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Cooler for the following config

Hello, Can You please advice me to select the best cooler for my cpu My Cpu specs are Intel i7 860 asus maximus formula III antec 900 gskill 2 gb ram of 1600 mhz corsiar 650watts tx gts 250 1 gb I want the best cooler my specs (not bothered about price). i want to overclock it from stock 2.8ghz to 3.6ghz or 3.8ghz
26 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about cooler config
  1. Prolimatech Megahalems or Thermalright Venomous-X.
  2. Second vote for the Megahalems. One of the best air coolers I've ever seen.
  3. watercooling
    http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8411/ex-wat-140/Swiftech_H20-220_Apex_Ultima_XT_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_Universal_Mount.html?tl=g30c321s818

    throw on another radiator if you really arent bother by price.

    throw on a peltier cooler if you really want to cool your cpu and still arent bothered by price.
  4. Umm Peltiers are for the advanced folks and have fallen out of favor. There is no one single pelt (TEC) able to handle the even a i7 920 heat.

    I could give 20 more reasons, but don't wanna type.

    i4, maybe you should build a TEC rig before you suggest it.
  5. always thought the prob with pelts was that the cold side got so cold that there would be a great deal of condensation and that why alot of people dont use it >.>

    but anyways what would be the next step up from watercooling if peltiers have fallen out of favor?
  6. 3rd vote for Prolimatech Megahalems, or Megashadow if you want something that looks better (but costs more for no performance increase), with one Scythe Slipstream 120mm fan.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835242001&Tpk=megahalems

    http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10026/fan-639/Scythe_Slip_Stream_120mm_x_25mm_PWM_Fan_-_SY1225SL12LM-P.html?tl=g36c365s936
  7. Next step up is chilled water loops. Condensation and the liquid freezing is an issue. Rad in an ice/dry ice bucket etc, chiller made from a compressor like a water fountain, only bigger, etc etc.
    Then DICE
    Phase Change
    Ln2
    Then liquid helium
  8. hmmm interesting...

    do you think introducing dry ice directly into the loop through the res would be any effective? i build my own reservoirs so fabricating one that wont let the dry ice into the pump, cpu block, and rad wouldnt be a prob for me.

    i also use antifreeze also (yes i know....>.>) so liquid freezing wouldnt be a problem for me.
  9. Prolimatech Megahalems Rev B. best air-cooled HS on the market, buy this and never look back.


  10. why not the 212 plus? $15 plus extra fan expense is not worth it imo for 2 degrees cooler, even if price is no object
  11. I've never liked the look of the 212+ and if you look around you can get Xigmatek products for the same money. Thankfully I have business accounts with a lot of suppliers so I can get coolers at trade cost :].
  12. paigeinfull said:
    why not the 212 plus? $15 plus extra fan expense is not worth it imo for 2 degrees cooler, even if price is no object


    thats just the biggest load of crap ive seen in a while, with a thinking like that, why not just run cooling on stock? its ONLY A FEW DEGREES COOLER. Reading skills goes a long way, the op clearly state he is looking for the >>"BEST"<< cooler, not the 3rd best, or the 4th best. the Megahalem is a no brainer as its a well known favorite on almost every review/tech site. as an enthusiast, when you are pushing those last few mhz, few degrees matter.
  13. wow what's with the attitude arterius? Besides pretty much any review I can find rate the noctua NH-D14 as better than the megahalem and that's with the stock fans. Want to spend more? You could even get a third fan for the NH-D14. Replacing the stock cooler can get more than 20 degrees taken off btw, I do consider that necessary
  14. arterius....op wanted the BEST cooler and im 100% sure that there are better coolers out there then the air coolers you guys are talking about. your reading skills arent 100% perfect either so dont bash people on thier opinion.
  15. i4yue said:
    arterius....op wanted the BEST cooler and im 100% sure that there are better coolers out there then the air coolers you guys are talking about. your reading skills arent 100% perfect either so dont bash people on thier opinion.


    RIGHT! you are just full of brilliant ideas arent you? absolutely we should bombard him with suggestions of peltiers, LN2 and phase change, and hope he knows how to set it up and deal with all sort of problems, for example, condensation and maintenance.
    you obviously need to stick your head out the cloud and realize that the OP is not experienced in this field and recommending something like that is just asking for trouble.
  16. are you assuming now that he knows nothing about computers and yet is trying to overclock that much?
  17. heh, overclocking from 2.8 to 3.6~3.8 is not much, im not much of an overclocker myself but i managed to OC from 3.2 to 4.3 on air without too much problems.

    in the end it really just comes down to quality of hardware and bumping voltage and hitting up the multiplier/bus speed till stable. however, if you are suggesting extreme cooling, that a whole other ballpark my friend.
  18. I agree with arterius2. I overclocked my 720BE from 2.8 to 3.6 without any issues. I had to throw some more volts it's way, but once I hit the sweet spot it's been stable since. 3.7 is max stable for the 720BE, some have got 3.8 but it's never 100% stable.
  19. arterius2 said:
    heh, overclocking from 2.8 to 3.6~3.8 is not much, im not much of an overclocker myself but i managed to OC from 3.2 to 4.3 on air without too much problems.

    in the end it really just comes down to quality of hardware and bumping voltage and hitting up the multiplier/bus speed till stable. however, if you are suggesting extreme cooling, that a whole other ballpark my friend.



