EDIT: MUST PURCHASE IN 30 MINUTES. EXTREMELY URGENT.

WantsToUpgrade

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I'm new to the site, and am starting to wander around the various articles.

I need a new desktop computer, and would love to build one. I guess I'm looking for something in between the $1250 and $2500 SBM builds. I'd like the computer to be 'relevant' for several years, and would like something top of the line now. I don't have a fixed budget, but I'm picturing something $1500-$2000-ish should do it. If there's a good reason for going over $2000, I'd probably be ok with that. I have no preference AMD/Intel. Application wise, I'm a programmer, designer, and a multi-tasker (I'm all about the software, but I'm clueless for hardware details). I'll use the pc mostly for coding and media. TV-tuner, video editing, music, etc. I need the full works: printer/scanner, monitor, etc. I haven't really looked into it, but if there's wanting to look into getting mac's leopard to dual boot (only for iphone app writing), then that's something to consider. I know I need to start with picking a cpu/processor, but I'm kinda at a loss in terms of figuring out what is best for me.

I'm just looking for any suggestions at all. Thanks,
 

xthekidx

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Go for something like this:
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=12200668
I have 2 300GB Velociraptors in there to run in Raid 0 for super speed, but it isn't necessary and you could just get the 1TB drive and be well within your budget after the $50 MIR from the PSU and GFX card, as well as have an awesome system. You can combo the Mobo and CPU for $30 off too. You could then OC your i7 with that cooler and get a very fast high end system. i7 is the way to go for a top of the line build right now. That PSU will allow for you to get another GTX 295 down the road to run in SLI, if you just wanted to stay with one graphics card, then look at the Corsair 750tx or the PC Power&Cooling 750w silencer.

You are looking at $1937 if you drop the velociraptors and after the combo and MIR. If you drop the PSU to the 750w, you knock about $130 more off, but close the door to adding another graphics card down the road.
 

Akebono 98

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Here are a few suggestions to help get you get started in your build:

CPU: Intel i7 920 (overclock this to 3.8-4.0 GHz)

Mobo: Asus P6T Deluxe V2 (best all-round solution)

RAM: Mushkin DDR3-1600

Heatsink: Scythe Mugen 2 (good value here)

Thermal Paste: Arctic Cooling MX-2

HDD: WD Caviar Black 1TB (best overall drive, you'll probably need the capacity for your applications, could consider various RAID options with this)

Monitor: Samsung T240 (excellent quality and esthetically pleasing for a work rig)


Have a read of Proximon's guide that is stickied at the top of this forum--it's very helpful.
 

xthekidx

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Will you be gaming much at all? I assumed you were, but if that isn't a huge interest to you, then you can go with a GTX 260 (or cheaper like HD 4830) and put the money saved towards a TV tuner (~$80), Mouse/keyboard (~100), printer (~100), and a monitor (~160)

Acer monitor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009126
TV tuner
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815293003
MX518 Mouse
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104178
Logitech keyboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126009
 

Akebono 98

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Regarding monitor recommendations, I probably should have recommended the Samsung T240HD over the T240, as the HD version has a built-in TV tuner.
 

WantsToUpgrade

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Thanks for the suggestions so far! Nah, I don't really do any gaming. I usually just have about 15-20 things open like photoshop, premiere, dreamweaver, music, burning dvds, etc. Though now I'm just going to open a ton of browser tabs for the parts suggested. *tends to over research*

Ideally, I'd like everything to come in under $2000, printer, monitor, keyboard, mouse, tv tuner, computer parts, os, everything.
 

WantsToUpgrade

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I did a search for those, and it seems there's a few different brands that match. Also I'm gonna nix the HD monitor, because you can't do any recording with the built-in tv tuner.
 

Akebono 98

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With the various video card brands, look closely at the various features offered (like connector type).

Are you going to be video editing in HD? If so, then you'll need RAID 0 and max RAM as well.
 

