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THERMAL VOID FILLING,Get A little more out of that heat PIPE

Last response: in Overclocking
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May 11, 2010 11:09:37 PM

Hey folks I've got this trick I've done to several heat pipe CPU coolers and I got good results each time so I thought I'd share.

You ever notice on your heat-pipe where the ends are crimped or bulbed that the fins around that area aren't fully press fit because the pipe is smaller or shorter there than the rest of the identical finned sections? They might also do this near the bends of a heat-pipe where the fattening of the radius makes the fin loose and Maybe some of the fins are loose enough to wiggle elsewhere along the heat-pipe because it just could have been made better (like my old gigabyte G-power) robbing you of thermal conductivity and cooling potential... Heres the fix.

You will need;
Take some Arctic Silver or Arctic Alumina thermal Adhesive (only mix in small amounts, mix 6 drops recommended)
Razor blade
Toothpicks (use the razor to split some of the toothpicks lengthwise into thinner slices)

Filling the void;
1)Starting with the voids around the bulbed and crimped area push the adhesive in with a toothpick.
don't fill it all the way yet, your 6 drop mix should do light coat in 3 pipe-voids
2)use the thin slices you made to stab around the pipe to push the air bubbles out
as that cures (and it will quick) make your next 6-drop batch and do the same to the next set of voids with fresh clean toothpicks and slices
3) once all the voids have a light coat in them go back to the first ones and fill a little more, this is done in layers to prevent bubbles because bubbles will not conduct heat as well. Repeat these steps until your cured adhesive is level with the outer most fin. If done neatly pipes that are below the fin will look like a flush white or gray circle and pipes that are beyond the fin will have nice white or gray ring around the protrusion
TIP) you can lay down a little bit of tape before hand to control your excess if you think you are sloppy or have a shaky hand.

Other loose fins;(not as easy and likely not as attractive looking once your done)
1)using a thin slice tooth pick and a small dab of adhesive push it in where the fin meets the pipe and wiggle the fin.
2)hopefully you get the fin thermal cemented to the pipe but more so you will be thermally connecting it to other fins which are hopefully better crimped to the pipe
3)if your fins have interlocking edges you and tape off a line on the cooler and lay a thin strip of adhesive where they interlock to promote transfer between fins as well.
4)keep in mind as you attempt to cement the fins to the pipe that you want to maintain airflow. If your cooler has pipes down the center you may want to leave those ones alone and just focus on the ones on the edge.


I just did void filling to the top of my new 92mm Core contact cooler while running prime95 and my temps dropped 6c as the adhesive cured. thats 6c cooler than it has ever been running prime95.

my best improvement overall was on my socket A board when I did voids, edges and loose fins to a Gigabyte G-power That one was some time ago but I wanna say it dropped full load temps by something near 15c

Good luck, Have fun and Stay Cool :) 
May 12, 2010 1:24:26 AM

I just opened a thread on what should we do about these, 5 minutes after you posted this. I guess i was writing as it posted...

Anyway
AWESOME
May 12, 2010 2:52:17 AM

pbalstar said:
I just opened a thread on what should we do about these, 5 minutes after you posted this. I guess i was writing as it posted...

Anyway
AWESOME

I found your other post, You may have misunderstood my guide. The voids I speak of are where the ends and bends of a heatpipe where the fines are not the block.
voids picture

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/259117-29-direct-heatpipe-flaws
In your case you have found voids in the block that mates the CPU, it is this very reason I chose the sunbeamtech over any other core contact design. You can still fill it with thermal ahdeasive but you should also lap it afterward to ensure you are flush after it has cured. don't go crazy laping either, do on just enough, I don't know how thick those pipes are on the bottom after the flattening process(if its machined it so its already thinner than the rest)

here's a laping guide when you are ready.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/252168-29-heatsink-lapping-guides
EDIT
but Frostytech.com says otherwise so who knows;
"The Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus heatsink has a pressed base with a surface roughness of approximately ~32 microinches. The base is flat in both axis. The creases between the copper heatpipes and aluminum form channels which help to evacuate excess thermal compound."
!