There isn't much that you can do to slow it down at POST, but the prompt that informs you to press Ctrl+I to access the Intel Matrix Storage configuration stays long enough to not to miss it (when the ICH10 is configured for RAID). Other than that, you could probably press <Pause> to stop on each screen. Most people usually want their system to POST faster.
bilbat, isn't that because turning on the RAID controller, ie installing its software, tends to mess up the existing system partition or drive usability on the non-RAID drive? This is similar to the problem of changing BIOS from IDE mode to ACHI mode for SATA drives?
There's two problems; one, obviously, is the need for drivers to properly 'see' the new drive geometry that comes along with RAID. You can switch a drive to AHCI without dumping it - I know because I tested. The second is that the process of building the RAID necessarily destroys whatever was on the drives in the process. My understanding is that there are 'native' AHCI drivers in Vista (which would mead, by extension, in Win7 as well) but I've never tried that - I just religiously (or superstitiously - take your pick) load up the pre-install drivers (RAID for my ICH, AHCI for my jMicron) every install... No matter which way you're going, the important thing is to have a backup of any critical data. I really recommend keeping data on a separate drive from the OS - it makes life so much simpler; I run my OSs and swaps on two pair of RAID0 VelociRaptors, and keep my data on a third pair of RAID1 (redundant) WD RE3s - and I still back up the RAID1 to a SG 1.5T periodically - belt, suspenders, and safety-pin!
Heck, all this fascination with RAID setups has me tempted. I've got a Silicon Image RAID IDE controller that I have always used just to drive additional non-RAID IDE drives - even before being limited by newer M/B with 1 IDE header. And I've got a pair of WD 100GB IDE drives. Maybe I'll try setting them up as RAID, then using as my Data drive.
Of course, then I lose all the nice speed of my new Caviar Black 1TB drive. Sigh....
I didn't realise that i would need to reinstall my OS if i was trying to build the raid config on a 2nd and 3rd HDD and leave my primary HDD as a non member disk. I thought you only needed to reinstall if you were effectively setting up your OS as install as a RAID disk...
Its no problem to do the reinstall - i just thought there would be a way to avoid it. If anyone else has a setup post install that raids a 2nd and 3rd HDD as RAID1 i would be very interested in how you got it to work.
However it looks like i will have to raid my OS disk to get it to work in the meantime. thx again guys for the responses.
Remember how when you boot the Win CD to install it, the first thing you see is a question about pressing F6 to install RAID drivers, then you see all the SCSI drivers load? That's the step we're talking about on a fresh install.
In addition, there's the related issue of the BIOS complementing RAID on SATA drives by using or not using AHCI mode to address them. That's usually how you get the BSOD - by changing the SATA mode in BIOS from IDE to AHCI. This article by Wiki used to have lots of info on this, but has been modified to stick more to the definition of AHCI. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Host_Controller_I...
This discussion page has much of the original trouble-shooting info. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Advanced_Host_Control...
(Remember, Wiki can change overnight, as this article has.)
So, if you're ONLY going to set up a couple of drives to RAID, without changing AHCI, I don't believe you have to re-install the OS. But I'm going here by what I read, not what I've tried.
Could someone post a link as to exactly which drivers to use when installing Windows with this (EP45-UD3P) motherboard? From Intel? Gigabyte?
I thought I had the right ones and tried to Slipstream XP w/nLite, but I still get BSOD when trying to install XP. I even tried again with the latest "driver pack" I could find, but that was from early this year, maybe not recent enough?
Hey thanks, do you think it's important to upgrade my BIOS (it's F7 currently).
Dunno what to tell you there... Here's the basic situation: Intel released new BIOS code for the ICHxR family around six months or so ago; GB implemented this code in large numbers of BIOS releases for various boards, but hardly ever took care of documenting it in the BIOS' 'changelogs'. This is part of my main complaint about GB - they chase too many niches with too many products (the other day I counted a hundred and twenty five socket 775 boards alone!) to do a decent job of supporting any, much less all of them - another example of letting marketing (or, even worse, 'money-shuffling') people run a basically engineering driven operation. The only hope I've seen in the government financed, 'handed to the UAW', 'broke car company' situation, is that the Fiat guy who took over Chrysler shut down the 'executive suites', and moved everybody's ass down to the engineering floor, where they all belong - that's where the driving work gets done! So, anyhow, if the newer BIOS actually has the improved Intel block - it's well worth having; it's faster, and its 'repair' time has sped up significantly - but there's no way, outside of loading it, to tell. My policy is to DL every BIOS version and save 'em all - sometimes one that seems to work for me will simply 'disappear', never to be seen again - that way, if you see instability, or other problems, it's simple to 'take a step back', to the last one that worked well for you...
bilbat - a policy I've followed for many, many years. I've watched so many people suffer by being forced to use a "final" upgrade that had bugs, while I've been using the version before with all the goodies, but no bugs. For example, my \Master\Browser folder has 24 versions of Netscape, from 16-bit 3.01 to the final 9.006. Got 17 versions of Yahoo Messenger - and shared those many times when Yahoo releases new ones. They never allow you to choose older versions on their site, almost impossible to get a "full" version instead of active downloader.
I also turn off ALL automatic updates. The only software that gets to play with my installed copy between full versions is anti-virus - and then only with manual updates. Even McAfee has changed their every 10 days annoying messages to every 5 days - thanks to an update I was forced to make when installing on new Win format.