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First build, need assistance

Forum Systems : New Build First build, need assistance

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- 0 +

UGH I just posted my entire message but it said something about "not having a title for my poll" even though I didn't want to post a poll (Edit: must of hit new poll my mistake)... when it sent me back my message was toast :heink:. I'll keep it short and sweet now.

 

================

 

I'm looking to upgrade from my 6 year old dell. I'd like to stay around or below $1,000 Canadian. Here's what I've got so far:

 

SAMSUNG 22X DVD Burner Black SATA Model SH-S223F - OEM
$29.99

 

Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
$71.99

 

Western Digital Caviar SE WD3200AAJS 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM
$59.99

 

MSI R4870 Radeon HD 4870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
$311.99

 

G.SKILL PI Black 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL4D-4GBPI-B - Retail
$59.99

 

GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3P LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
$155.99

 

Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80570E8400 - Retail
$197.99

 

============

 

I'm also going to need power & cooling... will these do alright?

 

OCZ 500 Watt StealthXStream
OCZ Vendetta 2 CPU Cooler-MIR 120mm fan, rifle, 4 pin, 12V DC

 

Is the onboard audio/network fine?

 

OS Vista Home Premium 64bit?

 

Thats everything I'll need, and they'll work together?


Message edited by erikh06 on 12-20-2008 at 01:05:51 AM
Reply to erikh06
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If you look on newegg.com you can get the E8500 cpu for the price you have listed on the E8400. It is a nice step up. You can also save a few bucks by going with a raidmax case. They have some very nice designs. A nice feature some of them have is a fold down motherboard tray. Some of the models come with decent power supplies too. That particular board is made for DDR2 1333 RAM. You may want to consider upgrading to that. G.Skill is good memory and should work, but it isn't on the list of supported memory. OCZ is a good quality with reasonable price, you should be able to get some 1333 for about the same price. I would definitly go with XP pro or home over vista as well. Microsoft is scrapping vista and putting their recsourses into a new OS. They never put much effort into fixing vista. Everything you have listed should work fine together. I think you would see a performance increase with the upgraded RAM and CPU though. If you haven't visited newegg.com, I would strongly suggest doing so before purchasing. Hope this helps.
aford10

Reply to aford10
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If your gonna newegg your purchase look for the combo deal with that motherboard/cpu, its $341.78 canadian.

No need to change that antec case its very good with lots of airflow, but you will need to purchase 3 120mm fans (LED fans work well as all are visible) and 1 dust filter (side intake) to finish it.

This is a better PSU, it has enough power to run 2 4870's in crossfire in case you want to upgrade later on.
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produ [...] sair%20750

Your hard drive is a bit small. WD 640GB is the sweet spot for hard drives and since you have an onboard ICH10R raid controller I recommend getting 2 and running raid 0.

For your OS either get the 64bit vista premium or 32 bit XP pro. Vista 64 premium works well, supports 4gb of memory and has windows media center integrated (needs a tv tuner card to realize its potential).

The Gskill Pi Black is the best memory for the money you can buy. Its low latency, low voltage with excellent timings. Unless you plan an extreme overclock this is the memory to get.

The best heatsinks are:
Sunbeam CR CCTF 120:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produ [...] beam%20cct
and Xigmatek s1283 rifle:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produ [...] 6835233003
Xigmatek needs the XIGMATEK ACK-I7751 Retention Bracket: Sadly not available on the canadian newegg site.

7.1 Onboard audio meets most peoples audio needs.

Overall a very nice build. What size monitor are you planing to run that 4870?


Message edited by 3lvis on 12-20-2008 at 05:11:44 AM
Reply to 3lvis

I'm sorry, but I have to disagree with essentially everything aford10 said.

