I was trying to install a BFG GeForce 8800GT OC2 in my ECS K8M890M-M rev 1.0a motherboard with an Athlon X2 5600+ processor and 2GB DDR800 RAM.
I could not get the video card to put out any kind display at all and the motherboard automatically switched to the onboard video. From what the person I bought it from says is because it actually does need 28A on the 12V rail which my 450W power supply does not have (18A on a single rail).
In the process of doing this I touched but not pushed the power button and before I could actually push it there was a static shock and the system turned partway on. I shut down the system, made sure to discharge myself and pushed the power button again. No go.
I have since pulled the video card and reset the BIOS. When I press the power button the fans spin but no video. If a hard drive is connected to the power only it will spin up but if it is connected to the IDE it will not. If I remove the memory and start it up it does not give any no memory beeps.
Is it the processor or the motheroard that is fried? Both? Any ideas?
I must say that you have created a slightly complex problem here, considering the multitude of parts involved in this situation. The best and indisputable way of finding out what is broken here is to do a full system rebuild with your motherboard placed on a piece of cardboard.
The instruction for this process are as follows:
1. De-construct your whole computer system
2. Place motherboard on a piece of cardboard
3. Add one hardware component at a time and turn the system on
(TO TURN ON THE SYSTEM YOU WILL HAVE TO CONNECT THE MOTHERBOARD LIKE YOU WOULD USUALLY AND THEN SHORT THE TWO PINS THAT YOUR POWER SWITCH CABLE WOULD USUALLY PLUG INTO WITH A SCREWDRIVER OR SOMETHING)
4. Repeat this step until your system fails to turn on
5. The last part you installed into your system will be the faulty one.
In case your system does not start at all with only the bear minimum of hardware components installed, you may want to reset the CMOS. Instructions on how to perform this can be found in your motherboard manual.
Follow these steps first and then we will go from there. The above information is just advice and is not a MUST.
Oh, I've done all that. Pulled motherboard and checked for any bad caps or burned areas. Pulled everything except processor (has onboard video so can't pull that) and it did not even give me 'no memory' beeps. Tried an old PCI video card. Have cleared CMOS both with jumper and by pulling battery. Tried the power button thing that is usually done with laptops (from what I remember) holding down power button while no power of any kind is connected. I figure if there's no complaint when I have no memory in there something has got to be fried. Unfortunately, I would be unable to see any very small indications of a burnt or shorted trace.
Yesterday I tried some more risky stuff. I let it run as it was (fans spinning only) for a few minutes and then pulled off the heatsink. The processor was cold. Then I checked to see if any juice was coming from the 'P4' processor power connection. Both were showing about 11V with only the multi-tester connected--no load.
I'm at a loss here and don't have access to another similar system to swap parts with.
you should replace the psu first with something decent, the psu mightve blown some of its components. hardware are tolerant these days, the cpu or mobo might be fine. you'll need a new one anyway
I've tried two other power supplies with the same result. I also looked inside the one it was connected to when the weirdness happened and didn't see any obvious damage.
I plan to get a decent power supply because the card does seem to need better. I run with minimal stuff these days--onboard sound, one hard drive and one optical drive. Do you have any suggestions? Best bang for the buck please.
well i dont live in the usa but there seems to be great deals on newegg for corsair psus (620w i believe) but any psu with a decent reputation will do eg. ocz, enermax, pc&p and the corsair i mentioned. btw 11v with no load is very bad, it should stay close to 12v even under load to within a few mV.
It wasn't until I saw the email that I saw that either I posted in that forum or you are replying from it. Premature senility.
Unfortunately I don't have any access to anything to test parts with. I first asked someone if I could test the video card in their system because (although he claims it's only a 300W) I'm sure his power supply has more juice. He's running the 9800 GX2 which I would think would need more power. He was afraid it might damage his computer. Said video cards are dangerous.
I asked someone else about just testing my memory and he said "Just because it works in my system doesn't mean it will work in yours." which is true, but since I had already told him that it was from my system that was working fine until I tried to install the new card I gave up on the discussion.
I asked someone I sold an old projector to and he turned me on to a local recycling place. I'm going to try them in the next few days, but I doubt they have anything recent enough to handle it.
I still don't get how the static electricity can discharge through plastic and into the works inside.
Maybe the video card tried to draw too much juice from the slot or trying to get enough sizzled something else.?
Well I finally found someone willing to let me test with their system (for $20) and it turns out that the motherboard is sizzled. Don't know exactly what is wrong, but we tested the processor, memory and video card in his system and they all worked fine. Even tried my motherboard and processor with his power supply and it didn't come up at all. So it looks like I'm going to get a new motherboard. Seriously considering getting a much better one since I have to spend the money anyway. Hard to make a decision though--can only future proof so much and AM3 will likely be standard soon.
Strangely enough his power supply is no more powerful than mine but the card worked fine in his system.
Here is where knowing the brands and models of the PSU's is necessary. Some brands are simply much better than others. And, regretably, some brands are one step above junk.
I'm going through them now trying to find a good one I can afford. I tried to read the FAQ here but it is filled with random combinations of characters mixed with the words so I finally gave up. I used the calculator from the link and even with adding a couple extra things it's still saying I only need less than 400 watts. That doesn't really make sense to me so I'm just trying to find one with decent reviews with enough amps on the 12V rail(s)
I don't remember this being such a hassle before and I've been tinkering with computers for a few years. Used to just grab one and go. I know they need more power, but sheesh.
I certainly don't remember so many of them being shipped that just plain did not work, died or sparked and destroyed systems before. They need some much better QA!