WantsToUpgrade

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I've never done anything with RAID. I was looking at the 1.5TB Seagate Barracuda drive. I haven't really figured out how I'm going to back things up though. MicroCenter has the 1.5TB Seagate for $110 this week, so that's why I was looking at that.

I see all the various features on the video cards, but I'm not sure how to turn that into a decision yet.

The mobo mentioned ^^^ has a max of 12gb, and I am thinking of going with 6gb.

Speaking of that sale, it ends Friday, so I'll be acting this week.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll have a more definitive list. I know the case suggested ^^^ is not one that MicroCenter sells.
 

Akebono 98

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If you tend to over-research, then I'm sure that you've come across the problems surrounding the Seagate 7200.11 drives... Whatever you do, don't go with that 1.5TB drive!

Judging from your OP, the Caviar Black 1TB would be best for you. The Caviar Blacks are very reliable and fast, and the 1TB has the highest platter density in this family, so it is also the fastest HDD of the Caviar Blacks. Not to mention the fact that it has the highest capacity too.

The simplest backup solution is to archive to recordable DVDs, but it would seem that you might have a lot of media. If so, then perhaps consider running 2 HDDs with the second one as the backup (but still archive important data to DVDs). The gold standard is what businesses use: data stored on a RAID array in a server with off-site backup on tape. You can create any backup solution in-between the points on this spectrum.

Actually, both P6T Deluxe and P6T Deluxe V2 support 24GB (6x4GB modules). The best RAM solution is usually to fill one bank of slots now and leave the other bank open for subsequent expansion. That way you don't waste any RAM.

Looking forward to seeing your list.
 

WantsToUpgrade

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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131346 says "Maximum Memory Supported 12GB". Is there another one I should be looking at?

This could be my misunderstanding, but in a RAID array, don't you need 3+ drives to support not losing any data if 1 drive fails? Seems an expensive route to go.

And yeah, I've seen the review problems with the 1.5TB drive, but I've only heard good things from people I actually know that have them.

I think my most undecided at this point is the case and the video card. I have absolutely no clue on the case, and i'll probably do the hd 4850x2, 4850, or 4830 once I figure out the differences. Then I just have to figure out which company to get whichever model. Decisions, decisions. :)
 

Greg_77

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How about a 4850? It is a good compromise for a system not used for gaming, and it will will stay current for a while. Plus, you can add another later. If I am correct, CS4 can now take advantage of the GPU. This could be a thing to consider.
 

theAnimal

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4850 is complete overkill for no gaming, and what would be the point of adding another?
 

Akebono 98

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I saw the 24GB limit on the Asus website specs here: link.

Minimum RAID configuration for data redundancy is 2 identical drives in RAID 1 (a mirrored array). The 3+ drives that you mention is RAID 5, which has parity.

RAID is really meant to provide uninterrupted operation in a business, when 1 drive fails. However, some people use the mirroring feature as "automatic backup". But it's not really backup in the true sense, as RAID 1 only hedges the risk of 1 drive failing. Archiving to a media form that can be physically separate from your computer is true backup. E.g. your office has a fire, but your data is safe, or a virus destroys your HDDs, but archived DVDs are not affected, so you can restore your data. RAID is expensive and used when the situation is valuable enough.

For your case, consider getting one of the quiet ones since this is more of a work rig--Coolermaster Cosmos 1000, Sileo 500, Antec P182, Silverstone TJ-09.
 

WantsToUpgrade

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The Cosmos 1000 would be great, but $175 is more than I'd like to spend on a case. I'm looking at the Antec Three Hundred ($45), the Sileo 500 Silent ($68), and I'm not sure what else.

I'd like the machine to be quiet, and I don't care about lights.

Basically, anything I get at MicroCenter, I don't have to pay shipping for, and it seems to be cheaper, but they don't have everything in stock. (If you put in the KS store, only items in stock are returned when you search, but it isn't a querystring, so I can't link to it). If there's things I need to get on NewEgg or another website, I'm mainly ok with that.