1. Newegg.com doesn't apply since the OP said he lives in Canada
2. Raidmax may make decent cases, but their PSU's should be avoided at all costs unless you like sparks and burned hardware.
3. The board isn't "made for DDR2 1333 RAM". The RAM rating on a board is just the maximum supported speed. You're better off keeping the FSB and RAM at a 1:1 ratio anyway. That means that even DDR2 800 RAM will push the E8400 to 3.6GHz without even overclocking the RAM. That G.Skill PI RAM is about the best RAM on the market IMO. You can't really beat DDR2 800 RAM that runs at 4-4-4-12 timings at 1.8v.
4. 64-bit Vista is the only way to go for a new build IMO. A 32-bit OS can't even fully use 4GB of RAM, so there's not even the option of adding more RAM later. I personally use 64-bit Vista and it's a very stable OS. The only BSOD I've ever seen was caused by pushing an overclock too far. I haven't run into any compatibility issues and it runs very fast on my system. I'd never consider putting XP on a new system. Most of the people still bashing Vista haven't ever even tried it. They usually "heard it was crap". Check out www.mohaveexperiment.com to see how Microsoft called out people like that.

Reply to shortstuff_mt
- 0 +

Quote :

aford10: If you look on newegg.com you...


It's newegg.ca (Canadian dollar adjusted) pricing. The E8400 is currently $197.99 and the E8500 $225.99. I read in a few places (did "8400 vs 8500" google research) that it wasn't a big enough improvement for the money... but it MAY have been posted when the 8500 was newer and more money. For $28 should I go with the 8500?

 
Quote :

3lvis: If you look on newegg.com you...


320 GB is the right size for me. Right now I've got 80 in the case (w/ 12 gb free) and I have a 250 GB external HD with 60% free space... though the lack of USB 2.0 makes for slow transfers!

 

For the ram... I didn't plan on over clocking, haven't done it before so if I do it won't be much. I'll have to make sure it works as af10 pointed out it isn't on the list of supported memory.

 

I'll be using a 22" ASUS wide screen LCD. Right now I've got it running duel with my Dell CRT monitor.

 

Been looking at the newegg combos and the 8400 + the motherboard is only -$12. Maybe I should look for a better Ex00 combo and get the motherboard separate?

 

Thanks for the advice. :D


Message edited by erikh06 on 12-20-2008 at 07:01:05 AM
Reply to erikh06
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Okay how about this combo (this takes care of the psu):

 


Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80570E8400 - Retail
OCZ OCZ700MXSP 700W ATX12V V2.2 / EPS12V SLI Certified CrossFire Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply - Retail
$280.78

 

======

 

And about the graphics card. Should I go for this one:
MSI R4870 Radeon HD 4870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
$311.49

 

OR

 

SAPPHIRE 100259L Radeon HD 4870 512MB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
$239.59

 

EDIT: I thought they would be shipping from inside Canada. For the above build this it what it would cost to send:

 

Handling: $126.21
Shipping: $51.67

 

Yikes. Then I'll probably be hit up for $100+ import duty.


Message edited by erikh06 on 12-20-2008 at 07:56:14 AM
Reply to erikh06

If you're running into the Canadian border issue, check out this Canadian online retailer: ncix.com

You will probably get a better deal overall and depending on your province, you may also get an exemption from PST. They offer price matching service as well.

Reply to Akebono 98
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Yep I'm going to go with NCIX thanks. Looks like I only have to pay 5% PST and shipping is <$50.

 

Just trying to finalize the components (will post them here to make sure everything will work and i have what I need).

 

If I purchase all of the components at once will I have trouble getting the mail in rebates?


Message edited by erikh06 on 12-20-2008 at 10:55:17 AM
Reply to erikh06
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I often order from NCIX.ca and it's all good, also if you want another option Direct Canada is another Canadian E-Tailers from BC.

As for the heat sink, your choice of the Vendetta 2 was a good one. Pretty similar to the Xigmatek 1283.

Reply to fatcat

Not sure if you're in range of the Lower Mainland or not, but if so then you can pick it up yourself (they have 4 outlets) and save the shipping cost too... Your delicate components will love you for it!

How does buying at the same time affect mail-in rebates?

Reply to Akebono 98
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I'm in Ontario so... not in range to pick it up.

I figured you needed to supply the manufacturer with the original receipt, but looking at the mir pdf's I guess they only require a copy.

Reply to erikh06
- 0 +

Okay here's what I've got.

