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Watercooling set up

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May 10, 2010 11:27:47 PM

So I am new to watercooling, I read the post on here about watercooling but I am still unsure of some things. I have two GTX 480's that I want to be watercooled. I want to have a separate loop for the graphic cards and a separate loop for the CPU. Im thinking about adding a waterblock to the chipset, but im assuming that can run off of the CPU loop just fine? I know I will need two radiators to achieve optimum cooling, so what size should I get for the graphic cards? Would two 120.3 rads be good for both loops? and half inch tubing? I am also unsure about what kind of pump will be good enough for this setup.

Sorry for all the questions, like I said I am new to watercooling, plus the GTX 480's just came out so there is not alot of research that can be doneon watercooled GTX 480's.

More about : watercooling set

a b K Overclocking
May 11, 2010 12:56:20 AM

I'd get a 420/480 rad for the SLId 480s and a single 320 for the CPU. List full specs.
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May 11, 2010 1:57:27 AM

Core i7 950 at 3.8Ghz, would like to go higher once its water cooled
12 gigs of DDR3 1600
2 GTX 480's
EVGA SLI Classified
2 intel X-25 M in raid 0
1 WD Caviar Black 1TB
Thermaltake 1200 Watt PSU
Thermaltake Speedo Advantage Case

Do you mean a 420 or a 480 rad for the graphic cards? you confused me when you said a "single" 320 for the CPU.
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a b K Overclocking
May 11, 2010 2:30:17 AM

Do you have space for two loops? It would mean double pump and double reservoirs for not so much performance.

A strong pump can move water so fast that it barely heats up after passing through blocks, the difference would be 1-3C, which I don't think is worth it.

Getting watercooling can drop a card from 90C down to 30C-40C, why go through the trouble for a meager increase. Not to mention pumps aren't dead silent.

It depends on how big your case is really, but I would go for single loop. A single 480 should do 40C - 45C a bit hot for water cooling but much much cooler than air and this isn't hard to do. This is with overclock in mind.

If you want performance go dual rad. 480s are best if you can find mountings for it. If your case has a 360 mounting, use that. A dual radiator setup should get about 30ish, not significant drop after the first since you are still running room temp air into it. As temps get lower, cooling ability reduces.

You should definitely go for a MCP 655 pump if you want single loop. Dual loop you might want the MCP 355 pump, not because they are stronger (they are not), because they are low profile. Use 3/8 inch ID tubing, they are easier to work with.

Don't use coolant, just distilled water and go for colored tubing if you want. The dye in coolant stains and can build up and cause a lot of trouble.

Also get a fan controller you probably want it to be quiet. Don't use dual layer fans, its really pointless. Double fans don't increase air flow, only air pressure which does nothing for you except noise.

You might want to consider a dual thickness radiator if you want to save space. I personally don't like mounting radiators externally so I simply got the biggest 360 raidator that can fit in my case mountings. Cooling performance isn't top notch but is acceptable and still beats air cooling by miles.

Watercooling isn't going to break any records for overclocking. Just a number IMO. High end air can do really good already, at that point the architecture of the CPU is limiting more than heat. You would probably get to 4.0ghz and a bit but don't expect amazing results. You would still need to up voltage obviously which creates a lot of heat. Cranking up the voltage is a surefire way to turn a computer into a space heater. So what is it worth really. My favorite part of watercooling is unbeatable looks, quiet, and no overheating problems with graphics cards.
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a c 86 K Overclocking
May 11, 2010 3:23:41 AM

My best advice is go back to the sticky and bookmark ALL of the links you can. begin reading at other forums, nothing wrong with backtracking 20-50 posts. You'll be amazed how many people ask the same questions just like you week after week. Spend a while.

You asking would two 120x3 rads be good shows you don't know there are many rad types out there with different uses and charecteristics or understand a 120x3 for two 480 GPUs is probably not enough if your going for a low noise situation.

What is the heatload of a 480 GPU and with xx rad and xx fans what will your DT be?

Learn more please, lots.
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May 11, 2010 4:20:46 AM

the whole upper area of my case is open to put a rad in it. My case is 21 inches long. I know im not going to get amazing overclocking results, I will be happy at 4Ghz, just on air it gets to hot at 4Ghz so I back it down. I think I am going to wait on watercooling the graphic cards, I have good air flow in my case and at load they run at about 70c to 74c which is cooler than most people are getting on air with these cards, I also have them overclocked as much as I can on the stock voltage. I have been reading as much as I can into this, I just wanted to ask some questions on the things I am unsure of.

