Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

New Corsair H50 push/pull set up-no temp changes

Last response: in Overclocking
Share
July 9, 2010 6:32:01 PM

I just installed two Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm fans on my Antec 900/Corsair H50 set up. Before I installed the fans I was receiving 78c temps on prime95.

I installed the two fans in a push/pull settings on intake like ->lRl-> . I stress tested and received roughly the same temperatures as I did with one stock fan (80c peak). I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here. I am going to try and switch to an exhaust mode but I have a few questions first.

I have the pump connected to CHA_FAN2. The first outermost fan to CPU_FAN, and the second inner fan on CHA_FAN1. The pump and first fan are running at roughly 1800rpm +/- 50rpms. The second fan is running at around 1400 rpm. Q Fan control is off. So I'm not sure why CHA_FAN1 is running at 1400 rpm or if that is the maximum speed it can run at? I'd like to have the fans at the same speed without having to make a $3 newegg purchase to order a Y connector. Is there any other way I can avoid using a Y connector or are the generally available at places like radio shack?

Would it help to put the pump on the Cpu fan connector and the two fans on the chassis connectors? CHA_FAN1 is a 3pin while FAN2 and CPU_FAN are 4 pin. Would that make a difference? Would a molex connection help?

Also I'm only using two screws on each fan for now as I just transferred the screws that came with the H50. I need to go to my local hardware store for similar screws so I can secure the fans better. I also was going to duck tape the fans/radiator to secure pressure once I have it set up how I need it.

The computer is located under a large desk with 1.5ft headroom and a 3ft clearance behind the tower. The computer does have access to somewhat fresh air. There is no wall blocking the back of the case or anything.

Any help would be appreciated. I know I should just experiment myself, but as this is my first computer build I'm a little nervous of f'ing something up. Although I'm not sure what damage I could do at this stage. :ange: 
July 9, 2010 11:51:06 PM

the different in fan speeds is causing turbulence between the fans and not pushing as much as tho as u could. swich the fans to run from molex and it will be sorted
m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
July 10, 2010 12:00:05 AM

I would double check what is connected where,and you're readings.
I haven't seen or heard of an H50 pump running at 1800 RPM's , they do run at around 1400 or so.
m
0
l
July 10, 2010 12:49:38 AM

> I installed the two fans in a push/pull settings on intake like ->lRl-> .

Not sure what you mean: what does Corsair recommend?

I believe they want the fan(s) to blow IN towards the front
of the chassis, so that the radiator is washed by relatively cooler
air from outside the rear of the chassis. However, in that
orientation, the exhaust air will then enter the chassis interior,
and you must also have a separate exhaust fan to expel that
warm air -- somehow.

There's a really good installation video here with Corsair's Jeff Checchi:

http://www.corsair.com/products/h50/default.aspx

How to install the Corsair Cooling™ Hydro Series H50 CPU cooler


And, the fan on Corsair's H50 uses a 4-pin connector,
which implies that it should plug into the CPU fan connector --
i.e. to control fan rpm. Note that the speed of that Corsair fan
is 1700 rpm!!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


> I have the pump connected to CHA_FAN2.
> Would it help to put the pump on the Cpu fan connector?

I doubt it. You want a constant and maximum amperage
flowing into that pump at all times. This is what
the expert, Corsair's Jeff Checchi, also recommends,
near the very end of that installation video (see above).


> two Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm fans

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

These use a 3-pin connector (see photos), but
they are rated at a fixed 800 rpm. This speed
is less than half of the speed of the Corsair factory fan
that comes with the H50.

As already suggested above, it would be ideal to
purchase a Y cable and connect both to a 4-pin Molex
connector from your power supply: that should
guarantee the same amperage to each fan
and thus produce approximately the same rpm.

But, if I were you, I'd switch to an identical pair
of 120mm fans that have higher rpm and a 3-speed switch,
or a variable switch. There are lots to choose from
e.g. we use the Antec 120mm fans with 3-speed switch:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Note the rpm and CFM differences of this Antec fan:
1200 / 1600 / 2000 RPM <--- !!!
39 / 56 / 79 CFM

And, be sure you have a separate exhaust fan,
if your 2 x 120mm fans on the Corsair radiator
are blowing IN. For your setup, best place
for such an exhaust fan is the top panel.

And, lastly, you might experiment by reversing
the direction of those 2 x 120mm fans: this setup
will require that your chassis interior is being
fed cooler external air, e.g. via fan(s) in the
lower front and/or bottom panel and/or left-side panel.


In general, air should flow from front to rear,
and from bottom to top: because hot air rises
and cold air falls.


I hope this helps.