 

The Vendetta 2 is out of stock now, as well as the G.SKILL 2x2GB RAM :??:

 

If someone could give it a look over to make sure a) everything is compatable and b) I've got everything I need, I would really appreciate it.

 

Samsung SH-S222A/BEBS 22X DVD+-RW IDE DVD Writer Black OEM
$22.99

 

NCIX XION2-BK Black ATX Mid Tower Case 4X5.25 2X3.5 5X3.5INT 2X120MM Fans 450W W/ LED Fans & Window
$70.53 (w/ rebate applied)

 

Powercolor Radeon HD 4870 770MHZ 512MB GDDR5 2XDVI PCI-E Video Card
$238.99 (w/ rebate applied)

 

G.SKILL F2-8000CL5D-4GBPQ PC2-8000 4GB 2X2GB DDR2-1000 CL5-5-5-15 240PIN Dual Channel Memory Kit
$49.99

 

Gigabyte EP45-UD3P ATX LGA775 P45 DDR2 2PCI-E SATA2 RAID HD Sound 2GLAN 1394A CrossFireX Motherboard w/ FREE Gigabyte GM-M6880 USB Laser Gaming Mouse 1600DPI 3000FPS Black ($24.99 value)
$155.99 (w/ rebate applied)

 

Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Dual Core Processor LGA775 3.0GHZ Wolfdale 1333FSB 6MB Retail
$192.99 (price match)

 

OCZ GameXStream 600W ATX12V 24PIN SLI Ready Active PFC ATX Power Supply 120MM Fan Black
$69.99 (w/ rebate applied)

 

Xigmatek HDT-S1283 Direct Touch 3 Heatpipe Heatsink AM2 LGA775 S754 S939 S940 W 120MM PWM Fan
$37.53 (price match)

 

Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium Edition 64BIT DVD OEM
$139.93 (price match)

 

"Heavy Duty Shipping Box"
$5

 

I wanna put it together myself so I'll save the $50.

 

$1,047.75 including rebates but not including shipping (w/ insurance) and tax.

 

If there is something I missed, something isn't compatible or if there have recommendations (going cheaper) don't hesitate to reply!

 

Edit: I'm thinking I might aswell go with a sound card while I'm at it... Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE PCI 7.1 Surround Sound Card (OEM)? or is the EP45-UD3P onboard sound as good or better?


Message edited by erikh06 on 12-20-2008 at 04:25:01 PM
Reply to erikh06
- 0 +

As far as the case is concerned you might pick one that has no PS included so you can save some money since you already picked your PS.

You might as well add the back plate/bolt through kit for the Xigmatek, a lot better than the push pin that comes standard with that cooler.

Reply to fatcat
- 0 +

Edit: Might aswell stick with that one and replace the 450 w/ the 600. Otherwise I'll have to get the fans separate, plus I like that one.


Message edited by erikh06 on 12-20-2008 at 10:05:07 PM
Reply to erikh06

That slumping CAD sure tightens up the budget, eh? Your build looks fine within that constraint.

+1 on your G.Skill RAM substitution.

You need these two additional parts to mount the Xigmatek:

1. Thermalright Bolt-Thru Kit (I don't see the Xigmatek bracket on NCIX)

2. Arctic Silver 5 (cheaper than MX-2)

IMHO, I wouldn't waste money on that old Audigy sound card--your onboard sound will be fine for gaming. If you have audiophile tastes, then that is a different story... ;) It's also very easy to add a sound card later on.

Enjoy your new rig!

Reply to Akebono 98
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Yes it does... and thanks. :D

I dumped the sound card and went back to the Powercolor Radeon HD 4870 (went to the 4850 when I ).