As for the hard drives, I thought with RAID 0, 2 drives, if 1 drive fails, the other fails also. So in order to not lose data, you need RAID 5 so you have the 3+ drives and parity. If that is true, I'm not sure I see the point of RAID 0. I'm sure I'm misunderstanding something - I'm just starting to look into the RAID options.

Hmm, NewEgg does seem to have better prices on the 4830 and 4850 graphics cards - though I'm still confused about the different companies. If the 4850 is overkill, is the 4830 overkill?
 

xthekidx

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Look at the CoolerMaster 690 case, its a great case, very roomy and great cooling, and aesthetically pleasing too. If you want quiet, you can look at the NZXT Hush case.

The point of Raid 0 is that you have two drives working independantly of each other, so the work is split between the two drives, giving you a major speed boost for read/writes. Raid 5 is similar, but has another drive to backup data kinda like raid 1, and will also give you a speed boost, although not as much as Raid 0. Raid 1 gives no speed boost, but your data is very secure. If you want very fast speeds and security, you can get two drives in raid 0 and a third data drive to backup your files, which is what I would recommend doing. However Raid 0 is not necessarily a disaster waiting to happen. If you pick two very reliable drives, such as the WD caviar blacks, then you have a pretty good chance that your data won't get lost. Raid 0 is mostly useful to people who game though and aren't worried about losing data, and since you don't game, Raid 5 might be a better fit for you.

I would just go with the 4830 or 4650, they will both be plenty for your needs.

 

MykC

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I've been looking at PC parts for the last 30 days or so myself as a friend asked to build him a computer. His needs are similar to yours with the exception he wanted a video card that could run crysis and he would overclock. Since you don't aren't really into gaming and I would guess that your not an over clocker these are the options I would recommend.

AMD Platform
Phenom II 940BE - $230
ASUS M3A78-T 790GX - $140
G.Skill 4x2GB DDR2 800 - $100
Total $470

Intel Platform
Core i7 920 - $275
Asus P6T Deluxe - $300
G.Skill 3x2GB DDR3 1066 - $120
ASUS 3450 - $30
Total - $725
Intel advantage, greater (33% +/- 10%) speed that will benefit durning video editing and encoding.
Intel disadvantage, $255. You'll have to decide if the cost justifies the gains.

Case/PSU choice 1
Antec 300 - $60
PC Power & Cooling Silencer PPCS500 500W - $75
Total - $135

Case/PSU choice 2
Cooler Maseter Cosmos 1000 - $200
COOLER MASTER UCP RS700-AAAAA3 700W - $175
Total - $375
Choice 2 advantage. This is an investment. It something that will save you money on your next system and system after that. In addition the case support

better airflow, easier to work with (more room inside, tool-less design) and acoustic dampining.
Choice 2 disadvantage, $240.

Standard stuff
ASUS VH242H - $240 (recommend getting 2) Built in speakers, 16:9
Seagate 1.5TB - $130 x 2 = $260 (RAID 1)
Windows Home Premium 64 bit OEM - 100
Hauppauge WinTV-HVR 1800 - $100 (don't know much about tuners but this one had good reviews)
Standard Logitech Keyboard and Mouse - $40
Any DVD Burner - $30
Speakers - ?? 2.1/5.1?
Printer - Laser/Inkjet, Color/Black and White, Cost per page, print speed?
Total - $770 + Speakers + Printer

AMD Platform, Case choice 1, Single Monitor
$470 + $135 + $770 = $1375

AMD Platform, Case choice 2, Single Monitor
$470 + $375 + $770 = $1615

AMD Platform, Case choice 1, Dual Monitor
$470 + $135 + $770 = $1615

AMD Platform, Case choice 2, Dual Monitor
$470 + $375 + $770 = $1855

Intel Platform, Case choice 1, Single Monitor
$725 + $135 + $770 = $1630

Intel Platform, Case choice 2, Single Monitor
$725 + $375 + $770 = $1870

Intel Platform, Case choice 1, Dual Monitor
$725 + $135 + $770 = $1870

Intel Platform, Case choice 2, Dual Monitor
$725 + $375 + $770 = $2110

The last thing I would recommend is an after market cooler, the Zalman 8700 $55. It runs really quite (compared to stock) and can offer the cooling (if you don't want to run silent) that an overclocked CPU would need. With that said I'd personally pick the AMD platform with dual monitors (if you have the desk space).
 