I want to go for performance, but for now I will stick with just water cooling for the CPU so I can learn about watercooling first rather than going all out crazy and watercooling everything. Im not to worried about noise, I just dont like the fans on the graphic cards when im gaming, its just to annoying. I wouldnt mind going for a much quieter set-up though just to see what its like. Overall I want performance cooling.

The main things that Im confused on is which kind of pump, res and rad to get.
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a c 86 K Overclocking
May 11, 2010 4:27:02 AM

Again, thats why I said go back and read all the links in the sticky at the top. It's ALL in there. I could hold your hand and march off to a store in Oklahoma and buy the stuff from Gary at sidewinders, or we could go to PPC in Florida.

Dude, figure it out, it will take weeks. Don't want to make the effort or don't have the time, I can't help you.

You need to do it your self, WC is not a Best Buy experiance, and your on your own untill you get a teeny bit of a clue and spend some time learning.
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a c 86 K Overclocking
May 11, 2010 4:33:06 AM

Okay okay. A good basic solid kit pre selected from top parts kit for a CPU only. The rad might be too small for your needs. The hose kinda sucks. The pump is just the basic 655 fixed speed, but enough for the CPU loop.

But it's a great start and any lesser kit is wayyyy less capable than this.

http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-H20-22-Ultima-XT-Liqui...
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May 12, 2010 2:18:06 AM

I do like that kit, bit ive been spending alot of time on the danger den site and they have custom kits were I can choose the parts I want. Ive also been reading the guide on overclockers tech.

I know that the D5 pump will be better for a single loop set-up, but I would like to get a chipset block down the road. The guide says it will be fine for a mutiple block set-up that is low restrictive. Would a DDC pump be better overall when I do get the chipset block? I will only be using this loop for the CPU and the the chipset. I will get another loop for the graphic cards when I decide to watercool those.

Im also looking at the black ice GTX 360 rad for the CPU loop. I want the black ice SR1 360 rad but there is no option for that in the kit. The SR1 is fan optimized and the site says it is the best performer with 2000 rpm fans. Is the GTX 360 rad good enough for this set-up?

I know your getting frustrated that I posted this before reading your sticky about watercooling, im just trying to figure out what to do while im reading your sticky.
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a c 86 K Overclocking
May 12, 2010 4:23:02 AM

The DDC pump with an aftermarket top is the bomb. A D5 VARIO is almost as good, either would be fine.

BTW, you do know by now since you have read lots of reviews, forum comments and tests that the DD TDX block is an older design and doen't work well on hotter newer chips. It was considered equal to the best blocks when the Q6600 was still fresh. The only thing that DD changes is the TOP for the new mobo holes

In comparison, I can name three other block makers that are on their third improvement since being equal to the DD block.

The GTX rad performs poorly with anything UNDER 2000 RPM.

I guess you'll get around to reading the tests when you do.

Your putting the cart before the horse, you going to spend a few $$ and then go oops.

Quit shopping. Learn first. LOL reading shopping lists at DD isn't the best way to read a sticky.

Many other stores sell the BI SR-1 or the XSPC RX series rads.
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May 12, 2010 4:34:26 AM

Yea I had the MC-TDX block selected with a brass top. When the time comes I will probably just buy the parts separately so I can get the better parts.

Im still going to continue to do some more research. I think ive got some of the parts set. I want the SR1 rad with 3 coolermaster R4-L24 fans. Their quiet and have a high rated CFM, I also use two of those on my CPU heatsink now and they work very nice. They are also at 200 RPM. Do you think the GTX rad would be better since I will have 2000 rpm fans? I am still considering the SR1 just because if I want it to be more quiet I wont run into heat problems running the fans at low rpms.

I will read the tests tomorrow after work. I remember looking at CPU block that is current and is low restrictive, I wish I could remember were I saw it at.


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a c 86 K Overclocking
May 12, 2010 4:51:03 AM

Well, I'll say the fans are pretty. The fan DB and pressure ratings on rads has been pretty much panned as ...odd. In fact Coolermaster came out with a redone statement on the DB ratings. Odd it doesn't show up on the Amazon site I checked.

Those fans do not have the pressure ratings or the ability for a tightly finned rad like the GTX. Do you even know about the importance of fin (FPI) spacing yet?