Heres the "final" list:
(Again, if someone could double check that I have what I need... and that it's all compatable, that would be great)

- Samsung SH-S222A/BEBS 22X DVD+-RW IDE DVD Writer Black OEM

- NCIX XION2-BK Black ATX Mid Tower Case 4X5.25 2X3.5 5X3.5INT 2X120MM Fans 450W W/ LED Fans & Window

- Powercolor Radeon HD 4870 770MHZ 512MB GDDR5 2XDVI PCI-E Video Card

- G.SKILL F2-8000CL5D-4GBPQ PC2-8000 4GB 2X2GB DDR2-1000 CL5-5-5-15 240PIN Dual Channel Memory Kit

- Gigabyte EP45-UD3P ATX LGA775 P45 DDR2 2PCI-E SATA2 RAID HD Sound 2GLAN 1394A CrossFireX Motherboard w/ FREE Gigabyte GM-M6880 USB Laser Gaming Mouse 1600DPI 3000FPS Black ($24.99 value)

- Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Dual Core Processor LGA775 3.0GHZ Wolfdale 1333FSB 6MB Retail

- OCZ GameXStream 600W ATX12V 24PIN SLI Ready Active PFC ATX Power Supply 120MM Fan Black

- Xigmatek HDT-S1283 Direct Touch 3 Heatpipe Heatsink AM2 LGA775 S754 S939 S940 W 120MM PWM Fan

- Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium Edition 64BIT DVD OEM

- Thermalright LGA775 BOLT-THRU Kit for Ultra 90/120 & HR-01 Retail Box

- Arctic Silver 5 HIGH-DENSITY Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound 3.5 Gram

Reply to erikh06

You should look for a SATA DVD burner. There's no reason to put a big IDE cable in your new build to block the airflow.

Reply to shortstuff_mt

Though I too would prefer the SATA variants, if it's an issue of pricing volatility and you've hawked your bicycle to pay for this, then you could get away with the IDE version. Note where Gigabyte has placed the IDE connector--it's the lime green port on the edge of the mobo closest to the top optical drive bays. Not a great distance to go and not really interfering with any key points of airflow. Just bundle and zip tie the excess ribbon cable and you'll be alright.

Damn that sinking Loonie! :D

Reply to Akebono 98
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I wouldn't of known the difference if you didn't mention it... switched to the Lg GH22NS30 Black DVD+RW 22X8X16 DVD-RW 22X6X16 Dl 16X/12X 2MB Sata.

So am I set now?

Reply to erikh06
- 0 +

Great!!!... a couple more questions before I take the plunge.

Western Digital SE16 320GB SATA2 7200RPM 16MB Cache 8.9MS NCQ Hard Drive OEM
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=22979

LG GH22NS30 Black DVD+RW 22X8X16 DVD-RW 22X6X16 DL 16X/12X 2MB SATA OEM
http://www.ncix.com/products/index [...] omoid=1145

Am I going to need to get the cables separately because they're "OEM"?

If so, which ones?

Thanks again

Reply to erikh06

You are correct in that the OEM drives come bare (in electrostatic bags only), so handle carefully by the edges. Not to worry, however, as the UD3P mobo comes with the necessary SATA cables so you don't need to buy anything extra.

One final and minor improvement, if you can spare a little extra budget: move up to the WD Caviar Black HDDs as they are faster than the SE16 models. Smallest one is 500GB at $30 more, or if you can, 640GB (it has higher platter density and hence, speed) for $35 more. This suggested change has no compatability issues, etc. but rather provides better balance against the rest of your system's components.

I realize that you're only using about 170 GB now, but it doesn't hurt to have more speed or space for the future, especially with Vista.

Otherwise, you're good to go!!! :bounce:

Reply to Akebono 98
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Okay okay :na: I went with the WD 640GB SATA2 OEM.

$1,197.71 after price match (-$35... hopefully they'll accept), before taxes/shipping/insurance but the $105 in rebates should wipe that out.

Thanks Ak98 and everyone else. I'm sure I'll bug some more when the lot arrives and I have no idea what I'm doing.

Reply to erikh06
- 0 +

I've been doing some reading and I think it would be smart to have a UPS, considering I'm putting all that money into the system.

TS1250B (600W) or TS1700B (900W)?

I'd need my PC and LCD monitor connected.