Akebono 98

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The Sileo 500 would be quieter than the Antec 300. I, like xthekidx, also have the CM-690 case and love it. However, it is full mesh for cooling and not the quietest case.

Newegg does have free shipping on many items, so you can work with that too to complete your build.

In RAID 0, data is striped across 2 or more drives. That is, the complete data set is not replicated across the multiple drives. So if 1 drive fails, then the RAID 0 array is dead because the overall data set now has holes in it, from which there is no recovery. So the data is gone, but the good drive(s) can still be reused.

RAID 1 mirrors the data set across 2 drives, so both drives contain the same data (mirroring). So if 1 drive fails, then the other drive still contains a mirror image.

RAID 5 adds parity and works best in a business server.

RAID 0 is for speed only, while RAID 1 and 5 are for data redundancy (hedging against the failure of a single drive).

Here are 2 very good references for RAID:

Tom's Hardware Forum RAID FAQ

Wikipedia Entry on RAID

Simple backups to an external hard drive and/or DVDs sound more appropriate for you, however.

Gamers usually like Sapphire for ATI GPUs because they usually provide the best value. I personally like eVGA/nVidia for various reasons.

Since you're not doing anything that requires 3D capability, you'd be fine with a 4650 GPU. Another option to consider would be to get an eVGA 9500GT--it's generally cheaper than the 4650 and also has a 90 day step-up option (just in case you feel the urge to play Crysis ;)).
 

WantsToUpgrade

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Ok, I'm starting this post with a goal of having each component + pros/cons laid out with total prices. We'll see how it goes. For the prices, MC = MicroCenter and NE = NewEgg.

CASES (concerns: size of the case, quiteness, expansion room):
-Antec Three Hundred Mid-Tower (MC $45, NE $60): I like the small dimensions. My existing VAIO is 14x14, so I don't feel like I'll be overwhelmed with this one. Only 3 drive external 5.25" drive bays, so a DVD reader + DVD writer + ummmm a card reader maybe? 6 internal 3.5" bays - I probably wouldn't want to go lower. It doesn't have an external 3.5" drive bay, but I'm not sure what I would use that for anyway. 7 expansion slots which seems to be common. Appears to have 2 USB and 2 audio connections on the Front/Top panel. Reviews indicate that it is quiet (good), but easily cramped (bad).
-Cooler Master RC 690 Mid-Tower (MC $70, NE $80): A couple inches bigger each direction than the Antec 300. What would I do with 5 external 5.25" drive bays? It only has 5 internal 3.5" bays, but 1 external, so I guess we'll call it even with 6 to the Antec 300. Again, 7 expansion slots, which seems to be common. Front/Top panel has 2 USB, 1 FireWire, 2 Audio, and a eSATA port (not that I know what that is). Reviews indicate there may be a noise issue (bad).
-Cooler Master RC 690 Mid-Tower WITH 550W Real Power Pro SLI Ready Power Supply (MC $136): Micro Center sells this case with the power supply included. Will need to see if this saves me any money and also if the power supply is appropriate.
-Cooler Master Cosmos 1000 Full-Tower (MC $176, NE $200): This case is 5+" wider and taller than the Antec 300. So what am I getting in all that extra space? It has 5 external 5.25 drive bays like the CM690 (2 more than the Antec 300), 1 external (like the CM690), 6 internal 3.5 bays (similar to both), and 7 expansion slots as is common. The Front/Top panel is the same as the CM690, but with 2 additional USB. Reviews all seem to agree that this is a great case that is quiet and spatious. A couple reviews mention this needing to be on a solid/hard surface, but mine will be on carpet unless I lay it on its side on the bottom of shelving.
-NZKT Hush Black Mid-Tower (NE $100): About the same size as the Antec 300 (good). Has 4 external 5.25" bays, 5 internal 3.5" bays + 2 external. 2 USB+2 Audio+1 Firewire are on the side, which would be a little awkward for my setup (right now my VAIO lays on its side on the bottom shelf of shelving, but with the new big cases, I'll probably have to sandwich it between my desk and said shelving. Would any of these cases be ok on their side?). Reviews say it is, uh, quiet (good). Front door closing seems iffy. MicroCenter does not sell this case.
-Sileo 500 Mid-Tower (NE $70): MicroCenter doesn't sell this. Size is good, and it is half as heavy as most of the other cases, though weight isn't really an important issue. 5 external 5.25" bays (too many?), 4 internal+1 external 3.5" bays (not enough?), and the usual 7 expansion slots. Front panel has 2 USB, 2 Audio, and an eSATA port. Only 2 reviews, but it seems to be quiet and no mention of it being cramped like the Antec 300.
-Antec P182 Mid-Tower (MC $120, NE $130): Dimensions seem large for a "mid-tower". 4 external 5.25" bays, 6 internal + 1 external 3.5" bays, and the usual 7 expansion slots. Front ports are 2 USB, 2 Audio, 1 Firewire. Reviews say it is large, and some say it is quiet, others say it isn't.

