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Just overclocked my i5-750 - how does this look? (Need some help.)

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May 20, 2010 10:38:35 PM

I am on my second build. Here it is:

Cooler Master HAF 932
Corsair CMPSU-750TX
ASUS P7P55D-E LX
Intel Core i5
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus w/ 2 fans
XFX Radeon 5870
Corsair XMS3 1333/9 RAM (1.5v)
Windows 7 Pro 64

Since this is my first real attempt at overclocking, I'm wondering how these numbers look to everyone. The Core Temp screen was taken after running Prime95 for about half an hour. I plan on leaving it on overnight.

I'm wondering how the temperatures look considering that I have a clean HAF 932 and a Hyper 212 Plus with two fans: one intake, one exhaust, right next to my case's exhaust fan. I was unsure of myself when I applied the Arctic Silver 5... One vertical line on the CPU and then it moved around (naturally) when I was installing the heatsink. I heard that I should do a dot, or maybe the razor blade method.

The idle temps are below 40C for all four cores.

I did not touch the voltages, but set it to auto. Strangely enough, without touching my RAM, CPU-Z is giving me a reading of 8 for the CAS latency, down from 9. It was between a 1000-something RAM speed and 1444, so I set it to the lower speed. I'd like to bring it up to 1444 but I'm wondering what I should be expecting and what I should do. Should I not touch the voltage and just set it to auto, as my CPU is running just fine with this method? Load-line calibration is enabled. Should I just set it to 1444 and not worry about it? My RAM is pretty low in voltage, anyway--1.5V.

I could not find the Turbo Boost option after I set the CPU screen to manual... Maybe it was disabled by default since I am overclocking? I'd like to disable it (and from what I read, I have to disable it).

More about : overclocked 750

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a c 100 K Overclocking
May 20, 2010 11:02:13 PM

Those temps are too high. It should be quite a bit less. I know this pic is of a GPU test, but I kept HWMonitor open from the CPU burn test I just did, and you can see in the Furmark result that my CPU is at 3.6ghz.


EDIT: I should mention that a) I set my own voltages. HWMonitor shows 1.18V Vcore, and yours is a good deal over that. I also have all the enhanced states and turbo active (EIST, C1E, C States). I also lapped my CPU and HS, but that only helps for a few degrees. I'd say first try reapplying your HS and see if the temps are better, and second try setting your own voltages.
May 20, 2010 11:06:34 PM

Thank you for the reply.

What kind of case and cooler do you have?

Also, would you be able to do a CPU test for five minutes and post your temperatures?
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a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
May 21, 2010 2:39:16 AM

AUTO is NOT a good thing when OCing, you have just given up control to your MB, and your MB likes to overvolt. Set the voltages manually so you can take back control of your OC. Your MB and cpu will thank you.
May 21, 2010 4:14:12 AM

Thanks for those replies. I will try a few manual settings next week. The problem is that I don't really know what a good voltage is for either the CPU or the RAM... I've reading conflicting things.

I set my BIOS to default and am getting this now:



I'm assuming that the voltages and clocks are so low because it is idling in power-saving mode. I loaded up a few games and they are running just fine.

The temperatures seem a bit high to me for my setup. I see around 22-32C at idle and 51C at load in Prime95 (at stock ~2.67 clocks with TurboBoost), though usually around ~46C at load. With a HAF 932 and a Hyper 212 Plus with two fans, I think I should be seeing lower temperatures.

How much of an improvement would I see with properly-applied Arctic Silver 5, if I did in fact apply it improperly?
a b à CPUs
a c 100 K Overclocking
May 21, 2010 2:43:05 PM

My case is an Antec 900 II, it has 2 front intakes, a large fan on top, and another at the back plus openings in the side for an extra fan so my case temps are always at ambient. My cooler is a Zalman CNPS10X Extreme. Not the highest rated, but as you can see it's doing a good job.

I really think you could lower your temps at least 5C by just making sure the HS is really well attached. It's really not that difficult to do, I reattached mine probably 10 times now to see if I can get it just right, and everytime the core temps changed a little. Sometimes Core 3 was lowest, sometimes Core 4. Granted, I did lapping, but even without additional lapping I got the difference in highest to lowest core temps from 7C to 4/5C. I'd say just give it a shot, make sure you prefill the gaps between the heat pipes and also that you screw it down evenly not just one screw at a time.
May 21, 2010 8:25:35 PM

wolfram23 said:
My case is an Antec 900 II, it has 2 front intakes, a large fan on top, and another at the back plus openings in the side for an extra fan so my case temps are always at ambient. My cooler is a Zalman CNPS10X Extreme. Not the highest rated, but as you can see it's doing a good job.