Reply to erikh06

TS1250B at 600W / 1000 VA already has margin for your setup because you're not fully drawing the PC's 600W power supply all the time. And I'm including your dual LCD and CRT setup. Get the bigger one if you want to be safe and have more margin, because this is all about insurance. However, Canada's power grid is pretty stable compared to the US and I've never had many problems in this regard. You might also want to ask around locally where you live, as that is most relevant.


Message edited by Akebono 98 on 12-26-2008 at 08:24:16 AM
Reply to Akebono 98
- 0 +

^I went for a 700 watt ups. I won't be using two monitors with it.

Everything but the UPS and OS arrived today. It took me from 6 PM to 3 AM (non stop... not even for food :(), but I seem to have got it together.

The only thing I'm unsure of is my hard drive. How do I know if it's connected and powered on? because when I tried to install xp (temporarily until vista comes) I got this error:

pci.sys address F748E0BF

I have the SATA connected to the hard drive, but do I need anything else? a connection to the power supply too?

Also, I'm not sure if I installed the heat sink properly. All I did was apply the paste (that came with it) to the bottom of the heat sink. I didn't even use the arctic silver on the cpu... am I in trouble?


Message edited by erikh06 on 12-31-2008 at 10:17:58 AM
Reply to erikh06

There will be a lead from the PSU from the HD power.

That is not the reccomended way but unless you got a much extra ooozing out it should be fine. The worst is the CPU will tell it got a poor layer of heat sink grease and stop. Best to try it now, too many bad things happen if you re-do it over and over.

Reply to alcattle
- 0 +

Yeah I was missing the power connection to the hard drive. I'm pretty sure thats squared away now, though now I'm getting a light vibration sound from somewhere... could the hd or one of the cables in there needs to be repositioned (I did move them around when I was in there connecting the hd power). I'll have to look into that later today.

So should I leave the heat sink thing for now and if it's a problem just re-do it with the arctic silver? I've had it on the BIOS screen for up to 10 mins and the temperature is usually around 32 C.

It's probably best if I showed the inside so anyone could take a look and tell me if I should fix something up immediately.

#1
#2
#3
#4
Should I put the fin on the heat sink and point it down towards the ram?
#5
#6
#7
#8
Yeah, I opened up too many panels. Should I tape them up or what? initially I was going nuts trying to figure out why the connections and motherboard wouldn't line up (the motherboard was too high), then realized that I didn't need the raisers in there because there were bumps in there already (right?).
#9
I used a velcro try thing to keep it more orderly and as far as possible from the motherboard.
#10
#11
Hard drive connection. Right spot?
#12
Sata (DVD) connection... right spot?
#13
#14
#15
#16
There was no bump there,,, so leave it empty right?
#17
I have no idea where that goes. It's coming from the front of the case.
#18


Message edited by erikh06 on 12-31-2008 at 01:44:44 PM
Reply to erikh06

Managed to have a look at all of your pics and have a few comments. Sorry I couldn't have responded sooner--I'm sure that you're probably deep into the jungles of Crysis by now...

1. You've got the heat sink installed backwards--the fan should be on the side near the RAM and it should blow through the heatsink fins and towards the back of the case.

2. You should put the fin / spoiler on the heatsink and it should be pointing down towards the plate that says "ultra durable". Install this a couple of fins up from the bottom of the heatsink. However, that top plate blocks the airflow into the mosfet heatsink, but it doesn't hurt. You should install the spoiler before you mount everything into the case, because it's really hard to install once the heatsink is in the case. Examine it first, because there are two little bumps that must align and also the spoiler must seat on different sides of the heat sink fins for it to be secure (look closely at the dents and the spoiler grooves).

3. Given your previous posts above, it wouldn't hurt to reinstall the heatsink the proper way because AS5 has very specific instructions for installation--read their website; it's best to follow them. It also must "cure" for 300 hours. Practically however, alcattle is also right. You can't just switch the sides for the fan on this cooler because of the way it mounts.

4. You'll need 90% isopropyl alcohol and a coffee filter to clean off the thermal compound, or if you'd like to spend extra for ArctiClean.

5. If you have the cooler out, then install the fan and spoiler before you remount (I'm sure you found this out the hard way).