INTEL PROCESSOR
-Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor (MC $230, NE $289): Quad-Core is good. I multi-task a lot. Visual Studio + a few apps from Adobe's CreativeSuite to do photo and/or video work, while listening to music or playing a video. My understanding is that because of this, I should go quad-core. Basically, it's extremely fast, but also pricey, though MC's $60 off is helpful. It seems to be slower than the AMD route, but overclocking is a gigantic ? for me. I don't know what that involves, how reliable it is, what speeds that could get me up to, how easily I could accomplish it, etc.

INTEL MOBO
-ASUS P6T Deluxe LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard (NE $300): I'm trying to see how this compares to the non-deluxe, and it seems to just have more USB connections? This isn't the V2 that I've heard rumored. I don't see a V2 on NewEgg. MicroCenter does not sell the Deluxe model.
-ASUS P6T X58 1366 ATX Motherboard (MC $250, NE $250): It's not the Deluxe, though I'm not totally sure what that means.
Basically it seems I should do the ASUS P6T, but there seems to be 3 different models, only 1 of which MicroCenter sells, and only 2 of which NewEgg sells. Should I not consider the non-deluxe? Should I go track down the Deluxe V2?

INTEL VIDEO CARD (thread suggestions, note, I don't know what SLI and Crossfire are >_>)
Each model has different companies, so I'm just gonna list price ranges. Help choosing a company based on the model would be fabulous.
-HD4650 (MC 3 different ranging $88-$108, NE 21 different ones ranging $50-$100)
-HD4830 (MC $135, NE 8 different ones ranging $95-$135): MicroCenter only sells the Radeon HD 4830 512MB GDDR3 PCIe 2.0 Graphics Card (at $135).
-HD4850 (MC 2 different ones ranging $168-$192, NE 25 different ones ranging $135-$235)
-eVGA 9500GT (MC $88, NE $80): I'm assuming the DDR3 one here...and I don't know what Crysis is haha.

AMD PROCESSOR
Not a clue.
Ummmm, NE has them from $120 to $230, and MC only has the MD® Boxed Phenom II X4 Quad-Core Processor 940 for $230. Really, all I know about AMD is that Socket 3 just came out. I'd have to research these a heck of a lot more, but my inclination is that since I can get the i7 920 for $230 just like I could get the top of the AMD processors, I should stick with the Intel route?