MRFS

m
0
l
July 11, 2010 7:41:37 PM

Thanks for the detailed post MRFS.

I'll try more of your recommendations when I get home from work. I'm positive the pump is running at 1800 rpm and is connected to where the Corsair video recommends. But I guess I need to switch from CHA_FAN2 to CPU_FAN.

And if I switch to molex I still need a Y connector? What speeds would a molex connection run at?

I tried switching the two push/pull fans to exhaust and I received no difference in temperature. It may have been 1-2c higher. Although immediately after switching to exhaust I turned the computer on with the side panel off. I stress tested and the computer was reading low 60s! This got me really excited so I powered down, put the panel back on, and took the computer to the room where it normally sits to do a full stress test. I turned on Prime95 again and I was receiving the same old high 70s temps. :pfff: 

I'm not sure what happened to have such low temperatures. I tried everything to get it back there such as switching side panel fan direction, testing with panel on and off, putting it back in the room where I generally work on it and nothing got it back that low. I figured that the room where I do repairs on it is around 8 degrees cooler than my main room that that should make a significant change in temperatures. But I tried all different positions in both rooms and it made absolutely no difference.

My fan set up on the Antec is as follows: Two front fans on intake. Side panel is now on exhaust. Large fan on top which is exhaust. Push/pull Scythe fans on intake. So front and back are sucking cool air in and side and top are pushing it out. I put the side panel on exhaust because my video card nearly cuts the case in half, and that fan is right over the position of the gtx 480. I thought it would be good to get better air flow by sucking air out where that massive hunk is sitting.

Everyone speaks so highly of the H50 but after reading the amount of issues people receive and the varying temperatures they get, I really don't think it was worth the money. I'm considering doing an air conditioning system or just new heatsink in general.
m
0
l
July 11, 2010 8:44:37 PM

> But I guess I need to switch from CHA_FAN2 to CPU_FAN.

No. I think you need to mount fans with higher rpm on the H50 radiator.


Repeating:

> I have the pump connected to CHA_FAN2.
> Would it help to put the pump on the Cpu fan connector?

I doubt it. You want a constant and maximum amperage
flowing into that pump at all times. This is what
the expert, Corsair's Jeff Checchi, also recommends,
near the very end of that installation video (see above).


MRFS
m
0
l
July 11, 2010 10:20:30 PM

FYI: I took a closer look at your Antec 900 here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Note well that the warmer exhaust air from your PSU
is probably rising up the rear panel, and being sucked
into the radiator because of the orientation of the
2 x 120mm fans mounted on your H50's radiator.

Here's what I would do with your setup:

(1) switch to two faster spinning 120mm fans on the H50's radiator,
preferably fans with a 3-speed switch or variable pot (potentiometer);
wire both of those fans to the same 4-pin Molex connector from your PSU,
using a standard Y-adapter, so they get the same DC current;

(2) reverse them so they both exhaust towards the rear,
not towards the front (i.e. towards the case interior):
<--lRl<--

(3) reverse the fan in the left-side panel to blow IN;
if necessary, install an intake fan there with a 3-speed switch
or variable pot, and begin with the switch set to HIGH;

(4) make sure the fan in the top panel is blowing UP;
if variable, set to HIGH;

(5) make sure the fans in the front panel are blowing IN;
if variable, set to HIGH;

(6) use an empty 5.25" drive bay to install more intake fans there e.g.
like this one, blowing directly towards your H50's radiator:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

(7) consider as an additional option a fan that blows directly
at the heatsink on your video card e.g.:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Some of these intake air from outside the rear panel:
you can't have everything in this world :) 


I realize these ideas go against Corsair's recommended orientation.

However, your PSU is definitely exhausting warmer air that will be
captured by the 2 x 120mm intake fans you have mounted on your
H50's radiator, as that warmer air rises naturally -- because
hot air rises / cold air falls.

A more efficient PSU will result in less wasted heat
being exhausted out the rear and rising upwards.


(I hope this helps.)


MRFS
m
0
l
July 11, 2010 11:06:11 PM

We've also had success with this Vantec fan for a 5.25" drive bay
(the heading is a little misleading: the 3.5" spec refers to the
size of the HDD that fits between 2 brackets):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
(see Image Viewer for those 2 brackets)


Without installing a HDD, this is still a good variable fan
for installing in an empty 5.25" drive bay.

We had to play around with the fastener screws,
because the standard way caused those screws
to impinge on the standard width of our 5.25" drive bay:

the solution was to install the unit first, then to insert
the screws through the 5.25" bay sides, finally reaching
the bracket assembly.


MRFS
m
0
l
!