6. Is there any better way to do cable management on your rig? I.e. route the cables behind the mobo tray. If not, then as long as nothing interferes with any interior fan, then it is acceptable, though airflow would not be optimal and it doesn't look as pretty.

7. You could try pulling the cables into the empty drive bays and then zip tying them against some of the holes, as that would make it look neater and also improve the airflow.

8. Have a look at the pictures in this recent thread for some ideas on cable management.

9. Try to put the back covers on the expansion slots back on, as that would help to improve the airflow of the case through the intended paths.

10. You shouldn't leave out the mobo screw on picture 16--a missing "bump" means you should have added a standoff underneath that screw hole. Every mobo screw should go into a standoff.

11. For pic 17, double check all of the items on the front panel, it has to end somewhere. Also check your case manual.

12. For your hard drive, better not to use the mobo's purple SATA ports, as they have an intended use. I'd suggest that you switch back to a SATA cable without the right angle and just plug it into a yellow SATA port next to your optical drive. That way, it saves you the trouble of reconfiguring your BIOS later if you ever add a RAID array on the purple ports. The purple ports are also tied to the PCIe bus, so theoretically, you don't want to waste any bandwidth here.

Don't mean to ask you to rebuild anything, but I hope this helps.

Reply to Akebono 98
- 0 +

Hey, thanks for the reply.

Haha Crysis no... but Far Cry 2 is one of the games I play. ;)

I finally got around to some of the things you recommended...

- Corrected the heatsink / fan and attached the fin facing down toward "Ultra Durable"
- Changed the hard drive sata cable
- Put some tape on the open back panels (temporary fix) ... I don't think the original pieces go back in, or I'm missing something, because I had to break them off in the first place for them to come out, and they definitely don't snap back in.

I didn't remove and replace the cpu paste yet because a) didn't have the stuff to remove it and b) it seems to be working okay for now. When I removed the heatsink the paste had slight "over spillageness" so I cleaned that up.

I absolutely can not find out where that one little cable thing goes. I think it's the start up "beep" audio.

So yeah, haven't had any hardware problems yet. Over the first few days I had a real hard time with Vista... from installing all my drivers and such, I had quite a few BSoD's on restart.

Oh and the UPS saved me once so far. A week or so ago I was on the virtual battlefield when the power went out. Was able to get the heck outa the game and shut down properly :D.

Thanks again.

Message quoted 1 times
Message edited by erikh06 on 01-25-2009 at 01:10:20 PM
Reply to erikh06

erikh06 wrote :

I didn't remove and replace the cpu paste yet because a) didn't have the stuff to remove it and b) it seems to be working okay for now. When I removed the heatsink the paste had slight "over spillageness" so I cleaned that up.


Technically, you can't really "reuse" the thermal paste, but you must have caught the Arctic Silver before it "cured". OK if it seems to be working for now, but one little thing you could do (just to be safe) is to check the temps of your CPU on full load (RealTemp w/ Prime95 on small FFT). As long as you're within bounds, then OK, but best to replace it when you have the chance.

Reply to Akebono 98
- 0 +

Me again, having some trouble.

It's worked perfect up until now... but, I've had lotsa of trouble for the past few days.

When I go to turn it on, everything powers up, but the CPU and CPU fan won't get going. The phase led on the mobo lights up two red, orange and green. Sometimes I can get it to start (when I give the fan a little kickstart spin, but I do that every time), and it will run perfectly, until I turn it off again. I haven't got it to work at all today.

When I hit the power button, the fan does a little jerk, but doesn't continue spinning.

I took everything apart, and put everything back together, a few times now, but whatever the problem is, it still exists.

I tried with one stick of ram. I tried disconnecting everything but the video card and ram. Nada.

I tried the power source that came with the case and the fan that came with the cpu. Nothing.

Reply to erikh06
- 0 +

It sounds like a dead / dying MOBO. Everything you did is what I would've recommended and with no luck... I say MOBO is the issue.

------------------------------ Recommended Builds by Usage
Step-by-Step Guide to Building a PC
Reply to tecmo34
- 0 +

Nuts... it ran flawlessly for 7 months, up until a few days ago... and I've even got a UPS, so there were no power surge issues. Totally random.