AMD MOBO
Not a clue.
-ASUS M3A78-T AM2+/AM2 AMD 790GX HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard (MC $152, NE $139): Wow, NewEgg finally beat a MicroCenter price. ;) As with the AMD processors, I really don't know where to begin, or what else to look for as an alternative to this.

AMD VIDEO CARD
Not a clue

POWER SUPPLIES (thread suggestions)
-PC Power & Cooling Silencer PPCS500 500W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply (MC $72, NE $75)
-PC Power & Cooling S75CF 750W EPS12V SLI NVIDIA SLI Certified (Dual 8800 GTX and below) CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply (MC $120, NE $110)
-COOLER MASTER UCP RS700-AAAAA3 700W (MC $168, NE $175): Lower wattage, more money. Doesn't seem like a good value? PC P&C a better choice?

HARD DRIVES
I currently have a WD160gb, a WD120gb, and a Maxtor120gb that are between 5 and 7 years old. Besides them having data on them now, I'm thinking these are too old to use and I should use them as small backup drives? I can't decide on the hard drive setup I should go for. 2 small drives + 2 big drives in RAID 0 pairs? 2 small drives + 1 big drive? 1 small drive + 2 big drives? 1 big drive? All I know is I'm not sure spending money on the Velociraptors makes sense for me. Help! :) This may be something I have to do last and see how the budget works out, though I'd love opinions.
-WD Caviar Black WD1001FALS (NE $130) and
-WD Caviar Black WD10000LSRTL (MC $140): Not sure what the difference between these 2 are. They're both the 1TB 7200RPM 32mb SATA300 Caviar Black.
-Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST31500341AS 1.5TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s (NE $130) and
-Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 7,200RPM Serial ATA-300 Hard Drive ST315005N1A1ASR (MC $109): Again, not sure the difference. I know someone who picked up this drive from MicroCenter a few weeks ago and is considering getting another one given the price, but I also know people strongly recommend against the 1.5TB drive.

MEMORY (mostly just thread suggestions)
-mushkin 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model 998679 (NE $200): MicroCenter doesn't sell mushkin ddr3
-G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model (NE 4 different ranging $131-$220): MicroCenter doesn't sell G.Skill
-Corsair Memory XMS3 6GB DDR3-1600 (PC-12800) CL9 DIMM Memory Kit (MC $164, NE $165)
-CORSAIR XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory (MC $150, NE $144)

COOLER (just what has been suggested in the thread)
-COOLER MASTER V8 RR-UV8-XBU1-GP 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler (NE $70): MicroCenter doesn't sell this model, but has others from CM.
-Zalman 8700 (NE $53): MicroCenter doesn't sell this model, but has others from Zalman.

THERMAL COMPOUND (not sure what this is for, but it was suggested)
-ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound (NE $7): MicroCenter has other brands.

DVD WRITER
Does it matter? Are there any real differences? I bought a dvd writer probably 6 years ago when you had to make sure you bought the right kind of dvds to go with the drive, and even then, they didn't always work. I'm assuming this isn't the case anymore? I think for now I'll go with a single dvd reader/writer, and might add just a dvd reader later on for copying.

TV TUNER (just what has been suggested along with a couple random ones, for use with Windows Vista Media Center as a pvr...that's the only option I'm aware of...being able to watch something while recording something else is a bonus, will probably purchase later)
-ASUS My Cinema-PHC3-100/NAQ/FM/AV/RC TV Tuner Card PCI Interface (NE $80): Mentions that you can watch analog and digital simultaneously. With the conversion to digital tv, is there another tv tuner that might be better now? MicroCenter doesn't sell it.
-WinTV-HVR-1800 MC-Kit (MC $104, NE $99): Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but does it say only over-the-air-HD?
-DIAMOND ATI TV Wonder HD 650 TVW650PCI PCI Interface (NE $100)
Ok, it seems like most of these do analog or over-the-air hd. Maybe I'm confused about the whole analog/digital switch and my tv service (Charter or AT&T Uverse), and how I can use my pc too.