Read the test after work. You think it's going to take an hour?

Your shopping and setting a parts list before you even know where the trunk or a hood is, or if 3 wheels is better than 4.

Quit asking questions and being more noob every second. Your a great, perfect example of a Toms forum user.

Get to work, know the value of doing it right, but man.... quit getting distracted, get to work you... f^%l. Stop asking these questions, use your time wisely.

I'm so done here.

I'l spend my valuable time helping those who understand and will build a good rig and not fail terribly. Yea, you have frustrated me.

Buy an Apple or a Dell.
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May 12, 2010 4:43:28 PM

Conumdrum, perhaps you should excuse yourself from the forums. There is already enough sass here and we don’t need you adding to it. No room here for posters calling names. The OP said that he didn't know a lot about water cooling. He has not been disrespectfully towards you; rather it seems to me that he was thinking out loud about how his system could be done. Most people as they try to understand a new concept will ask incorrect questions or make incorrect judgments. If you have nothing positive to help the OP don't post. If you are so easily "frustrated" don't post. OP, Waffle has the best reply IMO try PMing him and he will likely point you to the site that sells the equipment you want and the support there will answer all or most of the questions you have. Your project to water cool your system should be fun go for the entire system if you want.
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a c 86 K Overclocking
May 13, 2010 4:34:59 AM

topper747, you don't understand. I know what it takes to build a proper WC loop. The OP did not want to do the effort, he was picking parts way before he should of. Heck he hadn't even finished readin the sticky yet. And was shopping for parts.

Don't know if you watercool, or plan to, but it's quite a bit more complex and you have to know things. The ONLY way is ask 17 questions a day or be given the material by someone who took the time to write numerous helpful articles and guidance of what to do.

If the OP decides to not follow that path, and I have seen TONS who don't and fail, so be it. It frustrates me because I see it time and time again. They deserve a slam, and maybe it will get them in the right direction. If not, boy do I feel better to verbally drop someone I have tried to help.

BTW, The link that Shadow posted? He's already moved onto a better more informed forum and is doing very very well for himself. I asked him to move up the food chain, he did. I can say with 99% certainty his build will be good and proper.
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a c 86 K Overclocking
May 13, 2010 7:18:56 AM

Just wrote this. You think it would help? It matters or will he just go back the the HSN shopping channel?

Posted on a forum that matters. Any replies to this here are on ignore.

.....................................
My first hack. Formatting and bold etc needs worked out, looking for input. What's missing, what's redundant, redo of sections, whatever. Go for it.

Welcome to the much needed Watercooling Heatload Explanation.
A watercooled PC generates heat, some parts make massive amounts due the incredible calculations to give us what we crave. Realistic games, Folding for our future, and decoding DVDs for our own personal use.
I'm going to focus on two parts of your PC. The CPU and the GPU. These are the main hot parts we need to cool. I'll touch on a few other issues you need to understand as I hack my way through this.
I used to teach electronics to young folks, been water cooling for a few years, and I think I can help get the concept across to any new person looking to expand their knowledge and build a really nice rig. Understanding the big picture, answering the eternal Forum question, "What stuff do I need to cool my rig". I'll try to answer this.
Most importantly, I need to say, if it wasn't for all the testers who post scientific tests and not hack reviews this post wouldn't exist. These are people who for science and curiosity spent $100s++ of their own money and time building testing rigs, and COUNTLESS hours of their personal time to inform us, the uniformed public. I thank you Martin and Skinnee, you're an amazing part of our water cooling world.
Past the garbage, on to the important stuff.
Okay, you got an xx processor. What heat does it make under load? Heat is from the voltage and the amperage draw your CPU needs. Increasing voltage really increases your heatload as does your overclocks.
If a CPU uses 200 watts of power, about 80% to 90% will be lost as heat as the work is done in the CPU. It's deep electronic stuff, just go with it okay? You have to remove the heat.
You can express your required heatload in three ways.
1. Basic cruzin the web
2. Gaming
3. Benching for the best overclocks
Once that is done decide on these three things.
1. Your budget
2. Acceptable noise levels
3. What can you fit in your case
Determining your heatload isn't a perfect science. You'll find numbers all over the place. From what you have learned from reading lots of info, Googling terms like "heatload i7 965, AMD xxx, Q6600 overclocked , etc. Reading 3-7 pages of Google, and following links within the Goggle links you should have an idea of what wattage you need to cool for your needs for your CPU and/or GPU.