    Yes i did not overclock till now.

    Can you please tell me the rig you used and the cooler.
  20. Best answer
    few things to want to make sure for OC:

    1. Good air flow, and SMART air flow - Heat rises, so you want to make sure your cold-air intakes are on the bottom, while the exhaust fans are near the top of the case.

    2. For the CPU heatsink fans (2 of them), ideally you want to set them up in push-pull configuration, with the pushing fan pushing air towards the pulling fan, and the pulling fan passing air to the case exhaust fans.

    3. If you only have one heatsink fan, always install the push fan.

    4.Thermal paste, you want to get the best; you want something like Arctic Silver 5 equivalent or better, sometimes a good thermal paste and a bad thermal paste can really determine how much you can overclock.

    5. Applying the thermal paste, wear a rubber glove, or wrap your finger in plastic bag, and smear the paste to cover the cpu, you want to make sure this layer is as thin as possible. thermal conductivity in metal-metal contact is better than any thermal paste can provide.

    6. seat the heatsink PROPERLY, read the instruction carefully.

    7. now that you got the basics, here are my specs

    Case: Silverstone Raven 2
    Case Fans: 3x 180mm Silverstone Fan @ 700-1000 RPM @ 100-125 CFM; 1x 120mm Scythe Slip Stream @ 1200 RPM @ 68 CFM
    Cooler: Prolimatech Megahalems Rev B. (/w AM3 Retention Kit)
    Cooler Fans: 2x 120mm Yate Loon @ 2400 RPM (max) @ 88 CFM (max)
    Thermal Paste: Arctic Silver 5
    CPU: AMD X6 1090T
    Mobo: Asus Crosshair IV Formula
  21. The MX-2 compound is better than Arctic Silver 5. When testing with my 720BE, I got 4C difference by using the MX-2.
  22. acer0169 said:
    The MX-2 compound is better than Arctic Silver 5. When testing with my 720BE, I got 4C difference by using the MX-2.

    did you let the AS5 cure for 200+ cycle hours?, AS5 gets better as it cures, and you must apply a even & thin coating for this stuff to work well (as opposed to a pea-sized blob in the middle of the heatsink)
  23. arterius2 said:
    few things to want to make sure for OC:

    1. Good air flow, and SMART air flow - Heat rises, so you want to make sure your cold-air intakes are on the bottom, while the exhaust fans are near the top of the case.

    2. For the CPU heatsink fans (2 of them), ideally you want to set them up in push-pull configuration, with the pushing fan pushing air towards the pulling fan, and the pulling fan passing air to the case exhaust fans.

    3. If you only have one heatsink fan, always install the push fan.

    4.Thermal paste, you want to get the best; you want Arctic Silver 5, sometimes a good thermal paste and a bad thermal paste can really determine how much you can overclock.

    5. Applying the thermal paste, wear a rubber glove, or wrap your finger in plastic bag, and smear the paste to cover the cpu, you want to make sure this layer is as thin as possible. thermal conductivity in metal-metal contact is better than any thermal paste can provide.

    6. seat the heatsink PROPERLY, read the instruction carefully.

    7. now that you got the basics, here are my specs

    Case: Silverstone Raven 2
    Case Fans: 3x 180mm Silverstone Fan @ 700-1000 RPM @ 100-125 CFM; 1x 120mm Scythe Slip Stream @ 1200 RPM @ 68 CFM
    Cooler: Prolimatech Megahalems Rev B. (/w AM3 Retention Kit)
    Cooler Fans: 2x 120mm Yate Loon @ 2400 RPM (max) @ 88 CFM (max)
    Thermal Paste: Arctic Silver 5
    CPU: AMD X6 1090T
    Mobo: Asus Crosshair IV Formula



    thank you
  24. arterius2 said:
    did you let the AS5 cure for 200+ cycle hours?, AS5 gets better as it cures, and you must apply a even & thin coating for this stuff to work well (as opposed to a pea-sized blob in the middle of the heatsink)


    I had the AS5 in my machine for seven months with a minimum of 10 hours each a day (work machine). I then reset the heatsink with some newly bought MX-2. The MX-2 is impressive at the start and dropped by 2-3C straight the way.. it also gets a little better as it cures over a few working days dropping temps now around 4-5C cooler. It's also been getting hotter and hotter in my room as spring is here so it's probably more than that.
    Overall the MX-2 has been a better paste.
  25. acer0169 said:
    I had the AS5 in my machine for seven months with a minimum of 10 hours each a day (work machine). I then reset the heatsink with some newly bought MX-2. The MX-2 is impressive at the start and dropped by 2-3C straight the way.. it also gets a little better as it cures over a few working days dropping temps now around 4-5C cooler. It's also been getting hotter and hotter in my room as spring is here so it's probably more than that.
    Overall the MX-2 has been a better paste.


    yes, after looking around im quite convinced that AS5 isnt the best stuff anymore, I've ordered bunch of different TIMs to test around myself
  26. Best answer selected by ruffandruff.
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