 

I'll probably just get a new one (I'm thinking asus this time) and RMA the GB, then keep the replacement they send as a backup.

 

...and here I am, back to using my Dell from 2002 (that has taken an absolute beating over the years). I guess they don't build parts like they used to. :??:

 

Thanks


Message edited by erikh06 on 08-20-2009 at 02:29:22 AM
Reply to erikh06
- 0 +

Okay, I picked up another motherboard (ASUS p5q) and I'm still having trouble.

 

Every so often it will POST, (it was just working fine... I was on my desktop and was using it normally), but after I shut down and started up again, everything turns on (even the CPU fan is spinning) but I have no display and have to press the case power button for ~4 seconds to shut it down again.

 

Also, when I unplug the two 4-pin power cables to the top-left of the board, it does the same thing (everything powers up, but no post).

 

What do you think? power supply? cpu (even though it works sometimes)? can't be mobo - it's new!

 

I have no beep, probably because I still can't figure out where the little 2-pin male connector (coming from the front of the case) connects to, even on this new board.


Message edited by erikh06 on 08-23-2009 at 11:38:17 PM
Reply to erikh06
- 0 +

ram maybe? video card??

 

I might have enough new parts to build a new pc by the time I figure it out!


Message edited by erikh06 on 08-24-2009 at 06:56:21 AM
Reply to erikh06
- 0 +

Alright, I picked up some ram from NCIX (well, waiting for it to come). If if doesn't work still, PSU is next.

 

In the mean time I'll keep looking where to connect this speaker thing. Maybe I need a female connector? the beep code will probably tell me what is causing the problem.


Message edited by erikh06 on 08-25-2009 at 01:27:06 AM
Reply to erikh06
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Fixed... ram!!!

Looks like I have a motherboard, cpu and power source to start a new build with!

Reply to erikh06
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Good to hear you are up up & running now.

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Reply to tecmo34
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Yeah, this is getting pretty ridiculous. It was working fine... I shut down and started again fine, 4 or so times. But when I went to go to sleep, I must of hit "standby" mode by mistake... when I looked back, the power led on the case was flashing and it wasn't shutting down. So the next time I went to start it... boom... bang, same problem.

So WHAT THE F*CK? Faulty power source f*cking up my hardware? this is f*cking ridiculous.

Reply to erikh06
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You back down again?? THAT SUCKS!! :fou:

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Reply to tecmo34
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It's messed up man.

 

I just took out the new ram, and added one stick of the OLD - it's booting up and I'm in vista now.

 

The only thing different, other than the ram, is I removed one of the 4-pin ATX power connectors from the 8-pin power slot, and I remove the 4-pin ATX power connector from the main 24-pin power slot. So I'm running with 4-pin/20-pin power.

 

When it booted, it gave me a message about it losing power before data was saved. Then "Enter to continue".

 

Right now it's running normal, on the single stick of my old ram... BUT, I'm sure that when I turn it off, then back on, weather or not I add another ram in, it will go back to being a jerk. I'm gonna keep it on for a while though, to get some use and enjoyment out of it for a while today.

 

Are there any tests I can do right now, on my desktop, to check of whatever hardware problems?

 

Do you think it's the power source? and my ram maybe isn't toast afterall?


Message edited by erikh06 on 08-28-2009 at 09:37:13 PM
Reply to erikh06
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If I end up on the funny farm... you know why!

 

So I was playing Company of Heroes, and decided I really need the other 2gb of ram. So I shut down the computer, throw another stick in... hit the power button, no post!!! :fou: :fou: GRRR THATS IT!!

 

Then I figure if I'm using 2 sticks of ram, I should use all 24 pins on the main mobo power slot. I also figured I should of unplugged the machine before adding in the new ram. So added the extra 4-pin power connector and disconnected the plug from the psu for a few seconds (so the green light on the mobo went off), then turned the pc on. Works.

 

:heink: :pt1cable:


Message edited by erikh06 on 08-28-2009 at 10:30:47 PM
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