CPU and prime 95, 50* peak at 3.6ghz, voltage 1.23v