CPU heatload
For example, I remember a Q6600 at 3.9 was 150 watts MAX. An i7 at 4.0 250 watts. Right now as I type my i7 965 stock is at 80 watts. My peak load is 340 watts, but for a very, very short time. So take the min/max with a grain of salt. These are max testing loads, so real world is a bit lower if you're a big gamer. I'm making a point, it's a lot of heat and you need to remove it. I use 250 watts as my stress wattage for my calculations on MY chip.
GPU Heatload
GPU's are a big issue now. Some are moving to watercooling, never done it before just because their GPU screams like a undead banshee when gaming etc. I have these neat links from another forum. From what others have said these folks did a TON of work, and is trusted. They were able to only look at JUST the GPU heatloads on many cards. No full system power, we all can do that with a wattmeter.
Bookmark it!
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635...

Please, I ask you to attempt to understand your heatload before we move on.

How basic WC works in relation to heatload
We generate xx heat, the heat is transferred to the water. The cooler the water the more heat is transferred. As the water heats up its removed by the radiator. The more efficient the fan/radiator combination is, the cooler the water. The cooler the water, the cooler your parts. So simple.
Basic watercooling uses a pump, res, a block, a radiator, AND ambient air temps. Our water can be no cooler than the air temps. A room at 12C will keep the chips much cooler than a room at 30C. Remember that statement. Summers are much hotter and many back off on their overclocks in the summer. Funny thought, I just realized more people mention chilled water, mini fridges etc in the summer.
Finally to Delta T (DT) temps and why it's so important to understand them.

DT temps is the foundation of your WC loop. The better they are, the cooler your chips are. In water-cooling it's simply the difference between the ambient air temps and the water temp on the outgoing side of the rad. Room temps vs. water temps. That's it. You can't remove all the heat or can you go below ambient room temps.
When you boot up a powered off WC PC, the water temps AND your CPU are at room temp. You boot the PC up, the chip gets hot FAST. The water moves over the chip, it begins to remove heat, it goes to the radiator, SOME of the heat is removed. Not all can be removed, you have to know thermodynamics deeply (more than me) to know exactly why. The water begins to warm up slowly, and in time, the water reaches a balance, an equilibrium is reached. Heat is made and heat removed, the loop is stabilized. You change the room temp, the load, or your fan speed it needs to readjust. You increase your cooling system, the water WILL get cooler, better chip temps.
Water temps in a stabilized loop, amazingly is very little different anywhere in the loop. 2-3C difference between the radiator out temp and the CPU out temp changes little. remember the water can't remove all the heat, just some, and some is transferred to the air. It's a system built on many parts and within the laws of physics, look at it that way. Every part effects the other.
Now that DT and loop stability is explained, let's mention good DT temps.
A CPU loop needs good DT. Under 10C is just fine, getting closer to 5C is very nice and important if you want big overclocks. Getting under 5C is just overdoing it, unless your very xtreeme, need it for benching or just want to do it. On an average CPU loop, shoot for under 10C and adjust your overclocks to be fine, under the temps suggested by the makers.
A GPU Loop used to be fine with a 15 to 20C DT. If your a big push it to the max and have full cover blocks on the GPUs, then shoot for 15C or lower. The VRMs on these new cards can be affected by temps. If you got a GTX 280 like me, don't worry about it, it's the 5970s and the 480s in that boat.
So? How do you calculate all of this? A bit of math, figuring out graphs, easy. LOL took me more than a few attempts to do it easy, but you can easily do it with help. Thanks to Martin (retired) and Skinnee we have the data. Bless them.
Let's go with my CPU standard of 250 watts and this link. Link to it please, go to page 4. Read it all when you get a chance.
http://www.skinneelabs.com/hwlabs-sr1360.html?page=4
This is a quality radiator with low fins per inch great for low RPM low noise fans.
Go to the second chart, Use the RED line, It's a good quality popular well performing fan at 1407 RPM. Good middle ground. Bottom of the chart find 250 watts, go up to the red line. WOW we have a 5.5 DT temp, very nice. Remember my comment about a CPU like low DT but a GPU doesn't? Lets toss a 250 watt GPU into the same loop. Res-Pump-Rad-CPU-GPU.
Look what happens to the DT, it's over 11DT now, your CPU isn't happy anymore, but the GPU is just fine. In this case your under radded and need to split the loop or get your DT under control with more fannage, a better high FPI radiator choice AND new/more fans, sorry you got the wrong one to start with, or just more radiator square area.
This is where my earlier entry matters.
1. Your budget
2. Acceptable noise levels
3. What can you fit in your case
In summary, do your homework, plan for your rig and the 1 year out rig. You see another GPU in crossfire? Plan now.
Your DT matters, worth the effort to understand.