KEYBOARD/MOUSE
Not real worried about this, as long as it has media controls and programmable keys. Quiet keys. Mouse needs a scroll wheel. Both being wireless would be great.

MONITOR (just what has been suggested in the thread)
-Acer X203Wbd Black 20" 5ms Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 2500:1 ACM (MC $160, NE $150)
-Samsung T240HD (NE $400): Wow...that's a lot for a monitor. This particular built-in tv tuner can't record.

PRINTER/SCANNER
Uh, needs to print - b/w and color. And scan. If it had a loading area so I can scan multiple pages/photos at once, that'd be totally sweet. Printing cd/dvd labels, mailing labels, notecards would be great.

OPERATING SYSTEM + SOFTWARE
-Windows Vista Ultimate: This will be at educational pricing (The upgrade is $100 @ educational compared to $220 @ retail, but I'm not sure exactly how much the full version is). Should I go with 64-bit or stick with 32-bit?
-Office 2007 Pro: $80 educational pricing

SOUND CARD
-Stupid question, but I do need one, right? It looks like the mobos have sound...so?

...5 hours later...and that's my research. I'm kind of afraid to ask if I forgot anything. I'm hoping this gets a good discussion going. :)
 

MykC

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eSata is external sata. It mainly used to connect external hard drives to your PC. Its much faster than USB 2.0 and Firewire 1394.

The cases your looking at are all good cases, its up to you to make the call.

If you can get $60 off the i7 920 and drop down to the non-deluxe ASUS x58 board then you'll want to go the Intel route.

From what you've stated you'll be using your PC for an videocard will do. I'd go with a 4830 just to have something that isn't complete garbage. As far as brand go, anything Saffire, Asus, MSI, Gigabyte, HSI its all good. Generally you'll just grab the cheapest one.

The PC Power and Cooling is a very good PSU brand, either one will do you good.

Most enthusiasts don't consider the VelociRaptor because it doesn't offer good price/performance. If your going with 3+ drives, just run it all in Raid 5. If you choose to run raid 1/5 its best that they are of the same size. Don't run raid 0, it offers very little speed bonus outside a benchmark/server enviroment.

Stick with 1066 for DDR3, there isn't much value in paying for the faster DDR3 modules as real world tests have shown little improvement for your money.

After market cooling is only really needed if you want to run silent or OC.
http://www.frostytech.com/top5heatsinks.cfm this link will show the best in the field in terms of cooling and silent/cooling. Anyone on that list will meet your requirements.

The thermal compound is placed between the CPU and the Heatsink. The stuff recommend tends to do a better job than what you get packed in with heatsinks normally.

It doesn't matter what DVD writer you get, they are all the same.

To be honest, for a Printer/Scanner I'd go to a Staples or Best buy. Have a look at them, talk to a rep, research it back home and then buy. I personally have always felt more comfortable shopping for this product this way.

You need 64 bit to access more the 4GB of RAM. IF you have 32 bit you can't utilize more than 4GB (so in a 6GB system you've just lost 2GB).

All motherboards come with built in soundcards. The built in sound is also quite good.
 

WantsToUpgrade

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Ok, so if I'm looking to get an external drive for backups, I want an eSata connection?


Hmm, not all include the eSata, but those don't seem to match up number-wise with the drive bays that seem good to me.


I'm working on figuring out the difference between the Non-Deluxe, Deluxe, and Deluxe V2. Is the Non-Deluxe good for a non-gamer that still wants performance?


Ok, thanks.


I just wasn't sure if I needed to get the 750W. Otherwise, I'll definitely save $50 and get the 500W.


