Corsair H50 worked for me. !Important update!

AsAnAtheist

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Important update: First Corsair confirmed it was indeed Shin-Etsu thermal grease, then MicroSi, confirmed it was the X23-7783D thermal grease. This means that cleaning, and reapplying of a different thermal grease is actually worse then using the stock thermal paste on the Corsair H50.

I noticed that Best Buy sold Corsair H50 and a best buy near me had it in stock, so I decided to take a risk and give it a try, I was even willing to sacrifice some speed just to get my 2 other dimm slots open, something the Corsair H50 would fix..

First off I have to say I was not that pleased to see the packaging on the Corsair H50. It felt a little cheap for the amount of $ I was paying, $79.99. The manuals/instructions could really use some work, and the radiator should definitely be packaged in something other then hard cardbox.


Enough of the unboxing rant. Time to get down and dirty. On my Sunbeam cooler@ 3.7 ghz, 1.525v the heat sink would stick around at 57c after 5 hrs of prime95.
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Prime95 test= In-place large FFT's for maximum temperature.

I was hoping that the Corsair could do it at near the same temperature, or I'd have to lower the clocks/voltage. As I said, I was willing to sacrifice some speed to get my 2 dimm slots back. The mount of the Corsair H50 was not bad really, and was average as far as mounting brackets goes. I decided to try a exhaust configuration, using push/pull setup for the H50's radiator. That ended up having better results then the Sunbeam CCF-120mm, by around 3 degrees Celsius (I waited a few seconds so the temperature went down a little to 48 c by time I took picture. It was staying at around 53-54 when under load..
Temp%206%20hrs%20h50.jpg


Finally I decided to try an intake config using the same push/pull setup with the Corsair H50. Letting the fans suck in cold air from outside, and blowing the hot air into the case. The result was even better. 8c-10c cooler then the CCF-120mm while even underload for over 2 hours longer then the Core-Contact Freezer.
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And another at 8 hrs
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I play on making a shroud but at the moment I am happy with the result. Enjoy some pictures of my Rig:
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Conumdrum

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Standard double fan pull into case. Good job. Old news.

Nice silly add of many pics that say I got a massive system.

Thanks.

http://www.overclockers.com/annual-water-cooling-cleaning-rebuild-journal/
 

overshocked

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WOW man, the im suprised how badly it killed the sunbeam. Id say overclock it some more. ;)

Submit it to the club when finished.

What camera are you using?

And did you replace the capacitors on your 4850's?
 

AsAnAtheist

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Lol no need to link it I am kinda familiar with your work.
I was hesitant to use the Corsair H50 as I still harbor some resentment for it (even as I am using it), however I did need back my 2 dimm slots, and modding the Core-contact freezer to have the fan mounted vertically was not an option.

I am still saving up for my water loop (360 rad, once the Phenom II x6 come out I will see if it's better to get the Phenom II x6 1090T or the i7 920. This is probably going to be a build in the beginning of 2011 however. I am still learning a bit about water cooling.

This system is probably going to get placed in my living room after some modifications once I get my new build in like 9 months~.

@Overshocked

I already tried overclocking it more, no luck buddy. I tried going to 1.55v@ 3.8 ghz, and past that I won't go without real water cooling not the imitation Corsair H50 I got.

I am using the Canon EOS Rebel XSi DSLR camera. I posted on a CPU mounting thread giving you some info about picking a camera dunno if you saw it..

?.? Funny that you asked, I am looking for a place locally to buy some quality japanese capacitors for my motherboard, preferably Chemicon caps. But no luck. I don't want to deal with online vendors because I don't know any reliable ones.
 

overshocked

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Scrooge. [:jaydeejohn:4]
j/k



Hmmm, thats to bad. I would really like to see some higher clocks.

And OMG i am so envious of your beautiful camera.

Are you replacing the caps around your CPU? If so, you might wanna do a vmod while your at it. I think you could get some higher clocks if you did that.
 

AsAnAtheist

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I am replacing most of the capacitors, I am still not done labeling ever capacitor and it's guessed purpose. (I am having to follow the physical trails :/ not fun lol).

Also I will check the HD 4850's tomorrow to check out their capacitors, I am sure they're fine for their purpose but we'll see.

:/ Don't be too envious man, it costs a bit of money I wouldn't want you or anyone else to think of spending that much money for a camera unless your using it to make a profit (as I am). Or unless you have a very secure financial situation.
 

AsAnAtheist

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Important update: First Corsair confirmed it was indeed Shin-Etsu thermal grease, then MicroSi, confirmed it was the X23-7783D thermal grease. This means that cleaning, and reapplying of a different thermal grease is actually worse then using the stock thermal paste on the Corsair H50.
 

Conumdrum

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I can't imagine it's Sin to start with. Don't you pull a plastic tab off the CPU block and apply it? Or do you have to apply the paste PROPERLY to the CPU first?

I thought it was pull the sticky tab off and apply?

If it's pull the tab off it's not Shin. You ever see Shin in it's normal state?

 

AsAnAtheist

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They put a plastic cover (doesn't touch the thermal paste) on top of the copper base with the thermal grease. I dont own a tube of Shin-Etsu X23-7783D but I have seen an application of it's similar thermal grease Shin-Etsu x23-7762, it matches the way the Corsair H50's thermal grease looked.

Why exactly do you doubt it's Shin-Etsu X23-7783D?