Thermalright TRUE or Noctua NH-U12P or CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ ???

[KliCK]

I am really confused between these 3 coolers which one to buy


The Hyper 212+ Cost abt Rs 1950 ie $40 approx and TRUE abt Rs 3400 ie $65 or Noctua NH-U12P SE2 120mm SSO CPU Cooler (with 2 fans) for Rs 3900 ie $80 approx

What is the max OC i can achieve??

and which cooler to buy if i can afford both and is TRUE as well as Noctua really worth it and whats ur take on this

Should i choose Cheaper Hyper 212+ or Expensive TRUE or Noctua



My Config is

Core i7 920 2.66Ghz
EVGA X-58 LE Motherboard
XFX Black Edition 850W Modular
G Skill Tri Channel 6GB 1600MHz
2x Sapphire 5870 in Crossfire Mode
1TB WD Black Caviar
Cooler Master HAF 922

 

[Crashman]

I am really confused between these 3 coolers which one to buy


The Hyper 212+ Cost abt Rs 1950 ie $40 approx and TRUE abt Rs 3400 ie $65 or Noctua NH-U12P SE2 120mm SSO CPU Cooler (with 2 fans) for Rs 3900 ie $80 approx

What is the max OC i can achieve??

and which cooler to buy if i can afford both and is TRUE as well as Noctua really worth it and whats ur take on this

Should i choose Cheaper Hyper 212+ or Expensive TRUE or Noctua



My Config is

Core i7 920 2.66Ghz
EVGA X-58 LE Motherboard
XFX Black Edition 850W Modular
G Skill Tri Channel 6GB 1600MHz
2x Sapphire 5870 in Crossfire Mode
1TB WD Black Caviar
Cooler Master HAF 922

I'd probably go with the True because of its good performance for its size. But I might not go for maximum overclock. I suggest using 1.35V and seeing how far you can push it. You won't run out of cooling at 1.35V and your CPU will last longer while consuming far less energy than it would if you were to try maxing it out.

 

[acer0169]

I'm pretty certain the megahalems would beat all three of them coolers.

 

[duk3]

I'm pretty certain that the megahalems weren't on the list to choose from.
But if you can get the megahalems, than yes they would beat all three of the coolers.

 

[abswindows7]

The question is what max oc you can reach, we need to know what is your stepping.
3.6-3.8ghz max without ht ... with any air cooler if you are c0
d0 I heard ppl on air with 4.2ghz

 

[Crashman]

The question is what max oc you can reach, we need to know what is your stepping.
3.6-3.8ghz max without ht ... with any air cooler if you are c0
d0 I heard ppl on air with 4.2ghz

Exactly. In other words, you can't determine your overclock based on stepping. I've had C0's go to 4.3 GHz using big air, and D0's that had a hard time reaching 4.0 GHz. Check out "all" of the System Builder Marathons to see the wide variety of overclocks achieved with both steppings.

 

[abswindows7]

Well it helps at least xD My friend has c0 stepping and can't go above 3.8ghz without any vcore bump that would pass intel recommandation.

I'd say it depends on the chip itself.
i.e. Take 2 brand new ferrari and drag them ... 1 will beat the other. Even if a computer would manipulate perfectly the cars.

c0 or d0, there is no anwser, I heard d0 were better at overclocking, now you just told me I'm wrong. You need to test KliCK so I'd recommand taking megahalems or a TRUE with push/pull config as I had on my e5200 and got it above 4ghz (50%+ overclock) but with a ridiculous amount of vcore (the chip fried withing 5 month) but it cost peanuts to buy it back xD
Don't fry your i7 you'll cry !

 

[Crashman]

Well it helps at least xD My friend has c0 stepping and can't go above 3.8ghz without any vcore bump that would pass intel recommandation.

I'd say it depends on the chip itself.
i.e. Take 2 brand new ferrari and drag them ... 1 will beat the other. Even if a computer would manipulate perfectly the cars.

c0 or d0, there is no anwser, I heard d0 were better at overclocking, now you just told me I'm wrong. You need to test KliCK so I'd recommand taking megahalems or a TRUE with push/pull config as I had on my e5200 and got it above 4ghz (50%+ overclock) but with a ridiculous amount of vcore (the chip fried withing 5 month) but it cost peanuts to buy it back xD
Don't fry your i7 you'll cry !

You're more likely to get a CPU that hits 4.0 GHz or more at 1.35V with the D0. But more likely isn't a guarantee. You're also more likely to exceed your thermal limits at anything above 1.35V with the D0...but again more likely isn't a guarantee. If I had a choice I'd pick the D0 for its different risk profile, but the risks aren't really much less just slightly different.

 

[abswindows7]

I agree with you ^^

D0 is more recent too. The new i7 930 is D0 stepping. Thermal limit is the real point here in overclocking, proving the fact that the best cooler you get, the better you can overlclock. Look at those benchmark made with liquid azote with ridiculous amount of vcore xD !!! Again, not all the same chip will reach the same level !

 

[Crashman]

I agree with you ^^

D0 is more recent too. The new i7 930 is D0 stepping. Thermal limit is the real point here in overclocking, proving the fact that the best cooler you get, the better you can overlclock. Look at those benchmark made with liquid azote with ridiculous amount of vcore xD !!! Again, not all the same chip will reach the same level !

Right, the real reason I prefer the D0 is that I'm more likely to hit 4GHz or more at 1.35V or less. But I still get CPU's that won't do it. As for the C0, I'm just as likely to hit 4GHz, but I often need more voltage. But unlike the stuff I said about thermal limits, the real reason I want to run at 1.35V or less is to reduce the rate of circuit erosion.

I can support a C0 at 1.45V using air cooling, I just don't want to use 1.45V. It's been harder for me to cool D0 at 1.45V, but that isn't very important when one isn't planning to use more than 1.35V.

 

[KliCK]

mine is a D0

btw will my motherboard support true as i think there is too less space for it

this is ma mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188049

so i am going with a TRUE Black

and its easy to remove the Stock cooler and install this or should i use professional for this

 

[Crashman]

mine is a D0

btw will my motherboard support true as i think there is too less space for it

this is ma mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188049

so i am going with a TRUE Black

and its easy to remove the Stock cooler and install this or should i use professional for this

I think the TRUE will fit if you have only three memory modules, or the modules you're using are short enough to fit under the fan. Either of those should assure it fits in the normal orientation, which is with the fan on the front blowing towards the back.

 

[KliCK]

these are the ones

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231225

 

[Crashman]

these are the ones

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231225

Great, you get both solutions. Three modules clear because the first slot is empty. And the modules are short enough that if you used six, you could overlap the fan over the first module.

 

[MCchum]

I am using this CPU cooler

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835109022

ben using it since Dec.09 ,, cpu i7 920 @ 3.8g , no heat problem at all . been running that since installed cooler.

I game on a regular base's , (everynite ) MW2 , crysis , bfbc2 , with no problems at all with heat . most I have seen is 41C

case is CM HAF 932
on the cpu cooler , i mounted the fan on the bottomside blowing up to the top outfan , this also, made all mem slots easy to access .

hope this helps ya
GL HF on ur build

 

[abswindows7]

If you take a TRUE go for a push pull config : 1 fan that sucks the air in and the other one that shuffle it out. Otherwise the performence won't be as good as a one fan config.

Anyways above 3.6ghz you won't see much fps gain.

 

[KliCK]

thnx all i went with TRUE

now waiting for it to be delivered

 

[abswindows7]

You may now choose your best anwser Klick