GA-P35-DQ6 idle 60C/140F load up to 92C/198F temperature

I got some problem now with my GA-P35-DQ6 motherboard where it idles at 60C(140F) and goes up to 92C(198F). Also at the same time my Core 2 Duo E6850 (not overclocked) temperature is 50C(122F) or so and rises to around 83C(181F). Originally for the CPU I'd have thought that there'd be a problem with the thermal paste or positioning of the HSF (which is stock) and it still could be, however I have no idea why my motherboard goes up to 92C or so considering my case has the same nice airflow that it always has had and the case fans are all running at the same speed.

Both my motherboard and CPU always used to be around 20-30C (68-86F) and I have no idea why the temperature is so high especially for the motherboard. There is no dust on the motherboard either. It is around 2 years old. This is all occuring in a room with the ambient temperature of 12-15C too. PC hasn't automatically shutdown due to these temperatures either. Anyone know any possible reasons why and how to fix the problem?
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More about idle 140f load 198f temperature
  1. It is conceivable that the sensor has simply taken a dump, though they usually read too low, rather than too high when they die... Are you using the same piece of s'ware to read it that you always have? Which one? Tried a few?

    If you want the thermal 'throttling' to work, you need to enable it on the "Advanced BIOS Features" page, and set a 'trigger' temperature...
  2. Yeah I've used Everest as I always have and HWMonitor from the guys (CPUID) that made CPU-Z. Also the BIOS shows both the CPU and Mobo at high temperatures, as for the CPU it could be that I need to redo the thermal paste afterall, but why would the motherboard temperature be so high? Could the sensor for the motherboard be close to the CPU therefore it is shown as high itself too?
  3. I think, on the 'd' series MOBOs, there is one sensor underneath the CPU socket, and one near the back end of the first PCIe slot - no one knows for absolutely certain, as we've been unable to get GB support to comment on it... A really good paste application is usually only important if you're running a balls-to-the wall OC; look at it this way - it'll work with the (useless) stock cooler! I use water cooling, and push it pretty far, so I've been finicky - I actually used a couple thick slabs of plexiglas, and did several 'test applies', before screwing in my waterblock. I also use TIM consultants' paste - it's 'thixotropic', meaning that it becomes less viscous (and therefore, gives a better 'spread') when it's in shear - in other words, twisting the HS as you seat it makes it 'flow out' to get a really good thermal interface...
  4. ahh, I'll probably be using arctiv silver thermal paste. Just to be sure though, if the case has good airflow along with a lack of dust, how could the motherboard even get that temperature of 92c/198F?
  5. Silver is good - I use it on MOSFETs 'cause if you slop a little (which, to get a small enough 'blob' for a MOSFET, you're gonna do) it's non-conductive, & won't hurt anything. Again - could just be a bad sensor. Have you touched the bottom of the HSF? To quote lsdmeasap at TweakTown: "During the next set of tests we need to employ the highly sensitve thermal probe located on the end of your hand. You have 10 of them so if one gets damaged its of no concern, to me :p."
  6. been quite busy last 2 weeks or so, but yeah i've tested it it actually seemed quite hot, and finally am gonna apply new paste hopefully it makes a diff...or i'll probably even get a new HSF.
  7. A repost from elsewhere:
    I usually recommend that you remove the motherboard to install the HSF; you need to see the pin backs to check if they're all properly locked, and that none are cracked or broken. I have had numerous people swear to me here that they're sure they did the HSF install correctly, and then sheepishly come back to report either a pin loose, unlocked, or cracked... It's not inattention or incompetence, either - there seems to be a contest going on (but I think Intel's system wins hands down with their really crappy 'stock' 775 piece) to see who can design the worst, most impractical way to attach a heatsink! Another point to be made is procedure: it's usually easier to 'work your way' around the chip, but, for the best results, you want to do a pair of diagonally opposed pins first, and then finish up with the other two...
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