I think I'm leaning towards either the 1.5TB Barracuda or the 1TB Caviar Black. Also, getting a smaller (500gb maybe?) drive in the $50-$60 range for OS/Apps. I read somewhere to set this drive to read-only after getting set-up and having everything else go to the 2nd drive, but this doesn't make any sense to me on how that would work. I think I'll then do an external drive for backups. Actually, with my old drives in my 7yr old VAIO, maybe I should just get an enclosure. You can get backup software other than what comes bundled with the external drives right? Any problem with getting just an enclosure over an actual external drive?


Is this the 1066 (PC8500) or the 1333 (PC10666)/1333 (PC10600) ?


Alright, looks like $50-$60 should be fine here.



Got it.


Got it.


Yeah, and this isn't something I need day 1 in order to get the computer running.

 

MykC

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For an external solution eSata is preferable, but I don't think you can really buy them without eSata now.

As for the Deluxe vs Non there is some info in this thread.
http://www.maximumpc.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=89531&sid=d673c1b28d56c26ce7be8a0611fbb08c
It has two LAN connections.
It has two raid controllers.
It overclocks a bit better.
It has better onboard sound.

The way some people setup their drives is that they make a small partition say 50GB for your OS. Everything else is installed to other partition and have all their USER files directed to the other partition. The main reason to do this is that it makes formating and reinstalling your OS partition easier than it would normally be. A smaller drive is all you need for your OS/APPs hard drive.

1066 = 8500
 

WantsToUpgrade

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So...

Everything from MicroCenter would be purchased by Friday.

*This case looks good, though I'm nervous about how quiet it is*
$136 (MC) - Cooler Master RC 690 Mid-Tower WITH 550W Real Power Pro SLI Ready Power Supply
OR ($6 difference)
$70 - Cooler Master RC 690 Mid-Tower
$72 - PC Power & Cooling Silencer PPCS500 500W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply

$230 (MC) - Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor

$250 (MC) - ASUS P6T X58 1366 ATX Motherboard (NON-DELUXE)

$95 (MC) - Diamond Multimedia Viper Radeon HD 4650 1024MB GDDR2 PCIe Graphics Card
OR ($1 difference)
$96 (MC) - Visiontek Radeon HD 4650 512MB GDDR2 PCIe Graphics Card
* Both of these say DDR2 - is that a problem?

$140 (MC) - WD Caviar Black WD10000LSRTL: NewEgg doesn't sell this model but is selling the FALS model. WD's site doesn't lists the LSRTL but not the FALS.
OR
$110 (MC) - Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 7,200RPM Serial ATA-300 Hard Drive ST315005N1A1ASR: Again, NewEgg doesn't sell this, but MicroCenter does. Seagate's site doesn't list this model.
Is there something wrong with the MicroCenter models? Should I avoid them? Right now, it looks like this could be the only obstacle in getting everything from MicroCenter.

$150 (MC) - CORSAIR XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory: MicroCenter doesn't sell any DDR3 1066 RAM.

$50 (MC) - Mugen 2 Universal CPU Cooler: Not listed at http://www.frostytech.com/top5heatsinks.cfm though.

$10 (MC) - Arctic Silver Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Silver Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound - 3.5 gram tube

$25 (NE) - For a DVD Burner, NewEgg definitely has the best prices over MicroCenter. Will I be able to plug in my old dvd drive (I'm assuming it is ide not sata) just to get the build going, and then it'd be easy to switch that once my NewEgg order arrives?

$50 (NE) - Looks like NewEgg wins again with the keyboard/mouse. $50 should be plenty after I get the build set up. I can use my existing one for a tad longer.

$200 (NE) - Monitor. Luckily, another piece that I can deal with later and just use my existing "tiny" 7 yr old monitor (hey, at least it isn't CRT!!)

$100 (NE) - TV Tuner.

$250 (Edu) - Vista Ultimate 64-bit + Office 2007 Pro. Approximate pricing.

$100 (?) - Printer/Scanner/Copier

GRAND TOTAL: ~$1,750.

How does all of this fit together? The HardDrive model number confusion is getting to me. Looking forward to feedback :) Thanks!