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May 14, 2010 2:04:39 AM

Quote:
Dude, figure it out, it will take weeks. Don't want to make the effort or don't have the time, I can't help you./quote]

Quote:
Quit asking questions and being more noob every second. Your a great, perfect example of a Toms forum user./quote]

Quote:
Get to work, know the value of doing it right, but man.... quit getting distracted, get to work you... f^%l./quote]
Quote:
I'm so done here.

I'l spend my valuable time helping those who understand and will build a good rig and not fail terribly. Yea, you have frustrated me.

Buy an Apple or a Dell./quote]

Quote:
If the OP decides to not follow that path, and I have seen TONS who don't and fail, so be it. It frustrates me because I see it time and time again. They deserve a slam, and maybe it will get them in the right direction. If not, boy do I feel better to verbally drop someone I have tried to help.
/quote]

Quote:
Any replies to this here are on ignore./quote]

WOW, I guess the Mods have seen this but one has to wonder if there are two different posters using the same name. One posts he helps the next he is calling names. One thing is sure after a tongue lashing like that Mr. Flame will think twice before he posts here again if he ever does. Funny that after placing the thread on ignore C goes on a 1500 word rant. Topper was right one shouldn't post if one has to do so in a derogatory or insulting manner. Are posters ever Banned here for this kind of behavior?
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May 14, 2010 4:32:26 PM

Steel Head said:
Quote:
Dude, figure it out, it will take weeks. Don't want to make the effort or don't have the time, I can't help you.


Quote:
Quit asking questions and being more noob every second. Your a great, perfect example of a Toms forum user.


Quote:
Get to work, know the value of doing it right, but man.... quit getting distracted, get to work you... f^%l.

Quote:
I'm so done here.

I'l spend my valuable time helping those who understand and will build a good rig and not fail terribly. Yea, you have frustrated me.

Buy an Apple or a Dell.


Quote:
If the OP decides to not follow that path, and I have seen TONS who don't and fail, so be it. It frustrates me because I see it time and time again. They deserve a slam, and maybe it will get them in the right direction. If not, boy do I feel better to verbally drop someone I have tried to help.


Quote:
Any replies to this here are on ignore.


WOW, I guess the Mods have seen this but one has to wonder if there are two different posters using the same name. One posts he helps the next he is calling names. One thing is sure after a tongue lashing like that Mr. Flame will think twice before he posts here again if he ever does. Funny that after placing the thread on ignore C goes on a 1500 word rant. Topper was right one shouldn't post if one has to do so in a derogatory or insulting manner. Are posters ever Banned here for this kind of behavior?


Well considering that Conumdrum is one of the most experienced people on this forum when it comes to water cooling you really need to think before you do a KNEE-JERK reaction to him. I have worked with him and against him a few times over the past couple of years helping people setup thier loops. He and I don't always see eye to eye, but I respect him & his input. Hell he is the person who wrote the water cooling stickey at the top of this section of the forums that so many of us refer people to when they start asking questions about water cooling.

I think he is just tired of people asking for help and then blowing off the suggestions that he and other knowledgable people give freely. He is just trying to give people the best info available so they can build a great water cooled system. And yet those same people who ask for help turn around and balk at the fact that a good water cooling system can cost at least $300, and is not as simple to build as: "insert pin A into slot B". Or those same people ask for help and then turn around and buy a Thermaltake kit or a H50 and then complain that they don't cool as well as they expected them to.

I feel he has every right to get cranky, and if you want to start a flame war with him you need to do a little research on his posts in other threads before you flame him.

-ouch1

BTW Steel head, both you and Topper743 really need to shut your traps and do a little reading before you really piss alot of people off. Espcially considering you have less than 10 posts at the time I wrote this reply, and topper has less than 1/4th the posts that Conumdrum has. And I would say that 90% of Conumdrums are in this section of the forums. HMMMM.
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May 14, 2010 6:07:30 PM

The forums are great. I think that everyone appreciates and some admire those with great technical regardless of the subject. Even subjects like fishing, Art or electronics. Are you saying that because someone has posted a lot that they then have special dispensation to call someone names?