I really think you could lower your temps at least 5C by just making sure the HS is really well attached. It's really not that difficult to do, I reattached mine probably 10 times now to see if I can get it just right, and everytime the core temps changed a little. Sometimes Core 3 was lowest, sometimes Core 4. Granted, I did lapping, but even without additional lapping I got the difference in highest to lowest core temps from 7C to 4/5C. I'd say just give it a shot, make sure you prefill the gaps between the heat pipes and also that you screw it down evenly not just one screw at a time.


Thanks. I thought that it may not have been too securely attached--when I apply some pressure, I can turn the heatsink just a little bit with the screws on. I will reapply the paste and make sure to secure it properly. Too bad I will have to take the motherboard out to do it (nuts on the back).
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a c 100 K Overclocking
May 21, 2010 8:47:06 PM

booseek said:
Thanks. I thought that it may not have been too securely attached--when I apply some pressure, I can turn the heatsink just a little bit with the screws on. I will reapply the paste and make sure to secure it properly. Too bad I will have to take the motherboard out to do it (nuts on the back).


Ah that's a pain. The first time I took the HS off, I removed the mobo, but then I learned that I didn't need to afterall. I guess it depends on the mounting, but for mine I just need to remove the fan and then I can get at the 4 screws from above, removing them allows to take the HS off. So I just have to remove the RAM and my GPU, then I can do it. Really makes it a lot faster and easier.
May 25, 2010 1:09:06 AM

wolfram23 said:
Ah that's a pain. The first time I took the HS off, I removed the mobo, but then I learned that I didn't need to afterall. I guess it depends on the mounting, but for mine I just need to remove the fan and then I can get at the 4 screws from above, removing them allows to take the HS off. So I just have to remove the RAM and my GPU, then I can do it. Really makes it a lot faster and easier.


I don't ordinarily need to take out the motherboard, but to tighten the nuts in the back, the case's motherboard plate's opening is not large enough to accommodate all four screws of the Hyper 212 Plus.

I actually applied more paste using the razor blade method specific to coolers like the Hyper 212 Plus. But my temperatures dropped perhaps one or two degrees, or it may just be my imagination.

After screwing in the heatsink again, it no longer rotates, but I do not have it screwed in all the way. Should I screw it in with a medium-sized screwdriver until I feel real resistance? Or is that too much pressure on the CPU?
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a c 100 K Overclocking
May 25, 2010 2:35:14 PM

booseek said:
I don't ordinarily need to take out the motherboard, but to tighten the nuts in the back, the case's motherboard plate's opening is not large enough to accommodate all four screws of the Hyper 212 Plus.

I actually applied more paste using the razor blade method specific to coolers like the Hyper 212 Plus. But my temperatures dropped perhaps one or two degrees, or it may just be my imagination.

After screwing in the heatsink again, it no longer rotates, but I do not have it screwed in all the way. Should I screw it in with a medium-sized screwdriver until I feel real resistance? Or is that too much pressure on the CPU?


You want to screw it in pretty hard. Not so hard that you have to really push down on the screwdriver, but get it tight.
Anonymous
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
May 25, 2010 2:40:22 PM

Guys i wanted to know if 1,225v with my i5 750 wont take away a low of it´s lifesapwn!
@3,6ghz
Regards
a b à CPUs
a c 100 K Overclocking
May 25, 2010 2:44:50 PM

Quote:
Guys i wanted to know if 1,225v with my i5 750 wont take away a low of it´s lifesapwn!
@3,6ghz
Regards


Is that Vcore? Then no that's fine, the max is 1.55V
If that's Vtt, then yes you're over the max which is 1.21V
May 25, 2010 8:27:29 PM

I tightened the heatsink and see a 2C temperature drop since this morning under load. These are my temps at stock settings:

Idle:
1203.8 MHz
vCORE = 0.85 V
24-26C

Prime95 Full Load:
2808.7 MHz (Turbo Boost)
VCORE = 1.10V
49C Core #0; 43C Core #3

Taken with Core Temp.

Still seems a bit high to me with two fans on the Hyper 212+ and a clean HAF 932.
Anonymous
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a b K Overclocking
May 27, 2010 1:04:26 PM

those temps are fine... i have 47 IDLE 73 LOAD

And yes 1,22v it´s my Vcore :D  (3,6GHZ)
Scythe yasya

Regards
a b à CPUs
a c 100 K Overclocking
May 27, 2010 2:16:25 PM

I've read that Intel purposely makes Core 0 have a slightly different tmax, so that it reads a little higher than the rest so that it will throttle the CPU a little bit early if temps are getting too high. Some people have suggested as high as 5C too high, which I can believe since my temps vary from Core 0's highest to Core 3's lowest by 5C, while Cores 1, 2, 3 are within 2C.
!