Conumdrum said "get to work you... f^%l."

Ouch is this what you are defending?

Flame was asking for knowledge and mostly what he got was insults.

I think that Topper was right if you are frustrated or angry and just so tired of all these silly people posting over and over and then they don't understand and take heed of one's personal magnificence then said person should not post in that particular topic, easy right, HMMMM. Don't be tired don't be frustrated don't be angry don't post. The writings from C come very close to hate speech.
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May 14, 2010 9:13:47 PM

steel head you should just be quiet...C is right for being pissed off. ive spent a few weeks on this forum and all i usually post about is watercooling. im starting to get irritated at guys that just hop onto Toms hardware and ask ''hey how do i do this?'' when there have been many many others that have asked the same thing.

the problem of i want to cool 2 vid cards, a cpu, and mobo was just JUST posted i think a day or two ago. im also 100% sure that there have been at least 100 others in the past year that want to do the same thing. so stop insulting those that know alot and have contributed a great bit in this forum.

to OP : im sure if you search through the forums you'll find all your answers.
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May 15, 2010 3:53:47 AM

i4yue I am not and have not insulted anyone.

This is precisely my point that there is no room for that here. I initially dropped in because the title of the thread seemed interesting. Then I saw what C had posted about Flame and concurred with Topper that angry and insulting posts shouldn’t be. I should apologize I didn't know that Tom's had appointed C to the Lord Executioner position in the forms. So help me to understand, if someone comes here to post a tech question and that post is then deemed inferior or time worn then he just gets what he gets, insults, attitude and vulgar speech. Is that the way of the boards now? You may be right what we need is a real salty individual to prowl the forums and call the posters a "f^%l"if they need it because " boy do I feel better to verbally drop someone".
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May 15, 2010 4:58:17 AM

people should read older posts before posting something that hundreds have posted before. now if your question is something that is obscure like...hey i have a waterfall running in my back yard...how can i use it to cool my pc or lets see if i can attach a ice maker onto my computer somehow and cool it that way. if you visit this forum enough you'll see the same question asked over and over again
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May 15, 2010 6:48:13 PM

i4yue neither of your two posts here show much thought or logic. You can defend coarse behavior if you like. Even a casual reader would dismiss your comments out of hand. You are off on tangents about ice makers and waterfalls...... Why can't he assist rather than insult or better yet to say nothing at all?
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a b K Overclocking
May 17, 2010 4:01:08 PM

Quote:
WOW, I guess the Mods have seen this but one has to wonder if there are two different posters using the same name. One posts he helps the next he is calling names. One thing is sure after a tongue lashing like that Mr. Flame will think twice before he posts here again if he ever does. Funny that after placing the thread on ignore C goes on a 1500 word rant. Topper was right one shouldn't post if one has to do so in a derogatory or insulting manner. Are posters ever Banned here for this kind of behavior?


Just for the record, yes this thread has been monitored from the start.

Conumdrum is a VERY KNOWLEDGEABLE poster and was REALLY trying to help the OP. The OPs responses to his suggestions showed that he had not "learned" what DT (Delta Temp) means or how important it is when designing a W/C'n system. His main point all along.

A 1500 word rant??? He came back after being so frustrated and STILL gave it a one last shot at helping the OP.

Lastly the issue of name calling. NO it is not condoned here at THGF. Is it a policy at THGF to have "a real salty individual to prowl the forums" and just throw insults and name calling at new posters, NO it is not.

Conumdrum made some remarks out of frustration that really did not need to be said. We all get that way at times and since it is not a habit of his regular posting I have to weigh all the data available to me.

@Steel Head

Quote:
I should apologize I didn't know that Tom's had appointed C to the Lord Executioner position in the forms.


What do you call that remark? An oxymoron? :pfff:  Your new here. In the future if you see a problem in a thread report it at this link or to a Mod. Your posts in this thread did nothing to answer the OP questions. Are you just Trolling to see if you can stir something up? :heink: 

Yes Mods do have the power to make that ban decision. We also have the power to just let a small indiscretion slide by with perhaps a response in this thread as I have chosen to do.

Have a good day.
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a b K Overclocking
May 17, 2010 4:01:41 PM

This topic has been closed by Arthurh


To the original poster. Should you have further need on information please do not hesitate to open a new thread.:) 
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